Sous le soleil du Monténégro – Échappées belles

Sous le soleil du Monténégro – Échappées belles

Hello everyone. You’ve just joined me in Montenegro, a small Balkan country barely larger than the Île-de-France region. Montenegro was the last country of the former Ugoslavia to gain its independence in 2006, making it one of the youngest in the world. And yet, its history is rich with struggles and conquests. If, like me, you’re longing to extend summer, we’ve come to the right place. I’m starting my journey in Cotor, an incredible medieval city that offers a breathtaking panorama of the mountains and its bay stretching to the Adric Sea. I know you’re ready to succumb to Montenegro’s charms, its dramatic landscapes, and its unique culture. Welcome to your new Escapes. Montenegro, a truly captivating destination. When the Venetians came here around 1420, they discovered these mountains covered in dark forest, which gave them the name Black Mountain. You know I love walking next to you. It’s rare that a boy is much taller than me. Such a rich heritage. Here, the cultures and religions of the region coexist. There are Catholic Albanians, Orthodox Christians, and Muslims. That, for me, is the beauty of this place. Hello everyone . Please stand for the Yugoslav anthem. A touch of nostalgia. I like these socialist buildings. Some will say they’re ugly. I like them. They take me back to a happier time in the 60s and 70s. And for Tiga, some great moments to share. I like going out in the city, partying, but when I leave the mountains, I feel a great emptiness inside. Welcome to sunny Montenegro. Bravo! Hello Doberdamdan. Hello. Oh, do you have ice cream? Vanilla or chocolate? Vanilla, please . That’ll be €1.50. Thank you very much. Have a great day! Goodbye. Deè, then Dolor Dolores Dolores salutan. Oh, you can say Kenova to say hello too. On ditova. Actually, it’s a way of saying hello in the Cotor dialect. But you can also say Kenova in Montenin, otherwise people will think I’m from Cotor. Yes, that’s right. Wow, I’m so happy to meet you. Cotor is beautiful. Yes, of course. It’s the most beautiful city in the world thanks to the contrast between the sea, the mountains, and the city walls, which is why it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And so, you’ve asked me to meet you in front of the Sea Gate. Yes. In the past, the sea came right up to here, and boats docked in front of the gate. This was the only way to enter the city. The Sea Gate was built in the Baroque and Renaissance style, and our history is inscribed on it. Here you can see the inscription November 21, 1944. This is the day the city was liberated after World War II, as well as the coat of arms of the former Yugoslavia. When Cotor was under Venetian rule, the gate was even adorned with a lion, the Venetian symbol. I feel like I’m on a movie set. It’s magnificent. Yes, you’re right. Many films from all over the world have been shot here thanks to the beautiful monument and the surrounding landscape of the Cathedral of Saint Rifond. It’s one of the most important monuments in Cotor. Here you can see the year of its construction: 116. It’s a cathedral because Cotor is a Catholic city, even though the Montenegrin people are predominantly Orthodox. This town is really funny because it’s completely asymmetrical. It’s like you never hired an architect. Actually, we didn’t need one. It’s a real medieval maze. One characteristic thing is that most of the streets don’t have names. This one is so narrow that only one person can pass. Z ko je to kada samo on lać? OK, it’s true, let you go first. No, please, please, we’re in your house, I’ll follow you. Oh, but look, there are Venetian masks in this shop. Yes, you see, these masks are proof that Cotor was once a Venetian town. Now I understand why Cotor is called the Venice of Montenegro. Nuova piazza. This square is important to me because I lived here when I was little. My grandmother’s house, where I grew up, is here. We lived here until the earthquake in 1979. I’ve always had a cat at home, and now I even have two. A restaurant guide in Cotor? I’ve been doing this job for 15 years, and it’s very fulfilling. You’re talking about the city where you were born and raised. You know, I have to admit that I don’t know the history of Montenegro that well. Could you tell me a little bit about what happened here? Actually, it was Tito who founded the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia at the end of World War II. Six republics were then formed. Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Macedonia, and Montenegro, which is the smallest of these republics. And over time, through history, each country gained its independence. And how did it happen for Montenegro? It was through a popular referendum in 2006 that Montenegro became the last of these countries to gain its independence. So, I imagine the history wasn’t easy; it was even quite tumultuous. One thing is for sure: I’m here with you today in Montenegro, in your city of Cotor, and my trip is shaping up to be wonderful because all this history is ultimately what makes you rich, whether it’s architecturally, culturally, or in your traditions. I’m sure this trip is going to be marvelous. I’m so happy to be here with you. Thank you so much for your kindness. On the Adriatic coast, in Montenegro, the Black Mountain attracts more than 1.5 million tourists every year. More than double its population. After the Russians and the Serbs, the French are the most numerous visitors to this country, barely larger than a French department. Grab a life jacket. Thirty years ago, Mirko opened his sailing club. Born into a family of lawyers, his parents wanted him to practice law. But in France, in Valtorin, he discovered jet skiing. That was the end of his legal career. He was going to focus on tourism. And so it began. ” When I started water sports, this was Yugoslavia. At the time, there were many tourists from all over the world. French, Germans, English. And then, unfortunately, the atrocities of war ruined everything. During the war, between 1991 and 2001, I stayed here. There were no jobs, but I survived. I didn’t want to leave the sea. I didn’t want to be part of that horror. Here, I found peace.” The sea and the mountains gave me everything. During the Yugoslav era, the state organized tourism. It trained everyone from the manager to the chambermaid. The economy was planned according to a communist system. After the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, Montenegro privatized all its businesses except for winemaking. This noble production has become a tourist asset for the country. We have a total of 11.5 million vines, and if you wanted to walk through all the rows, visiting each vine, you’d be in Chicago. Here, I’ll take a bunch. I want to taste the wine from this republic. At the time, each republic had its own area of ​​expertise to develop. Montenegro was the 20th, and it developed during the 20th century. Thanks to this, even though geographically we belong to the old continent, we manage to compete with the younger wine-producing nations. With one of the largest vineyards in Europe, Montenegro aims to write a new chapter in its history. The aroma of Velike drvene bačve nosu (a type of fruit) predominates. Raspberry also stands out. The immense winery is a former Yugoslavian army base. The 17 million bottles produced annually have replaced the 27 aircraft that once lined up here. Here, few know much about the history of the place, as it is shrouded in military secrets. Like the tourists. The first time I came back here, I was surprised and fascinated. Today, I think this turnaround is a beautiful twist of fate. Tourism offers immense opportunities to Montenegrin youth. Mirko never wanted to leave his country. To earn a living, he became a mountain guide. Why is the stone so cracked here? Because there used to be glaciers here, and when they moved, they crushed the rock. Here, to make it, you have to be a self-made man. I think for my generation, it was easier than in Yugoslavia. We have more freedom, more room for private entrepreneurship. We can start our own businesses and maybe dream of a success story. To work and stay in Montenegro, Mirko and his friends started their own guiding business. Some studied math, art, engineering, or computer science in Serbia or Bosnia before returning home to dedicate themselves wholeheartedly to tourism. Someone said they saw a bear? A bear or a wolf? A bear. It can’t be a wolf. The wolf is higher up in the mountains. We believe we can make a difference with what we do. We want to inspire the young people who left, to come back and work in their homeland. Everything we do is to keep the youth here. It’s our generation’s responsibility. On the beaches, in the vineyards, or in the mountains, visitors flock. In Montenro, a third of the jobs now depend on tourism. Tiga, we’ve arrived in Perast, the prettiest and best-preserved Baroque town in the Bay of Cotor. Here, every little house, palace, or church tells a story and testifies to the richness of the past. It’s the glorious past of the captains and sailors of Cotor. Come on, let’s go, I’ll take you out on a small boat. Nénade, hi. Can you take us? Hello, how are you? Hello. We’re very, very well, thank you. You look great. I’m taking you to see a church that’s the most important one here in our region. It’s located on an artificial island. It’s called Our Lady of the Rocks. Right there, it’s the most beautiful and most visited spot in the bay. There’s a very beautiful legend about this church that dates back to the 15th century. One evening, two brothers went fishing near a rock that jutted out of the water. They saw something on the rock. It was a painting of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus. They took the icon home. And that same night, a miracle happened. One of the brothers, who had been sick, was cured. And when this church was built, the people of Perast decided to keep the icon of the Virgin Mary in the very place where it had appeared. Thank you, Captain. See you later. I often come here to show tourists around the church, but also to pray and practice my religion. It’s not big, but it’s filled with love, faith, and a testament to times past. So, for example, what do we see here? Well, I see that it’s Baroque, or rather, it’s a Baroque church. Yes, that’s right. It’s a Baroque church. And our painter Triocolia painted 68 pictures that depict the life of the Virgin Mary. Could this be the painting of the miracle? Yes, this is the painting that was found on the small rock in the 15th century. It’s said that thanks to this icon, many lives were saved and many people found their fortunes again. And these, for example, from the orest, what are they? They are votive offerings. Each silver plaque tells the story of an event that occurred at sea, whether it be a storm, a naval battle, or simply the ordinary story of a sick person who recovered. To thank the Virgin Mary, each person involved had a plaque made. This small church houses over 2,000 silver plaques. The collection kept in this church is one of the largest in the world. Are these kinds of plaques still made today? Yes, Of course. The faithful and the locals here continue with this tradition. The last plaque was brought here a few days ago. We’re behind the hotel. When you reach into the hole, you can touch the rock on which the two brothers found the icon of the Virgin. So it’s a very small church on a very small rock. You can feel the immense devotion here, the deep beliefs, the rich history. It’s really wonderful that you brought me here. Thank you, Dolores . Thank you so much for agreeing to accompany me kayaking in the Bay of Cotor. I never usually do this, but for you, Tiga, I’m making an exception. I used to kayak when I was little, but it must be 25 years since I last went in a kayak. So, this is a fjord. No, no, Tigar, even if the landscape reminds you of the fjords of Norway, it isn’t one. It’s the sea that penetrates the land through this inlet. Obviously, it wasn’t glaciers that formed it, and above all, it’s of tectonic origin. Earthquakes created this landscape millions of years ago. When the Venetians came here around 1420, they discovered these mountains covered in dark forest, which gave them the name Black Mountain. Careful, kids, we don’t have a permit. We’ve found civilization again. That won’t leave without us. Yes, Tiga. I’d like you to meet my friend Mila. Hi. It’s funny you arrived by kayak. Hello. What you’re doing is lovely. Mila is working on a traditional embroidery. Dobrota embroidery. That’s the name of this village. You have to be patient. But the more you practice, the more results you get, and the more you enjoy what you do. Then it becomes easier. If you like, I can show you a more modern lace than this one. Yes, I’d love to see. You make gold out of it too? Here’s a modern lace piece I made. How long does it take to make something like this? A little over 100 hours, I think, or 100 hours… oh my, what patience! Indeed, girls, how did this Dobrotainka lace tradition come about? The tradition arrived via the Mediterranean Sea . While waiting for their husbands, the women worked on the lace to make the time pass more quickly. And from their journeys, they brought back the materials to make the lace. Since I’m waiting for my husband, I suggest we take up lacemaking. Maybe he’ll arrive by sea; you never know, it might bring him here. You know, I made the key to the gate of the city of Cotor for a man I loved very much. So that’s how you declared your love to him. Yes, what a beautiful story. Between land and sea, Montenegro is rich in its Slavic and Mediterranean cultures. Ulsine, in the south of the country, 15 km from Albania, is the southernmost town in the Montenegro region. Here, all the cultures of the Mediterranean basin have blended. Eastern, Roman, Venetian, and Ottoman influences shape daily life. Everyone has a strong connection to the Mediterranean, like Senad, a restaurant owner. To get to the fish market, he takes to the sea, the only route he likes. From boat to boat, the Mediterranean supplies him. “Hey Drasco, do you have anything for me?” The sea brings us salt, fish, tourism, sunshine—everything that sustains us. The invaders came by sea. With them, they brought their culture. It enriched us. That’s the Mediterranean. A blend of cultures and differences. We’re proud of that here. In the 17th century, Ulsine became a pirate haven. Maltese and North African corsairs hid their loot safely on the small beach. They contributed to the town’s growth. Today, nestled between the roof tiles and the bouinvillea trees, the seaside resort is teeming with vacationers. Since it’s so popular, the tourists naturally want to try the bourc. “Hey, can I get some meat bourc?” “Have a seat, I’ll bring it over.” A Turkish recipe that came from the sea, crossing the Mediterranean. Our bourc is a little different from what you find elsewhere. In Turkey. There, it’s just layers of very thin pasta. They ‘re stretched by hand. Here, we add filling and simmered onions. This bourek stand is a pillar of our culture. It’s breakfast. It’s part of every man’s daily life in this town. Okay, see you later. Ulsine, meeting the peoples of the Mediterranean. Every week, Senad goes to the market. Here, all the farmers in the region come to sell their produce, redolent of the Mediterranean. Did you dry them yourself? Yes, in the fridge. Give me another rope. Take another one. Here, the cultures and religions of the region mingle. There are Catholic Albanians, Orthodox Christians, Muslims, people from Kosovo. Everyone offers their skills. That, for me, is the beauty of this place. In Sénodes’ restaurant, you find all the temperaments of the Mediterranean, even a little bit of Marseille with the local bouillabaisse. I like to say I’m a man of the south. In Italy, Spain, Greece, Turkey, people are all like us. I’m Mediterranean above all. Here, we cook with olive oil; there are nearly 90,000 olive trees in the hinterland. I buy my olive oil from Fatmir. This producer likes to say he was born under the olive trees because here the land nourishes trees that are over 2,000 years old. The Romans planted olive trees in the Mediterranean. You inhale in one breath, hold it in your throat, and then it slides down. Here, the olive tree is sacred. There are no boundaries between properties, which isn’t common in the world we live in. We respect the tree. If the fruit falls on another plot, it still belongs to the tree. We don’t need barriers. The olive tree is a symbol of peace and unity. In the Bible, it’s the tree of eternity. And in my religion, Islam, we swear oaths in the name of the olive tree. Wow, so beautiful. Some are in more of a hurry than others. Hello. Hello guys. Catherine, is that you? It’s my warmest welcome to the three of us in our little village, a bit isolated up in the hills. So I think you came to do some canyoning to cool off after all those hot days you had by the sea. Exactly. And I saw that you were offering canyoning. Yes. And the gîte. And the gîte. There you go. So I’ll get you settled in the room. Come with me. I’ll follow you. No, really, it’s… Wait, it’s about the same, isn’t it? The bay of Cotor and Medigovici. The road was very beautiful. Well, yes, people don’t know it, but it’s a very, very beautiful place. It’s very natural. Ah, it’s very natural. We love that. It keeps us in the shade and cool. It’s perfect. It’s going to do me a world of good. Sport and nature, it’s exactly what I needed. Oh my! So, here we are. What a magnificent view. Catherine, when did you decide to settle here? Perhaps you were born here? No, no, no, not at all, actually. I’m from New Caledonia. I came to France when I was 10 years old, and it’s been about fifteen years since I came to Montenegro with my boyfriend at the time. We came to organize hiking trips here. This village was magnificent, and so, we converted some rooms to accommodate all our clients in a superb setting because, as you can see, it’s quite unique. So, well, I’ll let you settle into your room. Perfect. And then we’ll meet up when you’re ready to go explore the canyon near the town of Bar. I’ll be ready pretty soon. Okay, see you in a bit. See you in a bit. Sounds good. Yeah. Nice. There you go. Before going to the canyon, I suggest we stop at the market in the new town of Bar to get some fruit, some sweets, and maybe try some local products. Oh yes, great. There aren’t any tourists at all, right? No, there aren’t any tourists, it’s an island market. Oh yes, and it’s open every day. Every day you can find all the good products that are found in this region, olive oil. This year, as you can see, it’s melons and watermelons. You can also have some walnuts or almonds, things like that. Does that sound good to you? Okay. Dobarde. Hello. What would you like? We’ll have 100g of almonds. Yes. Almonds. How much is that? 2.70. Okay, I’ll get my money. Wait a minute, I want to show you something. She wants to show me pictures of her sons. Yes, she wants to show me pictures of her sons. She thinks you’re a perfect woman and she wants to accept you as a beautiful woman into her family. Yes, I’m your future mother-in-law. Okay. Wow, what a handsome man. That’s my son, he’s a banker. Look. His name is Lucas and I’m Elena. Okay. Elena, come here so I can kiss you. Taste this. This is our warming cheese. Oh my, delicious. It’s good because it’s homemade. What do you mean by delicious? Chino. Chino. I’ll have a little cheese. Well, since I’m here, I’ll take advantage, right? You’re quite right. Would you like some olives? Come on. Oh yes, I can’t say no, as you’ve seen. Ah, I still have a son to meet sometime. Hello. Let’s take a picture together. Okay. Do you want to be in the picture, Catherine? Come on, all three of you. Come on, all three of you in the picture. With pleasure. He looks like a footballer. I don’t know who his family works for, but they work at the rotisserie over there. Well, bye bye bye bye. Ah, I had a very good time. They’re very nice. So Tigan, here we are at the back of town, and we can see this canyon, the Ricavat Canyon, which we ‘re going to descend with some short rappels and slides, little pools and jumps. And as you can see, the whole area is covered in olive trees, and we have the olives we bought this morning at the market. We’re going to eat before we leave. Into the water! Okay, so, dude, you feel ready? Yeah. Yeah. The water, the mountains, I love it. It’s nice and cool. It’s almost 30°C here. Yes, the water will be around 18°C. It’ll be perfect. We have the harnesses, the rope, all the necessary carabiners. We’re ready. Joy, happiness, mono, I love it. If I’m not mistaken, I put the pants on like this. There. Hop. And I pull. There. So, Tigar, you’ll have to keep your legs flexible. Hm hm. And don’t jump just anywhere. I do what you tell me, you know. Serpent is a good area. The balconies, we have a lot of snakes. We don’t know what they are. One thing is for sure, we’re not alone. So here, you see, there’s going to be a little rappel of 4 or 5 meters. Yeah. And then, we’re going to do a little slide that will end with a plunge into the big pool below. The water is very transparent, it’s very clear. It’s absolutely magnificent. Okay, the adventure starts now. There, that’s done, great. I think you’re hungry after this little canyoning session. Oh yes, so I suggest we go to my neighbor’s since we don’t offer meals. So we’re going to Lazar’s, who prepares some local specialties, and you’ll see, his place is absolutely extraordinary. You’ve been here for 15 years, so you must know everyone in the village. Yes, yes, I know everyone, and besides, there are only three families who live here year-round. And after the 1979 earthquake, as you can see, the village is mostly in ruins, actually. Oh yes, that’s right. Dobre. Dob. Hello. Come in, girls, how are you? We’ve been canyoning, we’re very hungry. It’s almost ready. Come into my kitchen, I’ll show you how I prepare the pot. Ah, this is where you make your ispot. Oh dear, I cook it at a low temperature in these jars. Gar opens his mouth. It’s fabulous. We’re going to have a feast. Oh dear. Ah, we can see the ruins clearly there. Front row seats. Good evening. There’s cherry liqueur. There’s liqueur with honey or… Walnut liqueur. Generally, cherry, and then we can enjoy it since we’re walking back afterwards. Exactly. Catherine Givellie, cheers Givellie, it’s delicious, it’s delicious, isn’t it Catherine? Thank you so much for this wonderful day. Everything I needed: nature, action, sport, and a super friendly French woman who shared her simple life in Montenegro with me. Well, thank you for coming to share these moments with us, and I hope you’ll want to come back to Montenegro. Count on me. The dynamic Alps cross the balconies. This rocky massif is a huge source of discovery for Montenegro. With 600,000 inhabitants, a third of whom live in the capital, these mountains are almost deserted. Explorers can venture there without fear of being disturbed. We spotted some interesting rocks at first glance; there are several routes being explored, and guys, look over there. I think there’s a possible route. A mountaineer at heart, Zelschko spent his childhood holidays in the high pastures. Since then, he’s climbed in the Alps, in Asia, but especially here at home. It’s unexplored territory, it’s uncharted territory, it’s a luxury. That’s what keeps me in Montenegro. The mountains and the canyons still require many years of exploration. So I’m not interested in going beyond our borders. Every time we explore a route, every time we discover a new place, I feel good. It gives me incredible energy. Energy that sustains me for days or months. It motivates me to continue, to always go further. I see no limit to exploration. Exploring and sharing their adventures on social media is, for Zelschko and his companions, an act of civic engagement. More than anything, they want to boost the sporting and tourism offerings of their country. To inspire young people, to show them that they can stay in their country and earn a living. They take the big route, while others prefer to explore the bowels of the earth. Come on, just a little further. Montenegro is truly a speleological Eldorado. There are thousands of speleological features to explore, more than 4,000. But we haven’t finished cataloging all the country’s treasures yet. Come on, let’s go. Goran is a speleologist and dean of the University of Nixich. To explore Montenegro, the universities train geographers and speleologists. We have to stop at the cave entrance because the outside temperature is 28°C. Inside the cave, it’s 11°C. Our bodies have to adapt. With each entrance, it’s the unknown, a rush of adrenaline. That’s why we descend, discovering the unknown. The width, then a little moment, 2, the height, 3, 2, 3. Come on, let’s continue. Hm, that feels good. It’s fantastic. Drinking like this, in the most natural way, is a wonderful sensation that you’re lucky enough to experience going underground. This pure water flowing in Montenegro is a rarity. They’re what we call potholes, but small ones. There are giant ones where I could fit entirely inside. When a stone falls, the force of the water makes it spin. As it rolls, it carves this shape. You can’t believe the stone is dead. It’s alive, it’s growing. It has a story as incredible as it is wonderful. Hello, civilization. Like a mountaineer who has just climbed a peak and thinks, “That’s it, it’s over.” We too, when we see the light, are happy to have explored, observed. But then, we immediately feel a bit of melancholy, a certain sadness. Because underground, we are in an unexplored place, a place where perhaps no one has ever gone and where, after us, perhaps no one will ever go. Goodbye little village of Medigovic. E Catherine, hello little guy, how are you? Well then, I’m about to leave. I intend to go to Cting to Setigner, the historical capital. Yes, that’s right. The letter J is pronounced Y. Exactly. I’ll get you some tea then. Okay. To Right away. Yeah, it’s not very far then. Ah, thank you. If I’m not mistaken, we’re above Petrovatch. Exactly. So the best route to Setinier is to head back towards Bouvaard and take the road that climbs up to Setinier and Podgoritza. So Setinier is the historical capital of the country, right? That’s where you’ll find all the museums. It’s really a charming little town to visit. I suggest you contact one of my friends who lives there. His name is Igor, he does folk dancing, and if he’s available, I’m sure he’d be happy to welcome you and show you around Setinier, as well as the typical folk dances of the country. Oh, what a great travel planner! Thank you, Catherine, that’s a very, very good idea. I’m happy to share this heritage and this beautiful country with you. Bye bye bye bye. Is one of you named Igor, please? Igor? Yes, I’m Igor. Oh, you’re Igor? Hi. But you’re so young. I’m Tiga. Welcome. I’m so glad to meet you. Thank you so much for agreeing to show me around your city. I’m happy to be in Sitiger. It’s thanks to Catherine, you know her well. Yes, Catherine is great. Is it a café? No, that’s very kind. I already had breakfast before coming. Okay, let’s go then. I’ll show you around my city. Great. Have a good day. You know I love walking next to you. It’s rare to find a boy so much taller than me . It’s great. Actually, you guys are very tall here in Montenegro. Yeah. And all the dancers in your troupe are like you? Yes, most of them. That’s right. Sitiger is the former capital of the country. In the 15th century, Ivan Ternevic decided to make Setigner the seat of the throne. He had a castle and a monastery built. Why did he choose it over another city? Setigner was chosen because it lies at the foot of the mountains, which provide natural protection against invasions. It’s the only city in the country that was never conquered by the Ottomans. It’s surprising because it’s such a small city. Yes, that’s right. At the time, it was the smallest capital in Europe. Isn’t that right? And what is this building? This is King Nicholas’s palace. It’s the urban center around which all the cultural institutions are concentrated, and it’s here that all of Montenegro’s historical heritage is preserved . It’s a very small city, but there are big things here. This street is charming with its tiny, colorful houses. Yes, this is Prince Bishop Nios Street with its typical architecture. They’re small houses with tin roofs so the snow falls more easily in winter. You know, our folk group has the same name as this street, Pardrovie. So, you’re a professional dancer, is that your job? No, I dance as an amateur. It’s not my job. Otherwise, I work at the local public radio station on morning news programs . Okay. I had a feeling you were giving off good vibes. Do you know him? No, we’ll go see him. Oh my! Yeah! Thank you so much! Thank you so much for this dance. Oh my! If I had known I was going to dance rock and roll with Santa Claus in Montenegro, he’s amazing. Who is he? He’s a very well-known figure in Ceter. He runs the souvenir shop. He’s fabulous. You know what? I have an idea. I’d like to buy a postcard. Can you help me choose one? Is this Inigier? Yes, it’s the monastery. Oh, great. It’s very beautiful. Bye. Bye. There you go. Igor, do you know how to write in Cyrillic? Yes, we all learn it at school. Would you mind helping me write my postcard for my aunt? Um, I’ve never heard of you. What do you want me to write? Well, I’m sending you lots of love from Montenegro. I met some fabulous people like my friend Igor. See you soon. I Sign. Stiga plus Igor. Thank you so much, Igor, she won’t understand a thing. I think it’s great. I’m going to introduce you to my friends from the folk troupe. Here’s our dance hall where we do all our rehearsals. Will he be able to breathe? I certainly hope so. They’re all ready. I’m going to go put on my costume. OK, I’ll get it ready. I’ll meet you in the palace square. Go! Aj mą oczy mało mne očian Bravo! Bravo! You’re out of breath! Ah, it’s athletic, isn’t it? Thank you! Thank you! Bravo! Bravo! You look so handsome! All of you! Very, very dignified, aren’t you? There you go. Thank you all, you’re magnificent. From the end of the Second World War until the early 1990s, Montenegro was part of communist Yugoslavia ruled by Marshal Tito. With the fall of Yugoslavia, communist values ​​shattered. Today, however, in Montenegro, there’s a certain nostalgia in the air, a nostalgia for life under Greater Yugoslavia. Good morning everyone, I hope you had a good day on Morito Beach. Please stand for the Yugoslav anthem. Emmania is nostalgic for Yugoslavia, and no one seems surprised. I’m doing this in honor of our ancestors who lived together without borders, respecting their differences. Today, I want to awaken what lies dormant within them. Back then, my father would go with four friends to have coffee in Trieste, Italy. They’d hop in their ficha, the little Yugoslav car, our emblem, and drive through Croatia. Today, that kind of travel between peoples no longer exists. Everyone waves to us. They’re happy to see the ficha. Znači toliko su mi draga sjećanja na fiću kad nas au village avec beaucoup de bag chaque dimanche soir après la plage on était trois à l’arrière on était heureux on n’ manque de espace est libraire et nostalgique Au dernier census, il ne écris pas Montenegrin mais Yugoslave. I like these socialist buildings. Some will say they’re ugly. I like them. They have the charm of memory. They take you back to a happier time in the 60s and 70s, when my parents had job security. They could travel, go on vacation, consume, access education and healthcare with two workers’ salaries. For me, freedom is this dignified life they had. I would really like to have the same life as in the capital. Podgorizza block 5 is the trendy neighborhood built according to the Yugoslav model. Here, the worker, the boss, or the civil servant lived in apartments provided by their company. Today, their indoor storage unit belongs to the collector. Hello. Are you taking advantage of the sunshine to clean your Yugoslavian collection? Is that right? Yes. There, that’s the first portable television. When Yugoslavs went on vacation, they put it in front of their tent. Pedrag, did you have a bicycle like that? I had a red one. They all studied in Belgrade or Sarajevo. In their university residences, they lived with Serbs, Croats, Bosnians, Catholics, Orthodox, or Muslims—with all of Yugoslavia before the war tore them apart. In a way, I’m nostalgic, I’m moved, I think it’s a model that will be reborn. I know it can work again. It’s an economic union of republics. Erasing borders is the only solution to push back against current nationalism. prostorima. This nostalgia for Yugoslavia lurks in unexpected corners of Montenegrin life. To rediscover the flavors and tastes of the communist era, one must, for example, visit supermarkets, temples of consumerism and capitalism. But it’s while shopping that she enjoys rediscovering the flavors of her childhood. No home could exist without this box of cookies. They’re still my favorite cookies. This one is truly unique. You can’t find them anywhere else. It’s a Serbian product. These products are proof that trade between countries is happening again. It’s no longer a problem to have herbal and Croatian products side by side. It doesn’t matter; it’s the market. It also reflects the feelings of the generation that did n’t experience Yugoslavia and who are also experiencing Yugoslav nostalgia. Today in Montenegro, 60% of the population reportedly feels nostalgic for Yugoslavia. Good morning. I’d like to get some fruit. Can I have a banana? Of course. How much is it? It’s on the house. That’s right, you’re giving it to me. Oh, that’s kind. Besides, people in Bererane are kind. It’s really, really charming. That’s very kind. Good morning, Nana, how are you? Fine. And you, do you have anything for me? Yes. Come and see. Are you going to throw these away? Yes, they’re no longer good. We can’t sell them anymore. It’s better that it’s useful to you. Great. Thanks, see you soon. Bye bye. Ah, you have a farm, you collect food scraps for your animals. No, I don’t have a farm. I need it to dye wool. Oh, you make dye with onion skins? What’s that? It’s beetroot. Yes, that seems to surprise you. You ‘ve probably never seen this technique. So if you’re interested and have a little time, you can come with me to the mountains. Come with me. We’re going that way. You’re great. Thank you. Bye Sonia. Bye Sania. Bye. Hi. I’d like you to meet my new girlfriend. Just got her license. She’s not very comfortable yet, and I must admit I kind of thought you might want to drive instead of her. Does that bother you? Of course I’ll help you, no problem. I’ll drive. We’ll put this in the trunk. You two are funny. Oh yes, so this is where she salvaged the wool too. You salvage everything, yes, just like with vegetables. It would be thrown away otherwise, so we salvage it. So this is improvised. It’s an eco-friendly day for me. I’m very happy. Okay, let’s go, girls. Since it’s a 44, we’ll go straight there. Everyone fasten your seatbelts. Here we go. Oh, we’ll try not to run over the old man because he seems nice enough. Too nice. So, where do I go? You turn right, and before the bridge, you turn right again. So, girls, you’re working together , and what’s your goal? You know, here in the mountains, many women don’t have jobs. They’re isolated and without income. We decided to help them. With everything we collect, we make toys for the children. Yes. And it’s true that we use a lot of our free time to take care of these women, but we really do it with pleasure because you both have other jobs. Yes, that’s right. Sia is an emergency room doctor and I’m an English teacher. Well, great girl. These horses are beautiful. Hello, hello, hello. Dobro. Do you want to get back behind the wheel? No, you’re doing very well. Safari in the mountains of Montenegro. Hop. OK. Tac. So, we collected onions, beets. And so, what color will the onions give the wool? Oh yeah, about that color. Okay. And how did you discover that certain fruits, certain vegetables give a certain color to the wool? Sania is the one who experiments with colors here. Dr. Sania. The color doctor actually says that the tradition is to color eggs with onion skins. You cook the onion skins. We did the same thing, but instead of eggs, we used wool. The more skins there are, the more intense the color will be. Okay, let’s begin. It’s great that you came. Would you like to live here? I don’t know, that’s a good question. It’s very beautiful, it’s very peaceful. I think I would be very happy to come here for a while to recharge, but I really love the city. I like meeting lots of people during the day. So, You couldn’t stay too long. That’s enough. That’s enough already. You’re a chemist. That’s really what I love most. Experimenting and working with color. Look at your hands. Look at me. Yours are purple. Mine are beetroot red. That’s the finished product. Are these your toys? Yes, do you like them? They’re really pretty. They’re very, very well made. Who’s the crochet pro among you? That’s me. I like making new things, inventing new designs. Today, with Bisserka, we’re going to work on the tree pattern. It’s the first time she’s going to try making this pattern. Oh, thank you, you’re a sweetheart. Thank you, little coffee. Ah, and how much do you sell them for? It varies, we’re just starting to sell them online for between €25 and €40. It depends on their size, the time spent making them. Okay. In any case, it’s a very nice initiative. Yes. And we hope that Marit and Bisserka can earn some money and help their family , and that this project also helps other women here. Which one do you prefer? I think I like the frog. I like that one a lot too. I’ll take this one. Good choice, it’s a lovely gift for a child. Thank you so much, it’s too hot. Two hours away by car, further north of Bererane, is Durmitor National Park, the largest protected area in Montenegro. 39,000 hectares of alpine pasture. This is where the Spovic family settles for several months in the summer to look after their flocks. When it’s time to go to the mountains, as we say back home, I can’t wait. I come with an open heart and a heavy heart. I like going out in town, partying. I love music, but when I’m away from the mountains, I feel a great emptiness inside. Velko was born here with his family. He lives on an alpine pasture from May to November, weather permitting. If it were possible, despite the hardships of this life, I would love to live a nomadic life, able to move around the mountains and descend with my animals to the milder climate near Port Gorizza. At the cabin, Velsko and his family live self-sufficiently. Every day, his wife, Liosava, bakes bread. I have a solar panel that provides us with electricity, and our cabin is on two levels: the ground floor where we live and the upper floor with beds for sleeping. Velchko and Liosava have three children. The youngest spends the summer at the cabin waiting for school to start. The eldest works in the capital, and the other boy is a shepherd. He tends the flock in the mountains. Would you like some coffee with milk? No, not for me. Lepoat is a little late this morning, but oh well, we’ll manage somehow. I’m proud to have this bountiful table. Life in the countryside is difficult. We don’t spare our strength, but we have enough food and drink for our whole family. We lack nothing. Eat, radar, eat. You’ll make better hay. Montenegro has a patriarchal clan culture. Generations work together and live under the same roof. The stove’s embers never fade. They’re always blazing hot to boil Turkish coffee, the way they drink it in Montenegro. Family is the bulwark, the protection against crises. So what do you see? I don’t know. It looks like there’s money. I’m not sure. An old proverb says the house doesn’t rest on the land but on a woman because in the high pastures, women work at home and raise the children, but we also do traditionally male jobs: dairy products, meat—they produce everything that feeds them in the high pastures every day. Lieposava makes her sheep’s cheese. In the summer, she sells it to passing tourists. Velsko has a vocational diploma in hospitality and tourism. He tried to work in those fields, but he preferred agriculture. I couldn’t stand city life. Queuing outside shops to buy bread, milk, or other supplies was out of the question for me. Here on the land of my ancestors, I don’t have a manager or boss, nobody. I’m my own boss and my family’s. Is it possible to have some tea, please? Thank you, that’s kind of you. Can I sit here? Andria, ciao! How are you? Are you doing well? Yeah. Well, I’m really curious to go out on the lake. Are there any things, any special features that we both shouldn’t miss? Because you’re suggesting this boat trip, right? There’s so much to do. We can visit a monastery, see different bird species, go through pretty little canals. The lake is almost 400 square kilometers. You would n’t have enough time in three days to see everything. It’s great. Andrea, here’s your rac. Thank you. We’ll finish our breakfast and then we’ll go. Cheers. Givellie. What a lovely boat. It’s great. We’ll be in the shade. Mil Milita. Milita, that’s the name of your boat. Come on, get in. That’s my daughter’s name. That’s your daughter’s name. Oh, that’s a lovely dedication. She’s lucky. Come on, Andrea, let’s go. Hou Andri, so what kind of animals, what kind of birds, can we expect to find on Cadar Lake? There are over 300 species of birds on the lake. Many migratory birds, but also many resident birds. And the most well-known is the pelican. As for the flora, from what I understand, there are many water lilies. Not exactly. Cadar Lake is renowned for its exceptional flora because a third of its surface is covered in vegetation. Flowers, plants, water lilies. Oh my, what is it? What is it? Adria, wait, you’re spoiling me. The local necklace. That suits me well. He was just waiting for you. Thank you so much, Andrea. All these pelicans that call home here on Lake Scadar, there’s a good reason for that. It’s because there are a lot of fish in it. Yes, that’s it. As long as there are fish in the lake, we’ll always have plenty of birds. This abundance also sustains the lake’s inhabitants, who are almost all fishermen. My ancestors started fishing here 300 years ago, and so did I. The lake is my whole life. I left it for a while and then I came back. It’s my haven of peace. So, we docked here so you could visit the Orthodox monastery on Bechcar Island. Okay, I’ll visit it then. But I’ll try not to take too long, okay? Hello, my sister. What? Hello, my name is Tiga, and I’m just passing through Montenro. I came by boat, and they told me I could visit your monastery. Of course, you’re very welcome. Thank you so much. What should I call you? You can call me Barbara. Sister Barbara. Sister Barbara, that’s lovely. Thank you so much. How many sisters like you live here? There are 11 of us, and we truly live in a sacred place because this church dates back to the 14th century. It has served various purposes. Both liturgies and masses have been celebrated here. It’s a place steeped in history and emotion. Sister Barbara, it’s magnificent. I’m glad you like it. Do you feel cut off from the world? Perhaps that’s a choice. Becoming a nun is a choice, and living on an island helps you find silence and peace. And even though we’re isolated, we’re perfectly self-sufficient. We have our own vegetable garden, which provides us with everything we need to live comfortably every day. So no, we’re not cut off from the world at all. Yes. And from what I understand, you are very happy to welcome and show your monastery to travelers like myself. When we receive visitors, it’s always a pleasure because this is God’s house and everyone is welcome. In the north of the country, the Tara River separates Bosnia and Montenegro for 200 km. On both sides, it’s called the “alarm of Europe.” Its pure, translucent blue marks The border between these two countries that were once united as Yugoslavia. Where do I sit? Here in the middle on the side. Today, the Tara Canyon attracts vacationers. It’s the longest in the world after the Grand Canyon in the United States. It’s your feet that hold you up like this. Mitcho is a rafting guide. If today he accompanies tourists, before him, his grandfather and father moved rafts of goods on the Tara. The river has always sustained his family. To the right is Bosnia. To the left is Montenegro, but for me, there is no border, only my river. You can’t control the water, it’s a living thing. I was still in middle school, even younger, when I started coming here to fish alone. All these rocks, I spent them all by myself when I was 7, 8, 10 years old. All of them. Oh. Mito built his rafting camp on the border. Born in Montenegro, he studied in Bosnia before working there as a guide. Then, when the war broke out, he sought refuge here in Montenegro. Along this river that forms the border, he built his life, like hundreds of other residents. He often stops by to drop off cheese at Stanizza and Lidia’s house, which is just above the Tara River. ” Hello, how are you, Stanizza? Tired?” “Hi Lidia, it’s great to see you. And you?” “I’m doing alright, but I’m in a hurry. Give me the cheese and I’ll be off. I have some guests.” Stanizza and Lidia have an incredible story, similar to that of hundreds of other residents in the region, separated one day by this border river. “Hi, thanks, see you soon.” She is Bosnian, he is Montenegrin, as of the collapse of Yugoslavia. They found themselves separated, each on opposite sides of the river. How did I end up on this side of the river? When I married him, he had a tent on the other side. We met. He asked for my hand in marriage the first time . I said no. And a year later, he came back. I don’t know why, fate. I said, “Yes, here I am on this side of the river. I crossed the river to ask for her hand in marriage. On the other side, she was making hay. I told her, ‘Throw down your rake and take the ring.'” This sublime Tara River, which now separates two countries, inspires men, artists, and poets. Milos wouldn’t leave this place for anything in the world. Come on, Bigaré, come here. There you go. Kid, little goat. Come on, you too, come here, come here. What has always inspired Milos are bridges like this one that crosses the river and connects the two countries. By this bridge, I left to do my military service, to pursue my studies. I left to see the world by this bridge before returning by this bridge. As André, our Nobel Prize-winning writer, says, bridges are more sacred than temples. They not only connect the banks, but they connect people. They are eternal. So the river accompanies me, or perhaps it is I who accompany it. Your predecessor had the scene and If he were alive, he’d be jealous of me. Man, now we’re going to pay a little visit to my cousins ​​in their village. But first, I want you to see the pelicans over there, look. Oh, the white one over there. Yes. How beautiful. Andrea, pelicans are migratory birds. No, the pelican is sedentary; it lives here all year round. And here, we call them nacites. They’re very big fish eaters. It’s a word that means they’re never full. In fact, it’s purely out of self-interest that the pelican teams up with the cormorant to fish. Indeed, the pelican floats. It never dives, whereas the cormorant dives underwater to fish. It waits for the cormorant to surface so it can take some of its catch. I admit, pelicans have a good life, don’t you? Would you rather be a pelican or a cormorant? Actually, neither Neither. But I’d gladly live on that lake forever. What’s the name of their village? Hi Grandpa Nicolas. A little further to the right. Watch the edge. There, that’s good. Bye. Hello. Dob. How are you? Dobès. I’m jumping in. Welcome to our home. Thank you very much. Is this where you live? Yes. Come, I’ll introduce you to my family. This is my brother Vito. Hello. Vit. V Vito. OK. My sister-in-law. Marina. This is for David, my wife Vida, my husband, pleased to meet you, and my son Vook. Pleased to meet you. So, was the fishing good? Oh yes, very good, excellent even. In fact, we’re going to prepare the fish we just caught so you can taste some of the culinary specialties of our beautiful lake region. Wonderful. Thank you. I’ve arrived at the right time. So, it’s good, it’s well secured. So, is that what you brought back? So Vesco, how are you going to prepare your fish? Well, of course, first we’re going to clean it well. After frying it, we’ll drizzle it with a marinade of olive oil, vinegar, and garlic, which will give it a wonderful flavor. Oh my, it’s going to be delicious. And of course, while you wait, you can relax and have a drink. Thanks for the invitation. Cool! It’s great to see you. Sit with us. With pleasure. There, I’m comfortable like this. You, Andrea, already knew you should have sat down, that you were going to eat your little fish. It’s a bit like home for me here. After fishing, I like to come here to relax. You’re quite right. I should add that you’re here on my native land, which is very dear to my heart. I’ve traveled, I’ve gone to work far from here, and I’ve seen some beautiful things. But it’s here that I’m happy. Today, I’m 82 years old. When I cast my net into the lake, I feel like I’m still 20. This beauty, this blue sky, this lake, it’s what I love most. All this to tell you that it’s the most beautiful country in the world. Vesco, you have all this, right? And you did everything yourself? I fished and prepared everything for you. The fish soup with a homemade spice blend . I’m very surprised because I get the impression that in Montenegro, men cook a lot, don’t you? And I’d even say better than the women. We’re going to have a feast. Oh, but come to the table in the meantime. They’re hungry. Make some room. Beautiful family table. What a sense of hospitality! Here’s the homemade bread. Here, little guy. Andrea, you’re completely impassive. We can see you’re used to this situation. I ‘m very, very honored. I’m truly honored to be here. Thank you for coming to see us. Cheers! And it is here, high above the magnificent Lake Scadar, that my journey to Montenegro comes to an end. Rich in its 300 km coastline, its majestic mountains, its history, and its traditions, this small Balkan country opened itself to the world some twenty years ago by investing in tourism. I was welcomed with immense kindness throughout my trip, and my cultural highlight was undoubtedly the abandoned town of Star Bar, which I discovered with Catherine, a New Caledonian who is now a true Montenegrin. So, I invite you all to watch this program again on France Télévisions’ replay service. As for me, I’ll be waiting for you on all social media platforms to continue this journey and plan others. Until next time. You can say goodbye.

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Sous le soleil du Monténégro – Échappées belles 15 septembre 2018

Traversée par la Moselle, la Meurthe et la Meuse, la Lorraine est la seule région française à avoir une frontière avec trois pays : la Belgique, le Luxembourg et l’Allemagne. Elle est au coeur de l’identité et de l’histoire européenne. Malgré son passé historique tourmenté, elle entretient un dynamisme et une forte attractivité.
Au sommaire :
– La Moselle
– Les jeunes et la Première Guerre mondiale
– Reconversion industrielle
– Le «Made in Lorraine»
– La beauté des Vosges
– Portrait du chef Loïc Villemin