Bonnieux FRANCE 🇫🇷 A Guided Walk 🤩 Hilltop Village in Provence [4k]

Bonnieux FRANCE 🇫🇷 A Guided Walk 🤩 Hilltop Village in Provence [4k]

Bonjour, I’m Pierre from French  Moments and in this video,   we’ll take a walk through the streets  of the village of Bonnieux in Provence.  So, let’s put on our walking shoes and start  the discovery from the bottom of the village. If you enjoyed this video, don’t  forget to hit that like button! 

It really supports the channel and  helps us bring more content to you.  Also, if you haven’t already, be sure  to click on the subscribe button and   turn on the notification bell so you  never miss out on our latest videos.

Here we are at the Pré du Bourg car  park, at the very bottom of the village.  Let’s walk to the end of the car park and take the   steps up to the roundabout near  the new church, built in 1870. 

Between the new church and the old  church at the very top of the village,   you can see that Bonnieux is a hilltop  village built in tiers above the valley. Let’s cross the roundabout  and take Rue Victor Hugo.  This is where you’ll find the village’s  only bakery, a Newsagent and, further on,  

We’ll pass the tourist office and other shops.  The village of Bonnieux dates  back to the Middle Ages.  It was first mentioned in 975 under the name of  Castro Bonilis and came under the control of the   county of Forcalquier in the 12th century. In 1274, Bonnieux became papal land and  

Remained so until 14 September  1791, at the French Revolution. As part of the pontifical domain, Bonnieux became  an enclave in the lands of the Count of Provence,   giving it a special place in the region’s history. On the left is the former Hôtel Dieu, built  in 1749 and enlarged in the 19th century. 

The building is now the town hall  and houses the tourist office.  We are now arriving at the  Place du Quatre Septembre.  There are a few cafés and shops and a hotel. Let’s cross the road. And turn to the right. This is one aspect of the lower town. We’ll continue up these stairs.

And here we are at the foot  of the Bonnieux ramparts,   which mark the separation  between the lower and upper town. Let’s continue along the little Rue du Portalet,   from where you have an interesting  view of the roofs of the lower town and the old stone facades of the upper town.

The little campanile you see  in the distance is that of   the Hôtel Dieu chapel, which we passed earlier. Let’s look behind us: here is the  medieval gateway, Le Portalet.  Let’s go under it to reach the Rue Emile Appy. In the Middle Ages, the gateway of Le  

Portalet was an important inner  protection for access to the town. From there, we’re beginning to get a  good view of the area around Bonnieux,   with the village of Lacoste in the distance. Here we are on Rue Emile Appy. As you can see, it’s not very busy,  

Perhaps because tourists don’t  know this part of the village.  And, above all, the Google Street cameras  don’t have access to it, it’s way too narrow! Rue Emile Appy is named after an  18th-century notary from Bonnieux.  We’ll take these stairs on  the left later, but first,  

Let’s explore the square of Place du  Moulin à Huile and its surroundings. This is the Rue des Remparts from  the top of the fortications here. There were many oil mills in  Bonnieux inside the fortifications.  Several houses had a millstone and a press.

We will now walk along the ramparts between the  Rue des Remparts and the Rue de la République.  These are the western battlements with corbelled  structures that can still be seen today.  Let’s retrace our steps towards  the Place du Moulin à Huile  with this beautiful view of the  Petit-Luberon mountain in the distance.

So, that was the Place du Moulin à Huile. Ok, now let’s take the stairs  to the Place de la Liberté.  We have now arrived at the Place de la  Liberté, which in the Middle Ages was   known as the Place de la Justice. There was a court of justice here,  

And it was also here where public  corporal punishments were carried out.  The square was redeveloped in the 19th century  when the Rue de la République was widened.  We’ll come back to this square later, but  in the meantime, let’s pass under the porch.  We are now facing the Rue des  Pénitents Blancs, which leads  

To the old church known as ‘Eglise-du-haut’. The stairway is not lacking in  charm, and the slope begins gently.  The first part of the street  leads to the former town hall,   known as the Hôtel de Rouvil. We’ll see it on the left. 

The mansion belonged to an old Bonnieux family  before becoming a town hall in the 19th century.  The mansion is preceded by  a beautiful stone porch. On the right is the Rue François  Julien, which we’ll follow later.  But now, let’s get on with the climb. 

The slope is steep, and the  stairs were restored in 2000.  See that ornate iron gate on the left? It gave access to the Chapelle de Notre   Dame de Sept Douleurs, built by the  Brotherhood of the White Penitents. On 11 June 1909, an earthquake  caused cracks in the chapel walls. 

It had to be demolished in 1915 because  it posed a public danger to visitors.  You had to be in good shape to get  to the church and its cemetery.  That’s why the inhabitants of Bonnieux used  to say that “the dead buried the living”!  Pfew. Here we are at the top of the stairs. 

There are more steps waiting for us  before we reach the church, but first,   let’s catch our breath and admire the  superb view from the panoramic terrace. This site offers the best view  of the lower part of the village,   the Bonnieux countryside, the Calavon valley,  the neighbouring villages of Lacoste and Goult,  

The Monts de Vaucluse and Mont Ventoux. The camera doesn’t capture all the details   that the eye can see, but this film  gives you an idea of the panorama.  With the naked eye, I can see the  villages of Gordes and Roussillon. 

On the right, you can see the outskirts of  Apt and as far away as Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt.  Let’s move on to the orientation  table just a few metres away.  Thanks to the orientation table, you can  recognise all the villages and tourist   sites in this part of the Luberon,  including those I mentioned earlier. 

OK, are you ready to reach the old church? There are still 79 steps separating us   from the Eglise-Haute, which dominates the  village surrounded by hundred-year-old cedars. Let’s get started! Here are the last 79 steps  before reaching the church.  Can you see these time-worn steps? 

I can imagine the footsteps of the villagers  who have endured these stairs for generations. I’m glad I don’t have to climb  them on a hot summer’s day!  Just a few words about the old church. It rises to an altitude of 429 metres. 

We started our visit from the car  park at the bottom of the village,   at an altitude of 330 metres. In other words, we have already   climbed 100 metres, almost as high as  the second floor of the Eiffel Tower.  The present church dates back to the 12th century,  

But only the two original bays  remain from that era, and the bulk   of the building dates from the 15th century. The church was placed under the protection   of Saint Gervais and Saint Protais. So here’s the magnificent view over the   roofs of Bonnieux towards Lacoste  and the Petit Luberon mountain.

Like many churches in the region, it  is generally closed to the public.  And in 2023, it was open every day  from July to August from 3 pm to 5 pm.  So let’s take a look at the view over the  Calavon Valley and the new church in Bonnieux. 

You can see the panoramic  terrace we were on earlier,   and the view stretches as far as Mont  Ventoux, 40 km away as the crow flies. I am particularly fond of this view,  framed by beautiful centuries-old cedars.  Now that we’ve reached the top of  the village, let’s continue our  

Discovery of Bonnieux by taking the Rue du  Castellas that will lead us to the historic   site of the former medieval castrum. Luckily for us, it’s a flat street,   so we’ll be able to rest our legs  a little after the last climb. But first, a short diversion  to the old churchyard. 

It’s a lovely green space, great  for relaxing or having a picnic.  Let’s head back to the church and  turn right on the Rue du Castellas.  I really like these Lebanese cedars.  They provide lots of shade and  coolness on hot summer afternoons. 

The street is bordered on either side  by dry-stone walls that give the place   a typically Mediterranean feel. Behind the walls are gardens   overlooking noble houses whose stonework  probably comes from the ancient castrum.  A first wall was built around  this castrum and its chapel. 

A second wall was built between the  late 12th and mid-13th centuries.  Finally, a third wall was built at the end  of the 14th century, the same as the one   we saw towards the bottom of the village  as we passed through the Portalet gate. 

We are now arriving at the site of the castrum,  whose name was first mentioned in 1103.  The oratory contains a stone statue of the Virgin  and Child, which could date from the 17th century.  Let’s climb to the top of the hill where  there is a Calvary dating from 1839. 

The pine forest that borders the site of  the old castrum is planted with magnificent   trees that smell of pine, especially in  the evening after a hot summer’s day.  This is the view of the D36 road that  leads to Lourmarin in a mountain setting. Ok, let’s go back down.

Can you see the stone edifice at the bottom?  It is a covered well known as the “Puits  des souffrances” or “well of suffering”.  It is 45 metres deep and was mentioned in  historical documents as the only well in the town.  It was particularly precious during the  Wars of Religion in the 16th century. 

We now head back down the Rue du  Castellas, passing through the   old medieval Castellas gateway, also known  as the Portail des Chèvres or Goats Gate.  This may have been the only  entrance to the castrum.  We are now outside the historic village of  Bonnieux, that is outside the medieval ramparts.

We’re not going to go straight on. Let’s take the hairpin bend on the right to  re-enter the historic part of the village. In 1348, the Great Plague arrived in Bonnieux,   followed by the troubles  of the Hundred Years’ War.  The defensive systems were reinforced  and, in the 15th century, the land was  

Brought back into use with the help of a  population from elsewhere, the Vaudois.  Unfortunately, the second half of the 16th century  was characterised by persecution and massacres. Let’s enter the village again  through the Porte des Guiramands,   a gateway in the line of ramparts  that once covered the castrum walls. 

The Rue Droite is one of my  favourite streets in Bonnieux.  It is a “Rue caladée” that is a street paved  with river pebbles or cobbled with limestone. The street is full of little  treasures, including old houses,   beautiful arched doorways, a wheel  fountain and remains of ramparts.

The Rue Droite features tall houses typical  of the hilltop villages of Provence.  This type of dwelling combines human and  animal accommodation under the same roof.  The elevated house is subdivided  into a stable on the ground floor,   accommodation on one or two  floors, and an attic in the loft. 

This was the type of house reserved for village  farmers who did not have much livestock to house.  Their architecture is typical of a Provençal  village house, with a narrow façade featuring   one or two windows and a maximum height of  four or five storeys, including the attic. 

Most of these houses date from the 16th century  when the Wars of Religion forced villagers to   take shelter behind the village fortifications. In that time, Bonnieux had remained faithful to   the Catholic religion, unlike the  neighbouring village of Ménerbes,   which adopted the new Protestant religion  and suffered the terrible siege of 1573. 

We will now leave the Rue Droite and turn  right into the Rue de l’Ancien Presbytère.  This will allow us to admire the roofs  of Bonnieux and get a bit of height.  I thought I was done with the climbs, but  this is the very last one of the walk. 

And here’s another great view  of the roofs of Bonnieux.  In the sun-drenched villages of  Provence, the rooftops present a   captivating tapestry of warm, red tiles. They are a hallmark of the region’s   architectural charm. These terracotta tiles,   known as ‘tuiles canal,’ are traditionally  crafted from the rich, local clay. 

These curved tiles create a rhythmic  pattern of light and shadow on the roofs,   that echo the rolling hills and  flowing rivers of the countryside. “Bonjour le chat!” We are now reaching the end of  the Rue des Pénitents Blancs,   which we climbed to reach the  belvedere and the upper church.

We’ll go back down the street for a few metres   before turning left into the  small Rue François Julien. You see, tourists think this is  a private alley with no exit.  But not at all. It’s a picturesque,   shady street that will take us  down to the Rue de la République.

This is the Rue de la République, and at the time  of the video, the tarmac has just been resurfaced.  And to start with, here’s the Fontaine  des Dauphins that features two dolphins.  This is one of the most  beautiful fountains in Bonnieux,   and was also known as the “Grande Fontaine”.

This is the famous Musée de la  Boulangerie or Bakery Museum.  Rue de la République is a rather austere street.  This can be explained by the major urban  works that were carried out around the 1840s.  Behind the facades, which have no particular  charm, are magnificent residences with sumptuous  

Decorations, beautiful stone staircases,  painted ceilings and Renaissance frescoes   that evoke Bonnieux’s rich past when  the village belonged to the Popes. Here we are again on the Place de la Liberté. Here, you may recognise the Rue Emile Appy that   we walked up towards the beginning of our walk. Now we’ve taken the Rue Voltaire,  

Which is full of surprises. It was home to the noble   and bourgeois families of Bonnieux. This is the entrance to the Hôtel d’Anselme,   with its beautiful Renaissance façade. There is a passageway under the   house with a flat beamed ceiling. Here is the Sembletour House, framed by a lion,  

Which belonged to the Count of La Canorgue and  whose oldest parts date back to the 12th century. Now, let’s take a look at this  curious tunnel beneath the houses.  This small area, once enclosed, was the  Carriera, reserved for the Jewish community. 

Its inhabitants were required to live  there and were locked in at night.  Because they couldn’t expand  beyond this perimeter,   the Jews of Bonnieux built their  houses six or seven storeys high.  Let’s return to the Rue Voltaire  that you can see from above. 

Today, the street is rather quiet. In the past, it was noisy and lively.  It used to be called Rue du café  because there were so many cafés.  It was the main shopping street in the village. It’s a bit hard to believe today, isn’t it?  Oh, wait… “Bonjour !”

We’ve now come down to the lower part  of the village, to the Place Carnot,   which is still very busy today. On the right is the restaurant Le Fournil, located   in the village’s oldest bakery. Part of the house is built into the rock. 

Let’s cross the small square and  go down the Rue Lucien Blanc.  On the left is the village’s small  supermarket and on the right is our   favourite ice cream shop in Bonnieux, which  is open from mid-spring to mid-autumn.  The Place Gambetta on the right is home to  the village market every Friday morning. 

Let’s continue down Rue Lucien  Blanc to Rue Victor Hugo. Et voilà. Let’s now follow  the street to the car park,   with its continuous view of the Eglise Neuve. If you’re watching this walk on YouTube,  don’t forget to hit the like button! 

It really supports the channel and helps  us bring more amazing content to you.  Also, if you haven’t already, be sure  to click on the subscribe button and   turn on the notification bell so you  never miss out on our latest videos.

Let’s cross the roundabout and here we are at  the Pré du Bourg car park, our starting point. Thank you for taking part in  this discovery walk with me.  It was a real pleasure to help you discover  the village of Bonnieux in Provence. 

This walk is just one example  of what you can do in Bonnieux.  There are, of course, other streets and lanes  that you can discover during your visit.  Bonnieux is a village that holds  beautiful surprises for those who love   fine stonework and small-scale heritage! I’ll see you soon for other adventures.

📌 Location: Bonnieux, Provence, South of France

🇬🇧 Bonjour! Welcome to Bonnieux, a charming gem nestled in the heart of Provence!
This picturesque village is perched high above lush valleys, offering stunning views at every turn.
Imagine walking down ancient cobbled streets, surrounded by rustic stone houses that tell tales of centuries past.
In Bonnieux, history greets you at every corner.
There’s always something to explore, from the old church towering at the village’s top to the quaint, narrow streets lined with inviting cafés and artisan shops.
Whether you’re admiring the panoramic vistas from the top or exploring the historical treasures within, Bonnieux is a Provençal treasure waiting to enchant you!
I hope this video will transport you to this beautiful Provençal world and help you relax and learn fascinating cultural facts.

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🎦 Filmed in high-quality 4K in Bonnieux, 28 September 2023.
Turn on optional [CC] English (United Kingdom) captions to follow the commentaries.

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🌐 Learn more about BONNIEUX on the blog!
– Bonnieux in Provence: What to see and do: https://frenchmoments.eu/bonnieux/
– Chasing Autumn in Provence: A Traveller’s Tale: https://frenchmoments.eu/autumn-in-provence/

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📚 Get the eBook “BONNIEUX: A Guided Walk of the Hilltop Village in Provence”
The irresistible companion to your exploration of Bonnieux!
This comprehensive discovery guide takes you on an immersive 15-stop journey spanning 2 km (1.24 mi) of pure enchantment.
Get your copy here 👉 https://sowl.co/s/dxNdN

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✅ Chapter Markers
00:00 Intro
00:39 Start from carpark
01:29 Rue Victor Hugo
03:10 Place du 4 Septembre
04:25 Rue du Portalet
06:32 Rue E. Appy and Place du Moulin à Huile
09:52 Place de la Liberté
10:22 Rue des Pénitents Blancs
12:05 Belvédère
13:48 Upper Church
16:33 Rue du Castellas
21:40 Rue Droite and Rue de l’Ancien Presbytère
26:19 Down to Rue de la République
27:40 Rue de la République
29:17 Rue Voltaire
32:31 Place Carnot and Place Gambetta
34:09 Back to the carpark
35:37 Final words

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🔔 Subscribe!
If you like our videos, give them a like 👍 and subscribe to the French Moments channel.
@FrenchMoments

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📝 Follow along using the transcript!
My commentary during the visit is delivered in English, accented with a touch of my French accent 😉.
To ensure you can easily follow the names of the places we explore and understand the historical dates, I recommend turning on the subtitles!
Click on the TRANSCRIPT button below ⬇️

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” Bonnieux FRANCE 🇫🇷 A Guided Walk 🤩 Hilltop Village in Provence [4k] : https://youtu.be/OLHUQ0LIL8I ”