All Brunswick, No Ham…: Braunschweig [23×23]

♫ Title Music ♫ It’s August 2023 and I’m in a  post-war rebuilt medieval marketplace,   home to one of the at one time five  town halls in the city of Braunschweig. ♫ Title Music ♫ Located on formerly marshy land around the River  Oker, the settlement of modern day Braunschweig,  

Anglicised to Brunswick started at  some point in the 9th century. The   river was diverted to form a ring  around the city centre and wooden   piles and reed mats helped to stabilize  the land so that it could be built upon.

Up until the 12th century the city was rules by  the Saxon noble family of the Brunonids before,   through marriage, it fell to the House  of Guelf which ultimately ruled the city,   on and off, until the final Duke of Brunswick  

Ernest August was forced to abdicate in  November 1918 at the end of World War I. In 1142 Henry the Lion became the duke  of Saxony and made the city his capital. During the middle ages Brunswick  became an important centre of trade,  

A member of the Hanseatic League and one  of the economic and political centre of   Northern Europe, with the Duchy of Brunswick  a constituent state of the Holy Roman Empire. In 1806 the city fell to the French during  the Napoleonic Wars and became part of the  

Kingdom of Westphalia. Following the Congress  of Vienna, which divided up Europe following   the final defeat of Napoleon, the Duchy  of Brunswick was re-established, though   its independence only lasted until 1871 when it  became a constituent state of the German Empire.

After the Landtag elections of 1930 Brunswick  became the second state in Germany where the   Nazi’s participated in Government and in  1932 the state of Brunswick granted the,   at that point still Austrian, Adolf  Hitler, German citizenship opening the   door for him to run in the 1932  German presidential election.

Following the Nazi seizure of power the  following year the city became home to   several state institutions, and the region  became one of the centres of the German   arms industry, which made Brunswick  a target for Allied bombing raids. Up until October 15th, 1944 the old town  of Brunswick was the largest homogeneous  

Ensemble of half-timbered houses in Germany,  by the following morning less than 10% of the   city was still standing as an Allied air raid  burnt the city to the ground in a firestorm. At the end of the war the Free State of Brunswick,  which had existed since the Dukes abdication  

In 1918, was dissolved into the newly formed  Lower Saxony. Just 35Km to the east the border   that divided the continent for the next 45 years  fell and Brunswick found itself in West Germany,   cut off from the areas, now in East Germany, that  it had traditionally had strong economic ties to.

The city’s renaissance in many ways is linked  to the city’s palace, reduced to ruins during   the bombing raids, and left as an empty shell  until the 1960s when it was finally torn down. In 2005 the first stones were laid on a  rebuilding of the palace which opened in  

2007 the façade a faithful reconstruction  of the 1841 palace, though inside it today   houses a modern shopping centre, rather  than the halls of power of a dukedom. One wing of the rebuilt palace contains a  small museum, housing reconstructions of  

Some of the rooms that would have existed  in the original palace, including a salon,   music room, study, audience chamber  and a recreation of the Throne room. Though the 1841 palace isn’t  actually the original palace   as the current Schloss-Arkaden is the  4th version of the building on the site.

Work on the original palace was started in  1718 with the palace being occupied by the   dukes from 1753. That building was burnt  down during anti-monarchy riots in 1830.   The second version was completed in 1841,  though on the night of February 24th, 1865  

A technical defect with a stove caused  a massive fire that destroyed the north   wing and the northwestern part of the main  building, requiring the palace to be rebuilt. That third version lasted up until the  third fire and destruction during the   allied bombing raids of World War II.  Left unprotected against the weather  

The ruins deteriorated and by 1960 the  only option was to demolish the remains,   and turn the area into a park until the  construction of the Schloss-Arkaden from 2005. The reconstructed rooms inside the museum  give an impression of how the inside of the  

Palace would have looked, pulled from  the original construction plans of the   1841 palace. The throne room is an even closer  reconstruction as samples of the wall fabrics   and carpet were found in the archives  and so these could be recreated exactly.

In a slightly worrying turn of events, whilst I  was in Brunswick the palace had a fourth attempt   at burning itself down, though this time the  local fire brigade got it under control quickly. Located between the palace and the heart of the   old town of Brunswick is the  current Rathaus or Town Hall,  

Built between 1894 and 1900 to replace the Old  Town Hall located deeper into the Altstadt. The Rathaus backs onto the remains  of the Dankwarderode castle. A castle has existed on this site  since at least the 11th century,   through the current building is a late  19th early 20th century reconstruction  

Of a 17th century renaissance style  castle that was built on the site. The castle forms one side of the Burgplatz,  the centre point of the city, surrounded   by other important buildings including the  city’s Cathedral – the Braunschweiger Dom. At the time of visiting the  Burgplatz was being used as  

An arena for open-air opera performances  so only part of the square was visible,   but a small model located in the South  Western corner of the square shows the   layout of buildings in this part of the city  including the town hall, castle and Cathedral.

Official the Cathedral Church of St Blaise in  Brunswick the Braunschweiger Dom was founded   in 1173 by Henry the Lion the Duke of Bavaria  and Saxony opposite his Castle. The Cathedral   still houses the mortal remains of Henry  and his second wife Mathilde of England.

The Nazi’s took an interest in  the crusading nature of Henry,   including some of his persecution of Slavic  people, fitting with Nazi ideology, so the   cathedral was turned into a national shrine,  stripping the building of anything that had   been added since the days of Henry and removing  all Christian worship elements of the building.

Surprisingly, given the damage meted out to the  rest of the city in the Allied bombing raids,   the cathedral only suffered slight damage and so,   following the end of the war the  building was quickly retuned to   it’s purpose as a place of worship with  most of the Nazi design changes reversed.

Underneath the main altar is the crypt of  the church which houses the remains of the   Dukes of Brunswick from the  17th to the 19th century,   along with the relocated remains of  some of the predecessors of Henry the   Lion that were relocated to the cathedral  after it’s construction from other churches.

In the lowest part of the crypt, and beneath the monument   above it on the church floor are the  stone coffins of Henry and Mathilde. Less than 500m from the Cathedral and the  Burgplatz is the Altstadtmarkt and Altstadtrathaus   the Market and Town Hall of the Old Town.

Originally the city had been  divided into five boroughs,   each with their own town hall, market  square and cathedral. The area that   is todays Altstadt was the wealthiest of  these boroughs and when they eventually   merged into a single city this boroughs  Town Hall became the city’s Town Hall.

Most of the buildings were gutted by fire  during the air raids of World War II,   but the façades of the Church of St Martini, the  Town Hall, and the Cloth Hall survived and were   able to be rebuilt – along with a relocated  and reconstructed half timber house to give  

A view of what the area would have looked like  before the near total destruction of the city. Today the Altstadtrathaus is part of the  city museum housing various exhibits. On   the entry floor there’s an exhibition  on the industrial history of the city ♫ Music ♫

As well as a model of how the city  would have looked in the 16th century,   complete with the five different borough  markets, town halls and churches. ♫ Music ♫ The lower floor charts the story of the city from  pre-history through to the Second World War. ♫ Music ♫

Just beyond the Old Town is the Alte Waage  or Old Scale. The building was originally   built in 1534 as a storage and weighing  house on the Wool market, but by 1671 the   building was no longer being used as a weighing  house and had started to fall into disrepair.

It was extensively repaired in 1854 though  not to the original historical structure,   the errors in this repair finally being  reversed in a renovation that took place   between 1937 and 1939 in preparation to turn  the building into a home for the Hitler Youth.

The building survived most of the war without  any damage, but on February 10th, 1944 it received   several direct hits, and the remains were totally  destroyed in the firestorm that swept through the   city following the October 15th, 1944 bombing  raid. After the war the rubble was removed  

And land levelled and the space was used as a  market place and parking lot for several decades. Reconstruction work started in 1991, with  work being carried out as true as possible   to the original building including only using  wooden dowls and joints rather than nails or  

Screws in the framework. The reconstruction  was completed in 1994 and today it houses the   administration and training building  of the city’s adult education centre. The Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum was one of the  first museums in Germany to open to the public  

– throwing it’s doors open in 1754, just a year  after the British Museum in London. The museum was   renamed to it’s current name in 1927 after it’s  founder Anton Ulrich, the Duke of Braunschweig The founding collection is based on the art  and natural history cabinet of Duke Charles I,  

A private collection of art, historic artifacts  and curiosities that the Duke had collected.   Over the years the collection has been expanded  on and today has around 4,000 works on display. The museum occupied various buildings in it’s  early years before it moved to it’s current  

Location in 1887, with the building surviving  the second world war relatively unscathed,   though it did mean that as a intact  structure, the side wings of the museum   were requisitioned for use by the British  military government between 1945 and 1949. The building was completely renovated  and refurbished in the early years  

Of the 21st Century, fully  reopening in October 2016. Today the upper floor houses the sculptures  and applied arts artefacts of the collection ♫ Music ♫ Whilst the 1st floor houses the  picture galleries arranged in themes. ♫ Music ♫

A short distance away from the main building  of the museum is the State Natural History   Museum which can trace it roots back to the  same Ducal Art and Natural History Cabinet,   the two collections were split and eventually the   natural history collection found it’s  way into its current home in 1937.

Knowing how to attract the crowds,   the outside of the museum is home  to a collection of dinosaur models. Inside there are a number of dioramas  showing taxidermized animals in the   kind of environment they would likely be found in. ♫ Music ♫

Though some of them being perhaps a little  more realistic than they need to be. Upstairs the museum also houses the  skeletons of a couple of dinosaurs. ♫ Music ♫ Whilst in the basement there is  a small aquarium and terrarium. ♫ Music ♫

The Benedictine Monastery of St Mary and St  Aegidius was founded in 1115 and survived up   until the reformation with the monastery being  abolished in 1543, in the following centuries   the buildings had various uses including as  a prison, execution site and concert hall.

In 1902 the Fatherland Museum moved into the  site which eventually became the Brunswick   State Museum. Following the Second World  War the former church building that formed   part of the site was converted back into  a Church and set up as the city’s main  

Catholic place of worship, leaving the  museum with a smaller space than before,   resulting in them opening a new museum on the  Burgplatz, but the museum retained the monastery   rooms as an exhibition space and to house  avery important part of their collection.

In 1924, with the Jewish population of Brunswick  already declining, Synagogues were being closed   as there was no longer a community to  support them. To preserve the history,   the fittings of one of the Synagogues were  donated to the museum and went on display.

Over the following years a number of Jewish  families donated other object related to their   worship and culture to the museum. As they were treated as museum objects they managed to avoid the destruction that the Nazi’s carried out on all other Jewish property and after the war were put back on display

Inside the chapel of the monetary – giving an insight into the Jewish population of the city in the years before the rise of the Nazi’s. ♫ Title Music ♫ Braunschweig Hauptbahnhof has regular regional  express trains to Hannover Hauptbahnhof, taking just under the hour to make  the journey

Where it’s possible to connect to Hannover Airport which has  connections across much of Europe. High speed ICE trains run every other hour  to Berlin taking about 90 where it’s possible   to connect to Berlin Brandenburg Airport,  and in the opposite direction to Frankfurt  

In three hours where you can connect to  Frankfurt Airport, Germany’s largest and   most connected airport and one of Europe’s  major hubs with flights across the globe. ♫ Title Music ♫

I’ve headed to the once powerful city of Braunschweig (Brunswick), to explore the multiple town halls, the 4 times rebuilt castle and it’s many museums

Altstadtmarkt
Altstadtrathaus (https://www.braunschweig.de/english/culture/museum)
Botanischer Garten (https://www.tu-braunschweig.de/ifp/garten)
Braunschweiger Dom (https://www.braunschweigerdom.de)
Braunschweigisches Landesmuseum – Hinter Aegidien (https://3landesmuseen-braunschweig.de)
Burgplatz
Herzog Anton Ulrich-Museum (https://3landesmuseen-braunschweig.de)
Schloß
Schlossmuseum (https://www.schlossmuseum-braunschweig.de)
Staatliches Naturhistorisches Museum (https://3landesmuseen-braunschweig.de)

Willkommen in Braunschweig – https://www.braunschweig.de

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Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:31 Background
3:05 Schloßmuseum
4:32 Rathaus
5:00 Dankwarderode Castle
5:14 Burgplatz
5:55 Braunschweiger Dom
7:56 Altstadtrathaus
11:00 Alte Waage
12:18 Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum
15:06 Staatliches Naturhistorisches Museum
17:28 Landesmuseum: Hinter Aegidien
18:52 Getting There
19:22 Outro

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