Switzerland’s Amazing Train Rides | S1E1 | Swiss Trains

(upbeat music) – Hi, I’m Jeff Wilson, and I love trains. I’ve always been fascinated with figuring out how things work, so to me trains are irresistible, the history, the variety,
the technical ingenuity. And if there’s one place that can make a rail
fan’s dreams come true, it has to be Switzerland. Join me as I crisscross a nation that seems to love trains as much as I do. (upbeat music) Why do people love trains? Is it the adrenaline rush of big machines surging against probability
of a mountainside? Is it the thrill of exploration, the way they can slice
through remote areas giving us up close views
of inaccessible landscapes? (dramatic rock music) Maybe it’s the nostalgia, the echoes of a time gone by when trains were the
lifeblood of everyday people and the station the center of every town. Or maybe we love trains
because they’re just plain fun. As an author and host of
home improvement TV shows, I’ve had lots of adventures
traveling across the US. Now, I’m looking for even more
adventure around the world. And I can think of no better
way to travel than by train. Staking out the center of Europe and chiseled in high relief
by the Alp mountain range, Switzerland seems to have it all. Sophisticated cities
and welcoming villages, glacial summits and flower strewn meadows straight from the pages of Heidi. With more than 16,000 miles of track, this country takes pride in a rail system that’s the most concentrated in Europe. The Swiss ride trains more
than any other group of people. Top that off with clean efficient cars that are rarely delayed, and
you’ve got a ticket to ride. Each year, this superbly
integrated network carries more than 350
million travelers to work, play and marvel at Switzerland’s
infinite natural wonders. Modern trains are the mainstay
of Swiss transportation, but I’m primed for maximum adventure, so I’m gonna hunt out a whole
range of transport options. Everything from pioneering cogwheels, to death defying cable cars, to historic train and
steam boat connections. (boat whistle blowing) (upbeat music) Zurich, Switzerland’s largest city, makes an excellent
launching point for my trip. Teeming with designer
boutiques and chocolate shops, Zurich feels prosperous and energetic. Neutral Switzerland avoided the bombing that demolished much of
Europe in World War II, and Zurich’s old town still
echoes its medieval days. Trams are the heart of the
cities transportation system. As far back as the 1890’s, electrified trolleys starting
shoveling Zurich’s citizens, and today, trams are still the fastest and most convenient way to get around. The great thing about Swiss trains is they can be combined
in so many different ways to create your own custom itinerary. Using several popular scenic routes as the back bone of my trip, I’ll link together some of Switzerland’s surprisingly diverse major regions. My plan is to start here in
German speaking Switzerland and hook up with some of the
country’s best scenic trains. I’ll head south to
Italian speaking Lugano, (train bell ringing) then back up north to beautiful Lucerne. I’ll travel west to French
speaking Switzerland and finish at Zermatt
and its crowning glory, the Matterhorn. A Swiss pass is a great
option for foreign visitors. It gives you unlimited travel
on trains, boats, and buses. You can also use it on many
city transportation systems, and it’ll give you access
to hundreds of museums. For a life-long rail fan like me, a train ride has always been the best way to discover new places
and to be awed by daunting landscapes mastered by sheer human will. You know when I was a kid, my dad and I built a model
train set in our garage complete with tunnels and bridges, so when I became a builder and remodeler, I came to appreciate the workmanship and the sheer inventiveness
of a well designed railway. (dramatic music) My first stop is Chur, the
oldest town in Switzerland. It’s a fusion of meandering
streets and historic buildings. The Chur rail station is the
terminus of several major national lines and a main
stop on the Rhaetian railway, which operates the country’s
famous Albula Bernina line. Several different trains run
along the Albula Bernina line. I’m on what some would
consider the most famous, the Glacier Express. The full Glacier Express
ride traverses 180 miles across Switzerland to Zermatt. But I’m taking just the first
leg from Chur to Saint Moritz. Then I’ll catch up with
it again later in my trip. (train bell ringing) The Albula Bernina line is considered a tour de force of rail engineering. Anyone captivated by trains should experience this ride
at least once in a lifetime. (dramatic music) First opened in 1904, the line took only five
years to construct. It triumphs over an abundance
of natural obstacles negotiating nine viaducts and
passing through seven tunnels. Steep ravines and gorges
are spanned with confidence by impossible seeming bridges. The celebrated Landwasser Viaduct was built without scaffolding. It’s iron underpinnings
plunged deep into the earth, while cranes set bricks
in a robust facade. Called by some the most
ingenious railway ever built, the Albula and Bernina
have been jointly honored as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the small town of Bergun,
I discover the Bahnmuseum and learn more about the determination that went into the rail construction. – The Albula line was first opened 1904. Took around four or five years to build the whole line between Chur and Preda. There were a lot of
people from Italy coming to build this line. I don’t how many but
over 2,000 worked alone to make the hole for the Albula tunnel. – So it would have been
really dangerous work too, wouldn’t it. – It was, there were several deaths during the building period. You can imagine it was all handwork, and they had dynamite, and
there were water drills, and no big engines to build the tunnel. It was really hard work. – Back on the train, we
head south into the heart of the Engadin Valley, a long sweep of plummeting
slopes and shimmering lakes anchored by the area’s star attraction, the town of Saint Moritz. (train whistle blowing) Swanky Saint Moritz
glows with the confidence of a premier resort town. (train bell ringing) Some call this the
birthplace of Swiss tourism. In the 16th century, a German doctor hailed the waters here as the best in all of Europe,
and from that point on, people flocked from around the world to this mountain retreat. In the summer, it has a laid back feel as carefree shippers troll the streets in search of the latest fashions. In the winter, it explodes
in a frenzy of outdoor sports with everything from skiing, to horseback riding, to bobsledding. (dramatic music) (horns blowing) In the distance, the sound of Alp horns, the favorite instrument of
Swiss mountain dwellers, keeps locals grounded in tradition. (people cheering) (dramatic rock music) Just outside of Saint Moritz
at the foot of Mount Corvatsch, an aerial cable car levitates my fellow thrill seekers and me to the zenith of the Engadin Valley. Aerial cable cars are a type of lift that use one or two
stationary cables for support, while a third moving
cable provides propulsion. This 15-minute ride takes
you to the highest point accessible by cable car in the valley. At 10,000 feet above sea level, Alpine houses are dwarfed down below. Forests, meadows, and villages blanket the surrounding hillsides, and the nearby glacier
looks close enough to touch. Back at the Saint Moritz station, I’m headed for more adventure. To get to Lugano, one option
is the Bernina Express, a panoramic train that
connects Switzerland’s glacial north to its sunny south. But I’ve heard great things about this country’s scenic bus routes, so I’m opting for another
mainstay of Swiss transportation, the Post Bus. (mellow music) I’m told that these
buses trace their routes to the days when stage
coaches carried mail across mountain passes. Today, they provide not
only commuter service for working folks but also tourist routes that allow visitors to plan flexible trips to some great off-the-beaten
track destinations. This one, called the Palm Express, takes an especially scenic path to Lugano. On the four-hour trip, we leave behind the
glacial lakes of the north and descend terrace
hillsides and hairpin curves on the way to the country’s
balmy southern climes. (gentle guitar music) Feeling more Mediterranean than Alpine, Lugano is the perfect blend of Swiss poise and Italian passion. It seems to exude graceful sophistication. Bathed by a temperate micro climate, Lugano’s tree lined
boulevards and holiday resorts curve around a crystalline lake capped by dramatic mountain views. One of the best parts about traveling is getting to sample the local snacks and down south here of
course that’s gelato. (speaking foreign language) – Okay. – [Jeff] It seems there are
train lovers the world around. In the nearby town of Mendrisio, I visit with fellow rail fan Marco Nimis. He’s president of the San
Gottardo club, a volunteer group that’s dedicated to
restoring historic trains. This looks like an
enormous amount of work. – The problem is with these
machines you cannot go to a shop and buy a replacement piece. So, everything you take
out, you have to do it again in the factory. You have to do a piece new, and– – [Jeff] Make it yourself. – [Marco] Make it yourself. – [Jeff] Marco explains why
he’s so dedicated to this work. – It’s history.
– Yeah. – That’s history. What can you say? So the people see how it was in the beginning of the century, how they work and how solution they had to solve some problems and I can tell you, they’re very, very, about, very, very good sometimes. Sometimes you say wow. That’s not a good idea. – It looks complex, but I know it’s a fairly
simple system, right. You burn coal to create steam. – Steam, yeah. You heat them up, it’s like coffee machine, that’s what. – And then it’s trapped,
it has to go somewhere. – It goes up there, then this part here, all the steam goes up there and there. The valve takes and comes
down to the cylinders. (workers banging hammers) – Ah, yeah. First of all, where’s the steering wheel? (laughing) I’m kidding, I know there’s
no steering wheel on a train. But you have pressure gauges, right? – Yep, yes. On this side is the the guy who guides the machine. On this side, is the pool man– – [Jeff] Shoveling the coal. – [Marco] You, one of me, yeah. – Not only was the
railway complex to build, but the machines that came
across 100, 130 years ago and really opened up the region,
were elegantly engineered. – Absolutely, and this one here, it’s a machine made for a very short range. To move the big ones, then they are to be more
complicated than this one. Everything more is everything bigger. But the principle are always
the same, so fire, water, it’s steam. – Steam and pressure. – Then it works. – That’s beautiful. (twangy guitar music) A half hour north of Lugano, the castle town of Bellinzona contrasts a lush hillside setting with stark Medieval battlements. Local history buffs tell me
that early prehistoric forts were bulked up into these
massive defensive structures in the 15th century. This town stood on a major
North, South trade route plied by Medieval merchants. Now, the powerful dukes of Milan wanted to clamp control over the area to impose taxes and to prevent
invasions from the north. So, they strung a series
of forts across the valley, connected by walls,
effectively closing it off. If they wanna come through,
they’re gonna have some trouble. The town’s three castles have been a UNESCO World
Heritage Site since 2000. Castlegrande, high on
the terraced hill top, lords over the valley. Connected to it by ramparts
is the the Montebello Castle. And the stalwart Sasso
Corbaro, built in 1479, sits alone on an outcropping
facing the other two. (dramatic music) (beeping) Not far from Bellinzona,
the Ritom cable car pulls me up a dizzying track, who’s maximum incline is
the steepest in Europe, and one of the steepest in the world. The track is long, about the
length of 14 football fields. The cable car was originally
built about 100 years ago to help in the construction of a pipeline that carries water down from Lake Ritom, which sits on the mountain side
high above the valley floor. (dramatic music) Lake Ritom is not only picturesque, it also provides a vital service. It creates hydroelectricity
for the Swiss railways. Now most trains use ultra
clean hydroelectric power, and some even generate
their own electricity when traveling downhill. How much of the railway’s
power is renewable energy? – At the moment, in this year, is 83% renewable energy, and our project for the SBB,
the Swiss Railways, will be till the 2025. We will have the 100% of energy used by the railways will be renewable energy. – [Jeff] So, it’ll really be a green and eco-friendly way of traveling. – Yes. – I mean, it is already, but
it’ll be even more so, right? – Yes, more than today. (mellow music) – Switzerland has earned
the world’s respect with it’s forward thinking
policies on the environment. The Swiss work doggedly on strategies to counteract global warming, and slow the melting of glaciers, which are so critical to
life on the continent. Back in Bellinzona, it’s time to board the
William Tell Express, a train and boat connection
that carries visitors between two of Switzerland’s
most scenic areas, the warm Italianate south, and
the Germanic central region. The train portion of the
journey is less than two hours and is a portal to some
great historic sites. (upbeat dramatic music) Panoramic cars framed by expansive windows give everyone a ringside
seat to the passing vistas. You gotta admit, trains have
a lot of advantages over cars. You can get up, walk around,
and stretch your legs. You can relax, read, even nap. But with scenery like this,
you won’t wanna sleep. (upbeat rock music) Right now, we’re headed
toward the Gotthard Pass, a perilous route through the Alps that’s been both a thoroughfare, and a conundrum for more than 700 years. Over the centuries, humans
have tried many different ways to cross the intractable
barrier of the Alps. Roads, tunnels, and even a bedeviled bridge. In the 13th century, locals strung a wooden bridge
over the surging Reuss River, a task so difficult, they had to make a pact with
the devil to complete it. Satan’s price was ownership of the first soul who crossed it. But the villagers tricked
him by sending a goat for the inaugural passage. Ever since then, any accidents here have been attributed to Old
Nick seeking his revenge. This train churns through
the nine and a half-mile long Gotthard Tunnel, drilling deep into the
murkiness of the mountainside. First opened in 1882, this tunnel exacted a steep toll, the lives of around 200 workers were lost. The train drops me in Fluelen, a pretty hamlet on the
southern tip of Lake Lucerne. This town has always been a crucial stop on the trade route from south to north, affording water access to
Switzerland’s larger cities. Today, it’s the boarding point for historic paddle wheel steamer, the boat portion of the
William Tell Express. Hello. Ah, okay. (speaking foreign language) Okay. Merci. Hello. – Hello. (speaking foreign language) (boat horn blowing) – The Lake Lucerne
reaches long sinuous arms for miles in every direction. The sheltering mountains
and spire-lined shores give it the feel of a
small storybook lake. Five paddle steamers,
restored to their early glory, troll these waters. A common highlight on Swiss
steamboats is an open engine where you can see the whirling
plunging machinery in action. Lunch on board is a leisurely affair, featuring hearty local specialties, such as Swiss macaroni and cheese topped with caramelized
onions and apple sauce. (dramatic music) We’re traveling through a region that’s considered the
birthplace of Swiss democracy. In Rutli Meadow, on the
shore of Lake Lucerne, a faithful meeting took place, an event that’s considered
the turning point in Swiss democracy. It was here that three
Cantons first joined together to make a commitment to freedom, and swear to mutually support one another against French and Hapsburg rule. Those turbulent times spawned a tale you’ve no doubt heard, the story of William Tell. William Tell was an early folk hero in the Swiss movement for independence. According to legend, Tell
refused to remove his hat in tribute to a Hapsburg officer. Striking back, the officer tried
to impugn Tell’s reputation as an expert marksman, by forcing him to shoot an
apple off his own son’s head. Fortunately, Tell split the
apple and not the boy’s head. Our boat makes a stop in Vitznau, a 1,000-year old town hugging
the shore of Lake Lucerne, and home to a bit of rail history. 150 years ago, a Swiss engineer
named Niklaus Riggenbach foresaw the potential for scenic railways above Lake Lucerne. So, he patented a special cogwheel system that would allow trains
to ascend steep inclines. A cogwheel railway, also known as rack and pinion, uses toothed wheels that
interlock with rails that pull the cars up the mountainside. The Vitznau-Rigi line was the first cogwheel railway in Europe built on a mountain, and
only the second in the world, after one on Mount
Washington in New Hampshire. (bells ringing) Lucerne. The name alone evokes a certain
sense of old world elegance. It’s the most populous city
in Central Switzerland, and the nexus of
transportation for the region. A few hundred years ago, when it was the custom for
well-to-do British travelers to take a grand tour of Europe, Lucerne became one of the
newly discovered hotspots. Writers and painters, such as Lord Byron, Percy Shelley, and Joseph Turner, raved about the area’s natural beauty, and what they described as
its simple authenticity. Lucerne soon became a
must-see on the tour circuit. (gentle music) Visitors ambled Chapel Bridge, past the tower that surges
staunchly from the water front. This time-worn wooden crossway
was first built in 1333 to link the old town on
one side of the river to the newer town on the other. It’s the oldest truss bridge
of its kind in the world, though, sadly a fire raged here in 1993, forcing extensive renovations. Touring a lively city like Lucerne can really work up an appetite. Hey. What’s good? Sausage vendors, the Swiss
version of hot dog stands, are especially popular here in the German-speaking
part of the country. Mustard. Six? – [Man] Six francs. Thank you. – Danken. – [Man] Danken. (speaking foreign language) (mellow music) – Seductive Alpine peaks
that ring-lick Lucerne beckon with world class mountain
rail and cable car rides. Carving a craggy
silhouette against the sky, Mount Pilatus has always been
a force to be reckon with. Perplexing engineers and
inspiring wild legends, Pilatus makes a great
side trip from Lucerne. (dramatic music) Another cogwheel train, this
one the steepest in the world, shoulders adventurous
souls up the slopes of this nearly 7,000-foot summit. The mountain has spun multiple legends, including one that claimed
it was named Pilatus because it was the burial
site of Pontius Pilate. In fact, up until the 1600s, locals were forbidden
to climb the mountain for fear the old Roman’s restless ghost would retaliate for the intrusion by conjuring thunderstorms. Another tradition holds that dragons once roamed the mountain caves. In 1619, one witness who was considered quite reliable at the time, reported this: “As I was contemplating
the serene sky by night, “I saw a very bright
dragon with flapping wings. “Its head was that of
a serpent with teeth. “And when it was flying,
sparks were coming out of it, “like them embers thrown
by an incandescent iron “when struck by smiths on an anvil.” (speaking foreign language) The original funicular
that ferried riders up nearby Mount Stanserhorn
was built in 1893. – [Conductor] He’s pulling us up. – Right, so it’s a true funicular. – [Conductor] Absolute, yeah. – A funicular is a type of cable rail in which the car that’s going up is counterbalanced by the one coming down. Today, this vintage car
is just half the fun. A ride that propels us
back into the 21st century is the Cabrio. It’s the world’s first cable
car with a roofless upper deck. That means a head-spinning
360-degree perspective for riders approaching the 6200-foot crest of the Stanserhorn, more than four times the height of the Empire State Building. (mellow music) Relying on what’s considered
the latest in cable car design, the Cabrio slides along two
side-mounted support cables. If the ride isn’t reward enough, a gravity-defying platform
on the mountaintop supplies far-flung views reaching
more than 60 miles over the Swiss Alps. A railway journey through Switzerland wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the transportation museum. This great tribute to transport is the most visited museum in Switzerland. The Swiss are justifiably proud
of their phenomenal success in integrating human invention into the glacial contours
of their Alpine homeland. The earliest railways
built in the 19th century were a revolution in transportation that opened Switzerland’s
previously inaccessible landscapes to scores of travelers. The Swiss soon found themselves playing host to visitors
from around the globe. This collection of more
than 3,000 objects, including countless interactive
displays and simulators, is Europe’s largest exhibit celebrating mobility and transportation. (speaking foreign language) Stoked for more adventure? I’m leaving Lucerne in style on another of the country’s
great panoramic rails, the Golden Pass. Cutting a swath through
central Switzerland, the Golden Pass takes me first to the Bernese Oberland region and the resort haven of Interlaken. Then, onto Montreux, and
the shores of Lake Geneva. (dramatic music) While it’s impossible to pick a favorite from among the country’s scenic rails, this one would have to be high on my list. It’s a sampling of Swiss rural life with view master-like
moments captured in time. Sit back and enjoy the ride. There are spans of farmland
specked with roaming cows. Then a rush of forest streaked
by fast-flowing streams. Finally, the ascent to
the daunting Brunig Pass. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle was
both appalled and inspired by the palpable danger
of these Alpine hurdles. It was near here, at Reichenbach Falls, where he decided to kill off his beloved character, Sherlock Holmes. Most scenic trains offer formal multi-course dining cars like this one, as well as more casual options. There’s something so stylish
about dining on a train. I mean, what could be
better than a fine meal served against a backdrop
of Swiss countryside? The passing tableaus are hypnotic,
like scenes from a movie. Moviegoers have long had a particular fascination with trains. Legend holds that when
the French filmmakers, the Lumiere brothers put
the first train on film, the audience was so overcome by the image of a life-size train coming at them, that they screamed and ran to
the back of the auditorium. But movies set on trains caught on. Classics like Murder
on the Orient Express, The Lady Vanishes, and
Strangers on a Train peaked audience imaginations, and train travel was forever linked with mystery, romance, and intrigue. – [Announcer] This train
continues to Interlaken East. (upbeat music) – Adventure capital of Switzerland, Interlaken is a place of superlatives. On the doorstep of the
highest mountains in Europe, and reigning over crystal blue lakes, Interlaken is a magnet
for adventure seekers from around the world. Along with an embarrassment
of scenic riches, Interlaken’s central location
makes it the ideal base point for exploring nearly any
corner of Switzerland. Outdoor activities abound in
every flavor and fitness level. In winter, there’s skiing,
snowboarding, and sledding against a backdrop of iconic mountains. In summer, you’ll find
everything from hiking to sailing, or for the more adventurous, bungee jumping, paragliding,
and hang gliding. And there’s no better
place in the world for it. Viewed from above, it’s
easy to see how Interlaken, which means between two
lakes, got its name. Larger Lake Thun is to the west,
Lake Brienz is to the east, and Interlaken is right in the middle. And with two handy and inviting lakes, it would be a crime not
to get out on the water. – [Tour Guide] Ladies and gentlemen, we welcome you aboard on the
paddlesteamer Lotschberg, and wish you a pleasant journey. – [Jeff] The Lotschberg,
a century-old steamboat, patrols Lake Brienz with aged dignity. (boat whistle blowing) When it was built in 1914, the ship was intended
primarily for tourism, but also contributed in
its fair share of labor, hauling workers and merchandise
from shore to shore. Today, it’s been painstakingly restored to bring back the feel
of those early days. (boat whistle blowing) The ship docks in the village of Brienz, a place that, two centuries ago, found a creative way to
put itself on the map. Back then, villagers struggled to scratch out the humblest of livings, but when wealthy tourists began flocking to the
area for the scenery, residents found they could sell souvenirs carved from local forest wood. A new industry was born. (chiming music) The Brienz Rothorn Railway, built in 1892, is Switzerland’s oldest steam cog train. Even after most Swiss
trains were electrified, this little engine hung
on to its old school ways. It was the city of Bern that
sponsored this rail pioneer. Back in the day, the people of Bern saw the success Lucerne was
having bringing in tourists, and they wanted to pull some
of that action further west. (people chatting) With it’s spectacular vistas
of the Bernese Oberland, this became one of the
most popular destinations for 19th century travelers. Across the lake, surrounded
by massive rock faces, the Lauterbrunnen Valley is one of the steepest in Switzerland. The dozens of cascading waterfalls inspire the name Lauterbrunnen, which means many fountains. Originating in the high Alps, these streams spout so abruptly
from the rocky precipices that they often dissolve into near mists before reaching the valley floor. My next stop would have to be a high point on any traveler’s list, the
great Jungfrau Mountain. (tone chiming) – [Conductor] Ladies and
gentlemen, welcome aboard. The journey to Kleine Scheidegg
will take about 50 minutes. – [Jeff] From Lauterbrunnen,
you catch a cogwheel train to the station to Kleine Scheidegg. From there, you board
the Jungfrau Railway, the highest train in Europe. – [Conductor] Tickets? (speaking foreign language) – [Jeff] The train climbs over 4500 feet as it chugs more than six
miles up the mountain. Much of the ride is through a tunnel, bored into solid Alpine rock. Completing this tunnel was no small task back at the turn of the 20th century. Hundreds of laborers
worked around the clock, and several men died on the job. In one notorious incident,
30 tons of dynamite went off in an explosion that was
heard all the way to Germany. (dramatic music) Once at the top, all
hardships are forgotten, as one of the most amazing views in Europe opens out before you. (choir vocalizing) The Aletsch glacier is
the largest in the Alps, and a critical source of
water for European rivers and the people of the continent. Sadly, like other Swiss glaciers, the Aletsch is shrinking
due to global warming. Paying homage to the Jungfrau-Aletsch area and it’s unique ecosystem,
UNESCO recognized it as the first World Natural Heritage Site in the entire Alpine region. Stifle your fear of heights,
and climb this steep stairway for a unique view at the glacier. You guys ready? – [Woman] Ready. – [Jeff] Okay, here I go. The Jungfrau zip line will hurl you at breath-stealing speeds straight out over the
massive river of ice. (upbeat music) – [Woman] Woohoo! – This is one form of transportation that’s sure to get your heart pounding, and give you an entirely
new perspective on life. Deep within the heart of the glacier, other worldly tunnels of the Ice Palace offer a venue for a local art form, ice sculpting. Lifelike animals glow in blue stillness. (gentle music) Back in Lauterbrunnen, the
stage is set for more adventure as I board the aerial
cableway that glides 9700 feet up the megalith known as the Schilthorn. (people chatting) This cable ride is the most technically challenging ever built. It moves in four stages. Each pulls riders ever higher
over precipitous slopes that, in the winter, offer the
highest ski runs in the region. (people chatting) At the top is a pulse-quickening panorama that stretches as far as
France, Germany, and Italy. (people chatting) It’s easy to see why the
Schilthorn was chosen as the setting for dramatic scenes in the classic James Bond film, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. (dramatic music) Inside the Visitor’s Center,
a newly updated Bond exhibit uses virtual and interactive technology to immerse visitors into
key parts of the movie. The helicopter simulator lets
you try to navigate a landing on a high mountain ridge. Or, you can duck and weave as Bond did hurtling down one of Switzerland’s notoriously dangerous bobsled runs. This is a bit faster than
the Swiss train system. (dramatic music) Nearby, the famous revolving restaurant entertains visitors with
Bond-themed menu offerings. This restaurant, relying
on solar-powered platforms, makes a 360-degree rotation
in just under an hour. Leaving Interlaken, the
Golden Pass delivers me to my next destination, Lake Geneva and the city of Montreux. Home of the famed Jazz Festival, Montreux curves gently
around a rippling waterfront. Here’s where you get a feel
for French Switzerland, in the architecture, the street signs, and the sidewalk cafes. (mellow jazz music) Neighborhood bakeries serve up
a decadent array of cookies, rolls and pastries. Bonjour. This all looks very good. Do you speak English? – Yes, I do. – What do you recommend? – I would recommend chocolate croissant. – Sounds good, okay. One of those, s’il vous plait. The region’s main resort area, Montreux made its mark as
a hip hideaway for artists, writers, ex-patriots, and musicians. It became a second home to Freddy Mercury, who wrote and recorded
his last songs here. (dramatic orchestral music) The Chateau Chillon, Montreux’s
most prominent landmark, was once the headquarters
of French counts, who controlled the area
in the Middle Ages. (people chatting) (bells ringing) Lord Byron, moved by the legend of a
young local imprisoned here, penned his famous poem,
The Prisoner of Chillon. (bells ringing) What would Switzerland
be without chocolate? And what’s better than chocolate? A chocolate train. The train that travels from Montreux to the town of Gruyeres, isn’t actually made of chocolate, but it does take you to
some pretty tasty places. (speaking foreign language) The elegant first class carriage, complete with fresh croissants and coffee, harkens back to the days when travel was a gracious, leisurely affair. The village of Gruyeres seems like a page torn
from the Middle Ages. Cobbled streets and flower
boxes frame a storybook setting. (church bells ringing) A powerhouse of a castle
presides over the town, built 800 years ago by a
local count of Gruyeres, who hoped to dominate the valley below. But beneath the surface, Gruyeres is actually a
complex, eclectic mix of cultural influences. (choir vocalizing) The Christian chapel of Saint Joseph has been adapted into the Tibet Museum, featuring a collection of
Buddhist art from the Himalayas, a stunning blend of east and west. The town’s also gained an
international reputation as a magnet for contemporary artists, such as surrealist HR Giger. (people chatting) But it’s no surprise that the
real specialty here is cheese. At the house of Gruyeres, you can delve into the intricacies
of gourmet cheese making. And watch as enormous kettles holding thousands of gallons of milk
are eventually transformed into endless racks of cheese wheels. So, Guillaume, we’ve come
to the birthplace, the home of true Gruyeres cheese, tell us, what makes Gruyeres so special. – So, the Gruyeres is a very old tradition here in the region, the cheese making’s a very old tradition. We make it since a very long time, it’s more than 1,000 years ago. But the name Gruyeres come, we have the Gruyeres name
since the 17th century. – [Jeff] Guillaume says it’s the healthy lifestyle of their cows feasting on fresh grass
and mountain flowers that’s the secret to
their trademark cheese. – Our cows are really like, cares. They all the time outside. Most of the summer day they are feeded in the mountains, so they almost only eat the natural grass, so they not feed with other ingredients. And that makes something
very important because we get the very good
milk quality with this process of milking. – So, Gruyeres is aged in different ways. So, there’s a young cheese,
like a six-month here. This is an eight-month cheese, and this is a 10-month cheese. The flavors get more complex as they age. The six-month cheese is a bit milder. You can taste all that
grass and those flowers. And then, the eight-month, has a slightly deeper, creamier texture. And the 10-month gets a little bit drier. Has a very deep more complex flavor. Excellent cheese. I’m gonna keep this for myself, thank you. The best way to warm
up on a rainy afternoon is with a lunch of authentic fondue. This Swiss tradition, which
involves dipping bread into a communal pot of
simmering cheese and wine, comes from the French word for melt, and has been a favorite indulgence here for at least 300 years. It’s one of the hazards of eating fondue. Excellent. Next stop on the culinary
train trip is Broc, home to the Cailler
Nestle Chocolate Factory. Enticing aromas drift from
the depths of the factory, a great temple to the cocoa bean. Here, you learn how simple ingredients are refined by expert chocolatiers, and shaped into the sweet delicacies most of us can’t resist. (people chatting) The Swiss have always prided themselves on the quality of their chocolate, and the tasting room here is like a childhood dream come true. Back in Montreux, a cogwheel train departs for the hour-long trip
to an imposing rocky outlook called Rochers de Naye. It charges up the steep slopes, crossing a gauntlet of Alpine
woodland and jagged cliffs. We’re afforded sweeping
views of Lake Geneva, and a splendid panorama of the Alps. For the final leg of my journey, I change trains in the town of Visp to rejoin the Glacier Express. From here, I travel to Zermatt,
and onto the Matterhorn. (dramatic music) The Glacier Express started
out as a summer only train, but grew so popular, it
began operating year round. If you were to take the entire trip from Saint Moritz to Zermott, it would take about seven and a half hours navigating dozens of tunnels, hundreds of bridges, and some of the most
beautiful landscape in Europe. – [Conductor] Your Glacier Express train wishes an unforgettable
and eventful journey. (church bells ringing) – The town of Zermott went
from obscure mountain village to prime tourist base camp when the Matterhorn was
discovered by sightseers a century and a half ago. It’s welcoming and walker friendly since, like a number of Swiss
towns, it’s car free. (upbeat rock music) Leaving Zermott, the Gornergrat Railway is an ascent into the stratosphere. After the Jungfrau, this is the second
highest railway in Europe, and the highest that’s open air. Work started on this
cogwheel rail back in 1896, and took just two years to complete. As the cars scale the stony incline, civilization seems to drop away, and you get closer and closer
to that icon of the Alps, the Matterhorn. (celestial music) Pinnacle among pinnacles, the Matterhorn stands like
a specter against the sky. A million years ago, this
was a rounded mountain, sculpted slowly by glacial erosion to it’s distinctive pyramid shape. One of the deadliest peaks in the range, this was the last major Alp
to be summited by climbers. The first ascent ended in tragedy when four members of the party fell to their deaths coming down. Today, the four shear faces of mountain continue to taunt and tempt climbers, and bedazzle all who stand below. If trains could talk, what
stories would they tell? Here in Switzerland, they’d
have no shortage of narratives. They’d spin tales of historic figures
battling for democracy, and clever engineers constructing
world class rail systems. They’d tell of glaciers
that move mountains, and mountains that move
spectators with emotion. Of luminous lakes, and hushed Alpine fields, and they’d tell stories of friendly locals who welcome strangers
into their way of life. (dramatic music) Didn’t a wise person once say that life should be about the journey? Well, maybe that’s what makes
train travel so satisfying. There’s nothing like a train trip through an astonishing country like Switzerland to immerse you in new experiences, to give you time to ponder
the larger world around you. And ultimately, to savor the ride. I’m Jeff Wilson, thanks for joining me. (grand orchestral music)

Join host Jeff Wilson and PBS award-winning photographers and ride through a Swiss Alps train adventure. The wonders of the Alps exhilarate travelers as you travel through stunning scenic routes and the iconic Matterhorn, a 14,600-foot peak that overlooks the charming town of Zermatt, Switzerland.

Hosted by Jeff Wilson
Directed by John Givens

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