Hidden Masterpiece of Medieval Stained Glass in the Heart of Paris: King Louis IX’s Private Chapel
Today we’re visiting one of the most glorious things to see that maybe is a little less well-known in Paris. It is the amazing Sainte-Chappelle on the Ile de la Cite, and there is a lot to see and learn here, so grab a coffee and let’s jump into this amazing Chapel that was
Built in 1248 by Louis the 9th. He was building it as his own private Royal Chapel, so the upper part was for him and his select guests, and the lower Chapel was for his staff, but Sainte-Chappelle was also entirely built as a reliquary to hold the amazing holy relics that he collected
Throughout his reign, at great expense to France. In 1239 he spent half of France’s annual income securing the Crown of Thorns from the Emperor of Constantinople, after 2 years of negotiating, and by 1241 his collection included up to 22 other holy relics, including a piece of the True Cross,
Christ’s blood, the Holy Sponge and the Lance. After Louis’s death, his son actually added his skull in a golden casket to be added to the list of holy relics housed here. They were all in individual you know decorated reliquaries of their own, but they were also housed inside
One larger reliquary that held all of them, and that was sadly melted down during the Revolution, and most of the relics have disappeared, although the Crown of Thorns was preserved and added to the treasury at nearby Notre Dame Cathedral in 1806, where it still resides to this day. So basically
This was like a giant treasure chest, and Louis purposely had it built to echo the dimensions of King Solomon’s Hall of Justice as mentioned in the Book of Kings in the Bible, thus drawing obvious comparisons between himself and that wise king of old. Louis himself was an interesting character.
He was a great-grandson of the famous Eleanor of Aquitaine, who traveled from England to Spain in 1200 at the age of around 77 to select his mother (her granddaughter, Blanche of Castile) to be the Bride of Louis VIII and escort her back to France. Blanche would go on to be revered by Louis,
As she was his Regent twice, when he ascended the throne at age 12, so she was Regent between 1226 and 1234, and then again during one of his Crusades later in life, so her coat of arms can be seen all throughout this chapel. And Louis was actually ahead of his time politically. When
He returned from the seventh crusade in 1254, he established what was called the Great Ordinance, which included some very modern ideas, such as: 1) Justice was to be rendered to all, regardless of personal distinction. 2) Royal officials were forbidden to accept gifts for
Themselves or their families. 3) Fines were not to be imposed without judgment, establishing the presumption of innocence and the need for rational evidence by witnesses. 4) He established moral rules regarding blasphemy, prostitution, gambling, and also forbade interest-bearing loans, and 5)
Wives couldn’t be punished for their husband’s faults. So in other words, a ruler who would be a hero in in today’s political climate. You can see a statue of him in the lower Chapel here, but the main thing people come for is the magnificent upper chapel and the stained glass. This is..
“glorious” is really the only word I can think of to describe it, awe-inspiring in every sense of the word. This place is just a hidden marvel right in the heart of Paris from the 1200s. People
Walk by it just like “yeah, no big deal, chapel,” it’s so incredible! It’s not that big, but it is amazing that it’s still here. Most of these pieces of glass are still original, about two thirds of them are original from the 1200s. There are 15 bays of original stained glass that measure
Anywhere from 13 to 15 meters high, for a total of 670 square meters of stained glass. There are 1113 individual scenes in this stained glass, and they tell the story of The History of the World as told throughout the biblical account, from the Creation right up into Louis’s time of accepting the Crown
Of Thorns and bringing it in procession to Paris. You can actually see the Creation in one of the pieces of glass. You can see Moses breaking the golden calf. There’s Christ’s Passion, and then the stunning Rose window sort of shows the culmination of the story with a depiction of
The Apocalypse. This type of stained glass was very important in cathedrals of the era, because throughout the middle and medieval ages, most common people were not literate, so they could not read the Bible, and the stained glass was a way for them to see the pictures of the stories
That they couldn’t read. So this amazing space is where they could come and see the pictures of the story and be just floored right to their socks at the magical play of light coming in through this incredible artwork. All of this is, it just literally will take your breath away. The walls,
The uprights, the decorations, the windows, the floor. It’s just amazing to see it and to imagine how many people from history have walked through this space–it is just mind-boggling, and it’s hard to get your head around someone building, they built this in the 1200s when you’re
Thinking of you know middle-ages people living in like dirt floored huts, and yet we had the skill to put this level of artistry together. You will also see statues of the 12 apostles. You will see over 100 different plant motifs in the carvings here, so the fact that it’s still
Standing and you can still see this is just about miraculous, it’s astonishing just to see the light coming in through here and to see this whole space– it will just take your breath away. Sainte-Chappelle did suffer some damage. There were two fires that damaged it in 1630 and 1776,
And then during the Revolution it was actually used as a flour warehouse, and then as storage for archives between 1803 and 38, after which some of these magnificent windows were walled up and the glass was dismantled or destroyed, and some of it actually went onto the art market,
Especially into England. It was saved from entire destruction by sort of a public movement, and the project lasted between 1840 and 1863 to reconstruct and restore it to its current glory. To visit here, it is an easy walk if you’re in the Ile de la Cite or the Ile Sainte Louis area
Or the Marais or the Latin quarter, definitely do not skip this. When we visited, we actually got the uh PassLib, I believe, which was a pass you could buy that would include basically all the museums and monuments in Paris, and some of them even outside of Paris, so look into the
Different passes that you can get or a timed entry ticket so you don’t have to stand in the long line to get in.You walk up sort of to the front and get right in through the already-ticketed line,
And once you get in, I don’t know if it’s better marked now, when we were here the signs were not obvious that there was an upper Chapel, so we walked in, and you come into this lower Chapel
With the gorgeous royal blue ceiling and the motifs, and we thought that was all there was, and it wasn’t obvious that there was more, and we were like, “Well we’re here to see stained glass, but…?” And there was even a girl behind us I heard who must have been American, and she
Was like…”So…like, is this the whole thing, cuz this isn’t very cool..” and we were kind of thinking this, like “Well you know, this is neat, but it’s not, you know, I thought it was going to
Be stained glass..?” And there was a little door at the back that you would go up through this little like antique ancient spiral staircase that takes you up to this glorious upper Chapel, so if
You go and you go into the bottom, make sure you go up find the little stairs and go up into this glorious upper Chapel. If you’d like to make a day out of it, for our day on this particular trip,
We went to the Clunt Museum first, then walked over to the Sainte Michel Fountain, and met my French tutor at the time. We walked through the bird market near Notre Dame and did some shopping, and then we went into the Sainte-Chappelle and on from there to a lovely lunch, before
Wandering back to our apartment in the city. Let us know if you’ve ever been to this masterpiece of stained glass in the heart of Paris! Thanks for watching and we’ll see you in the next video.
More glorious than the Notre Dame Cathedral nearby, this lesser-known but visually stunning ancient treasure has survived on the Ile de la Cité since 1248!
If you’ve never been here or heard of it, don’t skip it, it’s literally breathtaking inside, plus its history is pretty cool, too!
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PHOTO CREDITS:
Building by Bococo, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
Chapelle basse wide view Jean-Pierre Dalbéra from Paris, France, CC BY 2.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Outside façade, no attribute needed
Interior full windows gnosne, CC BY 2.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Glass detail Harmonia Amanda, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Common
Columns Conxa Roda, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Upper chapel Artmch, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Podium and windows Taltyelemna, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Creation scene https://picryl.com/media/sainte-chapelle-god-creates-plants-and-trees-36c1f1
Detail Randi Hausken from Bærum, Norway, CC BY-SA 2.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
St Louis Britchi Mirela, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Stained glass detail https://picryl.com/media/sainte-chapelle-flagellation-of-jesus-christ-5f15ab
Stained glass detail2 https://picryl.com/media/sainte-chapelle-moses-breaks-the-golden-calf-949aa5
St Chapelle panorama https://www.flickr.com/photos/pedrosz/42015393332
Rose window Mark Mitchell, CC BY 2.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
5 Comments
Lesser known to tourists. I have seen the St. Chapelle many times before the restoration of the stained glass windows. After the restoration, I saw them on a very sunny spring afternoon and with the sunlight streaming through this magnificent bible on glass, absolutely dazzling! A jewel of almost 8 centuries.
Earlier I watched the tour of Malmaison which was excellent as is this one. Thank you. Keep up the great work
Yesssss! I always learn something new from your amazing videos! The tip about the staircase to find the stained glass chapel on the floor above is spot on. It’s an important tip that most people don’t understand and you are right – the signs are still not very clear. I would also add that times tickets are more important now, as people are returning to Paris and the crowds are much bigger. Entry can be delayed because it is also part of the Palais du Justice and Paris courthouses. I suggest getting the earliest ticket to avoid any delays, and you’ll also be treated to the morning sunlight through the stained glass windows. Be careful what you bring in your bags, because you go through TSA style scanners to enter the Palais du Justice space. Another thing that I like about this visit is that it doesn’t take very long. It usually only lasts about 45 minutes, so it’s a great thing to do on your way to and from different places in Paris. Last but not least, don’t forget to check their website. They hold special events, concerts, symphonies, and other magical events, usually at night. Often served with champagne too!
When we visited Paris in 2010, we visited the chapel during the day, and then returned in the evening for a chamber music concert. Incredible!
Truly breathtaking