Beauty, Betrayal, and the Green Heart of an Empire

Beauty, Betrayal, and the Green Heart of an Empire

Welcome to the Dan Expedition! Thank you for joining me as The Expedition continues exploring Kyoto and all it has to offer. In this episode, we focus on Kyoto’s natural beauty -the green lungs of the city- and step into peaceful spaces that offer a break from the hustle and bustle. We’ll also take a look at Japan’s Imperial Legacy and how it shaped Kyoto’s identity leading us to the very heart of this ancient capital’s history and the traditional seat of power of the Japanese Empire. And that’s not all! We’ll also journey through the very streets that defined the city’s layout, tracing their history and how they turned into the vibrant hubs we see today. And with that, let’s begin our journey at Kyoto Gyoen National Garden -a tranquil green oasis nestled in the heart of the city. But it’s far more than just a park. It’s a sprawling landscape ideal for a quiet stroll or a relaxing picnic, and it’s also home to the Kyoto Imperial Palace. The historic centre of Japanese culture and tradition for centuries. Let’s start at the Kaninomiya Residence. The residence is one of several aristocratic homes and historical buildings scattered throughout the Kyoto Gyoen National Garden. It currently serves as the park’s information center, providing exhibits and explanations about the nature and history of Kyoto Gyoen. The Kaninomiya was the youngest of the four shinnōke branches of the Imperial Family. Seshū Shinnōke was the collective name for the four cadet branches of the Imperial family of Japan, (laughing) Oh! And by the way instead of filming normally here I tried a really advanced filming method. that does incredibly slow motion videos Almost like it’s not moving at all. and I, I just wanted to mention this to you just in case you thought it might be like a production mistake or something like that. ha ha uh which until 1947 were entitled to provide a successor to the Chrysanthemum Throne. See the Imperial Family of Japan is considered to be a single dynasty in unbroken succession; however, the line has often not been directly from father to son. The Seshū Shinnōke system was a mutual safeguard, and cadet branches ensured the Imperial bloodline would continue. If there was no successor in the Imperial family, the new emperor could be chosen and adopted from a cadet branch. And if a cadet branch had no successors they could bring in an Imperial prince into the family to continue their branch. Kyoto Gyoen surrounds the Kyoto Imperial Palace and was formally a part of the Imperial grounds where it was once filled with some 200 residences of Imperial family members, court nobles and officials. There are several shrines in Kyoto Gyoen that can be explored. Their serene atmosphere provides a charming reminder of the city’s spiritual heritage in the midst of the historical and cultural landmarks surrounding it. After the country’s capital was transferred to Tokyo, Emperor Meiji initiated the Kyoto Garden Preservation Project in 1877 to transform the surrounding area into a public park. The buildings were removed and Kyoto Gyoen was established to preserve the Imperial Palace. It wasn’t until after World War II that Kyoto Gyoen was changed to be a national garden. Now it’s a vast public park spanning about 65 hectares and a place where people of Kyoto can come to spend time with nature. And despite its size it still retains a sense of the imperial grandeur of the past. The park has cherry blossoms in spring, vibrant foliage in autumn, and plum blossoms in late winter. It’s also home to several massive ancient camphor and cherry trees. To the north of the park is the Katsura Imperial Villa, the former home of the Katsuranomiya. The second oldest of the shinnōke Imperial branch family. It’s said to be one of the finest examples of Japanese architecture and garden design. The villa and garden in their present form were completed in 1645 as the residence for the Katsura family, as Imperial branch family members. If you would like to visit it you would need to do so through booking a tour in advance. The tour lasts for an hour and is 1,000 yen. Kyoto Gyoen National Garden is free and it’s open all year round. Kyoto became the home of the Emperor when Emperor Kanmu established Kyoto as the capital of Japan in 794. This marked the start of the Heian period, during which Kyoto served as the cultural and political heart of Japan for over 1,000 years. It was a center for courtly arts, including waka poetry. Emperors and courtiers often held poetry contests, reflecting the refined culture of the Heian court. Until 1869, after which the Imperial Court relocated to Tokyo. The Imperial Palace in Kyoto was largely abandoned. While the palace itself was not fully open to the public, most of the grounds are available and offer a glimpse into the opulent world of the Imperial family of Japan. With the Great Fire of 1854, many of the original structures of the Kyoto Imperial Palace were destroyed but reconstructed shortly after in 1855. The Palace itself showcases traditional Japanese architecture, including grand gates elegant halls and serene gardens. It represents the peak of Japanese imperial culture, reflecting the refinement and simplicity of traditional court life. This is the Okuruma-yose, a carriage porch entry restricted exclusively to high-ranking officials and even more restricted to those who were actually allowed to enter the grounds in some form of conveyance. It said that at the end of the Edo period, a Shōgun visited Kyoto in 1863 the first time in about 230 years. Shōgun Tokugawa Iemochi had to disembark from his palanquin outside Gishumon Gate and walk on foot. These are the waiting rooms or the Shodaibunoma for visitors to the palace. It has three rooms depending on rank, the Sakuranoma (room of cherry blossoms), the Tsurunoma (room of cranes) and the Toranoma (room of Tigers). The Shin Mikuruma Yosei or New Carriage Porch was built anew for the enthronement ceremony of Emperor Taisho in 1915 to welcome the carriage procession carrying the Emperor. The name Shinmikurumayose is a collective name used to refer to the entire structure, including the interior. It has the hallway to four rooms, with frosted glass, Western-style lighting and carpeted floors to accommodate people with shoes entering the palace. It was used as a place of congregation for foreign emissaries attending the enthronement ceremonies of Emperor Taisho and Emperor Showa. Today it’s still used as a venue for the Emperor and Empress to hold tea parties when in Kyoto. With its large open Dantei or south courtyard covered in white gravel and the beautiful white and red coloured exterior corridor wall the Shishinden or Ceremonial Hall is a highlight. It’s used for important state ceremonies it’s said to be the most important building on the Palace grounds inside are the thrones called
“Takamikura” the Imperial Throne and “Michodai” The August Seat of the Empress. Both were built in the traditional octagonal style and used for the enthronement ceremony of Emperor Taisho in 1955. And further enthronements in 1928, 1990 and 2019. Okay a quick note. Until the enthronement ceremony for Emperor Taishō, emperors ascended the Chrysanthemum Throne in a private ceremony at the Imperial Palace. The ceremony of Emperor Taishō set a precedent as it was the first to be publicly celebrated, with over 2,000 guests, including political leaders, ambassadors and representatives from multiple countries such as the United States, Britain, France and Russia. The prominent building ahead is the Shunkoden. It’s built specifically to house the Sacred Mirror or its sacred replica. The Sacred Mirror is one of the three imperial regalia of Japan. And underscores the belief that the Emperor is a descendant of Amaterasu, the Shinto Sun Goddess. This empty open space is the East Garden area of and leading to the Seiryōden. Originally, the Seiryōden served as the Emperor’s private living quarters as well as a place for conducting important affairs from the late 12th century. Unlike the Shishinden which, was used for formal ceremonies the Seiryōden was a more personal and functional space used for informal court meetings and the Emperor’s day to day administrative duties. Like many of the oldest and most important buildings in Japan, it’s been destroyed by fire and rebuilt many times. A total of eight times to be specific. The version currently standing was completed in 1855. The building to the left is the Kogosho. It’s a hall for Imperial Audiences with three rooms, the upper middle and lower. The Emperor would sit in the upper room and meet vassals and envoys in the other two rooms. This is the Kemarinoniwa. It’s said to be the playground for an ancient football game of the Imperial Court. And the building after it is the Ogakumonjo. It’s said to be a building for study, reading rights and monthly poetry recital. It has six rooms that can be used as a large hall when all of the sliding doors are removed. The beautiful garden opposite is the Oike-niwa or Pond Garden. The pebble beach shore is called the Suhama and the wooden arch bridge is the Kiaki Zelkova Bridge. While I didn’t get to see it at night, the garden is filled with many styled stone lanterns that would make the garden quite a sight to see. This is the earthen bridge that leads to Gonaitei Garden, it said that many of the stones and lanterns in the garden were donated by court nobles, samurai lords, temples, shrines and imperial fiefdoms from all over Japan. The Kintai Teahouse is also down there but unfortunately it and the rest of the palace area was unavailable at this time. This large building opposite the Gonaitei Garden is the Otsunegoten. It is the largest structure of the palace with 15 rooms. It was built and used as the Emperor’s residence from 1590 until 1869, when the capital moved to Tokyo. The palace is sometimes used for ceremonies, such as the enthronement related rituals for the Emperor. Not much to see with it closed but the Omima building here was used for unofficial ceremonies such as the Star Festival and the Bon Festival. Despite the move to Tokyo the Imperial and Royal Family occasionally visit the Kyoto Imperial Palace for official events underscoring its ongoing cultural importance. Now let’s go back to Kyoto Gyoen and finish with the beautiful Kajo Pond. The palace and its gardens remain a living symbol of Kyoto’s legacy as the cradle of Japanese tradition, hosting annual cultural events like tea ceremonies, flower arrangements, and other arts that harken back to imperial times. I won’t cover it in this segment but Kyoto Imperial Palace isn’t the only imperial palace in Kyoto Gyoen. There’s also the Sento Imperial Palace which was built for Emperor Go-Mizunoo’s retirement and became the palace for subsequent retired Emperors. The term “Sento” means a pure land inhabited by hermits who have left the secular world. And the corresponding Ōmiya Palace which was built for the Empress Dowager Nyoin. Both palaces were built in 1630 and were repeatedly burnt down and reconstructed until the Great Fire of 1854. After which, the only sento structures remaining were the Seika-tei and Yushin-tei teahouses and the Otsunegoten or Residential Palace of the Omiya Palace. The Sento Palace was never rebuilt but the Ōmiya Palace was reconstructed in 1867 and is still used today by the Emperor when visiting Kyoto. The gardens are the main attractions, originally designed in 1630 by Enshū Kobori, an artist and master of tea ceremony and garden design. To visit you need to join a free organized tour that goes through the North and South Pond garden areas. Tours last for about one hour and are in Japanese only, however audio guides are available in several other languages. This picturesque area is the Kujō Pond. It’s a beautiful and peaceful area in Kyoto Gyoen, where you can see turtles and koi fish surrounded by lush greenery and seasonal flowers. The elegant two-story building is the Shūsui-tei, a traditional Japanese teahouse. Its name translates roughly to “Autumn Water Pavilion”. It was originally built about 200 years ago during the late Edo period and is the only remaining structure of the residence of the Kujō family one of the “five Regent Houses”. From the second floor you can overlook Kujō Pond and Takakura Bridge. It’s a cherished spot in Kyoto Gyoen for its serene beauty and traditional Japanese aesthetics. The area reflects the elegance of Japanese garden design, emphasizing harmony between natural and human-made elements. The pond is an ideal spot to relax, enjoy the sounds of nature and admire the changing seasons. Especially during cherry blossom season or when the autumn leaves are in full display. A must visit for anyone interested in Japanese gardens, tea ceremonies, or simply seeking a peaceful retreat while in the heart of Kyoto city. The history, tradition and ceremonies of the Imperial Palace and Kyoto Gyoen National Garden make them much more than just cultural landmarks. They are active, vibrant connections to Japan’s imperial past! After exploring the subtle beauty of Kyoto’s Imperial heart, we now shift our focus to another of Kyoto’s green spaces. from the structured elegance of the Palace Gardens, our journey continues to a place where nature’s vast diversity takes centre stage. The Kyoto Botanical Gardens it’s a sprawling greenscape in Kyoto. Established in 1924 and covering approximately 24 hectares (59 acres). It’s the oldest public botanical garden in Japan and serves as a peaceful retreat filled with diverse plant collections and seasonal displays. And I was there to check it out for its 100th anniversary. Let’s have a look! The gardens are located in the Sakyo Ward, near the Kamo River and just north of the city centre. And we’re here to check it out for its 100th anniversary! It boasts an impressive collection of around
12,000 plant species including native Japanese flora and exotic species from all around the world, making it one of the most comprehensive botanical gardens in all of Japan. The wide range of themed areas and landscapes such as: the Bamboo Garden; the Bonsai Exhibit; the Camellia Garden; Cherry Trees; European Style Gardens; Flower Beds; Hydrangea Gardens and maybe not surprisingly a Native Japanese Plant Garden. Spring is a great time to visit for cherry blossoms. The gardens have hundreds of sakura trees, including rare varieties. In Summer the greenery in general is lush, with colourful flowers like irises and hydrangeas. In Autumn the gardens transform into a tapestry of red, orange and yellow hues as the leaves change colour. and Winter has camellias and other hardy plants that flourish, with the conservatory offering a warm escape. Whatever the season, the beauty of nature is assured to be viewed here. The conservatory is a highlight with approximately 4,500 species, showcasing tropical and subtropical plants from around the world, including orchids, cacti, and carnivorous plants. I’m walking into a place like this uh you just you don’t know where to look everywhere there’s something um it’s incredible. I spent several hours here and found myself rushing at the end as I still hadn’t seen at least one third of the park. Maps of the botanical garden are provided in English, Chinese and Japanese- and you can pick them up at the entrance. The area is reasonably well-signposted so finding your way is quite easy. If you’re hungry but don’t want to leave the grounds, there’s a cafe near the central lawn not far away from the rose garden. Like many cafes and restaurants in Japan you buy what you want from the ticket vending machine and take your meals to your table on a tray when they’re ready. For nature and garden lovers I give this park my recommendation. It’s one of the more overlooked places to visit in Kyoto and with its spacious size, lack of crowds and cheap entry fees. It could be a very good way to relax and enjoy nature Hell, even if you don’t like nature and gardens you might wanna come here just to get away from the crowds. I went in Summer and at first I was a little bit disappointed. Compared to the other smaller, more sophisticated and artfully designed Zen gardens it left much to be desired. It wasn’t until I spent the day here getting completely absorbed in the amazing Conservatory and losing myself in the sheer size and scope of the gardens did I realise, that at some point while I was there, I completely de-stressed. There’s something about the wide open spaces full of nature that does it. For those who don’t appreciate masses of people or getting a little bit weary at the crowds I recommend coming here. The park and the conservatory are currently 200 yen each, and that is the cheapest detox therapy ever. It was more than a feeling from the floor to the ceiling. And after our walk among the flowers and foliage it’s time to shift gears our journey through Kyoto. Now turns towards a different kind of vibrancy. From peaceful paths and quiet green spaces, we dive into the buzzing energy of Kyoto’s bustling shopping street arcades. Let’s take a look at the pulse of the city’s commercial heart -where Kyoto’s past and present collide in a blur of colour, sound street life and above all shopping! Time to explore Teramachi and Shinkyōgoku Street. Teramachi Street and Shinkyōgoku Street a shopping street arcades in central Kyoto. With both streets running parallel and being right next to each other, together they’ve become a popular shopping and entertainment hub for locals and foreigners alike. Kyoto Shinkyōgoku Shopping Street is known for its youthful and contemporary atmosphere. Not to mention it’s cafés cat cafés, dog cafés, there’s even a cute pig cafés, and an owl cafés too. The street is lively throughout the year and often hosts events during Kyoto’s famous festivals. (chanting) (chanting) It was built in 1872 as an entertainment district. When, the capital Japan was relocated to Tokyo in 1868 Kyoto underwent a period of decline. And Shinkyōgoku Street was built as a part of a plan to boost the morale of residents. With its construction many entertainment businesses, bars and restaurants were established and flourished into what we see today. Teramachi Street, or Teramachidōri, is the older, more historic street having a somewhat more refined atmosphere compared to Shinkyōgoku. it dates back to the heian period of 794 to 1185 it served as a major thoroughfare connecting the city to the Imperial Palace. Today there’s still plenty of places where you can admire traditional Japanese architecture alongside modern establishments. In this way the street offers an amazing blend of historical charm and stylish retail culture. When Kyoto was known as Heian-kyō, the Japanese capital from 794 to 1868, Teramachi Street was actually known as Higashi Kyōgoku Ōji, a 32 meter wide main street that for some time was the eastern most street of the capital. The street was so wide that it’s said that it also covered Shinkyōgoku Street as well. During the Ōnin War of 1467 to 1477 the street however along with most of Kyoto was destroyed and it wasn’t until 1590 that the street was reconstructed. Toyotomi Hideyoshi, at the time a powerful daimyō or feudal lord, sought to reimagine Kyoto as a more organized and resilient city. He remodeled it and relocated the great many Buddhist temples and shrines that were scattered throughout the city here, giving the street its name, Temple Town or in Japanese Teramachi. It said his intent in centralising the religious institutions was to protect the city’s sacred structures from potential floods and fires, which at the time were quite common. But it’s also said that this was a strategic move by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. That by lining up the temples, he actually wanted to protect the city from potential attacks coming from the east. As any invaders coming from this way would have to face and move through these sacred sites first. With the concentration of temples came an influx of merchants and artisans catering to temple visitors. Over time, the street evolved into a bustling commercial district. Around the end of the 17th century, there were shops selling memorial tablets, brushes, books, stone pagodas, rosaries, Buddhist sculptures and other items in collaboration with the temples. In fact many of the stores in Teramachi today are stores that existed and even flourished during this time and have been passed down through the generations. And today Teramachi Street continues to be a shopping hub, with both traditional and modern elements. It’s about 4.6 kilometers or 2.8 miles long, with its main district being between Oike Street and Shijō Street. Visitors coming here can explore a variety of shops from Kyoto’s traditional crafts and antiques, to trendy clothing boutiques, books and souvenirs. It’s also dotted with cafés, tea houses and restaurants that offer everything from traditional Kyoto cuisine to worldwide desserts. Despite its commercial growth Teramachi Street retains an element of the atmosphere that reflects its origins as a spiritual centre. Together Shinkyōgoku and Teramachi Street offer a perfect combination of Kyoto’s modern energy and traditional charm making them a delightful mix of shopping and culture. And that brings us to the end of today’s expedition through Kyoto’s green spaces and its lively streets. From the stillness of temples and gardens to the buzz of shopping arcades and markets, this city continues to reveal its layers- and I can’t help but feel we’ve only just begun to scratch the surface. This is Dan from The Dan Expedition. Thank you for joining me and I’ll see you next time. As we end our journey for today it’s time to uncover a tale from Kyoto’s past. One steeped in betrayal, fire and legacy. An infamous act in time, that shifted the fate and future of all of Japan. In 1582, a pivotal event occurred- one that historians still debate and storytellers never tire of retelling. An event known as the Honnō-ji Incident. At the center of this momentous drama was Oda Nobunaga, a dominant, military and political figure of the 16th century. Who by this time, had risen to power by defeating many rival clans and was widely believed to be on the verge of unifying the whole of Japan, under his leadership. But on June 21st, one of his trusted generals, a man known as a Akechi Mitsuhide, -for reasons still debated by scholars to this day- turned against him. In a startling act of betrayal Mitsuhide launched a surprise attack on the temple where Nobunaga was staying with only a small retinue of soldiers. The temple known as Honnō-ji. Realising he was surrounded, and escape was impossible Nobunaga chose death on his own terms. He committed seppuku, ritual suicide. The temple was set ablaze during the attack, and his body was never recovered. A fact that has only deepened the mystery surrounding his final moments. Nobunaga’s death brought his reign to a sudden abrupt end and brought the unification of Japan to a grinding halt. From the ashes of that dark night, Mitsuhide declared himself ruler. But not everyone accepted this sudden and inconceivable turn of events. Another of Nobunaga’s Generals moved swiftly to right these wrongs, and reset the very course of history. A man said to possess uncommon intelligence charisma and political savvy. A man known as Toyotomi Hideyoshi. Who just 13 days later at the battle of Yamazaki, defeated Akechi Mitsuhide. As we touched on earlier, Hideyoshi was a former peasant who rose through the ranks through merits, loyalty and pure tactical genius. His rise to power was nothing short of extraordinary In a society as rigidly structured as feudal Japan, it was almost unthinkable for someone of peasant birth to ascend to any position of any real influence. The samurai class held near-exclusive control over political and military leadership. Status was typically inherited, not earned. For someone of the peasant caste, there was virtually no path or possibility forward. Let alone to rise to a position to command armies! Let alone to rule the nation! And yet, Hideyoshi defied that system and did just that. Born without a surname and likely the son of a humble foot soldier, he began life at the very bottom of the social hierarchy. His first roles were menial. He is said to have started as a sandal bearer, literally someone whose role was to carry someone else’s shoes. Yet in this fairy tale like story in history, Hideyoshi shattered his society’s rigid walls like a boulder cast by a magnificent trebuchet. Through loyalty, tireless work, and strategic brilliance -paired with sharp political instincts and natural charisma- he proved himself indispensable. His talent for logistics, diplomacy, and battlefield command earned him Nogunaga’s trust, and eventually a key position among his top generals. And it was Hideyoshi who would go on to finish what Nobunaga had started ultimately unifying Japan, and earning him the title of the Second Great Unifier. The first, of course, being Nobunaga. In 1591, Hideyoshi ordered the rebuilding of Honnō-ji -not on its original site scarred by fire and betrayal- but a short distance away on, Teramachi Street. And there you can find Oda Nobunaga’s mausoleum. Though it’s worth noting: several tombs across Japan actually claim to be his. Historically his body was never actually found, and multiple locations still dispute where he truly lies. A fitting end, perhaps. for a figure as powerful and as enigmatic as Oda Nobunaga.

Ep 3 – 🎥 Beauty, Betrayal, and the Heart of an Empire
Where empires once bloomed, step into Kyoto’s green heart and imperial legacy.

In this episode of The Dan Expedition, we explore three layers of Kyoto: the quiet elegance of imperial grounds once walked by emperors, the cultivated serenity of a traditional Japanese garden, and the bustling charm of historic shopping streets that have shaped daily life for generations.

From palace paths and seasonal beauty to vibrant alleyways lined with Kyoto culture, this journey offers a deeper look into the city’s natural spaces, historical landmarks, and cultural rhythm. It’s not just about where we go—but what these places reveal about Japan’s past and present.

Whether you’re drawn to Japanese gardens, imperial history, walking tours, or Kyoto’s timeless atmosphere—this episode brings it all together in one captivating journey.

Join the Expedition. Discover what lives beneath the surface.

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00:00 Start
01:27 Kyoto Gyoen National garden
03:56 Kyoto Gyoen Shrines
07:25 Kyoto Imperial Palace
11:05 Shishinden
11:54 Seiryōden
11:57 SEGUE – Enthronement
13:39 Oike-niwa or Pond Garden
16:30 Kyoto Gyoen National Garden – Continued
18:15 Kujo Garden
18:46 Shusui-tei or Autumn Water Pavilion – Traditional Japanese Teahouse
23:04 Intermission
23:49 Kyoto Botanical Gardens
28:26 Conservatory
34:35 Night Garden
36:50 Kyoto Botanical Gardens – Continued
42:58 Intermission
43:44 Teramachi Street & Shinkyogoku Dori
44:40 Cafe’s
45:08 Events – Gion Matsuri Ceremony
50:23 Expedition Debrief
42:37 END / EXTRA

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