Abrolhos em Chamas | #SAL #296

Abrolhos em Chamas | #SAL #296

December 31, 1996, the day before arriving in 1997, a passenger on a tourist boat in Abrolhos launches a flare, to celebrate the New Year. This flare, carried by the wind, falls on Redonda Island, populated by a huge concentration of birds with eggs and chicks. According to the

Newspaper O Globo at the time, after destroying all the vegetation in the upper part of the island, the fire traveled down the slope, where there is a large concentration of booby and grazina nests. The difficulties in putting out the fire were immense, especially in such an isolated place, with no resources. It

Burned for eight days, despite the efforts of the Navy and ICMBio. In the previous video I made about Abrolhos, Aurélio Alpoim, who was there at the time, commented: At the turn of the year a cold front came in. Apart from ours, there were only three or four boats supported, two far away.

Tired of diving, I didn’t see the year changing. I slept on the deck with my pillow backpack. I woke up to screams on one of the islands, on fire. The dawn turned red. I lost sleep again. Early in the morning, desperate mothers flew over the island looking for survivors. I remember it

Well. It was horrible. It is not easy to preserve. And it’s possible for a single irresponsibility to become a problem for many years, or forever in the event of an extinction. I keep imagining the taste that remains in my soul for the rest of my life after doing something like this,

Even if I didn’t intend to. On a morning of scattered rain, we left Caravelas for a few more days in Abrolhos. It’s a paradise that I find kind of hard to get tired of, I think.

Zé and Aline from Catamaran 7 Vidas are coming with us . I think that in the Northeast we will still see a lot of these rains scattered here and there. The wind today was very light and from the east, so it was upwind and

On the engine. Plotzinski. Speak, my love. Are we arriving in Abrolhos again? We are arriving in Abrolhos again, it has become routine. How beautiful, spending Christmas and maybe New Year, depending

On the weather. What a luxury huh? What is this? It’s very luxurious! How much does the flight there cost? It does not have. That plane that takes off and lands on the water. Seaplane? Yes, this one can. But it’s very bad

To sleep. There is no barbecue. Can you imagine if there was a seaplane with a barbecue, then it would become a success, that’s it. Just don’t barbecue while you’re flying. Plane with barbecue, that would be good. I would be scared, I don’t want to.

After a few hours, the islands appear on the horizon. And so we arrive in Abrolhos. Two people and a cat. In the boat at the back, there are two people and six cats. National Park, National Park, National Park, here is the first balance. Hello good afternoon. I’m approaching

The island. I wanted permission to take a poita. Positive, you can grab a free poita and feel free. At that point there was already a good wind, but still quite against it. And we were already arriving, so there wasn’t much point in setting sail. Once again in

Abrolhos, and today we are going to pay a visit to its Lighthouse, one of the most powerful in the world in terms of range, with more than 50 miles of range, and which is located on the largest island in the archipelago,

The island of Santa Bárbara. I was lucky enough to do it on the same day together with Fábio, Cecília and Igor from Plankton. I interviewed them in episodes 4 and 110. We were welcomed on the beach by Brazilian Navy personnel. The island at low tide, when it exposes the rocks,

Looks very alien. Desolate, but it is full of life behind that impression. The military presence on the island is very old. I couldn’t find exactly when it became permanent, probably along with the lighthouse, but the name of the archipelago was already present in the Battle

Of Abrólhos, in 1631. This battle was between the Portuguese-Spanish Navy, remembering that Portugal belonged to Spain between 1580 to 1640, and the Dutch Navy. 800 people lost their lives, 400 were injured or became prisoners, and 124 cannons were lost. This battle ended up stopping Dutch expansion in Brazil, leaving

It only further north, like Pernambuco. So, in a way, it shaped Brazil as it is today. The island, which is administered by the Brazilian Navy, has some houses for those on duty here

. It’s a very pretty little village. One of the houses is given to the ICMBio team, which takes care of the preservation of the National Park area here. And there is another one at the back for important visits, Navy officials or even the president, as happened in 2009. The houses have electricity,

Supplied by three diesel generators that take turns, have internet and water collected from rain. On all ceilings there are gutters that fall into different cisterns. But it doesn’t rain much on the island and, sometimes, there are dry periods. These houses were built during World War II

, when the Navy felt the need for a permanent garrison here on the island. There is a small chapel dedicated to Santa Bárbara, who also gives the island its name. And it’s not for nothing, since Santa Bárbara is usually invoked for protection against lightning,

Thunder and storms. And let’s say it’s one of the biggest challenges here in the archipelago. It is a small altar shaped like a whale’s tail. Not many people live on the island at any one time, but it ends up having a small village feel and even a certain cozy atmosphere.

There is a seismograph here, although it is not a very unstable region. And the next place we will visit here on this short path is the lighthouse. Today surrounded by goats, as I said in the other episode, they roam free. And maybe they’ve been around for a long time,

Centuries even. Besides humans, they are perhaps the only other mammals on the island, as rats and domestic animals are no longer found here. I’m fascinated by lighthouses. They are incredible works, especially this one from the 19th century, which were cast iron pieces brought from

Europe and assembled here. Some buildings are marked as 1878, but the lighthouse is a little older. Around the 19th century, a series of modern lighthouses began to appear around the world. Here the lighthouse shone for the first time, in 1861, during the reign of D. Pedro II. A cast iron tower

, built by brothers Myers and Taylor at the Barnier, Bernard Bernard and Touraine factory in France. Beautiful to this day. Made in a time when things were truly built to last. If the lighthouse is a painting, I would say that the frame can be more beautiful than it. Every

Day for 162 years, this change from day to night, as the sun gives way to the flashes of the lighthouse, is magical in a different way. With a few humans, and boobies as witnesses… Oh and goats too. They are usually out there. Every lighthouse I’ve visited is a kind of

Museum. A place that radiates the history of that place. And in this case, here, also the history of technology from more than a century and a half ago, from a time when almost everything was made of cast iron. Since 1948, there has been a book here recording who visited this place,

Like any good museum. Here there are photos, memories of the period when the island was almost a place for oil extraction. There are still remains of this construction, including. A point that could have greatly changed the history of the island. In this other photo you can see trucks on the island,

Which also explains the more or less clean stone paths. Much here is original, like the stairs, the windows, the air intakes. Everything came ready from France, only assembled here. Including the original headlight rotation mechanism, the rope. Today there is a more modern one in operation,

But this one can be used in emergencies and is kept working. It looks a lot like a watch machine, only in a bigger size. A time when light came from kerosene, which was already an improvement over

Whale oil. From here you can have a view of the entire island, which competes with the drone for the best image of the island. Arriving at the lighthouse itself, it is a work of art. It sits on top of a mercury base

So there is no friction when rotating. And the small mechanical engine, the rope, managed to have this effect. So, this magic that has happened almost 60 thousand times since it was opened, every early evening, puts on its show again. There are 5 islands here in the archipelago. I ended up talking

More about Santa Bárbara Island, which is the largest and has some structure. There is also Ilha Redonda, which had a fire, which I mentioned at the beginning of the video. And it is open to visitors, but disembarking is a little more complicated. There are two islands where disembarking is not permitted

And are only accessed by scientists. They end up being a laboratory to understand how a contactless island develops. And so it is possible to compare with others. One of them is Guarita, which is very small, practically a pile of stones. And the Sueste island, which is bigger, but also quite complicated to disembark.

Finally, there is Siriba Island, which is the one I’m going to visit right now. I took my boat there, where the ICMBio staff were already waiting for me. Zé and Aline dos Sete Vidas went together too.

It’s a half mile from where we were leaning on Santa Barbara Island. With the color of this water, even the boat ride is worth it. The water is very beautiful here and has this clear blue

That is difficult to explain and that I haven’t seen in many other places. And on this path I came across a turtle, this one, on the surface. Then I imagined putting the camera underwater and seeing it… But when I watched the recording later,

I saw two more turtles. This one and the other one that now appears in the corner below. You get off on this island and there is a stone beach on the north side, which is not a very easy landing either.

ICMBio promotes tours here with tourists, but this also depends on the weather conditions. This soil with many rocks is also home to many autbás, as is Santa Bárbara Island. We also monitor the brown booby, which is there at the tip, and also the grazinas. The girls

Went out to do the monitoring, and today we have already done the monitoring there in Redonda too, of brown boobies and grazina. Today there were many puppies around here. It’s impressive how big they already start out, right? The juvenile is sometimes

The size of… This one is almost… but even the one with the feathers, a fluff like that, is giant, right? It’s big, it is. Most human beings would find this rocky beach uncomfortable, despite the undeniable beauty and clarity of the waters. But for a booby,

I’m sure it’s paradise, the place to make a life, or several lives, as they reproduce a lot here. On the beach floor, storms wash away corals and shells of many different and very large types. The park staff sometimes separates some of these items

And creates a kind of micro-museum to teach visitors a little about the ecology here. It’s a small kingdom of boobies, around 300 meters long by 100 meters wide, but extremely important for a species that here in Bahia is already threatened. And here, the 70

Kilometers that separate this island from the mainland is already an important protection for this kingdom. The archipelago has two species of boobies, white and brown. When they are puppies, it is a little difficult to identify each species. This one is an adult brown, a male. Well,

They are very similar species, like that, but they don’t mix. And they are different species, for example, from the one in Noronha, which has a slightly reddish beak, and the legs too. So, there are several species of Atobá. And it’s really cool because I was… I’m not yet,

I was very ignorant about bird species. And this experience here has been really cool and it will be very special when you see them crossing paths with us at Balanço too. There is also concern here about bird flu. There have been no cases here, nothing,

But the recommendation is not to touch any dead animals, have as little contact as possible with animal feces and such, but there have been no cases. At this time, there are actually few birds around here. They spend most of their time fishing for fish and squid,

Almost the entire day flying over the sea to return at the end of the day to feed their young and rest. I found a little corner at the tip of the island, where the low tide created some mini natural pools. And I tried to see some life there, small fish, crustaceans.

Sometimes I look at this scenario here and it seems… You know those science fiction movies where you see other habitable worlds, but there are no human beings, like, Interstellar and such? Seems a bit. Because I do not know. There’s nothing so alien here,

But you notice that in certain parts of the islands, almost in most of them, nobody has moved a stone, you know, nobody has done any kind of work, they haven’t cleaned it, you know, which is wonderful, which it is very cool. Which isn’t exactly true. These coconut trees here,

Like the ones on the island next door, no one knows who planted them, but they’re not from here. Perhaps old lighthouse keepers or fishermen, when there was no ecological concern like there is today. This is something that emerged in the 60s and 70s. Despite having origins in the 19th century,

With Thoreau, for example, a philosopher who is considered one of the fathers of ecology. But it’s enough for me, representing perhaps the closest we can get to an untouched place on the Brazilian coast, at least. Thank goodness there are people here, at least since 1983, when the park was created, to ensure it

Always stays like this. In fact, as for the park staff, we were very well received here, both by the navy and the ICMBio employees. They were very kind. There are rules, of course, since this is a conservation park, but I think they are very reasonable.

Of the entire Brazilian coast, there are few points that are fully preserved like this. And even for those who want to fish, wow, there are a few miles of the park where it is possible to fish, but not here where it is a sanctuary. You could feel their dedication to preserving and

Making the public understand and learn about this preservation as well. Because there’s no point preserving it just here either. It is important that the public leaves with this learning, with this desire to preserve in other places as well. This is a place that alone will not make a difference,

But it is capable of spreading this custom to other places. Between this island and Redonda Island, there is a shallow pool where I found those turtles. I think this was the time to take a dive and reconnect with them. With this water, not diving here is almost a sin.

Diving here is a little different than diving on Santa Barbara Island. There’s more sand at the bottom, the vegetation is different, and it’s a little shallower too. Not much, but at least there’s a plateau here, about 5 meters deep, more or less. This makes

Many fish different from there too. So, there she was. The first turtle I saw on this dive. Then I saw a beautiful friar. And another turtle. I think diving is the closest to flying that we can get without having technology. There are poitas

Here in this space and depending on the weather it can be calm here too. It’s not as sheltered as Santa Bárbara, but on some occasions it’s very interesting. I saw a series of corals that look like fruits, which I hadn’t seen there in Santa Bárbara and I couldn’t say the name.

If anyone knows, leave it in the comments. There are many turtles here. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many. They feed on the plants below, on the algae, stay in place for a while, create a cradle with their fins, but then leave in search of another. It’s awesome to swim with them.

Some of them let me get very close, and many of them have rings, which shows that they have already been captured and marked. This way you can find out details such as their migration, age,

Etc. Some of them let me swim with them and others didn’t really want to talk. They were buried there, eating in the back. And as soon as I got even close, they left. He didn’t spend much time there

With me. Then it was better to leave them alone for a while. That was a day that I came home with something new in me. It’s not every day that we have this chance. So, I think it’s important

To value and remember each one of them, because they are special. I would still do one more dive, this time in a scuba dive, to see the chapeirões, which are structures sometimes 20, 30 meters high, formed over thousands of years by corals.

These formations are also a symbol of Abrolhos and I didn’t want to leave here without seeing them. Ready to dive in too? It’s going to be that dive there. This side, to the east of the archipelago,

Is a bit dangerous to navigate if you don’t know it, precisely because of these formations. There are some poitas stuck in places that are important for diving, like the one we are going to now. With that cap on, man, I look like Pica-Pau, you know what I mean? Here,

Far from the islands, the transparency of the water, as expected, is even greater. Going down a few meters, you can start to see something. It is a giant structure, the size of a huge building. Even in water like this, you can’t see it

All. At least on the day I was here. It’s a wonderful experience, almost fantastic. It’s like discovering another planet. We stayed a few more days later. We spent Christmas and were going to spend New Year, but a weather forecast was going to make it very uncomfortable between

Christmas and New Year. So, we decided to leave. They were magical days. More than 20 days, if you consider the other period we were here. Every few days people come here and stuff, and then everything changes, but… Now at the end of the year, wow, very few people came here.

So, it’s practically us and Cat 7 Vidas here. And then, there was a climate like this… I don’t know, it seems like the world has shrunk, I don’t know, like, there’s been some apocalypse, and we’re the last

Survivors, every now and then a boat appears out of nowhere and then, like, you see So, then the radio calls, it’s a pretty cool situation. Obviously I prefer to have the internet here, but another part is lost, which is to be more isolated, like

Just using the radio, but that’s okay. Well, of the 200 million Brazilians, there are two boats here with four people, there are people who are obviously working, I’m not counting them. It’s a privilege, I think it must be working here, but they’re working hard there,

Right? But for us to be able to enjoy this place is really awesome, really cool, the sunset is amazing. We are deeply connected to the nature around us. We evolve along with it, taking, transforming and giving back. This exchange is not always fair. Sometimes she is petty, other times

Cold and indifferent. But there are many moments of harmony and transcendence. We came from her, from nature, but at some point we decided to separate ourselves. We said that everything that is not done by us, at least intentionally, is in fact natural. If you stop to think,

We are like a child of nature, who decided to leave home and who, as a teenager, denies it and wants to get away from his parents for a while. Maybe when we are more sure of who we are, more adults, we will stop mistreating those who gave us life.

And perhaps, metaphorically, visiting parks like this, well preserved, is as if we were visiting our parents’ house. So behave yourself. This is the time for me to extend my hat to you as a street artist. The episodes will

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Em nossa segunda viagem a Abrolhos soubemos de histórias que marcaram o destino da ilha. Como no último dia de 1996, quando um sinalizador lançado de um barco de turismo provocou um incêndio que durou 8 dias e se tornou notícia em todo o país.

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Fontes:
https://www.icmbio.gov.br/parnaabrolhos/guia-do-visitante.html

O Caribe não é aqui: estudo revela aspectos que distinguem Abrolhos dos demais recifes de corais

https://agencia.fapesp.br/a-historia-geologica-de-abrolhos/536
https://www.icmbio.gov.br/parnaabrolhos/pesquisa-cientifica.html
https://www.locus.ufv.br/bitstream/123456789/10053/1/texto%20completo.pdf
https://sappg.ufes.br/tese_drupal//tese_14642_Duar

#veleiro #abrolhos