Palermo Food Tour 🇮🇹 Sicily’s BEST Markets & Local Dishes

Palermo Food Tour 🇮🇹 Sicily’s BEST Markets & Local Dishes

We are at Caffe Maria Conti. We started off today with a cappuccino for myself, Horia got a macchiato and we got a chocolate cornetto. On our way here we passed by Mercato del Capo, and they were just setting up things, so we are going to go there next. We’re having a quick little traditional breakfast. We were thinking granita, but actually granita might happen a little bit later. It’s a bit unorthodox, but seeing as we have to cram up more different foods today in one day, we’re going to have to break some rules, sadly. So we’re starting off with this cornetto and coffee, and then we’re going to Mercato del Capo, and after that we’re going to Ballaro Market, and then spending the rest of the day seeing a few different other local spots. Mmm. It’s good, right? Man. It’s very warm. This is one of the best croissants we’ve ever had. Yeah, it’s very decadent. Oh, it’s amazing. So much chocolate in it. Yeah, it’s really gooey inside. Look at this. I love how flaky it is. I love it. Okay, quick little Italian breakfast done. Are you ready for the madness? Are you ready for the smells and the smoke and the yelling? We’ve sat down at one of the stalls here. They have a couple of tables, and we ordered four different tiny dishes so we can try everything quicker so we don’t have to just keep jumping from one spot to another. In Palermo, the most famous and traditional local pasta is the one with sardines, pine nuts, raisins, and essentially they have this sort of mix that they use for many different dishes, especially with fish. So what we have here today is swordfish involitini, so involitini di pesce spada, rolled up slices of swordfish cooked with onions, pine nuts, raisins, and I think some sage as well, and obviously a lot of orange and orange zest on top. That’s why it’s orange. Also, we were sort of coerced into having a glass of white wine, so here’s to that. It’s starting to get really loud in here. Yes. It’s very zesty. It’s very good. Oh, it has a filling inside as well. It’s not only swordfish. It’s breadcrumbs. Oh, breadcrumbs. Yeah. No, it’s really good. The swordfish is so tender. Very well cooked. With the orange, it’s even better. And also they added oregano. Is it oregano? Yeah, oregano and olive oil. That’s a nice combo. That is a nice combo. Nice surprise. Oh, no. A raisin. Oh, no. An intruder. Oh, my God. Yep. Why not? Why not? This is actually one of the lightest things we’ve had in a while. Yeah. And I think if you come here and you’re looking for something that’s not too rich, this is a fantastic option. We’re going to move on to the dish right next to it. This is very similar. It’s called sarde a Becafico. And it’s essentially, they call them stuffed sardines, but realistically it’s another role. Very similar to this with a mix of breadcrumbs, pine nuts, raisins, and obviously the sardine on the outside layer, and quite a bit of parsley and olive oil. All right, let’s give this a go. Same taste, same consistency. The sardine is a little bit crispier. But yeah, because of the taste of the sardine, it’s a lot more fishy. Yeah. So if you’re into that, wonderful. There’s a bit of tail here as well. I somewhat prefer the swordfish simply because it’s a bit just slightly less fishy. Yeah. And it’s just more meaty, really. Yeah, and leaner, I guess. Yes, but this is fantastic. Like, I do love sardines, whether in pasta or otherwise, so I’m super happy with this. Okay, we have two more dishes. We’ve got sort of like a rolled up parmigiana di melanzane, like an eggplant parmigiana. And this is a meatball made out of swordfish and with onions cooked with saffron. Parmigiana di melanzane is one of my favorite dishes. Italian dishes. Of course. All right. It is very good. The difference is between the traditional one. This one is a bit sweeter. Okay. So it might have raisins. I’m not sure. They have raisins. Yeah. Yep, those are raisins. A nice little twist. Sicily, what are you doing to me? Why does everything have raisins in here? Oh my god. I love it. It’s good. And I feel like the cheese is a bit more potent than in the normal one. This is amazing. It’s good. Like I understand why she said that this is their most delicious dish. Because I thought initially it’s not Sicilian. But it is because it has raisins. Exactly. This little twist with the raisins, I think there might be pine nuts in there too. Oh, okay. Haven’t noticed. We’ll perform surgery on this. Yeah, we’ll dissect it. But I’m pretty sure there are. This is absolutely delicious. And there’s definitely bread crumbs. Because the mix is with bread crumbs. We are on our last dish here on the table. We’ve got the swordfish meatballs with saffron and onions. Okay, that actually looks really good. I’ll have a taste. Okay, it kind of disheveled on me. Oh, a lot of oil. The onion is citrusy and saffron-y as well. It’s probably got orange as well. It’s a bit oily to be honest. But it’s very good. It’s a very unique onion. Very unique onion? Yeah. And the swordfish is on the lean side. But just in combination with the onion, it becomes more oily. But it’s very good. Recommend? Yeah. This is quite oily actually. Yeah. Quite oily. This is magnificent. The onion is very good, right? I mean, it doesn’t even taste of onion. Yeah, I know. It tastes of orange more than onion. Yeah. And saffron as well. They were very, very generous with the olive oil. They could have done a bit less. But this is really good. Out of all of them, this would be my definite number one. Yeah. But because it’s a little bit too oily, I would actually go with the swordfish rolls. Yeah, same. And then with the aubergine rolls, the eggplant rolls, and then with this one. Yeah. And the sardines would be number four for me. But honestly, go with either of them. They’re all really delicious. Or if not, just go with the wine. That’s an option. These guys with the smoke, they have the stigghiola. The intestines. Okay. You excited for that? I’m not trying that. Come on. But I wish you good luck. Do you bid me farewell? Yes. I ordered the stigghiola, which is basically rolled up grilled intestine. The traditional one is either goat or lamb. And I was kind of hoping this would be pork. Why? I don’t know why. Anyway, it’s lamb. It’s very loud, very smoky. Just like we like it. I present to you la piece de resistance. This is what separates the men from the boys. Okay. We’ve got lemon, which I’m going to drench this in. What this is, the curly thing, this is lamb intestine. And on the inside, we have some spring onions and there was something else, but I forgot. Anyway, let’s just dive in. Yeah, let’s just rip the band-aid. The word “let’s” means “let us.” No, I’m not. First of all, I’m not eating lamb in general. Oh, yeah, that’s where you draw the line. And second, I’m not eating intestine. Because if this would have been chicken intestine, you would have been all over it. It’s the lamb that the problem is. Sure, would I have wanted a tissue, perhaps? Okay, let me see which one is the curliest. All right, there we go. Nice and drenched in lemon. Thank you so much… The guy that was selling said to me, “Don’t run, it’s delicious.” So? Chewy, maybe? It’s not that chewy. The flavor is okay, it’s good. It does not taste of lamb at all, like it could be any intestine. It could be mine, or it could be yours. Who knows? What it does taste of, however, is fat. Really? So it chews and it tastes like the fat bit on a steak, perhaps. I would have thought intestine is kind of lean. Not that I’ve ever thought about intestine. Look, this looks kind of fat, doesn’t it? If you look at it, it looks kind of fat. Yeah, it’s fatty. Maybe the fat is extra. Maybe the lamb was fat. Maybe they added some lard, just to make it a bit less chewy. So the reason why this is hard to eat is because it’s fat. The flavor itself, you know, it’s like grilled fat. It’s not bad, especially with the onions and the lemon. The taste, it’s good. It’s just heavy. Is it something your dad would eat? He would cannonball into it. He would probably take bits, juggle them up in the air and swallow them one by one. It would be a bit like that. So, dad, when and if you’re watching this, one day, we will come to Palermo together. And you can have an all you can eat stigghiola buffet, if you want, okay? But until that day, this is going to be hard to eat. Are you going to finish this up? I don’t like throwing food away, and I won’t. What about if we find some cats? If I find a cat, the cats will probably be like, “Oh, not stigghiola again.” “Everyone’s giving me stigghiola.” We’re almost nearing the end of Mercato del Capo. We’ve got about a 10-minute walk to Balaro Market, which is the bigger one. Similarly old, they’ve both been set up at the end of the 9th century during the Arab rule. Hence why this is happening in these tiny narrow streets. It gives it a bit of an Islamic souk feel, I guess. I found the perfect thing to wash the stigghiola off with, I’m going to get a Cedro Spritz. This is a different type of aperitivo made out of cedrata fruit. It’s also a citrus, kind of like a limoncello, but not as lemony and more orangey, in between somewhere. Let’s give it a go. Horia found a cat to feed it some stigghiola, and it actually… It was only two bits that I wanted to give her. And it actually hissed at him. So I’m not sure if she was like, “Oh, no, it’s stigghiola.” It’s funny that she actually hissed at you. I never got to do it, sadly. The cat was like, “No, go away.” I know this is meant for you, but I’m going to… It’s not meant for me, it’s fine. It’s good, but it’s very sweet. It’s very sweet? I was already under the table The people from Paris celebrating their wid from last night… But we’re not in Paris! Oh, God. Jesus Christ, that was… So we just actually walked past the beautiful cathedral of Palermo. And if you want to see more of Palermo, things that are not necessarily related to street food, we do have another vlog showing you everything that we did in Palermo over three days. That is including beaches, amazing beaches, the cathedral, the big castle here in Palermo, and just like everything that you should be doing or that you could be doing when you come visit Palermo. But today, we’re just focusing on the food. And we are now walking from Mercato del Capo towards Ballaro Market. It’s about a 15-minute walk that takes you very beautifully past the cathedral here. These streets actually, around here, are actually so beautiful. Very quiet. That’s a really nice change. I love how they’re protecting their clothes with that tiny… Like, how are you ever going to bypass that fortress of security? We now arrived in Ballaro Market. This is the largest of the markets in Palermo, and it’s also very old, same as the previous one. The difference is there’s kind of a bit of traffic here. A bit of traffic and the streets seem to be a bit wider. There’s a lot more space, but also a lot more people. And music. And music, yes, we do have music too. Alright, so with that said, we have to have some arancino. Arancina. Arancina. Please look at this. It’s just a vibe. It’s just random. Techno music from a Fiat from the 80s, sure, why not? Arancina, Sfincione, the local pizza. And obviously a limoncello with Sicilian lemons. We’ve had that now and again throughout our vlogs here in Sicily. But we need to have one here, like we just have to. Alright, ready to go? Let’s jump in. They’re coming for you. So while I was waiting for the cars to cross whatever, there was a guy who went past me and said, “La Principressa di Palaroma.” “Beautiful.” I don’t know… Palaroma? Just take it. First impressions about this second market is that it’s way crazier and the vendors are way more pushy. Everyone’s kind of yelling at you. But in a polite way, no one’s pushing past asking you once. No, no, no, they’re not insisting, but they’re asking. Yeah, they definitely are asking. Shoving menus in your face as well. That’s a thing. We got the next dish here. We have the typical Panelle e Crocche, the sort of rectangular shaped chickpea fritters. And we got the potato croquettes inside. All of this in a bun. So this is chickpeas and potatoes in bread. It’s dry. Oh, yeah, I kind of imagined. Do you think the bread is a must? I missed that. Is the bread a must? Well, otherwise you just eat Panelle, which is the little chickpea fritters. You can definitely have that on the side anyway. So you can order these and that’s fine. All three items individually are tasty because the potato croquettes are, they have some herbs. The Panelle are delicious. The bread is very good. It’s just that all three in one is like having bread with bread with bread. And it’s kind of a bread overkill. I like bread. So then you should like this? It just, it feels like this could be a side to something. So as far as taste goes, it’s delicious. But as far as texture goes, it’s a little bit dry, so I think it’s a bit hard to eat. I’ve had three bites and I think this is good enough for me for now. Anything more than this, you just, I feel like I will, it make me feel like a dumpling. You are a dumpling. Which I am. I will give you that. Even though the vibe in the market is nuts and it would have been fantastic to film this segment there, they were blasting Macarena. And sadly, I think we might get demonetized for Macarena. So as such, we are giving Laura the honor of tasting the lovely sfincione. It’s sort of like a pizza slash focaccia with tomato sauce, anchovies, onions and caccio cavallo. And it’s typical Sicilian. Yes. So the place we got this from was very popular. We’ve definitely seen that place online, haven’t we? Yeah. Very good. The dough is so soft and the filling is so flavorful. Really good. Would you recommend this to friends and family? Yes. What about enemies? Yes. You’re a good person. Want to taste? Sure. Watch me say no to sfincione. Maybe you can get more of the filling. Very good. Straight up, everything is good. But the tomato sauce is incredible. I would rate it 10 out of 10 simply for the tomato sauce. Yes. So soft. You don’t even have to chew on it. Very good. A lot of filling. Very, very good. Probably one of the highlights today. I love it. Sfincione. The classic arancina. You call it arancino in Catania and on the eastern coast of Sicily. And it has more of a volcano-like shape over there. It’s round on this side of Sicily and you call it arancina. And it’s essentially a fried rice doughy ball with whatever you get inside. I got the classic, the ragout. This is meat sauce with some peas. You had this yesterday too, right? I did have this as part of the previous vlog. You’re right. In Palermo you can find really nice delis that just specialize on arancinas. And you can find multiple flavors there. Pistachio, mortadella, truffle, all kinds of stuff. So if you want to try different kinds, definitely go to one of those. But if not in the market you’ll find the classics. The classics are the ragout one and then there’s one that doesn’t have meat, it just has cheese. Compared to the one from the previous vlog? More of a meat flavor. I think the previous one was better seasoned. It’s very good, like come on. And for the fact that we paid €7 for this and the sfincione on top, It’s actually really affordable. And one thing about arancinas, they are so filling. You have one of this that can almost replace a meal. Like they’re very filling. One thing that’s actually different about this one is that it’s very peppery. Way more peppery than the previous ones. Which kind of works really well with the meat, so here’s to that. Thank you so much. We had to escape the market. We got our final things that we needed from the market. The music was so loud. We had to have our food somewhere else because you couldn’t. We came here to the side. This is our final stop. Market related. We are going for two more quick stops after this. And then we’ll take a break for a couple of hours. We’ll go home, get a bit refreshed. I need to shower after this experience. And then we’ll be off again. But for now Laura has our favorite food here. And I have a thing that I am slightly scared of. So after eating lamb intestines, this feels like a walk in the park. We have a traditional Sicilian Palermitano pane con la milza. This is a sandwich. A bun with spleen and lungs from viels. And a bit of Cacacavallo cheese grated on top. Some lemon and salt. It’s a very simple sandwich. Very traditional. This is one of the most affordable dishes you can find here in Palermo in the street food. It usually is around €2 or €2.50 kind of. I think I’ve done enough talking and I’ve been stalling long enough. Time to dive in. Good luck. The bread is very good. I’ll start with the positives. Now everything else…pluses. It’s not fat. You can tell that. It’s fairly lean. But it does have that boiled, offal, organ type of taste. It reminds me of, I don’t know, I think when I was little my parents or someone used to make sort of like stew with hearts and stuff like that. Gizzards and stuff like that. It’s a bit like that. It’s fairly harmless. It doesn’t really taste like much. It’s a bit like boiled meat. Which it really is. It’s a very neutral taste. I would say the most that you can taste is the lemon and the bread. It’s not bad. Honestly it’s not. It’s filling. It’s nutritious which is quite important. It’s protein. Okay, enough savory food for now. We have about a five, six minute walk from Balaro Market here to what is alleged as being the best cannolo in Palermo. We haven’t had any cannoli today. I’m really excited for it. Thank you for the remainder of the aperol. You’re welcome. Wash that off. One of the main attractions in Palermo is the Monastero Santa Caterina. It’s this really old monastery and it does attract way more people than a normal monastery would simply because they have this really famous bakery on the premises. So the nuns make this absolutely delicious. All kinds of stuff. Initially I read that they have the best cannolo in Palermo but turns out they just have everything really. And for the first time we had to queue up to buy food. YoWeu had to queue up to get in the main room where you had to queue up to get selected to tell them your order. Anyway we just bought one cannolo but it is one huge cannolo. Most of them or I think all of them have this ricotta filling. And you can just ask for different toppings that they would add on the side ends. We asked for pistachio. And you can also see the process of them filling the cannolo. This is by far the biggest cannolo I’ve ever seen in my file. It’s heavy too. It’s very heavy. And it was quite expensive. I mean it was €4 but this is like like breakfast, lunch and dinner big size. Honestly? Oh you actually like it. I’m not a big fan of cannoli. But this is so good. Do you think that cannoli insist upon themselves? Kind of, yes. The cream filling is so fresh and so light and so fluffy almost. And the batter itself is very good. Usually I’m not a fan of it but it’s so good. This is the best one ever. Yeah. It actually has flavor. It tastes like cheese. I don’t know how to explain it but sometimes when you taste cheese it tastes like milk. It tastes like cow’s milk somehow. Very flavorsome. And the pistachio is good and also the batter. Definitely worth it. We’ve had cannoli here and there since we’ve been in Sicily. And this is by far the best one. When in Palermo do as the Palermitanos do and that’s exactly what we did today. We spent all day at the food markets. We went home chilled relaxed. Someone slept. I napped for a bit. Now we are off for the aperitivo. We are on our way to what is possibly the best beer hall. The biggest variety of beers here in Palermo. Local beers. I don’t think they do actually. Okay. That’s allright. You’ve had good beers. Yeah. And then we’re going off for a bit of a dinner with some local food again. Some local pasta. I’m actually quite excited for this. I’m starting to get a bit hungry if you can’t believe it. So on our way to this beer spot we are walking exactly through where one of the markets that we went to today was. And honestly it feels like nothing ever happened. Obviously there are trash bags on the corner of the streets. But I know places in London where there are markets during the day and then as soon as they’re done they need hours and it looks horrendous. So this is way better than London honestly. So for us this vlog is part of a large series around Sicily. And tomorrow we’re actually leaving Palermo for Cefalu. I can’t wait for Cefalu. Yeah. Honestly me too. They have some of the best beaches in Sicily. But the only problem is tomorrow is Italy’s unification day. Their national day. So I think it might actually be a bit busy on the way there. Italians are off from work tomorrow. So I think traffic might be a bit horrible. So we are now on Via Maqueda. This is one of two or three different main streets where all you have is bars, restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops left and right for as far as you can see with your eyes. This is so packed with people right now. Yes I get it. It’s a Sunday so more people would be out. But this is crazy. Now coming here for dinner or for drinks on the side of the road is something that many people do. And odds are you’re not going to have a terrible experience. But you definitely need to check out the side streets because that’s exactly where the really cool spots are. I have the honour of staying near Richard Geer’s photo. The intention was to go for the beer place. And Horia wanted me to say the name of the beer place. It’s called “Cuccutiunci”. What? “Cuccutiunci”. However it was closed. It is closed. I think it opens at 7pm. Although it’s advertised as open right now. For context, it’s not 7pm yet. But we went to the next place, next door. And it honestly looks great. Very cool place. I can order wine as well so I don’t have to have beer. And I can order a really cool beer that I haven’t seen ever. So it’s a good compromise. Amazing. It’s called “Ai Lattarini”. We’ve been around this street a few times because we recognize it because of the decorations. Yeah. Really pretty. And this little nook that we have here with all the tables. This is also really nicely decorated. As you said we got Richard Gere and the Rolling Stones and Tina Turner next to you. It’s all good. But my point is I love how they have these photos here on the wall as if these guys have been here. But just like… Maybe they have. Maybe Tina Turner sang here. And maybe Pretty Woman happened here. Sure. In Ai Lattarini. By the way our glass looks really cool. We should get some of these for home, not the ugly ones that we have. Wow. That hurts. Sometimes words hurt. I feel like every guy has ugly beer glasses. It’s part of the vibe of having a beer at home. It doesn’t have to be pretty. That’s when you come to Ai Lattarini and enjoy a nice glass. I do have to say your beer is very good. Lovely place Ai Lattarini. Lovely people. If you are in this part of Palermo, definitely come here for a beer. These are some really cool streets. Just literally whether you hang out here or there, it makes no difference. This place has no traffic, which is a plus. I’m always with the traffic info. We’re just arriving at our dinner spot. We’re still in the old town. Really beautiful street. We actually have not seen this street so far. No. Ready for some pasta? Yes. Always. Very important when you’re in Palermo, especially during weekends, make a reservation for dinner. We came to Maccio Osteria Alcolica. Alcolico? Alcolica. Alcolica. We got a traditional pasta with sardines and some calamari filled with oine nuts and cheese and some other stuff. I don’t know. Yeah. Horia got a… Cheerio. Enormous Negroni. The biggest Negroni. I have ever seen in my entire life. No, no, no. You’ve had one in Venetia. I think this is bigger. The one in Venice? Yeah. Okay. I got a rose wine. Cheers. By the end of this, I’ll be singing all the way home. Again. Out of tune. Again. Wow. Wow. You know words hurt, you know that. I have to say this street is so beautiful. It’s very tiny. It’s pedestrian. A lot of restaurants here. But this restaurant is the best rated on the whole street. Yeah. This is the stuffed calamaro. It is very good… Delish? It has a very powerful taste of parsley. Oh, that’s nice. The filling. I like that. And it’s very well cooked. It’s really flavorful. It’s good. And it seems lean. I really like it. So we only got this because our waiter said that this is his favorite. I’m having pasta con sardé, spaghetti con sarde. This is the most palermitano type of pasta you can get. It’s pasta with sardines, wild fennel, raisins, and pine nuts. And bread crumbs. Loads of bread crumbs on top. Instead of parmigiano, you use bread crumbs. The origins are a poor man’s dish. So instead of having nice, expensive panerigiano, you have bread crumbs. So far we’ve had quite a few dishes today and the days before with raisins, pine nuts, fennel. This combination is very prevalent whether you’re having swordfish rolls or any kind of other stuff, like sardine rolls we had this morning. We are finishing today off exactly kind of where we started next to Teatro Massimo, the big opera house here in Palermo. Dinner was delicious. Fabulous. My pasta, the traditional pasta con sarde, was very good. However… My squid was not “cucina povera”. “povera”? It was amazing. The stuffing was amazing. The squid was very well cooked. The drinks were great. The atmosphere was on point, so no complaints. I’m so happy we booked a table at… Yes, macho. Macho, alcolico, whatever. Osteria Alcolica. I really enjoyed today’s vlog, honestly. As far as food vlogs go, this was one of the easiest ones to make, in my opinion. Realistically, you don’t have to walk more than 10-15 minutes between any of these places that we’ve seen today. Yes, so wherever you go in Central Palermo, you’ll find something to eat. And if the place that you want to go to is fantastic, but it’s closed, surely within five minutes walk away, there must be at least five other places. And don’t be shocked that it’s closed, even though it’s not supposed to be closed. Thank you so much for watching our vlog today. I hope you guys enjoyed it. I hope you can get some inspiration for your travels to Palermo. Don’t forget to like this video, subscribe to our channel, and… We’ll see you in the next one. In Cefalu, at the beach.

Palermo is one of the street food capitals of the world, and in this video we take you through its most iconic markets — Mercato del Capo and Ballarò — to taste the very best of Sicilian street food.

We try everything from Stigghiola (grilled lamb’s intestine) to Pane e Panelle (chickpea fritter sandwiches) with crispy crocchè, to Involtini di Melanzane (rolled eggplant with pine nuts and raisins), and even Polpette di Pesce Spada (swordfish meatballs with saffron). Along the way we sip local drinks, explore the buzzing market streets, and finish with a plate of traditional Sicilian pasta.

If you’re planning a trip to Palermo or just love Italian food, this is your guide to what to eat in Palermo — from legendary market snacks to classic local dishes.

✨ What you’ll see in this vlog:

Walking through Mercato del Capo & Ballarò Market
Trying Palermo’s most famous street foods
Tasting local wine & drinks
Visiting hidden corners of the markets
A delicious local pasta finale

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CHAPTERS

00:00 Intro
00:36 Coffee & Cornetto
02:10 Mercato del Capo
08:50 Crazy Street Food Inside the Market
15:55 Mercato Ballaro
18:11 Pane e Panelle
20:20 Sfincione
21:55 Arancina
24:04 Veal Lung & Spleen Sandwich
26:46 Incredible Cannolo
32:03 Aperitivo Time
34:23 Perfect Dinner with Local Pasta