Saam feels like the kind of Thai restaurant SF could use some more of: polished enough for a night out, but less concerned about a dress code and more focused on delivering dishes that pack a big punch. “Saam” means three in Thai, a nod to the salty, sour, and spicy flavors that run through the menu. You’ll get plenty of all three—especially the spice, which isn’t adjustable for anyone with a timid palate—but dishes still manage to taste balanced.
We like to think of Saam as fine dining lite. Yes, there are white tablecloths, fresh silverware between courses, and the staff is constantly lined up by the dining room ready to swoop in before you even realize you need something. But you won’t get any fancy-spot stiffness. Go ahead and show up slightly glistening from a workout or in your favorite flip-flops—you won’t feel out of place at all. It feels like just the right setting to get a little sweaty (or sweatier) over a fiery shrimp tartare, a more gently spiced freshly pounded duck curry with perfectly seared meat, or a salt-crusted branzino that we love to split with a group.
Bring a date or a few friends who want to try a little bit of everything. The menu is small enough that four people can make their way through most of it. And unlike plenty of other restaurants that feel this fancy, you can usually snag a table just a few days ahead, especially if you’re willing to eat early.
Food RundownShrimp Tartare
The spiciest dish on the menu, and again, no adjustments, so order accordingly. The fermented fish sauce packs a ton of heat that lingers, while sliced persimmon adds some soothing sweetness. We could do with more shrimp, but this is a lovely starter if you don’t mind a spontaneous runny nose.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Goong Tod Nam Pla Waan
We love the sweetness and mild spiciness on these fried prawns. Our only complaint is that the left-on shells distract way too much from the otherwise well-prepared meat, and removing the shell also means removing the sauce. They’re still worth trying, but just be ready to put in some work.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Pad Ped Ped
This freshly pounded curry has the most heat of any of them, and it’s our favorite one on the menu. The duck is soft without surrendering its chew, and young coconut adds richness to the whole thing. There’s almost no sauce though, so set your expectations for something meat-heavy.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Gaeng Kua Clams
Our back-up to the pad ped ped. The clams are nice and tender, but this, too, suffers from the lack of sauce. Treat this more like a clam dish that doesn’t require a side of rice.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Pla Phao
If you’ve got a small group with anyone spice-sensitive, this salt-crusted whole branzino carved tableside is a good choice. It’s served with tomato and peanut sauces and a mini garden bed of herbs and lettuce to make wraps.
video credit: Patrick Wong
Khao Soi Haeng Seafood
Another good choice for avoiding spice. We found this dish to be too salty, though, so stick with the pla phao if you’re going for just one entree.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Khao Op Pla, Nam Prik Narok
Our favorite main, especially if it’s just two people. The claypot rice is appropriately crispy with a flawlessly cooked fish of the day. A spicy and tangy relish should go on every bite.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Ka Lum Pad Nam Pla
We always get a side of this vegan cabbage dish. It’s simple, with garlic and a ton of umami that only fish sauce can provide.
photo credit: Patrick Wong
Lod Chong
The pandan panna cotta is firm enough to stand up to the creaminess of the generous scoop of coconut ice cream on top. There’s usually only two dessert options, but if you see this, get it.
photo credit: Patrick Wong