Walking The Rim of VULCANO 🌋 It’s Not Active But It’s EGGY! 🍳 (Hydrogen Sulphude)

Walking The Rim of VULCANO 🌋 It’s Not Active But It’s EGGY! 🍳 (Hydrogen Sulphude)

Day 206. 11km (81594kms 7yrs)

Having smashed my way down the narrow path with a loaded Gibbo the previous night in order to get out of sight quickly, I made the return trip back up in three stages; two pairs of panniers at a time followed by Gibbo. Still tough, but still worth it for a camp with marvellous views.

Descending into Lipari town I rode the brakes most of the way down the incline too steep to cycle up. Passing a bicycle rental place I noted that all the bikes were electric. Back on Lipari’s main strip I found the wifi from the over-priced cafe I’d eaten at yesterday stretched into the shade of a small church over the road, so I took care of internet tasks here before continuing to the port for the ferry to Vulcano.

A short 25 minute ride later I disembarked onto another island dominated by a volcano, this one far less active. Unlike Stomboli which regularly emits lava and projectiles, the caldera here emits a steady stream of gases giving the place an eggy smell. Eager to take the hike to the crater I made straight for the trail head only to find a sign forbidding climbing before 16:30 so I obediently went away returning an hour later locking Gibbo the sign and beginning the hike.

I initially a zigzagging scramble up loose gravel the gradient relaxed at the crater rim as the path followed a circuit around the smoking (is ‘steaming’ more accurate?) caldera. It was spectacular and everything I was hoping for. I’d been faintly concerned everything would disappoint after marvelling at Stromboli, but that didn’t cross my mind at all; this yellow, gaseous crater backed by Lipari island was fantastic in its own way.

I would’ve gladly spent much longer up there but the two hour circuit meant I was already pressed for time in finding a camp. Heading over the isthmus to Vulcanello – which erupted into being from the sea in 183BCE – initial trails lead far too steeply up to the islet’s two calderas. Instead on a sandy trail towards Valle Dei Mostri which I shall visit tomorrow, I found a large sandy patch. It offered no protection from the sun come morning and was scarcely hidden, but I reasoned on an island whose population is 450 plus holidaymakers crime is going to be about as low as it gets.

Tipping the last of the budget wine into my cup I was reminded that tomorrow I must return to the mainland, my time on the Aeolian islands far too short.

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