A selection of notable newcomers and old favourites on the restaurant scene, plus wine bars and more
RESTAURANTS
EME
Uruguayan chef Nazareno Mayol Curti shines at his gastronomic hideaway on a tiny Marais street, where a nine-course dinner features scallops with smoked almonds and kaffir lime cauliflower purée, pigeon four ways and a kombu spelt ice cream soufflé. Artwork, jazz and candlelight create a romantic setting.
Head to Irwin for rened dining
An intimate experience awaits in this elegant dining room with a chef’s table facing the kitchen, where Irwin Durand and pastry chef Tessa Ponzo transforms seasonal produce into redefned dishes. Three, five and seven course menus include flame-seared langoustines with green beans and marigold cream, followed by a vanilla medallion with miso.
Vivide
On a quiet street near the Sacré-Cœur, this vegan restaurant elevates vegetables to haute gastronomy with a balance of textures and flavours. Dishes include smoked Jerusalem artichoke chips with béarnaise, black hazelnut tartlet and olive oil pot de crème, paired with wines or non-alcoholic elixirs.
Le Jules Verne
Three-star Michelin chef Frédéric Anton presides over one of Paris’s most memorable dining rooms, set on the Eiffel Tower’s second oor and reached by private elevator. His precise cuisine, lobster with vanilla and apple, turbot with beurre blanc, yuzu and Oscietra caviar, rivals the sweeping views.
www.restaurants-toureiffel.com/fr/restaurant-jules-verne.html
Lapérouse
Billed as a “house of pleasures”, this 270-year-old landmark, once frequented by Proust, Baudelaire and Colette, offers candlelit rooms with murals, gilding and chandeliers. A menu of luxury comfort food includes lobster tagliolini, duck parmentier and the signature Châteaubriand reportedly enjoyed by Winston Churchill.
WINE BARS
L’Arlequin
This welcoming bistro near the Gare de l’Est proves you needn’t spend heavily to dine well. A small but satisfying menu exceeds wine-bar expectations, or you can just enjoy the well-priced natural wines by the glass and tempting snacks, although once started, it’s doubtful you’ll stop there.
Lissit
Tucked away in the 11th, this carnivorous wine bar showcases chef Claire Grumellon’s mastery of traditional meats and charcuterie. Start with a stellar oeufs-mayonnaise, pâté en croûte, or endive and blue cheese gratin, then try pear and black pudding tatin or hearty cassoulet with homemade duck confit. The dishes come staggered, so it’s perfect for sharing.
Trouble
This tiny ninth arrondissement wine bar, near the Musée Gustave Moreau, is popular for its selection of natural wines by the glass or bottle and well-priced small plates. In warmer months, the terrace extends the space.
www.instagram.com/trouble.winebar
COCKTAILS
Bar 228 at the Hôtel Meurice
Live jazz, leather armchairs, wood panelling and frescoes set the scene for classic cocktails in one of Paris’s most elegant bars, where impeccable service completes the experience.
Bar Nouveau
Art Nouveau woodwork and a marble bar upstairs contrast with a dusky industrial basement. Three leading mixologists create aromatic cocktails from rare French spirits with notable precision, from barware to presentation.
Memento
This newcomer is already popular for its convivial atmosphere and rotating guest mixologists creating well-priced cocktails and mocktails, alongside craft beers, natural wines and champagne. Gourmet bar snacks complete the offering.
www.instagram.com/mementomarais
Causeries
Café by day and wine bar by evening, this lively spot near the Musée Picasso and Musée Carnavalet serves excellent coffee, tea and snacks, plus cheese, charcuterie and pâtés. A reliable stop before or after exhibitions.
www.instagram.com/causeriesparis
Classique
Set in a former pharmacy, this lively café and cocktail bar offers cocktails and simple food pairings, including cheese and charcuterie. In warm weather, the terrace fills throughout the day and evening.
www.instagram.com/classique.cafe
BRASSERIES, BOUILLONS
Margaux: This intimate traditional brasserie, a few steps from the Musée Guimet, Palais de Tokyo, Palais Galliera etc., is a great place to settle in before and/or after museum-going for stellar Eiffel Tower views and top-notch traditional French dishes – particularly the excellent frites and all the desserts.
Au Petit Riche: You’ll drink and dine well at this atmospheric brasserie with an historical pedigree traced through the autographed photographs which line the walls.
Margaux is an intimate brasserie
Bouillon Chartier: Paris is seeing a return of the venerable bouillon (historic canteen for the working class) and this one, founded in 1896, is the city’s most famous (and Instagrammable).
Bouillon Pigalle: This modern bouillon, just a stone’s throw from the historic Moulin Rouge, serves all the classics in a retro atmosphere: moleskin banquettes, big mirrors, globe lighting and good prices to boot.
From France Today Magazine
Lead photo credit : MICKAËL A. BANDASSAK, PAUSECOM, DESPREZMARIE.STUDIO
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