Markgräflerland: Genuss zwischen Schwarzwald und Vogesen 4K | ARD Reisen

Markgräflerland: Genuss zwischen Schwarzwald und Vogesen 4K | ARD Reisen

(Music: “Con Me” by Martin Probst) If you go around the corner now, you can still see the Kaiserstuhl. (Honks) (Music fades away.) Well, Staufen may be small on the map. But in terms of quality of life, Staufen is right at the top. Here, Baden meets French cuisine, meets Swiss influences. And above all, Staufen is the perfect start to my trip. Dolce Vita in the Markgräflerland. (Paolo Conte: “Via Con Me”) Small streams, a historic old town. Staufen is a picture-perfect town. And the gateway to the Markgräflerland. A must-see. First time in Staufen? – No. Repeat theater. Repeat theater? – Mhm. Rhetorical question: Why? Quiet. You know your way around a bit. It’s beautiful in the Markgräflerland, quite simply. It really is beautiful, isn’t it? ♪ It’s wonderful, it’s wonderful. Oh God, it’s so cute. Morning, hello. Hello. This market square is so cute, it’s unbelievable. The Tuscany of Germany is called the Markgräflerland. I already feel like I’m on vacation. But one thing is still missing. And of course, I need the right Italian companion. Klaus, hello, Johannes. – Johannes, hello. Oh, that’s really beautiful, this red baby here. Yes, very traditional red. – That needs to be explained right away. Klaus rents out… Vespas or Vespas, how do you say them? Vespas. – Vespas. In the Markgräflerland. And I can drive this red gem for a week? Yes, of course. Just imagine, it has a small engine, because I’m not allowed to do anything else. It has a small engine with 50 cc and three horsepower due to my lack of a driver’s license. Yes, it goes up to 45 km/h, but I’d say that’s enough for the Markgräflerland. I’m assuming you’ll be driving on back roads, you’ll be very, very comfortable. And in this way you get to know the Markgräflerland in a different way. I always find it so beautiful. I’ve seen it from afar. And I don’t know why that is. You see a Vespa, you see the bright red color. It does something to you. It’s more than just a vehicle, isn’t it? It’s a way of life, it’s an attitude. I’d maybe do a short ride to make sure nothing goes wrong. Ah yes, look. That’s fine too. So, sorry. And what do the Italians do? They’d really put the pedal to the metal now, wouldn’t they? (Groaning) Will you let me out on the road? Definitely. – Definitely. You’ll come for a ride with me, won’t you? Yes. So, the Vespa is ready, and a really beautiful route lies ahead of us. (Carefree music) Today is all about the Dolce Vita. We’re traveling in the southwesternmost tip of Germany, the Markgräflerland region. Picnic on the Castellberg with Michelin-starred chef Douce Steiner. Go treasure hunting in Heitersheim with truffle dog Luna. Bake Baden-style pizza in Bamlach. And we cruise on vintage Vespas to the ancient Romans in Badenweiler. And in Müllheim’s most beautiful flower field, we learn why Chasselas are sacred to the people of Markgräflerland. Markgräflerland, here we come! (Relaxed, carefree music) Why is the Vespa such a perfect means of transportation for the Markgräflerland region? The Markgräflerland region is a bit hilly. Depending on where you’re traveling, you’ll have beautiful views across toward the Vosges Mountains. And because of the configuration here with the secondary roads, there’s not much car traffic, so you can just enjoy yourself. To this place or to that place? – You to this place. My dear Klaus, thank you very, very much, okay? Take care. Arrivederci Klaus, we’ll see you later. For now, I’m headed to a place where enjoyment is paramount: Sulzburg. Here, there are vineyards and a picturesque little town. and the “Hirschen.” An institution in the Markgräflerland, the realm of Douce Steiner. Do you still have the magnolias? (Inaudible) And where are they? Germany’s first two-star female chef. Douce’s father was also a star chef. (Slow music) And the “Hirschen” is a family business through and through. Her husband and daughter are also in the kitchen. She says: “I love cooking.” And you can see it, taste it, and feel it. (Lively music) (Music becomes leisurely.) And I’m lucky that Douce also loves riding her Vespa. Just like her daughter Justine. Well? – Hello. Thanks for the time. Yes, of course, I’m looking forward to it. Johannes, hi. – Hi, Douce, hello. Justine, nice to have you here. Hello. That means we’re going to see your most beautiful places together today. That’s right. And you brought something to eat. Yes, that’s part of it. Look, I cleared out here especially. Cool. We can put everything in there. (Waiting music, quiet conversation) (Music becomes more dynamic.) Working, right? Are you guys okay? – Yes. Okay, great. (Lighthearted music) We’ll eat later. Because first, Douce wants to show me one of her very special favorite places in Sulzburg. It’s just around the corner. A place full of memories. And why are we here now? Why this place? Well, I think it’s an incredibly beautiful, calming place. St. Cyriak’s, a 1,000-year-old church, one of the oldest in Germany. But I’m also connected to a lot of history here, family stories. So, which direction is it going? Could be a wedding, a baptism… Yes, a wedding too, but first there was a really nice letter in the offertory box , and the priest came to my father and delivered the letter. And it said: “Steiner cooks so well, he’s supposed to live to be 100.” That’s really nice. And we hung it up like that in our restaurant, too. Yes, and the second story is, my husband and I got married here. But I think the church also has something totally modern about it. There aren’t stone benches everywhere here; you have the chairs here, you can sit anywhere. Yes, it’s also incredibly beautifully restored, so simple. It’s not so pompous, which I like. I think it seems approachable. (Emotional, mystical music) A little bit mystical somehow. Yes, it has something. – Yes, it has something. (Emotional, mystical music) (Loud Vespa roar) (Lighthearted music) To reach their next favorite spot, it’s a steep climb, right into the vineyards. And the Vespas must be puffing hard. Up to the Castellberg. Whether by Vespa or on foot, the climb is definitely worth it. What a beautiful view this is! (Cheerful music) Great. Perfect. But the view keeps getting better up here. Yes, just wait until we get there. (He groans.) Look, this is what’s left of our lemon balm. We were actually planning to collect some more herbs, but there aren’t that many left now, are there? No. They mowed everything here. But the herbs are almost over now, they’ll come back in the fall, the wild herbs. If you look at different places, it’s just lemon balm now. But you know what’s cool? You can still smell it. Is it still like that? Oh yes, but it has a good aroma, doesn’t it? Yes. But it’s not nice anymore, you can see that. But you actually do that, right? So, for the star cuisine, that you drive out here and then … Yes, we have many different places, including here, some of which are really lush meadows, where we have wild sorrel, then… But we also have a lot of nettles from the forest. Nettles, wood sorrel… And do they make it onto the menu, too, so to speak? They make it. At the moment we have wild herb ravioli marinated with wild herbs, and elderflower foam. And above all, you have a sensational view here, don’t you think? Exactly, it’s really fantastic. It’s… Up there is the Black Forest. Yes. – Right? Then we have the whole of Markgräflerland here, then back there is Müllheim and so on, then comes the Rhine plain… That back there, right? Yes, practically the whole plain up to the next mountains there, those are the Vosges. Ah, back there, okay. – So France over there. Yes, and then it goes all the way over there, and if you go around the corner, you can see the Kaiserstuhl, Breisgau. And the nice thing about this place is that it’s… different every day. So, even in the rain, it can be exciting here. I believe that when things get a bit more mystical, when the clouds gather, it gets foggy, right? You’ve been the only two-star chef for a decade now. Is that something you… Is that an issue for you? Or… – No, not really. Mm. Well, for me, what I do is my passion. I always say that I live what I do. I love to eat, I enjoy good wine, I enjoy culture, music, art. These are all things that inspire me enormously, and I grew up around it, just like with star cuisine. My dad was also a star chef. Yes, and we always went out to eat a lot, I’ve never had a bad meal in my life. And I think it’s the same with her. You’ve been abroad too in the last few years, right? What have you been doing? I also trained as a chef at home. Then I spent a year in Spain, Belgium, and a bit in Stockholm, and now I’ve been back home for a year and a half or so. And now I do the cooking in the morning, waitressing in the evening, and now a bit of wine, maybe even sommelier training. Exactly, that’s how it just came about. When I have a picnic, it looks exactly like this, exactly like this. Yes, wonderful, then enjoy your meal. Yes, I wish you the same. Do you ever go on picnics as a family, or do we just do it for the TV? We used to do that a lot. But on Sundays we always have breakfast in a similar size. – Yes? When all the guests have left, we all sit together. Great, so the team is there, not just the family. For you, team is practically family too, right? Yes, we are a big family. Because you’re a really good team, aren’t you? Totally, it’s a privilege, I enjoy it too. But it’s always been the case with us: we all communicate very openly with each other; I think that’s the most important thing. But that’s also interesting; after all your time abroad, you still said you’d come back to the Markgräflerland. – Yes. You could have stayed somewhere in Spain. But something drew me back, and now I enjoy the freedom to say, here I can do what I want, that we as a family can be creative, with visions, and bring our own thing to the table. That’s always been inside me, too, yes. You never know what will happen in life. But yes, I love it the way it is right now. May I introduce: Yes, sir, that’s great. Luna, the super-sleuth, in search of black gold. (Music: “Azzurro” by Adriano Celentano) And search! Yes, sir, that’s great. Search, search, search! Great! Is the door already being rung? – No, no. Luna is already here, watching and doing. Yes, yes, she’s busy searching. But how is that? Truffles are fungi, right? Truffles are fungi. Okay. And why are they growing here exactly? I can grow a hazelnut tree at home, but they don’t produce truffles. No, but these are special hazelnut trees; they were inoculated with truffle spores and grown, and we bought them as tiny plants from someone who does it professionally, and then planted this plantation. And can anyone buy an inoculated hazelnut tree at home and then have truffles at home? Yes, but then you’d need a truffle dog. Otherwise, you won’t find the truffles. Luni! – I wasn’t aware that the Markgräflerland region was also a truffle region. Is it the soil or the climate? Why is that? – Both, actually. So, the climate here is perfect; the wine-growing climate is great for truffle cultivation. And then the soils, they have to be limestone, and these loess soils that we have here in the region, actually here all along the Rhine Valley, especially, are ideal for growing truffles. How many trees do you have here now? About 600. And how many truffles come from them? That’s really hard to describe. Not large quantities. – Okay. Just enough so we could offer it to Straussi. Search, search, search. Great. Fine little mouse. Okay. – Yes, sir. Yes , search, search, search. Show him. Yes, how beautiful. Show me. Yes. Yes, go on. Sometimes she digs it up… No. Ah-ah. Out! – What? Oh. No, a truffle. Oh! Hey! You rascal. You little cheeky guy. Yes, you deserve it. Well done. – What’s for dinner now? Now we’re having liverwurst from a tube. Well, it was worth it after all. Mom, would you like to do that? Because I don’t want to ruin it now. Come here, Luni. You’ve done it so finely. You have to remove a bit of the soil around it. And it’s still hanging a bit on the root here. Well done. – Yes, look. There’s still a lot of dirt there. – Mhm. Yes, it’s nice, is n’t it? You can see where the root was practically running through there, right? Well, it couldn’t be fresher, could it? – Show me. It’s all in a similar place now. That’s why we like to linger. Because sometimes there’s more. This one has maybe about 15 to 20 grams. Mhm, yes. You could make a nice portion of pasta with that. So I still need… – 20 grams is good. If we’re inviting a large group of friends, it’s not enough. But it’s still delicious. But it also has its price. A 20-gram bulb of Burgundy truffle costs between six and 24 euros, depending on the quality and season. (Leisurely tripping piano music) You’ve found one. What happened? – No dog. Found a truffle. I’m just thinking… You’ve found the biggest truffle of all? Yes, exactly. – Nonsense. Yes, indeed. Look. Great, isn’t it? You just told me I need a four-legged friend. And apparently a two-legged friend is enough for me. Exactly. – Oh, it’s gigantic. That’s a big beast here. Great. I don’t even dare to ask, but theoretically, could you cut into it? Is that possible? – Yes, of course. So, there’s a spot that doesn’t look quite so good, but we’ll carefully see what comes out. Oh yes. So, you can see… It’s beautifully marbled, still very light at the moment. Later on, it will simply be darker. Exactly. It can then become coffee-colored. Later in the season, they automatically become darker and also more aromatic. Darker means more aromatic? – It’s usually related. Oh yes. Oh God, that’s much more intense than before. Definitely. Definitely, right? Can I do it again? – Yes, yes, of course. If it doesn’t cost anything, I’ll do it. Biting into it won’t do any good. But that nutty, mushroomy, earthy flavor is already coming out quite well. You did a really good job. Yes, sir, brilliant, mouse. A heroine. – Great. No, no… – That’s going to be… Little gourmet. – Liverwurst. Little gourmet. (Cozy music) And of course I also picked up a little something, a little gift for my next date. For Susi. (Peaceful guitar music) In her little bakehouse in Bamlach, Susi is baking an ancient Markgräfler specialty. What’s up, are you helping out, or? – Oh yes, of course. Are you happy, is it hot enough? Very hot. – Very hot. Now we have to clean up. Good. I’ll leave this one at the front? – Leave that. So that I look professional too. Look at this. Like this. – First this one . Yes, this one. Very slowly, gently, gently, gently. With feeling. Like this. Now I can use oil, right? – Now oil, yes. How does that work… – First we make a few holes. Otherwise the oil won’t stay in. What we’re doing right now, vacationers can do at your place. How often do these courses take place, how do I get in? If you sign up, from five. We don’t just do Scharwaie? – No. But? – Bread. I don’t learn it anymore, right? Schar-wai-e. Schar-wai-e. In these courses… Oh, because of my head. But in these courses there’s not just that. But as desired. – As desired, okay. So, and now comes this. Caraway and salt. Look, is that enough? Is that enough? Very nice. Almost a bit much. But it’s okay. Is it too much? You can eat it. (Laughter) Will do. Will do. So. – So, now aim. Not too far back. Middle. Here? – Yes. Go ahead. Ah, great. – Excellent. Ouch! I forgot it was so hot. Man, hey! I forgot. I had someone show me how to turn a pizza. Then it turned. (Laughter) Let’s go in. Perfect. Wait a minute. Okay. Oh… Look how nicely it’s steaming. The steam. And how the oil is still sizzling. And now I’m putting the attention, attention… Here, here, here. – What? Oh, right. So. The Markgräflerland, what makes it special? Why should you come here? We are the Tuscany of Germany. Yes! But I’ve read that. Isn’t that totally overused? No. No. No. I didn’t even dare say that. If you watch the weather forecast on TV, we usually have four or five degrees more than other regions in Germany. That’s really true. – That’s really true. That means Markgräflerland, Dolce Vita, that fits together. I was told you mustn’t under any circumstances say this is Tuscany. It’s so trite, they don’t want to hear it. You can say it with pride. Good. That aroma in the air. It smells so good. You have to take a look at it. Can we show you this for a moment? How sensational it looks. It’s a bit like focaccia, doesn’t it? With the oil coming out. Exactly. Push. And now on, on, on, on. And… (Relaxed music) Super. Super. (Applause) Super. (Relaxed music) So. Now the serrated knife. Because for me, I have to say, when I see something like that, when it’s baked so beautifully and a little crispy, it’s such an erotic thing for me. – Yes? Really. I think it’s great. It’s so great. We have to show it here now. (Relaxed music) So… – That’s delicious, isn’t it? (Child:) Hot, Grandma? – It’s hot, yes. The first piece gets… Frederik. – Frederik. How is it? – Did Grandma make it well? Does it taste good? Yes? We still have to test it. He’s busy enjoying it. You can’t talk much. When you enjoy it, you’re… So. – Great. Thank you for this baking course. I have something. Wait a minute. (Happy music) I brought truffle butter. – Wow. (Happy music, conversation in the background) Excellent. You make it really well, right? – Yes, yes. What I wanted to ask… It’s good, isn’t it? Look. What I wanted to ask: Where does the name actually come from? Scharwaie? – Yes, Scharwaie. Because it was scraped together. The rest of the dough was simply scraped together. And then at some point there was a flatbread like that. People must have liked it at some point and kept making it. It’s so brilliant because the ingredients are so simple. You have oil, you have salt, and yet it still tastes so good. Are you happy over there? Yes? (Lighthearted music) (Music ends.) Oh. My colleagues should be here any minute. (Vespa humming) I can hear it rattling behind me. Hello! Hello, hey. – Good day, good day! May I introduce the Vespa Club from Freiburg. Everything OK? Oh, there are a lot of them. Good day. Hello there. Good day. Hello. Hello. Day. Hello. (Rattling) (calls out:) Finally not alone anymore! (Relaxed music) The Vespa Club Freiburg is taking me on a ride through the Markgräflerland. (Rattling, squeaking honking) First break at the fountain in Britzingen. Oi, oi, oi. Say! Pull, wait a minute. Oh, it’s heavy! So, wait… Oh, thank you so much. – No problem. Thank you so much. Where’s the boss? Up there. Hello, hi. (He groans.) Andreas, hello. – Hi, Johannes. Hello. It was so great when you came rattling up behind me. And I have to say one thing right away: it’s so much nicer riding with a group like this than alone. Yes, we’re out with about 20 people today. But the club is bigger, isn’t it? – Yes, we have 100 members. This is a real outfit here. Show yourself, please. Look, yes, yes, yes. You’re the board member, right? I’m the board member, the president, so to speak. There are several of us on the board, but I’m the president. And I got one from Klaus here. Is this the beginner’s version? This is definitely the beginner’s version if you have little experience on motorcycles. And if you only have a car license, you can drive wonderfully through the country and through the city. A little slower than us, but also beautiful. Where’s Klaus? Not a scratch yet, Klaus, did you see? Looks like new. – But it could still change. You’ve got some really nice old bikes with you. Who has the nicest Vespa? – (several:) Me! (Laughter) All right. All right. That one is really great. (Relaxed music) Even if, or perhaps precisely because, they’re all a few decades old, or should we say, have saddles, these old scooters are great. And the sound! Mine doesn’t rattle at all. – No. Why is that? (Laughter) What? Is that such a stupid question? You have no power, no mixture. What? – You have two strokes too many. Four-strokes. Okay, you have two-strokes, and I have a four-stroke. But if it has to rattle, or is supposed to, it’s a two-stroke. Then it’s a two-stroke. The way it looks, it’s a two-stroke, right? Yes. The goal is to try to keep everything original as much as possible. Yes, it’s between restoration and painting, and currently it’s fashionable to keep things original as best as possible to preserve their value. What would you say are the highlight tours you’ve done so far? My personal wish was my blue Vespa in front of the Pisa Tower. And then taking a photo with my phone, that was my highlight. (Music: “Con Me” by Martin Probst) Andiamo! Or as the Italians say, we’re roaring on to a destination that the ancient Romans loved. Badenweiler, our next pit stop. Parked nicely at the entrance here. It’s convenient that a dry, warm spot awaits us here. You always walk through here in your bathrobe, right? The Roman bath ruins in Badenweiler. That must have been such a beautiful, chic thermal spa back then. The Romans knew how beautiful it was back then. That’s a really great excursion tip. Especially when the weather is so bad, Badenweiler, it’s worth it. For one thing, there’s a beautiful, modern thermal spa here you can visit. And it’s actually one of the most important Roman monuments so well preserved in all of Baden-Württemberg. (Relaxed music) (Roaring engines) Yes, the weather isn’t quite Dolce Vita after all! Despite the downpour, the Freiburg Vespa Club is determined to show me a real gem. A destination high above the Markgräflerland: Bürgeln Castle. The amazing view you promised me. The view is fantastic! You can imagine the Vosges Mountains behind the clouds, and Basel is up ahead. Over here on the side? – Exactly. But it opens up a bit, you see, back there. Where? – Back there. Oh, right, back there. That’s what they call the sun, back there. (Cheers) (Music: “Con Me” by Martin Probst) (Music ends.) That’s exactly how I imagined it. Rhine Valley on the left, Black Forest on the right, and in the middle the Markgräflerland. (Reverent music) I’m heading towards Kandern. Where a true multi-talent lives and works. A master of fine art. Sculptor. Restaurateur. And somehow also a bon vivant. And motorcyclist with a few more horsepower under his butt than me. (Relaxed music) Konrad Winzer. I don’t really know how to describe you, Konrad. Do I say sculptor, do I say restaurateur? Well, first and foremost a sculptor. Yes. That would be reasonable. That wouldn’t be bad; I studied art for 14 semesters in Stuttgart. That’s my main job. But of course, this is a sensational place, isn’t it? Yes. So, we’re right there in the Markgräflerland. Right between Müllheim and Basel. There’s a beautiful view. It’s like this with me—it won’t surprise you— I didn’t study art history. Can you explain and bring your art closer to me using one of your sculptures as an example ? What makes it special? Maybe, I don’t know, one of the big ones or something? Is that a stupid question? – No, not at all. So, it’s always about human existence. Yes. – Those are three blocks. That’s 30,000 kilos, so, 30 tons. Romanian limestone. And there I dealt with the topic from the Old Testament, the seven deadly sins, right? Mhm. So, here we have greed, envy, pride, and gluttony in architecture . Here we have lust and sloth of the heart. And here we have murder and anger, right? And these three blocks took ten years. I carved them in ten years. A decade? – Yes, a decade. Wow… – A decade. And all of this, of course, not with compressed air, but always with hammer and chisel. She gets her energy supply from me. I’m fine, my bones don’t hurt, I don’t have gout, I’m in top shape. You’re not vain in that regard either, I can tell you. You can think at home, how old is this man? Think for a moment, one, two, three. I would have guessed younger, you’re 70. 70, yes. I would have thought minus five, I would have thought. Please. I’m 29 too, of course. Are you tired of seeing this kind of thing, or do you sometimes wake up in the morning and think, it’s pretty nice where I live, isn’t it? No, I also have to say, the appreciation of the place up there. I’ve lived up there for 40 years now, and my father said, when I bought the house back then, it had all collapsed, well, it really was simply worthless. Then I say, dear father, you can’t buy that with money. Yes? And the rubbish dump back there, the architectural one, I’ll get that under control over the years. Like an old construction hog, and it took over seven years to build until it was finally finished. He saw it before he died and said, you were right, this is a place, it’s priceless. That’s really important. That’s beautiful. Konrad Winzer, sculptor and an old construction hog. And an old construction hog. Really good. Really good. (laughs) Old construction hog, exactly. (Upbeat music) When you think about the things I’ve already built, it is… (Upbeat music) And this is your studio when the weather is bad? This is the studio when the weather is bad, yes. When it’s raining outside, this is where I work. Is wood the choice at the moment? Wood is my working material now, and I’m glad that I’ve evolved to this softer material now that I’m older . And it’s simply not quite as strenuous as the hard rockfall. Why do we need a kitchen in the studio? That’s great. Yes, every now and then I cook for my friends here or for small groups, just to keep up the training. And it’s a nice complement to the sculpture. Cooking is a creative thing, and in that respect, it suits me very well. (Grinding noises) Enjoyment, that’s a theme for you too, isn’t it? I mean, when I look around here, everything is a lot of attention to detail. Enjoyment… – Lots of love for beautiful things. Enjoyment is very important in life. If you don’t enjoy it, you’re inedible. (Coffee machine whirring) Ah… dark chocolate. – Yes, that’s exactly what it smells like. And for me, an espresso should never have too much acidity, but a mild melt. And above all, a top-notch crema. That’s exactly how it is. – Salute. Salute. (Lighthearted music) My last stop: Müllheim, right in the heart of the Markgräflerland. And here I even discover a tiny piece of real Italy. (Cheerful mandolin music) This is how love is born. Hello, hi. Hello. – Hi. Hello. Hello. Hi, Johannes, greetings. I was just walking past here, took a look in and thought, wow, it looks so nice here. Is everything correct – I’ll use the informal form now – authentic Italian? Authentic, authentic. (Cheerful mandolin music) Rocco has created his own little Italian world using products from his homeland . He has lived here for many years and doesn’t want to leave. (Conversations of guests in the background) What would you say makes this region special for you? I fell in love immediately. I said, either here or Italy. Yeah, okay. Because no other region has given me that. (Relaxed music) Just a few steps away I find another fine address for the Dolce Vita, for the sweet life. Hello. Hello. – Hi, Andrea, hello. Hello, Johannes. – Hi. Johannes. Hi. Hello there. Nice to have you here. This really is the cutest chocolate shop. It’s fantastic. – Thank you very much. What I find so great when you walk into a shop like this is that you immediately get the natural smell of chocolate. – Exactly. That’s the cocoa. (Relaxed music) Andrea, today we’re making something that’s very typical for the Markgräflerland region. What are we making? We’re making Black Forest cherries today. That’s my personal specialty too. Is it standing? – It’s standing here, look. These are Black Forest cherries. And if you look at them, they don’t have a place to rest anywhere, right? Yes. Because they’re produced hanging. – And you eat them with a stick? That’s not chocolate, that’s the wooden stick, a cherry stick? Exactly, the cherry stick. And the whole cherry is inside, with the stone. So if you try it, be careful that nothing happens to you. Can I try it? – Yes, I’d like to. Absolutely. I’d love to. I would be delighted. – We’ve already agreed. Great. So, I’ll give it to you. Here you go, here’s the praline for you. And when you put it in your mouth, put it in all the way and then bite into it, and the chocolate will crack. Mmm. Then comes the kirsch, the whole cherry with the stone. Such different things happen, don’t you think? I just had to concentrate the first time I ate chocolate . So, you bite into it, then the kirsch slowly spreads and then with the chocolate… Then it all mixes, then the flavors come, a little piece of the Black Forest. – We’ll do that now. What will you do in the meantime? – I’ll supervise you. (Laughter) Yes, that’s completely fine. Deeper, deeper, deeper, very nice. Now, just dip to the surface for a bit. Yes, great. There. – Perfect. It takes a while, right? Yes, of course. I mean, every cherry praline is handmade. (Elegant, leisurely string music) In, half a stem. – In, half a stem, exactly. And then, as I said, drain well, peel off. That’s good. There. – Perfect. Yes, thank you so much for showing me that today. That was really nice. Yes, you’re doing a really great job. (Vespa humming) (Relaxed music) One thing absolutely shouldn’t be missing here in the Markgräflerland. After all, it grows everywhere here: wine. My final destination is called Blühwein. An event where flowers meet wine. Wine tasting in a flower field and flower picking included. It’s a great idea and comes from two really good friends. Hannah is a trained winemaker and runs a wine shop in Müllheim where she only sells Markgräfler wines. Malin is a slowflower gardener. So, here you go, cheers to you. – Thank you very much. Thank you. – Cheers. A warm welcome today to our first blooming wine of the year. Blooming wine is already in its third year this year. And I think it is the most wonderful thing that could have happened. It’s great that you’re here. Welcome. – Welcome. Cheers. Cheers. Cheers. – Cheers. Thank you very much. – Very nice. Aha. Then have fun discovering. You too. Thank you very much. And now can we snip off what people want? Yes. What people actually like. I’m pretty relaxed about that. Is everything ready yet? Yes, the peonies can only be harvested when they are marshmallow-soft. I hope they just noticed that. But my God, yes, actually, which appeals to you. Slow gardening means the flowers grow in their natural rhythm. Without artificial fertilizers to speed things up or slow them down. Malin doesn’t have a shop. She sends her Slow Flowers throughout Germany by mail. Or the flower lovers come directly to the field. You get flowers in different ways, right? Yes, exactly. Actually, I only open the field for special occasions because otherwise it’s our workplace. But you can come by our flowers. You can see our field stand up ahead. You can always stop by. We try to keep it full. Otherwise, we ship the flowers. I drove past there. You have to pay on trust? – Yes. It probably works well? Yes, since I changed the cash register and teenagers aren’t stealing my flowers anymore, things are going well. Great. I’m trying to make this a bit more perfect. I think it’s pretty good. – A good start? You’ve found one of the few like it here. Good eye. Or just a bit of luck. Then I’ll wander around a bit, okay? Yes. – Thank you so much. Oh, look, that’s a lovely bouquet over there. What do you have there? Oh, look. Not bad. Where did you get those from? Yes, from over there. I haven’t gotten very far yet. Yeah, okay. Oh, look, back there too. They were successful, though. Small, but perfectly formed, and mine. (Laughter) But isn’t that cool? – Look how different. We all have the same field, and the bouquets are so different. And I experience that every time, and I celebrate it so much. (Music: “Texas Hold’em” by Beyoncé) Malin’s motto: No flower has to be perfect, each one is still beautiful. Yes, yes, yes. You’re talking more. I’ve been talking a bit too much, haven’t I? May I? – Yes, of course. Thank you. What absolutely cannot be missing at a wine tasting here in the Markgräflerland is Gutedel. Still the most important grape variety here in the Markgräflerland. And I believe, yes, for us Markgräflers, it truly is, as many say, the national drink. Only here in the Markgräflerland is it cultivated on such a large scale. It has low alcohol, a wine for many occasions, but also a delicate wine. Its aging requires a delicate touch. Why is it called Gutedel? I don’t know. Do you know? I… you tell me. What did you read? That these winemakers sat down and said: “What do we call this wine?” And then they said, like our women, good and noble. (Aggrandizing laughter) I thought that was great. Of course, no one wants to disagree. (Laughter) That must have been true. Yes, each bottle is somehow a small work of art in itself. It’s such a great privilege, I truly say, to be able to experience it together with people; that’s what makes wine so alive. And that’s why it’s such an important cultural asset. And it’s about consciously enjoying it. (Babble of voices) (Relaxed music) It’s a region; you come here if you want to treat yourself. But I also think you have to slow down a bit. You shouldn’t rush through it, you need a bit of time, and then you can have a really good time here. Thank you so much. Thank you so much. It’s great that you were there, and if you want more wine, stay tuned. My colleague Annalena Dörr is traveling to another wonderful wine region, in Rheinhessen. Wow. – Wow, look. Great, she’s doing a wine adventure tour there. They have really good wine there too, don’t they? Yes. – Well, thank you very much, look. In the Markgräflerland, they treat the other wine regions well. So stay tuned, have fun. Cheers. You were so collegial. Great. You don’t want people to say anything about us. (Laughter, relaxed music) SWR 2025

🛵☀️ Das sonnenverwöhnte Markgräflerland steht für Genuss und Lebensfreude: Johannes Zenglein ist mit Picknickkorb und Vespa unterwegs und lässt sich die Lieblingsplätze der Markgräfler zeigen. So verrät unter anderem Sterneköchin Douce Steiner ihre schönsten Plätze für ein Essen unter freiem Himmel und es geht auf Schatzsuche mit einem Trüffelhund.

Noch mehr “Expedition in die Heimat” gibt’s in der ARD Mediathek:
https://1.ard.de/reisen-expedition-in-die-heimat-rheingau?yt=d

00:00 Intro
01:34 Vespa Vermietung in Staufen
04:51 Lieblingsplätze in Sulzburg
08:41 Picknick auf dem Castellberg
13:51 Suche nach Burgundertrüffel in Heitersheim
18:43 Markgräfler Scharwaie in Bamlach
23:39 Mit dem Vespa-Club durchs Markgräflerland
28:24 Tolle Aussicht auf Schloss Bürgeln
29:29 Bildhauerei und Skulpturen in Kandern
34:33 Ein kleines Stück Italien in Müllheim
38:44 Weinprobe im Blumenfeld beim “Blühwein”
43:45 Outro

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Wir empfehlen grundsätzlich allen Reisenden sich vor Antritt der Reise gründlich über die aktuelle Sicherheitslage zu informieren: https://www.auswaertiges-amt.de/de/reiseundsicherheit

“Dolce Vita im Markgräflerland” ist ein Film von Annette Krause, Redaktion: Carmen Lustig.
Dieser Film wurde 2025 im Auftrag des SWR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.