Georgia Overland – A Travel Diary
Sometimes it still amazes me that we came so far
with our home on wheels with such little time available. These places feel ancient and mystical,
as straight out of a fairy tale. But it’s a dark fairy tale, where this forgotten world that keeps
collapsing, day by day. Where ancient towers are still keeping watch over the land’s borders. where
old pagan gods are the neighbours of the Christian saints, and the cows live free and happy, like
they are the ones really ruling the Earth. Georgia has been beautiful, heartbreaking,
challenging but most of all lifechanging The greatest Caucasus, crossland
of people, languages, and cultures. A place rich in myths and traditions
with beautiful valleys and wild tracks. Svaneti with its big powerful rivers and its high
peaks with ancient glacers has gifted us with our first impression of the caucasian range. This
region used to be one of the most traditional and remote of Georgia, but we found that opening so
much to tourism, it’s now losing its uniqueness. Our first track brought us from the medieval village
of Mestia to the magical view of the Koruldi Lakes. From there you can hike to a ridge and
admire Mount Ushba and its massive glaciers. This track is hunted by hikers and many tourists
in rented off-road cars. We found many deep ruts, steep and narrow sections, and the
constant passage of vehicles made it more challenging than expected. But
the view didn’t disappoint at all. Not far from the village of Ushkulli, we found
a wild camping spot with a stunning view. Mount Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak
and its huge glaciers felt truly magical. There we met other travelers with whom
we will share a few days of our journey. The next morning we head to the Latpari
Pass, a route that crosses the Svaneti range and offers beautiful views of the
mountains and glaciers of the region. We shared the path with Shaheen, a
kuawiti man traveling from Dubai. In the western greatest Caucasus, there are some
tracks that bring you into the heart of the Rachan mountains close to the Russian and South Ossetian
border in disputed territories. They require special permits from the border police in the city
of Oni. These mountains are less majestic than the peaks of the neighboring Svaneti, but they are
wilder and more remote, sometimes even muddier. The route to Mamisoni Pass starts
from Shovi, a little town that is now abandoned and devastated by a massive
mudslide in 2023. Saved from this dire fate, but not from the consequences of abandonment,
we saw what is left of Stalin’s summer house. the route was wild and a bit challenging
because of some narrow and muddy section. We had to be very careful because there
was the risk of flipping the car into the cliffs. At the end of the track,
we found a small military checkpoint with a beautiful view of the valley
and on the other side the so-called Mamisoni Pass where we could see the
Russian base even from such distance. Yeah, I’m okay. Perfect. I
put the stone and I’m okay. On our way back, we found a camping spot
just in time as it started raining a lot. There we were joined by a Polish couple
from Netherlands we met near Rushkuli, Dominika and Tomek. The next day we
all joined together to explore the other roots of the Rachan Mountains. You
want to see Stalin house? on the right? After hours of rain, mud is not the worst thing
you have to worry about in Georgia. The next day, we found that the road we had come from the
day before was blocked by a muddy landslide, and we had to find a way around. Considering the weather, we had to decide what our
next destination would have been as we could face the risk of finding mud and other difficult
conditions on the other restricted routes of the area. Would we be brave enough to dare?
Well, wasting a day was not an option. Sara, tell him to slow down. Tell him to enjoy.
I thought I am fast, but he’s faster. As we were not going on our own, we felt
confident that we could manage any potential difficulty altogether. So, we headed to the
next restricted tracks, Ghebi and Notsara Pass. What’s happening? We had no idea what the normal condition of this road would have been, but surely this
was unexpected also for the locals. Go back. very happy to be here. After the first river crossing, before the
track even started, we didn’t know what to expect as these roads are not touristy
and hence not well maintained. We came across some very reddish water coming from an old
abandoned copper cave and we decided to stop by dude but just put the other feet inside and go we didn’t go very far that we had
to stop for another inconvenience Oh, my husband is uh nicely walking. Yes. Davide
said that the track is blocked by a tree. It’s blocked. So, we cannot go. No. No. Okay. Nice.
We have to turn back. Yeah. But you know what it means? Number four. Oh, yeah. Level four. We’ll
go for another road. I don’t know where they will meet. There was another way to go through
the Chveshuri Valley. It was narrow, but except for some river crossing, it wasn’t difficult. And
we reached the military checkpoint quite easily. Not far from there, next to a river,
we spent lunch time sharing memories and experiences. People from all over the
world, from different cultures, with the same passion for nature and off-roading.
We had so many lovely moments together. Another landslide. Huge. Lot of rocks. On the way to Notsara Pass, the rain caused a big
rocky landslide. Rocks were sliding down. The cars were tilting. The situation required some cut and
fill skills before we were able to cross safely. Go go go go go go. We found section with deep ruts, mud, sharp
rocks, and we were glad that the weather was nice. Now here. Yes. Go here. More more go. Straight. Straight. Straight. Now a little bit
high. Enough. Go. Go. Come on. Vamos. Vamos. On the top, the landscape was amazing. We had
a great view over another impressive glacier. We were enjoying every detail of it. until
a thunder came from the mountains on our back. We were so distracted from the
beauty in front of us that we didn’t notice the fast dark clouds approaching
behind us, bringing rain and troubles. Yeah, it’s amazing. If you want
to stop for a pictures, I stop. Go, go. Ah, very slippery section. Too
risky. Too risky with this weather condition. Go. More. More. More. More. More. Bravo. Go. Left. Left. Now. Left.
Left. Yes. Left. Left. Left. Left. Yes. Now. Now. Straight. Straight. Yes. Bravo.
Go straight. Yalla. Perfect. Straight line. [ __ ] yeah. Slowly go. So now here come slowly. Yes. The day was long and intense. We laughed.
We had fun. But we faced also many risks and challenges. We needed rest and the quiet
sound of the nature around us. The next day, we’ll say goodbye to those
wild mountains, heading east. A firecamp by a lake. We honestly couldn’t think of a better way to spend our last
night together, the five of us. I give you a better uh instrument. The Valley of Roshka is home to magnificent
natural scenery with green slopes and erratic boulders delivered by an ancient
glacier. They are quite small but among the greatest erratic blocks in the
world. They are also located not too far from the colorful Abudelauri
lakes hidden among rocky hills. The blue lakes are particularly beautiful,
but we were left breathless by the white lake, overshadowed by an impressive
glacier surrounded by mistyc clouds. these lakes and valley are linked to Georgian
myths, tales about animal sacrifices, evil giants, and powerful creatures sent by God
to protect the people of Georgia. Even nowadays, some of these eastern valleys are keeping alive
pagan dities and folklore that have been combined with Christian traditions surviving through
the centuries. Assa Valley is in the heart of the Khevsur mountains, so remote that it
doesn’t see many tourists, and it’s home of some pagan sanctuaries that women aren’t allowed
to approach, according to local traditions. The track to this remote valley brings you to the
Arkhoti pass at almost 3,000 m. The weather condition on that day turned the landscape and
the track even more mystical and incredible. Mountains made of green velvet, fragile rocks, wild flowers and rivers. This is the
landscape offered by Datvisjvari pass. This track also part of Khevsureti region leads
you to the borders with Chechenya, crossing narrow gorges and amazing ancient fortresses. This
area was indeed the most protected place in the eastern greatest caucasus. The first line
of defense from any invaders coming from the north and house of fierce and brave warriors. The
fortified village of Mutso is impressive. Nested on the top of a steep rocky hill, it really
dominates the gorges and the track below it. Shatili is another relevant restored fortress
that’s instead hidden in the gorges. But it’s another beauty of this place that
feels straight out of a fairy tale. As we were driving on the Georgian military
highway, seeing all the touristic buildings and the trucks waiting to cross the border. We
really said “it better be worth it”. The entrance to the track to Truso Valley has left us a little
bit suspicious, but it was also well promising. The track soon brought us to another
impressive canyon running beside the high walls of the gorge. The wild
river screaming just below us. And then we arrived to the valley, with the
most perfect light we could have ever hoped for. The golden hour was painting the valley
with warmth and soft shadows. It was shining on the travertine and the red colored
stone next to a mineral water spring. Truso Valley was impressive and it was
saving other surprises for us in the morning. Zakagori fortress watching over
the borders with South Ossetia. What do you think in the end, was it worth
it? It was then time for our last track on the greatest caucasus. Abano pass, a
high alitude mountain pass in Georgia, also known as the death road for the many
deadly incidents this track has witnesses. It’s an unpaved, unbarricated road that climbs
to nearly 3,000 m, prone to landslides, rain, and mud. Driving with low gear
is surely a good advantage while driving on this road that is used by
locals and tourists with normal cars, even with bad weather, as it’s the only way
to access by car the Tusheti National Park. After crossing the village of Omalo, we
headed to the more picturesque village of Dartlo at 2,000 m. Above it lie the
ruins of Kvalvo and ancient village. The national park has many interesting and
historical villages and you can spot watchtower in the most improbable places. Girevi is the
last village we stopped by as it’s the last inhabitated village of the valley. It’s mostly
populated by shepherds and soldiers. There are many ruins of towers overlooking the village in
the valley close to the border with Chechenya. On our way back, we stopped at
the village of Parsma that has some defense towers and also some pagan
centuries. Women are not allowed to enter. Coming back to cross a Abano Pass,
the weather didn’t improve much, but we were lucky enough to drive all of it
without any rain. The track is long, narrow, with many hairpin bends and waterfalls.
It requires attention and awareness. It was breathtaking for me to drive it, but
also because of the impressive landscape, and the contrast between the low clouds and the
colorful wild flowers made it even more magical. With these last images in our eyes and heart,
we said goodbye to the Caucasus, heading south. The ridge of Shiraki, the lobby of a
Vashlovani National Park. On one side, the dark colored fields and pastures
of the valley. On the other side, the first view of the park, its landscape
and canyons. Part of this track on the ridge sloped severally to the side and
this required us a lot of attention. Vashlovani National Park is a natural reserve
that extend over 250 square kilometer reaching the border with a Arzebaijan. It’s famous for its
semi- desert landscape and the rich diversity of wildlife and plants. It requires a special
permit for the park and another permit from the border police that will be verified at some
military checkpoint inside the protected area. Vashovani feels like Africa.
Canyons of sand, rock and clay, savannahs landscapes, arid steppes with
wild animals. It was such a big surprise. We follow the track until Mijinskure, a small camp located next to the river
that marks the border with Azerbaijan. We learned that there are tensions
between the two countries caused also by some disagreement over border
management. So, no one is allowed to camp or get too close to the borders
out of the official track of the park. Our camping spot was Incredible. It was completely
lonely, dark, and silent. We felt like we were the only living creatures on the planet, watched
only by the shining lights in the sky above us. In the morning, the light was painting shadows
and colors on the canyon surrounding us. And as soon as the birds began to sing, it
was time for us to get back on track. From Vashani, we connected to a route that brings
you to another reserve called Chachuna. Here, the dry steps and the lunar landscape
leave places to green oases that looks like forests, close to the bank of the river. These trees are home to different varieties
of birds and wild animals that rest under the shadows of the leaves. If we exclude the
rangers of the reserves and the border police, we didn’t met anyone on these tracks. We
almost felt like breaking the silence of those incredible places where the only sounds
were made by the wild birds and the wind. Following Iori River, the track
leads you to the homonymous Plateau. The landscape here is also semi- desertic
but the colors are totally different than the previous natural reserves. Iori plateau
is full of surprises. Mud volcanoes, incredible colors, amazing rock formations
and monasteries carved into the cliffs. We found the mud volcanoes on
top of two different hills, that stand out from the surrounding landscape
for their particular colors. From above, they look like canvas with abstract
paint stains. It’s really beautiful. After crossing a narrow bridge, we entered
the green area near the river Iori, which is a flood risk zone and in case
of rain, it can become very muddy. We found then a short loop track that
brings you to the so-called Badlands with hills sculpted by wind and water.
This area is really impressive at sunset, that paints the rock with beautiful colors. The next morning we approached the
ridge where from the sixth century many monasteries had been carved in the
fragile rock. Erosion and time have exposed and destroyed part of these complexes
and the frescos they were protecting. The many colors of The Rainbow
Hills are made up of many layers of clay and sandstone. Another beautiful
painting of the greatest artist we know, Mother Earth. Totally different from
anything else we encountered so far. our last destination on these tracks
were two other carved monasteries of the area back among people after
many days all by ourselves. As these religious places aren’t abandoned
but still used and lived by monks. Our path brought us to the region of Javaketi, the Georgian Siberia, an area with harsh
climate with extincted volcanoes, lakes, and megalytic ruins. Paravani is the largest
lake of Georgia nested at 2,000 m in the middle of a desolate landscape. Surrounded
by small fishing villages and green hills. Not far from the lake, the ruins of
the megalytic fortress of Shaori, built more than 4,000 years ago,
dominate the surrounding steppes. The route heads to a small lake hidden between
the rocky peaks. But this track is not an easy one. It’s sometimes barely visible, remote, with
steep slopes, sharp rocks, mud if the weather brings rain. As you get closer to the lake,
the volcanic rock becomes bigger and sharper. We were totally alone, full of
uncertainties as big dense clouds were chasing us from behind. We saw
only few shepherds kilometers before In the end, we decided to get to
Lake Levani by foot. Sometimes it’s better to be safe than sorry because
he wanted to finish a track at all costs. From Paravani Lake starts another trail
that brings you to Mount Didi Abuli, an extinct volcano and the
highest peak of a lesser Caucasus. Not far from it, there is its
little brother Patara Abuli that enshrines the ruins of another megalytic fortress. This ancient volcanic area didn’t sell out
all its surprises. By the end of the day, we headed to the Eliasubani plateau,
crossing fields and pastures. The soft sunset light has gifted us with
an amazing view over the Mtkvari Canyon. The cave complex of Vardzia is one
of the most famous historical site in Georgia. Nested in the canyon, it stands
as proud monuments of Georgian golden age. Even after his partial destruction caused
by an earthquake in the 13th century The church of the dormition is surely
the most impressive place of the complex with beautiful frescos that have
survived through the centuries. The path leaves the gorges and leads to the
volcanic Erusheti plateau. A vast wild golden area with just few small villages. In its
simplicity, the view offered by this route were beautifully impressive. The canyon seen
from both side left us really speechless. Built on a steep hill, the ruins of a big fortress
built in the 9th century watch over the stunning canyon in memory of Georgia’s great past. This
place straight out of a fantasy movie meant the end of this long surprising track, but it
was also the last chapter of this journey. We know that every tale comes to an end and every
end needs time to be processed, to be cherished. Georgia was truly a challenging adventure. It has put to test our vehicles,
our experience and our spirit. But it was more beautiful than we could
have ever imagined and has gifted us in so many ways that months later we still can’t
find the right words to praise and honor it.
This video is for everyone who has visited Georgia and left a piece of their heart behind…
And for those who dream of going one day, but haven’t made it yet.
And for everyone who has ever asked us: “Why Georgia?”
Well—this is why.
Georgia isn’t just known for its incredible food and world-class wine. It’s a land with ancient, layered history; one of the cradles of Christianity; a paradise for ski-mountaineers and off-road adventurers; a place where every trail leads to a story, and every landscape feels almost unreal.
Getting there isn’t exactly easy—especially for those of us coming from Western or Central Europe.
From Italy, we crossed five countries and drove over 3,000 kilometers to reach it.
Was it worth it?
Absolutely.
From the towering peaks of the Greater Caucasus to the moon-like deserts of the southern steppes… from national reserves to remote mountain passes… we made new friends, hugged countless stray dogs, requested special permits, battled mud, landslides, river crossings, and tracks we probably shouldn’t have been on.
It was challenging.
It was fun.
It was unforgettable.
It was Georgia.
Georgian Tale’s Chapter:
00:00 Intro
01:23 Svaneti
04:43 Rachan mountains
17:38 Roshka Valley
23:09 Mutso and Shatili
25:40 Truso Valley
28:27 Tusheti National Park
33:04 Abano Pass
35:23 Vashlovani
40:41 Chachuna Reserve
41:48 Iori Plateau
46:06 Monasteries
49:23 Javakheti
54:01 Mtkvari canyon
55:20 Vardzia
56:32 The last chapter
57:54 Outro
Guest starring:
Shaheen (on Instagram: @shahennsz)
Dominika and Tomek from @WalkingStones
disclaimer: please excuse our bad pronunciation of Georgian names and places! We really tried our best 🙂