A Tour of Byzantine Churches in Thessaloniki

A Tour of Byzantine Churches in Thessaloniki

Welcome to Travel with Sean. I’m Sean. 
Today we’re in Thessaloniki, Greece, traveling around looking at churches from the 
Byzantine Era; and these churches that we’re going to look at contributed to the city 
being named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Around the year 50 AD, the Apostle Paul visited 
Thessaloniki for at least three weeks establishing the first Christian church here. He later wrote 
letters to the members of their church which have been published in the Bible as FIrst and Second Thessalonians.
When the Roman Empire split in the Fifth Century, this was the wealthiest and second largest city of the
Byzantine Empire. In this video, we explore some of the oldest churches in the city, built during
the Byzantine Era. Be  sure to watch to the end to see the only mosaic in the world that depicts
Jesus without a beard. The first church on our tour is the Church of the Holy Apostles, the
tconstruction of which is believed to have begun between 1310 and 1314. 
The church was likely left unfinished for several years and was finally dedicated in the mid-18th 
Century. Looking around inside we quickly come to a painting encased in metal except for the faces. 
This was a common practice during the Byzantine Era hundreds of years ago. We can see 
a lot of artwork hanging on the walls, but what is most impressive to me is the artwork painted directly onto the walls. I think the big reason why the artwork 
painted directly onto the walls is most impressive to me is that it was painted 
hundreds of years ago. In this church, it was likely painted in the 15th Century. That means that this
artwork has been here exposed to the public for 600 years while people are in and out of here every day worshiping
and touring. When in these old churches, we also need to take 
note of the ceilings and the inside of the domes. Most of these churches we’re going 
to visit are relatively small, but they’re all equally fascinating. Before we 
go away, let’s take a look around outside the church. Right near by the church are ruins 
of the church that had been used prior to this one. You see right here. So, that means 
it was built in the 12th to 13th Centuries. Next to it is an even older church likely 
built in the 10th to 11th Centuries. The next stop on our tour is the Church 
of Agiaa Ekaterini, or the Church of St. Catherine in English. Scholars have estimated 
that it was built in the 14th Century, no later than 1330, and that it was converted 
into a mosque sometime between 1480 and 1510. Historians and archaeologists believe 
that an older church was incorporated into the construction of this one, and 
that it was probably part of a monastery, but they’re not sure what it was called. It is 
considered to be the most unknown church in the city and we couldn’t get in because they closed 
early that day. My research indicated that the church would close at noon and reopen at 5; 
however, we got here 11:15 and the gates and doors were closed. A woman walking by told us it 
would reopen at 5, so I guess they closed at 11. The Church of St. Demetrius was built in 
the early 7th century on the former site of a Roman bath where St. Demetrius was said 
to have been held prisoner and executed. A Roman well was also discovered on this 
site where soldiers dumped the saint’s body after he was executed . The first church 
was built here on this site in the 4th Century, shortly after Roman Emperor Constantine 
made Christianity the official religion. Centuries ago it was common for churches 
to have a separate building for baptism, which was called the baptistry. It’s quite likely 
then that the Church of St. Demetrius had one and that this baptismal font came from there, which 
would indicate that it is several centuries old, possibly going back to the Seventh Century. I 
don’t know that for sure. I can tell you for sure, though, who was buried here – nobody! This 
is only a ceremonial grave for St Demetrius. Okay, now that we’ve explored the 
outside, let’s go take a look inside the church.
[Music] one of the first things we notice upon walking 
in is this old painting which likely was painted prior to the fire of 1917 it looks very old and 
it is likely the image of St demetrius [Music] historically the church featured 
significant frescos and mosaics from the sixth and early 7th centuries some 
of which were located in and around the apps that’s that semi-dome area behind the altar 
that’s usually painted however due to various events over the centuries including fires and 
reconstructions the original apps mosaics have not survived the current decoration of the apps 
is a result of modern restoration works this long white structure is known as the iconostasis which 
is typical in orthodox churches and align with the chancel screen that used to be prominent 
in English churches before the reformation before we entered I called this a huge church now 
you can get a feel for what I was talking about this crypt inside the church contains the 
remains of St demetrius who was martyed here in 306 AD his remains were brought here after 
Thessaloni was liberated from the Turks in 1912 the current basilica was constructed as a rare 
five isle church there are only six known five isle churches in all of Europe and of them 
there are only two that I have not yet visited [Music] our [Music] desk stop is the 
church of Panaya Chalkion the name of this 11th century Byzantine 
church means the most holy virgin of the copper smiths although that’s quite a 
mouthful its name comes from this being the neighborhood where the city’s copper 
smiths lived back in the 11th century although it was closed for restoration work 
there is a plaque inside indicating that the church was dedicated in the Byzantine year 
6537 which translates to the year 1028 AD it also says that it was dedicated by a man named 
Christopher who is from a region that nowadays corresponds with Italy it was built of red bricks 
giving it the common nickname the red church the church of Panaya Aerotos is known in English 
as a church of the most holy virgin not made by human hands based on its bricks and mosaics 
it’s believed that the church was built in the mid to late 5th century making it one of 
the oldest churches in the city it was built over Roman baths during the Byzantine era the 
church was called Church of Panaya Theotocos or the Church of the Most Holy Virgin Mother of 
God its current name has been in use since 1320 and comes from a painting of Mary holding baby 
Jesus and the painting was called the most holy virgin who shows the way and it was believed 
that the painting was made not by human hands sadly that painting disappeared while the 
city was under Muslim control from the 15th century into the 19th century notice all of the 
columns the church has 24 marble columns on the ground floor alone and you can see there 
are many on the second floor also [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] beneath the glass on the floor we can see the 
original mosaic flooring from the fifth century [Music] [Music] [Music] i said before that this is one of the oldest 
churches in Thessaloni built in the fifth century but it is also one of the largest I think second 
only to the church of St demetrius that was the five is church now we come to Aya Sophia or 
in English the church of holy wisdom it was built over the ruins of the five is basilica of St 
mark that collapsed during an earthquake in 620 AD construction took 40 years from 690 to 730 and 
it was modeled after the Hagia Sophia properly pronounced Ayas Sophia located in Istanbul Turkey 
which was then Constantinople the capital of the Byzantine Empire and it’s important to 
note that this church was the cathedral church of Thessaloni until 1524 when it was 
converted into the Aya Sophia mosque and the Muslims continued to control the city and the 
church until 1912 when the city was liberated and the church returned to Christian worship this 
church was one of the most important buildings in medieval Thessaloniki its interior was badly 
damaged during a fire in 1890 and most recently restored between 1908 and 1910 the dome’s 
restoration wasn’t completed until 1980 this little chapel is dedicated to St 
basil he was born in Athens in the early 9th century became a monk in 857 AD and in 
9004 AD he became the Metropolitan like the Archbishop of Thessaloni his casket and 
remains were discovered buried behind one of the lecterns in the church they 
were rearied behind the altar table and in 1994 moved to this chapel dedicated to 
him that was built to display his casket walking out the front door we get a beautiful 
view of the church’s large courtyard looking at the side of the church we 
can see some ruins possibly from the Basilica of St mark that collapsed 
in 620 AD here is a view of the rear of the church that helps us see that the 
church was built in the shape of a cross hayos Pantalan or church of St pantalan in 
English was probably built around the end of the 13th century or possibly even the very early 
14th century no one is certain but some scholars believe that it was even built prior to the 12th 
century nobody knows what we do know is that it was dedicated in 1912 to the 4th century martyr 
who is known for his compassion and miracles he even survived being boiled in oil and still 
refused to denounce his Christian faith the church’s original name is also unknown but in 
1548 it was converted into the mosque of Isaac some historians argue that its name indicates 
that it was originally part of the monastery of Cure Isaac named after the man who is 
the city’s metropolitan from 1295 to 1315 others argue that the mosque was named after 
the municipal judge at the beginning of the 16th century you can see that there wasn’t any 
artwork painted on the walls inside this church [Music] on either side of the church is a chapel 
originally part of a three-sided portico that surrounded the church they are all that remain of 
that portico the structure in front of the church that looks like a baptismop font was built by the 
Muslims for ritual purification which is required before performing prayers in the mosque so it was 
built between 1584 and 1912 the holy church of St nicholas of Franos is believed to have been the 
church for a monastery in the early 14th century the church is dedicated to St nicholas the 
patron saint of sailors children and the poor the word ofanranos is believed to refer to 
an orphanage or charitable institution that may have been associated with the church some 
historians say that the use of the word ofanos is meant to portray St nicholas 
as protector of orphans and the needy all of these wall paintings we see were 
completed between 1310 and 1320 now some believe the church was built by Serbian 
King Stfan Uros II who died in 1321 they believe this because one he is known 
to have sponsored several churches in the city two there’s an image of St george 
Gorgos the king’s patron saint and three there’s also an image of St clemens of Orid 
who is a popular theme in Serbian churches peeking behind the curtain we can see 
the priest preparing for Eucharist the churchyard is laid out like a park 
let’s take a look around back [Music] [Music] moving along we come to the church of Osios 
David meaning venerable David it was built in the late 5th century and was later used as 
the monastery church for Latamos monastery it was dedicated to David the tree dweller a 
local monk who lived in the fifth century a 9th century monk named Ignatius wrote a history 
in which he recalled that the church was built by Theodora the daughter of Emperor Maxmian who 
is a persecutor of Christians theodora became a Christian in secret and asked her father to 
build a house and a bath house she converted the bath house into a church and decorated it with 
a mosaic which she covered with the skin of an ax and mortar so that no one would expose her secret 
theodora’s secret mosaic is likely this fifth century icon of Jesus without a beard mind you 
this is the only mosaic in the world that depicts Jesus without a beard the mosaic was discovered 
in the 1920s after the church was converted back to Christian worship following four decades of 
being a mosque our last stop is Vladan Monastery it’s the only Byzantine monastery still operating 
in Thessaloni it was founded in the second half of the 14th century by two monks who were 
disciples of the Archbishop of Thessaloni the church was built over the ruins of an 
earlier church and it was built on the site of the house of a man named Jason who is an 
early Christian convert and provided lodging and refuge for the apostles Paul Silas and 
Timothy in 50 AD the Bible tells in the book of Acts how some locals were upset with Paul’s 
preaching and went to Jason’s house looking for him but since Paul wasn’t there at the time 
they brought Jason to the city authorities [Music] over [Music] the centuries many reconstructions 
and additions have been made to the monastery today the only thing that remains from 
the original Byzantine monastery is the church inside it is adorned with beautiful wall 
paintings most of which date from 1360 to 1380 [Music] well I hope you’ve enjoyed this tour 
of these old churches i certainly did i thank you for watching and I appreciate 
your support until next time bye-bye

Explore the rich history of Thessaloniki’s Byzantine churches in this fascinating tour! As the second-largest city of the Byzantine Empire, Thessaloniki is home to some of the oldest and most remarkable churches, featuring stunning frescoes, ancient mosaics, and hidden chapels. Discover the Church of St. Demetrius, built over the site where the saint was martyred, the “Red Church” of Panagia Chalkeon, and the beautifully preserved frescoes of Saint Nicholas Orphanos. Don’t miss the only known mosaic of Jesus without a beard, a true historical treasure. Watch to the end for breathtaking history and architecture!

Check out my playlist for even more fantastic videos from around Greece: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDDp8-cvVpQ&list=PLqzckMqDhaPMPHYpLn3YBHzAzRY0zZsDg

#byzantinearchitecture #historicchurches #greekhistory #thessaloniki #travelwithsean