Andiamo in RUSSIA | Cosa serve per entrare col CAMPER
Be careful about complaining about the heat. If you ask for cool, it’ll come. I want the right temperature, 28°C, 30% humidity. White sand, 28°C sea in my hand. Is that okay? We’ve got the wrong itinerary for this summer. You were the one who wanted cool, and we’re going for cool. So, have you seen Pipe Lake? I also said Ciudi Lake. Well, if you don’t know where it is , go look for it. Well, it’s not easy to find either. The bar should theoretically open in half an hour. Now, since there’s a breeze and we’re wearing a sweater, I don’t know, I’ll either get it in the camper or take the car and go, especially because we’re going somewhere, we’re taking a road quite east. We’re skirting this lake, which is a border lake, yes, because it’s divided between two nations. Two nations, well, a small one was on the other, enormous. We’re heading north and east because we’ve decided to do something crazy. Going to Russia. We’ll try, we’ll see for a moment. So, basically, we’re all over there and all over. I’ve never seen the fir tree on the beach, the pine tree here. The place is also nice. On a sunny day we probably would have even stopped. Now the only thing we care about is getting coffee and moving on, skirting the lake and getting to Narva, where the border is. No, no coffee. [Music] Yeah. [Music] I might have the blting [Music] off my shoes. You might think you see me falling to the ground but I threw up my umbrella. When the rain stops sitting down on a bad day [Music] [Music]
the altimeter has gone crazy. We’re in front of the border gates, basically. There are people queuing up there on foot. Narva. Narva border. [Music] Now that the rain has stopped, we can show you where we’ve arrived. Guys, what a fortress we have behind us here. We’re in Narva and this is the Narva fortress. From the maps, it’s a piece of the Narva Fortress. I want to find out more. You? Yes. Let’s go. So, the feeling of being here right now is strange for the time of year. Obviously, we’re in Estonia here, we’re in Russia there. Those people walking over there are Russians. Let’s see if we can say hello to them. Maybe they just crossed the border. A dejev, guys. The same thing that happened on the border with Morocco and Algeria, where there were people on the other side greeting each other and arguing, so to speak, and the nations were like this, well, a bit at odds, so to speak. The strange thing is that this is the natural border. The border with Russia runs right through here. Let’s cross another one. Now I’ll put the map so you can see exactly where we are. And it’s one of the closest points to Russia. Consider that we’re less than 100 km from St. Petersburg. A peculiarity of this fortress is that it’s now obviously divided in two; it’s no longer a single unit; on this side, it’s a museum that costs €16. On the other hand, it’s also a museum. It costs 50 rubles, which is about 50 cents . Can you imagine the price difference in a place like this? They’re unjustified, so I don’t want to sound mean, but hey, everyone decides to charge as much as they want for their monuments, and we know full well that monuments are expensive in Europe, which is why I visit so few of them. Anyway, guys, the feeling, I repeat, of being here in this historic period is bittersweet . Beautiful because the place is beautiful. Bitter because we’re limited. Limited in being able to see it because this bridge, this border, can only be crossed on foot. During this period, we’ve read comments, we’ve spoken to people who’ve tried, there are queues for Europeans, hence the European act of 10, 12, 14 hours. You can stay there at the discretion of the European border guard who decides what to take away from you, what to confiscate. We’re not pro-Russian, anti-Russian, or political, we don’t care at all. We are travelers , and as such, we like to visit, to visit other nations, and so to be here right now and try to see if we can enter another nation, however difficult it may be, and in our soul. We are interested because we are so close to a nation so different from us that We should have at least taken a look. Okay, since we’re nearby, we’d like to show you something. We’re not telling anyone to come here right now to try it because even the Farnesian Ministry doesn’t advise against it. We don’t want to advise anyone to come here. It’s absolutely not the right time. We’re here right now and we think it’s nice to be able to visit. [Music] What do you need to enter Russia? Well, first of all, a passport, but it must be valid for at least six months. Then, to drive in Russian territory, you need an international driving license. You can get this online; there are various services. It’s usually valid for three years. We’re still holding it because I got it last year. Another thing you need to enter Russia right now is a visa. But aside from the classic visa you apply for at the embassy, you can get a quick visa. You apply for an online visa on the official website, they send it to you in four days, and it’s valid for 16 days in Russian territory. You can enter through some borders, but not all. Their website lists the border crossings authorized to accept these eVisas, and you can easily enter through one, but also exit through another. Then, of course, when you’re in Russia with your vehicle , you have to buy insurance. Many insurance companies no longer cover Russia. This insurance is called Osago, you can also find it online, and you can get it for a minimum of 30 days for just a few rubles. What’s important, and this applies everywhere, is health insurance. Since we’re no longer in Europe, a tax code isn’t enough to get healthcare; you need a private policy. Then, of course, when it comes to border crossings, goodbye roamming, so you need to use an e-SIM or buy a SIM card. Now, there are many options here. Okay, so we’ve reached this point. One consideration. St. Petersburg is about 80-90 km from here. It’s always been an important city because it has impressive architectural features. Even the subway is very famous, and perhaps they say it’s better than the one in Moscow. For us, visiting St. Petersburg was also about showing you their culture, what the current situation is, and how they’re experiencing it. Unfortunately, despite all the good intentions and the organization of the things we mentioned earlier, problems have arisen. There are problems crossing the border, or rather, it’s not exactly easy to get to the other side because the first problem that arises is money, because once you cross the border, no credit card works anymore: Visa, American Express, Mastercard, not even PayPal, nothing. So you need to bring enough cash to cover your vacation, and this isn’t always a simple calculation. If you’re thinking of bringing precious metals, that’s also prohibited due to the restrictions they’ve imposed. However, anything that isn’t allowed is confiscated. But it’s not just them, it’s not diamonds, apart from the fact that we don’t have them. And technology like hypotheses, we can’t bring our drone . Sometimes, some types of powerful computers. The law says you can’t bring in items that could be useful to the Russians in developing, sustaining, or funding the war. However, customs officials decide on a daily basis what these items are. So, for example, they can completely search your camper, find a computer, and decide that computer is an item that can’t be taken across, so they confiscate it. There are written laws, or rather, there are laws that are the various embargoes that continue to be issued, but it seems from the comments we’ve read at various customs posts that everyone, every customs officer, every police officer applies these things a bit at will. So sometimes you can find yourself in situations that are easy to resolve, but sometimes you can find yourself in more complex and important situations, like people who have been allowed to cross to the other side without euros because they’ve decided that euros won’t pass through anymore, and so, in short, managing to stay on the other side, and since they don’t… If you have credit cards, that’s something to consider. Another tricky point is figuring out which customs point to go through. Here in Estonia, the closest one to St. Petersburg is this one. Do you see this bridge? This is Narva customs, and it’s pedestrian-only. The other two Estonian customs points are much further south from here. They would have forced us to take a much longer detour just to get to St. Petersburg and back. There ‘s little information about those two customs points online. The various sites we consulted describe traumatic experiences, as the checks on a large vehicle like a camper can take several days, even if we’d wanted to try the 182-day queue at the two southernmost foreign borders. The problem is that, on the European side, to enter Russia, you have to make a request on an Estonian website that’s supposed to manage priority queues. However, this turns out to be a virtual ghost site for almost everyone, meaning there are no bookable dates, no bookable times in any of the 45 days available in advance, making it practically impossible to book. So, to sum up, we came here primarily to try and see this part, which is spectacular anyway: the two opposing fortresses. The problem is that we’re left holding the usual bag. Having said all that, let’s just say , no, we absolutely have no intention of going to Russia right now, so let’s just get on our bikes and take a ride around here, look at the fortresses, and off we go. So, you’re saying they’ll take it for a little joke? No, because in the end, it’s not a little joke. Well, we said we’re going to Russia. That’s exactly what we tried to do, but whether we actually succeed is another matter. Anyway, I was just looking at the people on the fortress over there, looking this way and waving. Now I want to go and say hello too. Here you see someone walking by. On this side is the Estonian flag, and on the other side is the Russian flag. Bye bye. Here we are from the Town Hall Square, without much fanfare, as flat as if there were no tomorrow. Behind it, there’s a building with a strange roof, but there’s no shop, there’s nothing. I mean, this is the main square. Yes, in theory, there’s a funny sign that says not to ski down. This one you’ll see now is the St. Petersburg Tallinn line, or Tallin St. Petersburg, which if you go on Gucco still tells you to take the train, but it’s no longer accessible to me. [Music] Heart with worries. [Music] We also showed you this little part of the world that’s been much discussed lately . We hope you enjoyed it. What we told you is certainly not exhaustive, also because the information continues to change day by day. But we’re happy to have shown you this geographical point where, precisely, we found ourselves these days and we didn’t want to miss it. So now let ‘s set off again for new, other incredible adventures. [Music] [Music] Laema National Park. Ema la Ema la Ema. We even went a little wild, come on. Speed limit 90 km/h. Oh, I’ll make a car. We’re going 25 27 [Music] a bit of mud. What a place! Oh, but how quiet! There aren’t even any waves, really. How strange. In this natural park you can get to the beach, as you’ve seen, by public transport. I must say, there aren’t many parking spaces today. Unfortunately, the day comes and goes, ready to storm. I don’t know if we’re going to the beach today, but we’ll move a little earlier because there’s an area, let’s say, camping, but not a campsite. You can have a barbecue, mostly because the last bit for less is quite muddy. If it rains, I don’t want to get stuck there . Then, we honestly aren’t going to the sea today, but the characteristic of this place is precisely this: you have the beach and immediately behind it a large pine forest, which is quite an impact because there aren’t many places that have this forest so close to the beach. Beautiful. Beautiful place. [Music] This here would be the picnic area we found. Like many green areas have Benches and grills and the problem is that there isn’t even a parking space here today. These cars haven’t even made a sign to move and anyway, everything’s taken and there’s no radio signal and we don’t have to stay connected for work so guys, let’s move. Simple. [Music] First intersection on the right after the traffic light. If this isn’t wild. I want the grill. We need the grill, we have to grill. See? RMK is the name. These are these rest areas, that’s what they ‘re called, RMK. Madonna, look at the holes here. Just go slow, we’re tall. See, there’s the little house over there? There’s maybe even more than one. Hmm. Here’s our spot. We’ll put ourselves here. Sometimes Mauri manages to squeeze Bruto into some spots between two trees. I have to show you what these picnic areas are like. So, here’s the picnic area, there are always tables, always these grills. You build a fire. Get the coals ready. Tac. These are places to sleep. Anyone who comes to sleep in a tent needs a booster seat. Then there’s the firewood shed, already ready. It’s a place where the logs are already cut, stored in here, but if there are no more, you can make fun of them and use this axe to chop them. I’ll get the fire kit. Mixed vegetables, all Estonian and short-bellied. Open France, Cord. [Music] [Music] Good morning. Do you want to explain to me what happened last night? That you woke me up in a panic? No, in a panic? No, almost, come on. No, we’re giving you a free ride. But can you hear these noises here? There was a noise like, oh, we’re alone in the woods. I mean, guys, now all jokes aside. So, look at the scene. Good, bad, there wasn’t a light, nothing, zero. You looked outside, there must have been a camper near us, but it disappeared, it wasn’t there, you couldn’t see it. I started hearing the same noise, three different directions, but it wasn’t just one. I don’t know what it was. I was scared, I was so scared. He said to me, “Do you hear this? There are witches in the woods. The witches in the woods. Help! No, actually they were strange noises, like muffled screams, a bit hissing. I don’t know what animal or maybe it was moose. We need to see if moose make that noise. Now we’ll find out what noise moose make, because there are plenty of signs here. Beware of moose. Beware of moose crossing. Maybe we’ll look for that now. [Music] It’s moose, guys. My goosebumps. I told you they were screaming. Wow, so we had several around here. But there were a lot of them. How scary. Oh, guys, we found out you have goosebumps. I shit myself. I have experience. Let’s start sleeping alone in the woods at night. Besides, guys, I shit myself. Now I’ll show you the woods. Ah, how scary. [Music] [Music] I’ll show you where we’re positioned while Mauri’s cooking the stew. I’ll show you a little camping tour. This is the entrance with the reception and information. I’m going to look at some signs, but most of them are German. There’s tons of space, it’s a cool place. And here’s a secondary exit that practically takes you straight to the station to go to Tallinn. I confirm they’re all German. These guys have been here for a while too, since they have the tomato plant. I found another structure in a corner of the lawn. Oh, this is another bathroom. This sauna cabin, but you have to book. I don’t know why Marina convinces me to do these things. Latvia. Estonia. Estonia. So, they eat a lot of fish here, they dry fish a lot, even the meat, but especially the fish. So today we bought this, I don’t know what it is, fillets of large fish. This one, I’d say, is an anchovy. This one could be mackerel. This one is Protex Protex. And this one, uh, could be pickled. Now let’s open. We’ll do it. Just for science. Yes, science. Slowly, eh, so it’s not like the Sturm Stromman there, that stuff. Yeah. So, start with the ones that seem most edible to me. This one, which is supposed to be pickled, but without the skin, makes me shit my guts. I’m going. You could have even gotten a smaller one. M no, pickled. But trout. How do I know? What is it? I don’t know. But it’s sweetish, So unlike us, we make it more vinegary. Let’s say sour-sweet, then. Hmm, I’m scared. Some Latvian guys recommended this one to us. I make really disgusting junk. This one seemed edible to me. I like mackerel, but this one doesn’t look like it. It’s marinated , maybe. Wait a minute, let’s see. They’re small, whole mackerel. Yes, they’re not skinned fillets. M Thanks, it’s so good. Oh, it’s marinated mackerel, right? Yes, small but smoky. A flavor that’s… There, now I think they’ve run out of edible ones to give you an idea of the consistency. It’s a… How the fuck do you eat this stuff? Come on, they said that’s how they eat dried fish. This is a salty piece of junk. Yeah, like eating a piece of plastic that tastes like bad fish. I think you like it. I might like it. You don’t. Okay. What’s this? Give me some whiskey. Something to rinse it off. Oh, we had to prepare the water. That’s true. Oh, too late. And this was another fish, but cut thinly like this. And Ma, like cod. Yes, yes, yes. It must be cod, a pangasius. And if that’s cod, this one smells like marinade too. No, it’s not marinated. This one is dry, but it looks like they put chili pepper in it. Two of them the same, huh? It looks like plastic. What are you eating with a straw? A little spicy. It’s not really disgusting, but once softened it becomes edible, let’s say. Mackerel is delicious. Carpione is good. That thing there could be improved. I think these ones, cut thinly. Onion, a good amount of vinegar, salad could be good. You eat these. And let’s give them to the cat. There’s a cat here in the countryside. Mao Marina tastes it. Since I tasted it. Now you try it, because I know you like this rubbish. Does he have teeth? They’re the first signs of when I’m 90. No, actually, I like the taste. Oh, I knew if we looked up how to eat them online, maybe. Oh, good morning. I was falling. Good morning. We woke up in Tallinn. For those who don’t know, Tallinn is the capital of Estonia. We parked in an ambiguous parking lot, let’s say in the city, but slightly outside, but not by much, I mean, let’s say it’s strategic, but the signs aren’t very clear because they’re supposed to be glass parking that ends at the first intersection. This is more or less an intersection, I don’t know. Oh well, let’s hope we don’t find that big parking lot when we get back. What are we going to see? We’re going to see the medieval old town of Tallinn, but first we’ll start our visit at a place where we’ll buy a lot of things. Yes, you carry them around. Here, you carry them around, but otherwise I’ll take the bag. So we won’t buy anything. Okay. I don’t know if you can understand the subliminal messages coming to your screen. Well, if you haven’t noticed, above me there’s a classic indication of a subliminal message, the one in green, but everyone can interpret it however they want. This neighborhood is beautiful because it’s a reclaimed industrial area filled with old factories and warehouses, all now trendy spots where you can play billiards, right? They’ve reclaimed it as an area and turned it into a nightlife hub. This one’s actually a shipping container, one container on top of another making a bar. This is another gem, a bar set up around a train car under an old railway. This is still the industrial area, like before with all the little bars, but you can also see the writing on the facade, which is in the local language, Cilician and English. Now they’re just some very strange warehouses, like here, they’re renovating one, keeping the industrial base, beautiful for its glass windows, and building a, let’s say, a oxidized steel structure on top of it all . It’s gorgeous. I love these things. Here we are at the market. Let’s see. It’s really bad, strawberries, chanterelles, and tomatoes at €6 a kilo don’t seem like such a bargain to me. Aside from the food, which seems a good 30-40% more expensive than in the supermarkets, there are plenty of chic little places here, like we have a vegan B1 Caffè. God, it looks like the ones that make Armenian bread, remember? [Music] Nice, huh? Nice colors, lots of scents, but too chic. 50% more than the normal store. Some things even double. Yes, definitely. We’re back at the Porfido Malefico. [Music] Here we are again at the Santolab church. Guys, just think that the tower alone leaves the roof hanging down. Just the wall part is 60 meters high. The roof part is 60 meters high. Total is 123 meters and to reach the top there are a whopping 258°. [Music] Among the many buildings here there’s a particular one. Yes, this was the Russian consulate which was closed. Obviously the officials left and cordoned off the area in front and put up some signs regulating the war in Ukraine. Here we come across another church and the architecture in general is very particular. [Music] [Applause]
And here we are at the town hall square. The town hall, this is behind me, is in Gothic style, so a town hall in Gothic style is also a bit of a peculiarity. We’re in the town hall square and it’s pretty, with very unique architecture, with several buildings that have nothing to do with each other. Chinese. [Music] And here we are, the Gay Gate, one of the city’s various entrance gates, the one that remains, the most photographed, dating back to 1363. Obviously, this one gave access to the central part of the city. We found a secret passage. Let’s take a look at [Music] these behind me. They’re some tombstones found in the floor of a cathedral. They’re positioned before the actual, let’s say, ancient passage, which slightly reproduces what the ancient road was like, which are these three arches with this final part that you can see. Now let’s go to the other side. Then Tallinn is full of these beautiful medieval passages, but all with stairs, though. So we’re taking a different route on our bikes now. [Music] From here, one of the most photographed and Instagrammed cathedrals appears. [Music] And here we are, at the top after the long climb with the bike at full blast, so Marina hated me. We’ve arrived at the Alexander Neschi Cathedral, guys, I don’t know how to pronounce it, I’m a bit of a long SK gre mess. Russian-style Orthodox cathedral. Now let’s walk around it to try to see why there’s a little square in front of it. [Music] For what did happen to all and do it for me. It feels like I’m losing my mind. Well, here we are at the end of our short visit to Tallinn. Tallinn is a northern city, dear, and as such it doesn’t exactly have big corps. Let’s face it, our medium-small town in Italy has 100 more things to see. Let’s just say that this one has a very nice, very colorful architectural difference. We really liked this thing. This medieval part we saw is very pretty, it’s worth a visit, eh, because it gives them—I don’t want to say no, but I don’t know. One constant we have in these cities is that in the end these floors are very similar. Many of the buildings remain in our memory because they’re impossible to get to by bike, and in any case, all the structures, churches, or other historic parts, very few frescoes have been painted over, so they lose a bit of their timeless charm. Now, I’m not saying they should be frescoed now, but Italy, I repeat, a tiny church in a village is 100 times better. That’s my opinion. Absolutely. It’s leaving me with a bit of the same feeling that the four stones leave you with. It’s not that they’re bad places, but I saw 1 2 3 4. After a while, you say, “Ah, how beautiful!” But the feeling of the same four that are more or less always the same. Well done. I’m glad you understood what my discomfort was for these years. Anyway, for those who are passionate about museums, perhaps delve deeper into the inside of the churches, because many churches can be visited, and I repeat, even the palaces— each palace has a history. We’ve seen guides, groups standing around for hours explaining each building. We’re not that kind of traveler, after all. Okay, they explain the building to you, there’s a little statue that’s so tall, I say no because that dates back to my no, I wouldn’t remember it anyway. But if you want to delve deeper, there are guides; if you want to go inside, there are museums that are more or less average in size. You can easily have a classic weekend in a European city even in winter, and I think around Christmas the markets might attract a bit more people. We’re also very close to Helsinki, which is right across the street. We’re not on the sea right now because the entire port of Tallinn is on the sea, and I don’t know, but it’s just a few kilometers to Helsinki; you just need to take a ferry and you’re there. But there’s a ferry that also goes to Stockholm, which is 80 km away as the crow flies, maybe less, so you’re also close to other points, let’s say, reachable. So someone who maybe wants to take a tour of the countryside and then get to the other side, cross the border, then go down to the beautiful part. A nice tour. I’d say that at this point, since we haven’t been able to find a cappuccino that doesn’t cost €4.50, I want a coffee somewhere. I have to go, we’ll go back to the campers. [Music] Eh, I always ask for a friend, but somewhere between 30°C and a deluge. [Music] Help! [Music] There’s a river. There it is, look at that car, its wheels are already halfway down. It looks like the rain stopped for a moment. It starts again here. The water that has formed is flowing down to form a river. The beach would practically be down there, maybe tomorrow. [Music ]
Entrare in Russia è una pazzia?
Vi spieghiamo cosa serve per passare la frontiera con un camper.
Visitiamo anche Tallinn ma prima restiamo terrorizzati in un bosco a causa di rumori strani…
00:00 In questa puntata
01:12 Lago dei Ciudi
03:25 Narva confine Russia
06:56 Cosa serve per andare in RUSSIA
15:00 Nei boschi con le alci
22:26 Campeggio Estonia
23:30 Assaggiamo pesci strani
26:55 Tallinn
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35 Comments
Dovete cambiare le pastiglie dei freni ! Stanno fischiando !!
Saluti da Marbella. Vi fischiano le orecchie?? Vi stiamo pensando ❤❤❤❤ besitos
Ciao carissimi che bei ricordi che ho di Tallin bellissima città😊
Auguri!!
il pesce essiccato e da veri intenditori peccato che qua in italia non lo fanno piu nessuno, forse qualche vecchio marinaio
😂😂😂❤❤
Che paura le alci😂😂
Andate a Narnia!😂
E niente,siete i numeri uno…Mauri quasi 2!🤣🤣🤗😘
Il pesce seco selato va mangiato con una birra così dette tarranca
Шпроты(shproty) è spratto
Luoghi spettacolari, grazie per averli condivisi. A me piacerebbe andare a San Pietroburgo e visitare di persona luoghi meravigliosi.
Ciaooo ragazzi!!!! Mi sarebbe davvero tanto piaciuto vedere San Pietroburgo attraverso voi ❤un vero peccato che ancora oggi esistono queste restrizioni per queste folli guerre. Ovvio che quasi nulla può essere paragonato alla nostra ricca d'arte Italia, comunque quello che mostrate è davvero bello.
Una MEDAGLIA al CORAGGIO ad entrambi per aver dormito in quel bosco 😅💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Un abbraccio al prossimo video ❤😘
❤❤❤
Ho scoperto di avere una cosa in comune con Maury… ci piace il Franciacorta !!!! 😉
Eravamo a Tallin a metà giugno. Se salivi ancora un po' e gustavi un caffè al Maiden Tower Museum Caffè saresti stato ricompensato della faticosa salita da una fantastica vista.
Se hai tempo guarda Fabry Rock che entra in moto in Russia.
Ci gustiamo molto i Vostri video. Bravi.
No non andro in Russia sarà anche bella ma non mi interessa di vederla neanche in cartolina!
Figuriamoci se Google e compagnia cantante Occidentale non vi spaventa dall'entrare in Russia 🙂
Che paura le Alici, non le Alci..😂
Avete fatto bene. Io in Russia ci sono stato a fine anni 90 e San Pietroburgo mi è restata nel cuore.
Mosca pure. Nn a non è soltanto quelle due città.. la Russia ha u a storia millenaria. Vi i invidio piacevolmente tantissimo ❤
Adesso ho capito. Non ci siete andati. Mo spiace. Spero u. Giorno riusciate perché è una nazione interessante…. molto ricca di stravaganze e storia
Io vi lancio una destinazione.. perché non in Norvegia? I fiordi non vi attirano?
Uuuh il pesce essiccato. Altamente proteico.. buonissimo
Che paura le Alci urlatrici! È sempre un piacere seguirvi
Eh ma che Bella Tallinn
Helsinki. Altra città che ho visto. Meriterebbe la vostra visita 😂
La Russia è un paese in guerra, meglio starne fuori un mio parere , magari quando finirá la guerra se finirà
sempre molto interessante, non deve essere molto simpatico dormire nella foresta da soli
Sentite il buz Lu e ' andato in moto lo trovate su YouTube ❤
Dai Marina ndem in russia daiiiii!
Non è che la ringa va rinvenuta come il baccalà?
Bei posti ma soprattutto bravi voi ve invidie …..saluti da Susegana
E sempre l'europa che blocca non vonno che si va in russia la russia e spettacolare
CHE PAURA le ALCI
Ciao Marina e Maurizio, purtroppo mi sono perso la chat di mercoledì ahimè