Rick Steves’ Europe | S6E12 | Basque Country

Rick Steves’ Europe | S6E12 | Basque Country

(gentle music) – Hi, I’m Rick Steves, back with more of “The Best of Europe.” This time we’re in for a stunning
array of cultural treats, and it’s more than just great food. This is the land of the Basque people. (upbeat music) (upbeat music continues) The land of the Basque people is one of Europe’s
nations without a state, its territory split
between France and Spain. With a stubborn spirit
and an industrious nature, the Basques celebrate their rich heritage while embracing the future. We’ll enjoy the classic Basque experiences in the classic Basque places. Sunny beaches, spectacular
modern architecture, tasty tapas, charming villages, venerable men’s clubs, a dramatic coastline and
a lightning fast sport. When they drew the
national borders of Europe, the Basque nation was left out. While you won’t see this
country on standard Europe maps, Basque people define their land like this, bounded by the Pyrenees
Mountains and the Atlantic Coast. We start in San Sebastian, tour Guernica and Bilbao, and finish in the French
part of Basque country, visiting Bayonne and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. The independent minded Basques are notorious for being headstrong, but as a culturally and
linguistically unique land surrounded by bigger and stronger nations, the Basques have learned to compromise while maintaining their identity. (gentle music) Much unites the Spanish
and French Basque regions. They both share a striking
Atlantic coastline with communities reaching
far into the Pyrenees. They have the same flag,
similar folk music and dance, and a common language spoken
by about half a million people. And both, after some struggles, have been integrated by
their respective nations. The French Revolution quelled French Basque
ideas of independence, and in the 20th century, Spain’s General Franco attempted to tame his own
separatist minded Basques. But in the last generation,
things are improving. The long suppressed Basque language is enjoying a resurgence. And because the European Union is interested in helping
small ethnic regions as well as big countries, the Basques are enjoying more autonomy. So just who are the Basques? Sure, you can still find a
few beret capped shepherds that fit the traditional cliche, but the vast majority of Basques are modern and relatively
prosperous city dwellers. Widespread Spanish and French immigration has made it difficult to know who actually has Basque ethnic roots. Locals consider anyone who
speaks the Basque language to be Basque. If you know where to look, Basque customs are strong and lively, perhaps nowhere more so than
in one of their favorite sports called Jai alai. Players use a long wicker
basket to whip a ball smaller and far harder than a baseball off walls at more than 150 miles per hour. (gentle music) For less adrenaline, but
just as much Basque culture, there’s the institution of
the Men’s Gastronomic Club. These clubs are common
throughout Basque country, and range from the more working class communal kitchen type of place, to the fairly highbrow,
more exclusive version with extensive wine cellars
and gastronomic libraries. The club serves several functions. Traditionally, Basque
society is matrilineal. Women run the show at home. These provide a men’s night out. It’s also a place where friends who’ve known each other since grade school can enjoy quality time together, speaking Basque and
savoring traditional ways in an ever faster world. And it’s a place where men cook together, and celebrate the famed
Basque culinary traditions. While much of Basque country is in France, most of the land industry
and people are in Spain, and many consider Spanish Basque culture to be feistier and more colorful than that of the more
integrated French Basques. The leading tourist destination
in Spain’s Basque country is San Sebastian. Shimmering above its breathtaking bay, elegant and prosperous San Sebastian, or Donostia as locals call their town, is your best home base for
exploring Basque country. With its romantic setting
on the sea, lively old town, and its soaring statue of
Christ gazing over the city, San Sebastian has a mini
Rio de Janeiro aura. It’s shell shaped Playa de la Concha, the pride of San Sebastian, boasts one of Europe’s
loveliest stretches of sand. While sunbathers pack
in shores in the summer, the elegant Promenade is
pleasantly devoid of commercialism. For a century, the Promenades
wrought iron balustrade has been a symbol of the city. It shows up on everything
from headboards to jewelry. In the 1840s, Spain’s Queen Isabel II was
a regular here on the beach. Her doctors recommended
she treat her skin problems by bathing here in the sea. Spain’s aristocracy took note, and soon San Sebastian was on
the map as a seaside resort. By the turn of the 20th century, San Sebastian was the
toast of The Belle Epoque, and a leading resort for
Europe’s beautiful people. Hotels, theaters and casinos flourished. Even the anti Basque
dictator of Spain, Franco, enjoyed 35 summers here in a place he was sure
to call not Donostia, but San Sebastian. Huddled under its once
protective hill is the old town. This is where San Sebastian
was born about 1,000 years ago. It’s port, while sleepy today, has long hosted the town’s
hardworking fishing boats. Because the town was almost entirely
rebuilt after an 1813 fire, its architecture is generally
neoclassical and uniform. Still, the grid plan of
streets hides surprises. Ornate Baroque can gothic
churches, delightful plazas, and shops offering fascinating
insights into this culture. Local guide Itsaso
Petraperena is joining me so my window shopping
will take on some meaning, such as the importance of salted cod. – This shop is all about cod. It’s very, very important
for the Basque culture. Salted cod has been part
of our culture, economy, and daily food. Historically, sailors used
to have it in their boats. Now it’s very, very big part
of our cultural heritage as well as our economy. – What is the word in Basque? (Itsaso speaking in foreign language) – Like Spanish? (Rick and Itsaso speaking
in foreign language) – Yes.
– And what is the recipe? – The recipe is you have two
soak it in water for 48 hours. – So I can’t just take it now and eat it? – No, I’m afraid not. – Have to wait.
– Yes. – [Rick] But there are
plenty of taste treats you can eat right now. Shops show how with the fertile land, Basque cuisine is rich and varied. – [Itsaso] You are going to love this. – [Rick] Okay, why? – Okay, the cheese. (Itsaso speaking in foreign language) Mix it with walnuts and
apple jelly all together. – All together, yeah? – Beautiful flavor.
– Let’s have some. – Can I please have these ones? – [Rick] So three things together here? – Yes.
– Okay. – [Itsaso] Bits of these, some walnuts. – [Rick] Okay. – [Itsaso] And we finish with some sweet, in this case is apple jam. – Apple jam. So sheep cheese from the mountains. – Mm-hmm. – Walnuts.
– Walnuts. – And?
– Apple jam. – All together?
– All together. – It’s a good combination. – This is a very traditional dessert here in the Basque land, – You have the salty and the
sweet and the Basque cheese. – And the Basque cheese. – How do you say delicious in Basque? (Itsaso speaking in foreign language) (Rick speaking in foreign language) That’s very good. So tell me about this marijuana store. – Well, in Spain it is illegal to sell it, but you can grow it at home, but only for your own personal use. – Okay, so this shop
would sell seeds and tools to help you grow at home? – Yes. – As is the case in
more and more countries, low key shops cater to the needs of locals who enjoy marijuana legally
by growing it at home. If this variety of plant appeals, just ask for the proper
seeds and some grow lamps. Maybe a handbook for this new
niche in the gardening market, and then perhaps get the latest on just the right liquid fertilizer. The old town’s main square lined with inviting cafe tables today is where bull fights used to be held. Balconies still sport their seat numbers. Above it all, the seal of San Sebastian shows a merchant ship, a reminder of the Basque
country’s rich seafaring heritage. – People say that best food in Spain is in the Basque country, and from the Basque country, the best food is here in San Sebastian. Let’s go in, let’s go. – I can hardly wait. San Sebastian is famous for its many bars offering a dazzling array of tapas. They’re called pinchos in Basque. Basically, you belly up to the bar, point to what you like and munch away. (Rick speaking in foreign language) Zurito is a small beer in Basque. Don’t worry, they’ll keep track
of what you eat and drink. It’s rude to put dirty
napkins on the counter. They belong on the floor. No matter how much you like a place, save room for the next bar. You wanna be mobile. That’s part of the fun. – In San Sebastian, we have so many bars that I cannot even count them. We go bar hopping and every
bar has its own specialty. – It’s famous little treat?
– Yes. – Oh, good. This bar is loved for its
Txangurro, that’s spider crab, and its mushrooms. This one’s a town favorite for shrimp, and they all serve Txacoli, fresh white wine poured
from high to aerate it, which adds sparkle. It’s good with seafood, and therefore pairs well
with Basque cuisine. Bars display their pinchos midday and again in the early evening, and keep your eye out for
bars with empty counters. The best tapas are often
not the ones on display, but the hot ones advertised on blackboards and cooked to order. The specialty here, melt
in your mouth beef cheeks in red wine sauce. Pulpo or octopus, and Foie Gras, grilled goose
liver with apple sauce. Tasty delights all coming
out of a tiny kitchen. Wandering the streets, you see there’s a political
edge to the graffiti. This poster shows Basque separatists doing time in Spanish prisons
for violent activities. So tell me about the
separatist group, the ETA. – I’m proud to be Basque. However, we have three
different mentalities, which they are the first ones. Ones that they are very proud to be Spanish or French citizenship. – So Basque people content to be Spanish citizens or French citizens? – Some of them, yes.
– Okay. – People who want
independence without violence. – Okay, so the peaceful
ones that want independence. – Yes, and the ones that they
are fighting for independence. – Okay, so people who are willing to fight to make an independent free Basque state. – Yes. – And that group is the
group supported by the ETA. – Yes, exactly. (somber music) – [Rick] Certain pubs have
separatist sympathies. You’ll know by the photos of prisoners and political murals on the walls. While the struggle for Basque independence is in a relatively calm stage with the vast majority
opposing violent tactics, there are still underlying tensions between Spain and those among the Basques who aspire to more autonomy. Traveling on, we enjoy pastoral scenes
along our rugged coastline. Overlooking the Bay of Biscay, the countryside here is green and lush. (gentle music) An hour’s drive takes us to Guernica. The market town of Guernica
has a workaday feel, typical of this region which is one of Spain’s most industrial. Visiting its stately parliament building, you sense the importance of
this town to Basque culture. Historically, leaders
would gather in the shade of an old oak tree. (gentle music continues) And this new oak tree, supposedly a descendant
of the original one, reminds the Basque people of
their unique clan traditions. In the adjacent assembly chamber, historic portraits of Basque lords surround today’s representatives. And high above, a medieval
lord swears allegiance to the almost sacred book of Basque laws. In the next room, a stained glass ceiling
causes Basque hearts to stir. A sage leader standing under
that venerated oak tree holds the old law, which provided structure to
Basque society for centuries. Around him are groups representing the traditional
Basque livelihoods, sailors and fishermen, miners and steelworkers, and farmers. And it’s all set in a
classic Basque landscape. While it does have deep cultural roots, most people know Guernica
for a horrific event in the years leading up to World War II. Guernica was bombed flat in 1937. Because it was long the symbolic
heart of Basque separatism, the city was a natural target
for the dictator Franco in the Spanish civil War. His ally, Hitler, wanted a chance to try
out his latest technology in aerial bombardment. The result, the infamous bombing raid that Picasso immortalized in
his epic work, “Guernica.” (somber music) Picasso’s mural, considered by many to be the greatest
anti-war work of art ever, tells the story. It was market day. The town was filled with
farmers from the countryside. First, a single German warplane
bombed bridges and roads leading out of the town. Then more planes arrived. Three hours of relentless
saturation bombing followed. People running through the streets were strafed with machine gun fire. By sunset, the planes had left, leaving thousands of casualties
and Guernica in rubble. (somber music continues) (upbeat music) Nearby, the city of Bilbao
has recently been transformed from a gritty steel town to
a happening cultural center like no other Spanish city. Entire sectors of the industrial city’s
long depressed port have been cleared away to
allow for new construction. This bridge is part of what’s now a delightfully
people friendly riverfront. Bilbao’s old town is well worth a stroll. You’ll find tall
buildings and narrow lanes lined with thriving shops and tapas bars. A modern light rail line conveniently laces the old town
with points along the river to the site which spearheaded
Bilbao’s urban Renaissance, the Guggenheim Museum. While its contemporary art
collection is impressive, it’s the building designed by Frank Gehry and opened in 1997 that’s created a stir in
the world of architecture, and put Bilbao on the travelers map. Gehry’s groundbreaking design helped set a new standard
for architecture. Using cutting edge technologies, unusual materials and daring forms, he created a piece of
architectural sculpture that smoothly integrates
with its environment. With the bridges,
pedestrian promenade and art all complimenting the building,
it’s an engaging ensemble. Gehry was inspired by
a variety of visions. For instance, to him, the building’s multiple forms jostle like a loose crate of bottles. Guarding the main entrance is Jeff Koons’ towering
West Highland Terrier, made of 60,000 living plants which blossom in a carefully
planned visual concert. A joyful structure, it takes viewers back to their childhood. “Puppy” as it’s known to locals, was meant to be temporary, but the people of Bilbao
fell in love with “Puppy,” so they bought it. Stepping inside, you naturally
flow to the museum’s atrium, which acts as the heart of the building, pumping visitors in and
out of various rooms on three levels. The glass and limestone panels overlap each other like fish scales. Each is unique, designed by a computer. Joyful as the building is, the art it holds is even more fun. While the museum’s audio guides give meaning to the abstract art, my hunch is that the artists are entirely happy for us
to simply wander, interact, and play with their creations. (upbeat music continues) This is art that welcomes you in. Bilbao’s Guggenheim
Museum makes you smile. (Rick laughing) (upbeat music) From here, we leave the
coast and head inland. Within an hour, we cross into the French
part of Basque country. Traditional village settings reflect the colors of the Basque flag. Red and white buildings nestled in the green of the
foothills of the Pyrenees. Spared the beach scene
development of the coast, these villages offer a more rustic
glimpse of Basque culture. Compared to their neighbors
across the border back in Spain, the French Basques seem more
integrated into French culture. You hear the language less
on this side of the border. But still this area blends the
French and Basque influences into its own distinct style. It seems that every
small French Basque town has two things in common. A church and a court called a fronton. These courts where Basque
style pelota or handball is enjoyed by experts and beginners alike, dominate town centers and
add a unique ambiance. The inviting town of Espelette
is worth a short stop. (gentle music) It’s famous for its red peppers, with strands of them dangling
like good luck charms from many houses and storefronts. Higher in the foothills of the Pyrenees is the town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Like many of these villages,
it’s a hit with hikers. Most are simply on vacation, trekking between Basque villages or heading from the villages
higher into the Pyrenees. But since the Middle Ages, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port has been the historic departure point for pilgrims bound for
Santiago de Compostela, 500 miles away in the
northwest corner of Spain. With its mix of day tripping families and determined pilgrims using the town as a springboard for the time honored pilgrimage, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
has an endearing energy. (car whooshing) To feel the urban pulse
of French Basque country, visit Bayonne back down
on the Atlantic coast. In the town’s old center, tall, slender buildings
decorated in Basque fashion with green and red shutters, tower above narrow streets. Bayonne’s cathedral, funded by its former whaling industry, stands bold and tall amid quaint lanes. We’re here on a Sunday
when the streets are quiet, but surprises reward
those who poke around. This group is celebrating
its cultural roots. While we’re in Basque country, these dancers made it clear to us that rather than being Basque, they were of Gascony descent, from a time when the English
ruled this bit of France. Just another reminder of the
ethnic complexity of Europe. (upbeat music) (crowd applauding) For a dose of French
Basque sporting culture, we’re checking out a Jai alai match. While kids play on the village courts, the pros take the game to another level, and the audience takes the
sport just as seriously. The mascot is cute, the crowd’s revved up, the sport is lightning fast, and the rocketing ball clearly
holds everyone’s attention. (audience cheering) The nearby port town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz is my favorite home base here
in French Basque country. Cradled between its small
port and gentle bay, today it thrives on tourism. The days when whaling, codfishing and pirating made
it wealthy are long gone. Saint-Jean-de-Luz feels cute
and non-threatening today. But in the 17th century, it was a home port to the
fearsome Basque corsairs. These pirates looted and plundered with the French government’s blessing, and the wealth they brought home is evident in the town’s
fine timbered buildings. (gentle music) The main square, Place Louis
XIV is a hub of action, and serves as the town’s
communal living room. It was named for King Louis XIV, who was married here in a small
church just down the street. In 1660 in this beautiful church, little Saint-Jean-de-Luz hosted one of the greatest
political marriages of all time. The King of France, Louis XIV, married the daughter of the King of Spain. This helped to end a
long period of fighting, and forge an alliance between
Europe’s two greatest powers. Why here? Well, one of the reasons is it’s about halfway
between Paris and Madrid. But today, 350 years later,
it’s all about fun in the sun. Holiday-goers fill the cobbled streets. A high embankment is
ideal for a lazy stroll. And the soft sandy beach, which is lovingly groomed every day, is the playful haunt of sun seekers and happy children alike. (gentle music) In the heat of the
summer, Saint-Jean-de-Luz tempts travelers to toss their
itineraries into the bay. The Basques, even though split
between France and Spain, remain a vital culture. And a visit here provides a vivid look at the resilience of Europe’s
smaller ethnic groups. I’m Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on traveling. (upbeat music) (Rick laughing) It’s hot. It’s hot. Sorry, Carla, it’s like burning hot. And before long, San
Sebastian was a regular on the big time beach resort map. Whoa. (upbeat music continues)

The land of the Basque people is split between France and Spain. With a stubborn spirit and an industrious nature, the Basques celebrate this rich heritage while embracing the future.

Host: Rick Steves
Director: Simon Griffith

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