Scotland Ep4 – Riding the Wild Side of Scotland – Highland Wilderness & West Coast Trails

Scotland Ep4 – Riding the Wild Side of Scotland – Highland Wilderness & West Coast Trails

Embark on one of the most dramatic and unforgettable riding days of the Scotland by Motorcycle series as we push deep into the northern wilderness, cross a spectacular causeway, explore a legendary cave, and tackle some of the most rugged and remote west coast single-track roads Scotland has to offer. Episode 4 follows a full day on the bike from Strathpeffer near Inverness, looping north to the very top of the Highlands, then west to Durness, before turning south along a network of stunning coastal roads and small twisting lanes that showcase why the Scottish Highlands are considered by many to be the finest motorcycle destination in Europe.

The day begins in crisp morning sunshine as we leave Strathpeffer after a stay at the Retreat Hotel and an excellent dinner in the village. With perfect weather overhead, we head north past the Cromarty Firth, following open A-roads into the quiet northern reaches of the Highlands. At Bonar Bridge the scenery begins to expand, setting the tone for the vast open landscapes ahead.

From Lairg, the route transforms into motorcycle heaven as the road becomes a single-track ribbon winding toward Tongue. This section, running past Loch Naver and Loch Loyal, showcases some of the most dramatic wilderness terrain in the region. With Ben Loyal towering ahead and panoramic views stretching for miles, it is a route that captures the essence of riding in Scotland. We stop at a viewpoint near Cnoc Craggie to take in the breathtaking landscape before continuing north.

Reaching Tongue, we turn west onto the A838, climbing over the high ground with dramatic sea inlets, ruined castles, and sweeping coastlines appearing around every bend. A highlight of the morning is crossing the iconic causeway near Loch Eriboll, where we pull over to absorb the incredible views.

In Durness we stop at the famous Smoo Cave, a natural sea cave steeped in history and geology. After a quick explore on foot, we continue south as the sunlight shifts and transforms the appearance of the mountains and lochs. The small single-track roads here, complete with passing-place etiquette, offer an immersive and intimate experience of Highland riding.

Just south of Scourie, the scenery reaches new heights, with some of the most extraordinary west coast vistas of the entire trip. The route leads us to the celebrated Kylesku Bridge, a sweeping concrete structure completed in 1984 and renamed in Gaelic in 2019. From here, we turn onto the B869 toward Drumbeg, one of the best small roads in Scotland. Tight, hilly, and full of character, it offers constant views of rugged coastlines and lonely lochs. We stop at Drumbeg Stores for a quick break before continuing to Lochinver and eventually looping back onto the main route toward Ullapool.

Our accommodation for the night is the Aultguish Inn, a remote and welcoming stopover beside a dam and reservoir. With good food, a friendly bar, and comfortable rooms, it is an ideal end to a long but thrilling day.

Thank you for joining me on this unforgettable leg of the journey. If you enjoy the series, please remember to like and subscribe so you do not miss future episodes.

Coming up next time, we ride the legendary Bealach na Bà, cross the Skye Bridge, and take a ferry back to mainland Scotland. I am the Motorcycle Wanderer. See you next time.

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