Dining at Sorn was undoubtedly a very good Thai food experience — but in my opinion, not one worthy of three Michelin stars.
Even securing a table feels like part of the spectacle. Reservations open at midnight and resemble an application process more than a booking — including submitting your Instagram handles to be “selected.” It sets expectations for something truly exceptional.
The food itself is high quality and rooted in classic Southern Thai cuisine. The appetizers were the highlight: refined, flavorful, and occasionally surprising. They hinted at creativity and elevation. The main courses, however, leaned heavily into tradition — essentially a series of very well-executed classic Thai dishes served with rice. Delicious, yes. But not particularly artistic or groundbreaking.
The wine list is undeniably impressive — offering Château d’Yquem by the glass is remarkable. We opted against the wine pairing and instead chose a bottle. Surprisingly, the bottle was not tasted by the service first to check for flaws — a detail that is typically standard at this level.
Interestingly, the only real interaction with the service happened at dessert, when I ordered a glass of Château d’Yquem. We exchanged a few pleasant sentences — one of the very few moments that felt personal throughout the evening.
Service overall was technically polished but emotionally flat. The pacing was synchronized and calm, yet the experience felt transactional. We were seated with menus already on the table; the wine list was handed over without introduction, and engagement from the team remained minimal. An “ingredients basket” was placed down without explanation, described only later, and partially cleared while we were still eating. No introductions by name, no small talk, no sense of warmth.
And to be clear: this wasn’t a language issue. One of us at the table was Thai, so communication would not have been a barrier. The distance felt structural rather than accidental.
The final moment captured the overall tone. Dessert included seven small madeleine-style cakes, though we were too full to finish them. When we asked to take the remaining ones with us, we were told they had nothing to pack them in — they were “not a takeaway restaurant.” We ended up wrapping them in tissues we had with us ourselves.
Overall, Sorn delivers very good, classic Thai cuisine and an outstanding wine program. But for a restaurant holding three Michelin stars — especially one that curates its guest list so selectively — I expected more creativity, more personality, and more genuine hospitality. Technically strong, emotionally underwhelming.
by benekuehn
2 Comments
Thai culture is to provide polite, discrete service, not to kiss your ass.
Not sure why people are obsessed with being doted on personally. You are there to eat food and the staff is there to facilitate that experience as much as possible and make sure you are comfortable and not inconvenienced.
If you want someone to butter you up, I’m sure there’s a million massage parlours in Thailand that will call you handsome for Baht per hour.
Interesting… when i went 2 years ago the service was very attentive and the chef also went to every table to explain the concept of the restaurant.
In retrospect i also think the main was not very innovative but i do think they are successful in elevating the traditional dishes. I’ve eaten a lot of thai and their rendition is authentic but at the same time is the best version of that particular dish.