Nafplio: The Lost First Capital of Greece

Nafplio: The Lost First Capital of Greece

[Music] From the bustling streets of Athens and the historic port of Hydra to the beaches of Zakinthos and the villages of Kitha, our journey over the farming which spans many of the Ionian islands. Some wellknown, others that few ever get to visit. But before heading off, you probably want to know a little bit about me. My story starts as a boy growing up in the inner suburbs of Sydney. Like a lot of Greeks early last century, my parents moved overseas to find a better life abroad. They arrived with very little and worked extremely hard to give my sisters and I a loving upbringing. They also made me believe that if I too worked hard enough, I could achieve anything. 54 years later, I’ve built a successful business, and that has enabled me to do things I once only dreamed of. One of those dreams was to step foot on all 227 inhabited Greek islands. And I’m going to take a big chunk out of that in this first series. So far, I’ve taken to some of the bigger and more popular gene islands in the Seronic Gulf, including Spetszus and most recently Hydra. It’s been an exciting journey. And what is special about Ida? There are no buses, no cars, no taxis, no motorbikes, no bicycles. My travels through Greece have been full of history, great food, and plenty of laughs along the way, not to mention spectacular scenery. And there’s plenty more to come. In this episode, I’m headed to Nupon, a place that’s rich in history from ancient times right up to the modern era. My plan is to tell the region story by visiting the ruins, meeting the locals, and taking in the natural wonders. You’ll be amazed at just how much this part of Greece has to offer. I’m also headed to Monasia with a side trip to Lemani Yedaka along the way. So, in the coming hour, you can expect to see a whole lot. [Music] After my short visit to Hydra, we cruised along the Pelpines coast deep into the Argolic Gulf to the seapport town of Nupleon. The journey there took us past stunning coastal scenery with dry rocky countryside giving way to a clear blue sea. The landscape seemed uninhabited with only the occasional small town, ancient ruin or glowing white church punctuating the scene and a few windmills. It gave me some time to switch off, relax, and just take in this incredible backdrop. Traveling through areas like this, you get an appreciation of how sparse much of Greece can be. Of the 11 million people living in the country, only about 2 million inhabit the Pelpineese and Aian Islands and mostly in urban areas. Out here, there’s little in the way of work. So, people have left the villages and towns that once dotted the landscape and moved to the bigger cities or more established settlements, one of which was our next destination. From Aiden, we traveled out of the Seronic Gulf into the Argalic Gulf into the northern end of the Argalic Gulf, a town called Nupleon. Nuplion was actually the first capital city of Greece post 1821 revolution. special place. Fortresses, archaeology, antiquity. It’s fantastic. Nuffoon is a beautiful town that’s long been an important settlement. Since ancient times, there have been people living here. And throughout Greece’s history, various powers have occupied it. The town story is told by this rich mix of architectural influences. From the walls of the Acronia built in pre-classical times through the era of Byzantine and Frankish rule to the arrival of the Turks in 1540 and the brief period of Venetian control, each has left their mark on this colorful town. One of the things that you’ll immediately notice is that the shopping here is fantastic. A lot of tourist towns have the same international stores and outlets that you quickly get bored of here. Though while you’ve got a patch of the usual suspects, there’s also plenty of unique local brands to arouse your interest. Nfield has some really cool shops, but the common denominator is lots of coffee shops and bars. Very Greek. Does anyone work around here? I just can’t get over the amount of people that are sitting in shops on a Tuesday afternoon. It’s a pretty relaxed lifestyle in the Greek islands, but to be honest, the majority of the people here are tourists. And who doesn’t enjoy sitting in a cafe, drinking coffee, and doing a little people watching? [Music] It’s the allseeing eye from the Greek Orthodox Church, otherwise known as the eye of providence. The allseeing eye of God is a religious symbol adopted by various faiths the world over. You find it in places of worship, in art, and even on the US $1 bill. It represents the idea that God is watching over humanity. And in a deeply religious place like Greece, you’ll find this and other church icons on everything from clothing and decor to jewelry. Speaking of jewelry, this place has plenty of options. I might have to buy something for Helen. Actually, I’ve learned over the years that I should leave that stuff to her. My taste is just a little different. Naflon is known for its koboy shops. It’s actually got a koboy museum and koboy in English is a worry be. Um, we might have a look at some. This is a bone one. Show me how you do it. Yes. Concentrate. Yes. Another way. Ah, that’s the way I see. That’s the way I do it with the cafe. You keep tight. Tight this part from inside and you turn it like this. I’ll get there. Exactly. You need You need practice. I don’t know. artist. You’re you’re very good at it. I know it’s my job. Worry beads are made of everything from plastic and coral through to gem quality amber. They range in price from €5 to more than 500 with the more expensive ones being a symbol of power or prestige. They also look similar to prayer beads from other cultures, but they actually have no religious purpose. Most people use them for relaxation or to help with concentration. So, I might buy a stack of them for friends and family. Apparently, I have a tendency to cause anxiety in the people around me. Hard to believe, I know. I think I’m quite a relaxed guy. I’m here on the uh northwestern corner of Balami’s Fortress. It’s 999 steps to get up here. The place is absolutely massive. There’s fortifications wherever you look. I got to move on. [Music] Balidi’s fortress was actually built in the early 1700s by the Venetians. It was built between sort of 1711 and 1714. And just as they were completing it, the Ottomans invaded and took Balamius in 1715. And you can actually see where the Ottomans added to the fortifications. The lower bit is the Venetians and that higher bit which is more Roman. And you can see those turrets very Ottoman. Balami fortress overlooks the town and is a dominant feature on the skyline. For those living below, looking up at that heavy fortification would have given them a sense of protection. It would have been an imposing sight for any invading force. This place is amazing. Wherever you walk, there’s walls and some bloody high ones, too. There are eight bastions in Balamidus. We’re going to go have a look at one of the good ones. But here in front of me, you can see the winged line. It’s the wing line of Venice. This tells you it’s Venetian. You’ll see a lot of those in St. Martin Square in Venice. [Music] This is the AOS Andreas Bastion named by the Greeks. Had a different name for the Turks and a different name for the Venetians and for all eight bastions for that matter. But this is where Kolocronius, the great Greek general, the savior of the 1821 revolution, was jailed for several years. Very solemn place. Ranked amongst the most prominent figures in Greece’s war of independence, General Filodoros Kolocronis led the Greek forces in the Pelpine. While admirals Molia and Bouina were engaged in naval conflicts further down the coast, Kolotronis rallied the people behind him and formed an army from local mountain folk and militia. The Turks had possession of this fort for over 100 years until 1822. In November of that year, General Stoopoulos and 350 Greek crack troops stormed Balamid’s fortress and took the Turkish garrison. And for the next 15 years, Nathlon was the capital of Greece. [Music] You know, this is my second time to Balamius Fortress. Second time for my family as well. and they want to come again because by lame this fortress you don’t have to be a historian. You don’t have to love Greece, Venice or Turkey for that matter. There’s something for everybody here. It’s a kids playground. My son has been climbing the walls and playing around. If you like walking, it’s just good for a walk and it’s a photographers’s paradise. I love this place. Place like Balami survive as visual reminders of times gone by. But it’s the responsibility of people like you and I to tell younger generations what happened here and the stories of the great people that have walked inside these walls. It’s through sharing this knowledge that we show appreciation for our forebears and keep their memory alive. Apart from its history, Napleon and its inland fertile plants are well known for their agriculture, specifically the oranges. They say they’re the best in Greece. This calls for a Greek orange pie, a portoopita. Now that’s a mouthful. [Music] We have these beautiful nut oranges. Now, they don’t look like they’ve been bought from a shop. No. And what do we got over here? This is fil pastry. But it looks like you’ve left it out there for a little while to dry up and it’s nice and crunchy. So, we need that stuff. Okay. Messa. Everything’s going inside. Nancy, they’re very sweet apparently at the moment because this is the time for oranges. After adding a couple of sliced whole oranges, we put 750 g of sugar, 250 mil of olive oil, a teaspoon of baking soda, some milk, and four eggs into the blender. You can tell by his girth that Kiryaku is a man that loves his food. He’s an amazing chef and half the reason why every time I leave Greece, I’m 10 kilos overweight. You know what’s amazing, Kiryako? Whenever we cook this stuff, my wife Helen never comes. I was expecting her to learn something from this, but she’s out shopping. Wow. I can see Rhett is licking his lips over there. Our engineer. Will there be enough for you, Rhett? I don’t know. I don’t think so. Fantastic. Look at that. Look at the color. Look at the texture. This is it. This is simple. Very simple. Yeah, very quick. So, if you had to make it quickly, this is a perfect pie to make or a sweet pie. Look at Look at You can see the orange peel in there. It’s fantastic. We’re going to put that in the oven now at 160° for half an hour, 30 minutes. The syrup is what takes this delicacy to the next level. It’s basically just 750 g of sugar dissolved in water and boiled to reduce a little. Then you simply add a bit of fresh orange juice. Five orange juice. So, we’re going to let that boil. Now, we brought the temperature down. Now, I’m going to bring the temperature back up so that it boils. Very quickly. Very quickly. You better come in and have a look. Wow, that looks awesome. That’s ready. So, he’s turned the heat down now. Now, that’s got to cool. 30 minutes later. And voila. Or as Greeks would say, So, the syrup has cooled down now and we’re going to put it on top. The waiting game is the hardest part. It was 10 minutes of sitting in anticipation as the syrup soaked in. Mate, I’ve never seen anything like this before. [Music] Let’s have It’s It’s um soaked it all up. So, um, now we have to test it. And I know in the bleaches over there, it’s getting a bit busier now. Uh, it was Rhett originally, but now we have Captain Rhett Andy Reneeas. So, what are we going to do? Okay, good point. That looks absolutely sensational. Just put that down there. Scrap a little bit of chocolate ice cream as well. [Music] It’s not It’s not a um fandagle one. Oh, straight away. Captain’s into it. Captain’s got it. [Music] You know what this deserves? This deserves the hug. Thank you, sir. He’s done an awesome job again. Kiryako is never going to leave me. You’re going to stay with me for life. Okay. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you, Kittyako. I hope you guys are enjoying it over there. Beautiful. Very nice. Fantastic. Fantastic. Kyaku was adamant we had to use vanilla ice cream. I insisted on chocolate and judging by the response, I was right. We’ve just come up from Nafleon up to Profitis Elas which is the top of this mountain and you can see all the way through the Argala Gulf down to Argos through all these plains of the Pelpineese here this side of the Pelpineese you can see all these orange groves but 2 and a half thousand years years ago, there was this great rivalry between Argos and Sparta behind me. Right through this valley, there are several archaeological sites, tombs for kings, archaeological digs that are happening everywhere. If you look around, um it’s a treasure trove of history here. These fertile plains being between the sea and mountains made this a very strategic location, which is why it’s been a seat of power since ancient times. Greece was a fractured state during the early part of the classical period. Argos, Sparta, and Athens were all competing for dominance in the region. Then in 499 BC, the Persian war started. While much of the country began unifying against this common enemy, Argos remained neutral, consequently diminishing its influence in Greece. As time went by, other powers occupied the area. All the while, it has been somewhat of a bread basket for this country. [Music] You walk through the town of Argos and you think it’s a pretty standard Greek town. Good Greek coffee, Gudio. Awesome. Traffic’s pretty much the same as everywhere else. But Argos itself today is not what’s special about Argos. It’s what’s below and around Argos special. It’s the longest continually inhabited city in Greece and one of the top five in the world. Let’s go and have a look at what’s really special. Have a look up there right now. Having been inhabited for some 7,000 years, there are loads of sites and monuments here dating back to antiquity. Amongst countless other things, the city’s famed for having been the home of Agamemnon, who in Greek mythology led the Arcanes against the city of Troy in the Trojan War. You know the story with the big wooden horse? Well, the winners of that war came from here. The Greek uh volleyball team, the girls, they’re here to um they’re here for something. I don’t know what they’re here for, but they’re here for a s special moment. The may congratulating him because they’re here to celebrate something. I don’t know what it is. I didn’t understand a word he said to be honest with you, but he congratulated me on speaking my my Greek, even though it’s really bad. Despite the fascinating history of the area, Argos isn’t a hugely popular tourist destination, it’s a little out of the way. But if you visit Napleon and want to see an authentic Greek town, then take the short taxi ride, grab a coffee and a kuludi and pay larort a visit. We’re here in the southeastern foothills of Lisa. Primitive Argos. What you’re about to see is really special. Carved out of the s of a mountain. Take a guess what it is. [Music] Wow, this is absolutely massive. Look at the height of it. [Music] This theater held 20,000 people. It’s up there with the Aidavos. It’s probably the poor cousin of Bidavos because the Aidavor is in probably the best nick for a theater in the world. But for me, this is a special one. carved out of the mountain, covered for 1,400 years before they found it. Let’s go and have a closer look and I’ll tell you all about it. They’ve uncovered it and nothing has been done to it. This was built in 250 BC in the Hellenistic period and it was considered such a good theater that when Hadrien came around in 100 AD, he did some work on it as well. Wow. The Roman Emperor Hadrien visited the theater on many occasions. He loved it so much that amongst other things, he commissioned the building of this enormous bath complex. [Music] You know, a closer look at the theater and you realize that nature has done a job through erosion and you almost feel like covering up again for a thousand years for people in the future. In a moment of silence, I stopped to take in the view. Looking at the theater and bars, I couldn’t help but think of the countless significant people from history that would have done the same. Soaking up the atmosphere made me wonder that just maybe in a former life, I could have sat and watched a performance in this very sea. [Music] Amongst the numerous archaeological sites in the plains and hills of Argos are a number of tombs, but these are unlike most others you’ll come across in Greece. In fact, they’re so unique that despite a lot of research, little is known about them. You know, I’ve been in construction all my life, and I love wonderful structures. I’ve been really looking forward to seeing what we’re about to see. Now, if I mention pyramids, the first thing you’ll think of is Egypt. Well, many Greeks say this one predates the pyramids of Giza. It might not be as grand as theirs and to be honest is a little underwhelming in terms of its size. But what makes the pyramid of Helenon so interesting is the story behind it. Apart from the obvious idea that this was a tomb, some 20th century archaeologists believe that it could have been a place of fortification or worship. There’s lots of theories. There’s even a theory that the first battle with shields was fought around here in the Pelpeneisian Wars and before and prior to that and that this was a tomb for the soldiers that fought in that war. A lot of ideas, but no one’s really working on it. It’s bare and it’s such a wonderful structure. Sad. Maybe I might go home and start working on it myself. Like a lot of things in Greece, there’s a certain amount of myth and legend behind the stories you hear. We’re a passionate lot, and sometimes the truth gets stretched a touch, but after hundreds of years of the same story being told, we trust our archaeologists investigations, will clear up the blur created by these inspirational stories. You know, when I get home, some of my Egyptian mates, one of them is an engineer, is probably going to give me a hard time about our pyramids because their pyramids, the Egyptian pyramids, you could stick a knife in between the gaps. Ours aren’t exactly the the best structures in the world. But big difference though, they took 50 years to build theirs with 10,000 slaves. We did it in half the time with free men. Take that tarret. One of the only mentions of Greek pyramids in early writing comes from the Greek geographer. He visited the area sometime in the middle of the 2nd century AD. He mentions seeing pyramids as he passed through, not this particular one, but similar structures and that carved on the sides were reliefs that look like shields. He tells of a story that this was a sight of a great battle for the throne between two brothers. The fight ended in a draw and subsequently the pyramids were built as a tomb for the dead. Now that’s a cool story. The story of Greece has captured the imagination of scholars, historians, artists and poets since antiquity. Today, it continues to inspire and be a source of wonder for people the world over. No matter how many times I visit, I’m always left in awe of what I discover, and I’m constantly drawn back to search for more. [Music] You know, it’s not a good idea to swim in in ports. It’s dangerous first of all, but sometimes they let out a little bit of the water out of boats that you don’t really want to be swimming around. But quite often if you just travel 500 m around the corner, the water is like crystal clear and it’s beautiful. Just like here, there’s that uh little rock pool over there. Helen will be in it in about half an hour. We’ll probably miss her. One of the best things about being an early riser is that I often get to see places well before the tourists and crowds arrive. It gives you an entirely different appreciation for things and means you can move a little slower and take everything in free from distractions. The only downside is cafes are usually closed. Thankfully, I’ve got a coffee machine on the boat. [Music] Riding around the coast, you notice there isn’t a huge amount of greenery. The rocky slopes aren’t very fertile, but somehow flagosa or prickly pears have managed to make a foothold on these hillsides. It absolutely thrives in what you would think are adverse growing conditions on barren ground. But like the locals, it’s adapted perfectly to the environment. You see it growing throughout the southern Pelpineese and most islands. There are summer fruit and make for great eating and apparently they’re good for you too. However, harvesting them is a bit of a challenge. The reward is well worth the effort though and a few pin pricks. Continuing further along, I reached my destination before the first beach goers had arrived, the beautiful Avaranka Beach. Well, it’s our last day in Applon and um we’re here at the beach around the corner. You can even see a relic of the global financial crisis up there, an old hotel. But put that aside, in 2 hours from now, this place will be full of tables and chairs packed with people, music blaring, people in and out of the water like basking seals. It’s a sight to be seen. I better get in the water before they get here. Seconds after this shot, I was battling to get my shirt off. Yeah, I probably should have taken the helmet off first. Needless to say, the camera crew had a good laugh at my expense. But the joke was on then. While they were off getting the pretty pictures you’re looking at now, I was floating in the sea without a care in the world. Who’s laughing now, fellas? After a relaxing few days in Napleon, we made our way down to the coast towards Lemenihaka. This part of the Pelpineese coastline is dotted with countless beaches where crystal clear water laps on pebbled or sandy shores. A lot of them, particularly the easily accessible ones, are frequented by tourists, and in the summer months, they can get quite busy. However, there are plenty of more secluded places that take a little bit of effort to get to. Over the years, I’ve noticed the creation of an increasing amount of map trails to some of the hidden gems. The great thing about getting off the wellworn paths and exploring these short walks is that occasionally you find a strip of sand in an idealic setting that you can call your own for the day. You know what I love about Greece is the unpredictability. We’re heading down the eastern coast of the Pelpineese to get up down the road. And we found Via Lucky. It’s not even on the map, but the captain knows about it. We’re about to get in, have a swim, have some lunch, and then move on. Apart from the ancient ruins, everyone knows Greece for its beautiful warm blue waters, the vast amount of islands, and even great abundance of beaches. But what most don’t know is that despite being one of the most beautiful holiday destinations in the world, the majority of places left unexplored by tourists. The average traveler spends time in Athens and then goes to places like Mkos, Cree, Roads, Santorini, or Corfu. But head to the lesserknown loces and you’ll find a very different Greece, one that’s peaceful and traditional. a place where you can get away from it all and unwind in a setting that’s as picturesque as anything else you’ll come across on the planet. Finding these hidden delights is the fun part. Most of them aren’t on travel blogs or websites with lists of musto activities or top 10 places to visit. You need some local knowledge to find them. And yes, we don’t all have a friend that knows the far away corners of Greece, but we can all take the time to talk to people in small towns and villages we pass through and ask them what they think is the best part of their area to visit. It’s only by digging a little deeper than a guide book that you unearth the most unique gems. The water in this part of the world is generally calm. It’s a relatively protected stretch of coastline, so it makes for smooth sailing. But when it gets rough, it takes on a whole different personality, an ugly one. Our journey was taking us south along the Pelpineese peninsula from Naflion to Lemeni Yaka. I briefly visited here a few years ago and found a nice little port to spend some time in. The cove was essentially discovered by accident. It was one of those rough days where foul weather forced a fisherman to search for protection. He came across this sheltered inland and waited out the storm. And naturally, a harbor town was eventually built here. Today, it’s the gateway to the inland town of Yedaka, birthplace of the actor Telly Savalis, famed for playing Detective Kjak. If you’ve never heard of him, Google it. You’ll immediately see why some people say, “I look a bit like him.” Anyway, this place has a more important story to it. One that’s common for villages throughout Greece, particularly those in more remote areas. We’re about 5 km inland from that beautiful fjord port of Yakas. This is Yedakas town. And don’t look at it now. It is beautiful. But 50 years ago, those mountains were full of fields that were tomatoes, olive trees, lemon trees, you name it. And it was a thriving population here. The school alone had 200 children, 150 odd homes, but there’s only 40 people living there now. And mostly over the age of 60 and 70 years old. Why is that so? Everybody immigrated. They all went to America. They went to Australia. They went to Canada much like many of the villages here in Bellapon, Screasti, Bra, all these places, but it’s still a beautiful old village. Even that house up the top there, that white one with the two windows, that was the house of Telly Savalis’s father for you movie buffs. In town Christos, a born and bred local. His tale is typical of many others that come from here. When work dried up, he was forced to travel abroad to support his family. So for much of his life he’s traveled back and forth to the US. Why I go I have the family here every summer go America in Boston every December come back. So you went every year and you came back from 72 to 204. You did it for 34 years back and forth. You never saw a summer. You were in winter there and winter here. Y unbelievable. And you look like a strong man. 70 winters. 70 winters. Amazing. Many people have left here like you did, but you came back because after the the war. Yeah. After the second wall. Yes. Theory. Yes. I can do nothing over here. Yeah. No. No cars. No cars. No. No money. Everybody left. He left and died. I can’t live over here anymore. Christos is one of the very few that are still hanging on. Unfortunately, his story is not unique. It’s one that’s told over and over again throughout the villages of inland Greece and in much of Europe. The changing dynamics created by war and economics often impacts those the furthest removed from it. So quiet. All I can hear is the wind in the leaves. But this is typical of many towns, inland towns in Greece where the boys left here in the 30s, 40s, and 50s, 15 years old, 16 years old. They never came back cuz they established their homes and their families in Canada, Australia, America. It’s kind of sad. Only a handful of old people left here, but that’s life. Flag still flying though. Out here, the decisions made by politicians in the big cities can be devastating and very long-lasting. However, while the inland villages have suffered greatly, those on the coast and the islands have thrived. It’s a complete contrast to centuries ago when people lived in the hills away from the dangers of the coastal towns that were constantly under threat from pirate attack. [Music] One positive that can be drawn from it all is that places like this haven’t been impacted by outside influences. There’s no big brand stores or fast food chains. Life is more traditional than in major centers or tourist hubs, which for some is why they remain back by the water and things are very different. It’s only a short journey, but might as well be a million miles away. The setting was stunning. Fishing boats came in at the end of a day’s work and yachts set anchor for the night. There was a sense of calm in the air. And while it’s impossible to forget the hardships faced by those only a few kilome away, I had a chance to reflect and be thankful for the life I lead. After a night in Limmenaka, we kept cruising south to the stunning town of Munasia. It’s an all inspiring place that no matter how many times I see it, I’m always overwhelmed. The town and imposing fort are built on this towering rocky upcrop that sits a couple of hundred meters off the mainland. At only 1 km long and a few hundred meters wide, Monmbasia might be small, but it sure does pack a punch. From sea, land, or above, it’s an incredible sight. [Music] You know, when you come to Monvasia and see this beautiful rock, you more than likely come by car and you’ll um arrive here in the new town. New town actually has something to offer. Not only just where you stay, but it’s got some beautiful suites, awesome coffee, and some nice tiveras. Monasi is a very significant monument in Greece’s history. As a result, over the years, tourism has grown to an extent that they’ve had to build up the town’s infrastructure to support all the visitors. Unfortunately though, the financial crisis has decimated the holiday industry. Recently, the ferry service was suspended, which makes it even harder for people to get here. The flow on effect increases the issue, which is hurting the local community. However, with nearly 1500 years of history, these ups and downs aren’t new to the place. Monasier has bounced back from far worse many times before. The fortress sits perched 100 meters above the town below. The stone walls and towers have weathered through the centuries, but it remains an imposing feature on the skyline. You could imagine an invading force looking at it in fear and wonder. Down below, the streets are filled with an interesting mix of architecture spanning a thousand years or more of occupation. It’s the type of place you need a guide or a book to really get an appreciation of the history. So Effie, how old is this beautiful town of Munasia? It was first founded in around 580 AD. So you see it’s a very a very old place and it has never been abandoned until today. Is that right? So what was the population at its peak? We can’t be certain about it, but some old books say even 20,000 people. Wow. And today 20 people. Wow. 20,020. Amazing. I like the greenery in Monasia. There’s little bits of greenery everywhere, you know. Very few. Yeah. Yeah. But it’s there. It is. Yeah. Through Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman rule, the town and fortress stood. Each of the invading powers came and went, leaving their mark in the form of building designs specific to the style of the period and their tastes or needs. In amongst the narrow laneways, often hidden from view, you’ll find various examples of period architecture, much of it in fantastic condition. [Music] There’s a lot of steps here. And how far we got to go? It doesn’t matter. It’s worth it. It’s worth it for the steps. You’re on purpose. You’re not telling me how far we’ve got to go. It isn’t very far. I promise. Okay. I see there’s um ongoing repairs of the stairs here, which is good. Always. Dus is working for the archaeological service here. He has a permanent position and he’s one of the few people who know how to do things in the traditional way. Oh, so he’s been praying for this. Yes. Through work. Fantastic. The stairs are seemingly endless. I can only imagine the trials that builders went through when constructing this thing. It would have been an incredible labor cutting stones and timber up and down the slope in searing heat. Then, of course, it would have been plenty of work to maintain it through the centuries. I can’t believe we’re already here. It looks so high from down the bottom. I know. I had the same impression when I first came here, but it is much easier. 10 minutes and and we’re already in front of the gate of the upper town. And look at it. It’s just so majestic. So grand. And yet it looks like it’s the same as it was a thousand years ago. It is. It is. It is. That’s right. It’s It’s very low. They weren’t very tall people in those times, were they? I think it’s not a matter of height. It’s just how they made how they built things. Yeah. These old stone structures have a way of putting things into context. There are moments when they can make me feel a tad insignificant in terms of my time walking the earth. When I’m long gone and but a memory, these walls will likely still remain. That said, I’d like to think that a handful of the buildings I construct might well be part of the urban landscape in a thousand years from now. [Music] Wow, Effie. Quite impressive. I can see now why it’s so important to you in in your job. I I look at this massive fortification and it’s almost like they sculpted it out of rock. I see so many walls, so many fortifications, different colors. How long would it have taken to to build this magnificent piece? This was an ongoing construction. The walls are not that many. The the needs to fortify this place were limited because it has fortification on its own. I mean the rock is means there’s natural defense here. We have walls around the lower town. Some walls on this side of the upper town because the attacks were coming from the sea from there. But it was something that was happening all the time, restoring uh the damaged parts and it’s still happening today. Wow. Now I understand there’s a a wonderful church at the top here. Ayas Sopia. Yes. Can we go and have a look at it? Of course we will. Let’s go. Wow. Morel, this is absolutely magnificent. Mhm. One of the most important oldest Byzantine churches in Greece is this place, the church of Aia Sophia. It was built in the 12th century and is in amazing condition both inside and out. Wow, Effie, this is amazing. In the next episode, the journey continues as I explore more of Monasia and the inland area nearby. I’m going to learn about the past of the island and go from one of the oldest churches in Greece to one of the most historic wine growing regions in the world. For many centuries, a lot of wines from across the country would pass through the port of Monasia before reaching other parts of the Mediterranean and as far as Northern Europe. From there, I made my way to another tiny island that punches well above its weight, Elephonis. It might only be 16 km in size, but it’s a hidden paradise with a picturesque coast that rivals the prettiest places you’ll come across. As the day came to an end and the crew repositioned me as I to a more sheltered part of the island, I spent the final hours of sunlight enjoying the view. There are few places more spectacular than this. [Music] [Music]

This documentary follows a Greek host on his enormous mission to explore all 227 inhabited islands of Greece. His journey now brings him to the Peloponnese region, starting in the historic seaport of Nafplio, which was the country’s first capital after the revolution. You’ll walk through its streets and see the mix of Byzantine, Venetian, and Turkish architecture, then climb the massive Palamidi Fortress, a key stronghold built by the Venetians. The host then takes a detour to Argos, a city that has been continually lived in for thousands of years, to explore the enormous ancient theatre carved right into the mountain. The trip gets truly strange with a visit to the Pyramid of Hellenikon, a small, mysterious stone structure that some historians argue is even older than the pyramids in Egypt. The episode concludes with the journey to Monemvasia, a spectacular medieval citadel built into an unshakeable rock.

00:00 The Mission to Visit 227 Greek Islands
01:17 Nafplio: Greece’s First Capital
03:47 Nafplio’s Historic Architecture
10:56 The Ancient City of Argos
21:39 Hellenikon’s Mysterious Pyramid
29:33 Inland Greek Villages
34:42 The Fortress Town of Monemvasia
41:13 Conclusion

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