Gordes FRANCE 🇫🇷 A Guided Walk 🤩 The Acropolis of Provence [4k]
Bonjour, I’m Pierre from French Moments and in this video, I’ll take you for a walk through the hilltop village of Gordes in Provence. We’ll set off on a hike and reach the bottom of the village before walking up the hill to the lively upper village centre.
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Let’s begin our tour at the Gendarmerie car park in the north-west of the village. On the left, the Route de la Combe leads directly to the old village and its shops. To the right, the D15 leads to Cavaillon and Avignon. We’re going to follow the D15, away from the village.
But don’t worry, we’re going to follow a route that will give us some superb views of the village, and we’ll be returning to explore the old streets of Gordes a little later in our tour. We’ll be following the D15 road for just over 600 metres.
If you decide to follow the same route, just a word of caution: watch out for traffic as there are no pavements in some places. Walking along the road can be dangerous, especially when there’s a lot of traffic, such as on sunny summer days or at weekends.
But having said that, we’re about to discover some fantastic views of the hilltop village of Gordes. The village of Gordes is perched on the edge of the Vaucluse Plateau, facing the Luberon mountain. The houses were built from the stone of the rock on which the village was built.
In 2023, Gordes was voted the most beautiful village in the world by the American magazine “Travel+Leisure”. The charm of the village lies in its limestone, drystone walls and terraced layout of stone houses and gardens. Ok, let’s go a bit faster to save time! Because this part of the route can sometimes
Be boring, especially when the view of the village is hidden behind a wall. Now we’re getting some fine views of the hilltop village rising above the Provence countryside. At the top of the village, you can clearly make out the castle and the church,
Whose façade has recently been restored. In a moment, we’ll find ourselves opposite, at the very top of the village. You can imagine the climb I’m going to have to endure! I think all first-time visitors to Gordes will agree with me: when you discover Gordes for the first time with this view,
You’re impressed by so much beauty. It’s no coincidence that Gordes is part of the association of the Most Beautiful Villages of France. “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France” is a French association and certification brand created in 1982 that brings together a network of more than 176 villages.
Other neighbouring villages in the network are Vénasque, Ménerbes and Roussillon. This part of the road is a little safer for pedestrians, allowing us to admire the magnificent views. However, you’ll have no idea that you’re walking on the edge of a cliff, and it’s forbidden to go near it.
It’s better to stay on the road anyway, and that doesn’t stop us from enjoying the view. All right, let’s go a bit faster! And here we are at the viewpoint of Rocher de Bel Air. It’s the best view of Gordes. Just look at this magnificent picture! Gordes is rightly nicknamed
The Acropolis of Provence. This place is one of the most photographed in Provence and even France. You’ll recognise it from countless tourist brochures, magazines, coffee-table books, and social networks like Instagram. The views are superb at any time of day, but if you want to take photos of the village in the
Sunshine, you’ll need to come in the afternoon. For example, in this video, I was there at around 3.30pm in early October. Some locals call this place “the monkey rock”. This is because, in summer, many foreigners get off their coach for a moment, take a photo,
And then return to their coach without taking the time to explore the village. Also, you don’t need to walk 600 metres from the Gendarmerie car park to admire this view as there’s a car park right next door. But there aren’t many parking spaces,
So it will be difficult to park there in the summer or at the weekend. What’s more, although the car park is free, parking is limited to 5 minutes. At the end of the car park, let’s turn left down the Chemin de Bel Air.
We’ll do better than the tourists coming out of coaches: we’re going to walk to the hilltop village down to the Fontaine Basse district before heading back up to the castle. Few tourists realise it, but this road offers other fantastic views of the hilltop village.
It was a very hot day in early October, and I was glad to be able to walk in the shade. We are making our way gently down the slope of the Bel Air rock towards the bottom of the village. The views from here are breathtaking, aren’t they?
In this video, we’ll be focusing on the hilltop village, but you should be aware that the commune of Gordes contains several other tourist sites that are accessible on foot or by car. These include the village of the Bories. This is a village of around twenty dry-stone huts that was inhabited until the 19th century.
To the north of the village, hidden away at the bottom of a valley, lies the magnificent Notre-Dame de Sénanque abbey. This Cistercian monastery, still in use, is one of the most photographed sites in the region, with its Romanesque architecture and lavender fields.
A few kilometres east of Gordes are the superb Gorges de Véroncle, which form a 7.5-kilometre-long gorge. Much less well known, the Protestant temple in the hamlet of Les Gros is a testament to the Protestant presence in the Luberon.
It is one of five historic Protestant churches in the Luberon, along with those in Lacoste, Lourmarin, Puget and Mérindol. During the Second World War, Gordes was an important site for the Resistance. On 21 August 1944, a week after the landings on the coasts of Provence, a German patrol was severely hounded by
The French Resistance fighters. The following day, the village fell victim to violent reprisals. The Germans set up cannons on the Bel Air rock to bombard the village. These bombardments destroyed a dozen houses, while several others were blown and then set on fire, mainly at the entrances to the town to block
The crossroads and slow down any pursuers. In all, twenty buildings were destroyed due to reprisals or acts of war. Thirteen people from Gordes were killed or executed during the Second World War. It is said that the intervention of a monk from the Abbey of Sénanque with the Kommandantur prevented even more severe violence.
Three days later, on 25 August 1944, the French Forces of the Interior regained control of the area, and the département of Vaucluse was liberated. We arrive at the top of the Fontaine Basse district. The Rue Jean Deyrolle, which climbs to the left, leads directly to the top of the village.
As for us, we’ll continue our descent via the Rue de la Fontaine Basse. We arrive in the Bas de Gordes district at the foot of the village. It’s also known as the “Quartier de Fontaine Basse”, or district of the lower fountain.
It’s an almost forgotten part of Gordes. The charming area is as quiet as a lost village. It is full of stone houses, secret gardens and the scent of fig trees. This is the old wash-house. The presence of water in this area helped
To make it the economic heart of the village from the 18th century until the early 20th century. It was here that tanneries, craftsmen, a silk spinning mill, shopkeepers and cafés flourished. However, a series of earthquakes in the late 19th century and early 20th century damaged the
District, which quickly fell into disuse. And the German bombings in 1944 only made matters worse. This fountain-wash house complex is unique in that it backs onto the cliff. It was located outside the village and fed directly from four water sources. This type of wash-house prevented the
Spread of bacteria through the water and provided more space for washing. It ceased to be used in 1957, when running water finally reached all the houses in the village. Even though the wash-house is no longer in use, it still bears witness to village practices.
On Shrove Tuesday, 1886, a fire destroyed the Fontaine Basse spinning mill. This economic disaster forced the spinner women to walk more than three hours to work in Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Since then, the path they took has been known as the “Chemin des Fileuses” or the spinner women’s path.
See that path on the left? We’ll take it a little later in our exploration of the lower part of Gordes. But first, let’s continue along the Rue de la Fontaine Basse to discover the old stone houses and their arcades.
Let’s take the street of the Chemin de la Calade, which allows cars to serve the houses in the lower part of Gordes. Craft production was mainly focused on leatherwork by tanners and many shoemakers. In the 19th century, the shoemakers’ guild numbered up to 400 workers and craftsmen. In those days,
A single-shoe model was worn on both feet. Then Alexis Godillot, a Parisian manufacturer born in Besançon, came up with the idea of differentiating between right and left shoes. That was in 1854, and this brilliant idea caused the village to lose the military market, and the business collapsed. For the record, Alexis Godillot’s
Shoes were known as “godillots”. The term gradually took on a pejorative connotation, giving rise to the French slang word “godasse”. If you wish, you can continue along the road to the top of the village. But I want to show you another path that is even more picturesque.
Let’s go no further and return to the junction I mentioned earlier. This is the Rue Pavé d’Amour, an old lane lined with old houses, some still in ruins. You can see walls carved directly into the rock. Look at this view: it’s like something from a vintage movie about “la Douce France”.
If you take your time, you’ll find some unusual works of art here and there. We’ll take the path on the left, but before we do, let’s continue along the Rue Pavé d’Amour for a few metres. Do you recognise this place? That’s where we were earlier before I decided
To turn back and show you the Rue Pavé d’Amour. So, let’s retrace our steps again and take the little path that leads upwards. We’ll pass under this archway. It’s a lovely late afternoon light, illuminating the stone facades of the houses.
I really like this part of Gordes. You won’t find many tourists here because you have to earn your way to this part of the village. Either people don’t have the time to get there – especially if they’re travelling on a tourist coach – or they don’t have the right shoes.
As in other villages in the Luberon, stilettos aren’t really appropriate here! We haven’t reached the top of the village yet, but the view is already ‘magnifique’. To appreciate this, let’s walk up to the Calvary. Ok, now, let’s retrace our steps. We’ll resume our ascent by following the cliff that rises to our left.
See that large stone archway against the cliff on the left? That’s the old Chapelle d’En-Bas, the chapel at the bottom of the village. Its stone altar is the only surviving feature. It was somewhere here, in a former oil mill, that Marc Chagall lived from 1939 to 1941. This video doesn’t really give the
Impression that the slope is steep. But I can assure you that it is, and the effort is doubled under the hot afternoon sun. I counted that between the bottom and the top of the village, there’s a 70-metre difference in height. And it takes me around ten minutes to climb those 70 metres.
But I’m holding on, and you can see! “Bonjour, ça va bien?” Now, let’s climb these steps. And these steps also. We’re now level with the Théâtre des Terrasses, which hosts several concerts, including the “Festival des Soirées d’été” which has become a not-to-be-missed summer event in Gordes.
Now we’ve reached the bottom of the upper village if that makes any sense to you! The road leading up to the left gives access to the Belvedere. The view of Gordes overlooks a vast plain of vineyards and olive and almond trees. In the distance, the Luberon mountain dominates the horizon.
The stone structure on the left contains the cellars of the Palais Saint-Firmin, which I had the opportunity to visit. Here, you can discover cave rooms, cisterns, underground staircases and oil mills. It’s a fascinating insight into the history of Gordes.
You’ll learn that the underground of Gordes is a kind of Swiss cheese, a city under the city. We are now on the Rue André Lhote at the upper part of the village. The street takes its name from André Lhote, a painter who embraced cubism in 1912,
And took part in the great adventure of the avant-garde in the early 20th century with Braque, Picasso and many others. This is the Place du Petit-Lavoir. The porch on the left is the site of a former chapel, the Chapelle Saint-Pons.
It has been so desecrated that even the locals no longer know that it was once a place of prayer. In 1938, André Lhote discovered Gordes, where he bought a house in the style of Louis XIII, which he renovated. This is the ornate gateway to André Lhote’s house.
He lived here and introduced his friends to the appeal of the village. Marc Chagall, Jean Grenier, Willy Ronis and others became his neighbours. These artists helped raise Gordes from its disuse in the post-war years. Let’s take the stairs on the left, and we’ll reach the Route Neuve.
This is one of the few shopping streets in Gordes where you’ll find craft shops, art galleries, estate agents, and restaurants. And here on the right is our favourite boulangerie-pâtisserie: Le Fournil de Mamie Jeanne. I recommend their bread and pastries. When we were based in Bonnieux, we often went there.
We won’t go any further because I want to show you one aspect of old Gordes. The Rue du Four is narrow and lined with fairly high houses that must have been the homes of well-to-do craftsmen or shopkeepers until the 17th century. It’s a real pleasure to explore the narrow streets of the village,
With their vaulted passageways, arcades and staircases that give Gordes its unique charm. We arrive in the church area. On the left, under the arcades, are a pharmacy and a bakery. This is a very picturesque part of Gordes. Here is the church of Saint-Firmin. It was built on the foundations of
An old 13th-century church and then rebuilt in the 18th century. Let’s go inside for a quick look. OK, now let’s continue our tour of the upper village of Gordes down the Rue du Belvédère. Then let’s turn right onto the Rue de l’Église,
Which for me is one of the prettiest streets in the upper village. Most of the streets in Gordes are called ”calades”, meaning they are stone-paved lanes. We arrive at the “Porte de Savoie”. This fortified gate was one of the main
Entrances to the village in the Middle Ages. We’re going to pass beneath it so that we can see it from its “Campagne” side, that is, from outside the medieval village. And in the process, we’ll be admiring this pretty corner of Gordes, typically Provençal.
We’re on the Rue Jean Deyrolle. If you walk down it, you’ll come to the lower part of Gordes, in the Fontaine Basse district, where we were earlier. This is the Porte de Savoie as seen from outside the village.
It takes its name from the support given by the Agoult Simiane family to Béatrice de Savoie, Countess of Forcalquier, in the conflict that opposed her against her son-in-law, Charles of Anjou, in the middle of the 13th century. This is the beautiful townhouse of Hôtel de Pluvinel and its fine gateway.
Then, let’s continue our tour up the Rue de la Porte de Savoie. Beatrice of Savoy never accepted the sovereignty of the King of France over her states. Charles of Anjou, the brother of the French king Saint-Louis, married the daughter of Beatrice and inherited Provence.
For two centuries, it remained in the hands of the Anjou family. On the death of King René, Gordes and the county of Provence were incorporated into the kingdom of France in 1481. On the left is the Aumonerie Saint-Jacques. This building housed a hostelry for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.
Pilgrims could take refuge here to spend the night sheltered by the ramparts. But to do so, they had to do what we did: walk to the top of the village. In fact, most pilgrims didn’t make this deviation, preferring to continue along the Calavon valley on
The Via Domitia, which linked Italy to Spain. You can see the church tower. The square tower probably dates from the 14th century. It serves as a bell tower and was probably a belfry in the Middle Ages. Let’s turn left onto the Rue des Clastres, which leads to the Place du Château.
Here is the Castle of Gordes. This Renaissance castle dominates the village. Its construction began in the 11th century, and the medieval fortress was later rebuilt in the 16th century by the powerful Agoult-Simiane family in Renaissance style. We will approach it via the charming Place Genty Pantaly, named after a
Famous chef from the early 20th century. The square is well sheltered from the Mistral wind by the castle and shaded by plane trees. Take a look at the square’s fountain. It was the only water point in the village until 1956, when running water was finally installed in homes.
Today, the castle is used for temporary exhibitions during the summer months. It also houses the tourist office, where you can pick up a map of the village and practical information about the surrounding area. The water from the fountain was reserved for everyday consumption, and washing clothes was forbidden. Remember, to wash your clothes,
You had to go to the wash-house we saw at the very bottom of the village. We’ll now complete our exploration of Gordes by walking around the castle to reach the Place du Château. In front of us stands the Chapel of the White
Penitents, which dates back to the 17th century. For a time, it housed the garage for the village fire engine. And here is the Place du Château, the liveliest square in Gordes, with the war memorial statue commemorating the First World War at its centre.
It is here and in the surrounding streets that the weekly Provencal market is held on Tuesday mornings. It is sometimes said that Gordes is the Saint-Germain-des-Prés of Provence. This is partly true when you realise that the Parisian macaron maker La Durée has opened a shop here.
In 1988, the newspaper Libération wrote that Gordes was “less showbiz than Cannes but more intellectual than Deauville, where the political and literary Parisian elite meets up”. That’s it; we’re leaving the village on the Route de la Combe to reach the Gendarmerie car park.
There are other car parks in the village. Sometimes, I park in the Place Charles de Gaulle car park, which is accessible from the Route de Murs. However, I wouldn’t recommend this car park if you’re coming from the south on the weekend or
On Tuesday mornings because of market day. The first thirty minutes were free during my visits, but a free ticket was required. If you’re watching this on YouTube and you’ve been to this part of Provence, I’d love to hear about your experiences in Gordes!
Drop a comment below and tell us what you loved about it. Thank you for watching this video. It was a real pleasure to bring you along on my discovery walk in the village of Gordes in Provence. I’ll see you soon for other adventures. A bientôt!
📌 Location: Gordes, Provence, South of France
🇬🇧 Bonjour! Welcome to Gordes, a hilltop village in the heart of Provence in the Luberon region.
Perched on a hill, Gordes is rightly nicknamed the “Acropolis of Provence”.
The village will treat you to stunning views over the Luberon.
As you stroll up and down the narrow cobbled streets, you’ll get a snapshot of traditional Luberon villages with well-maintained stone houses, vaulted passageways, arcades and staircases that give Gordes a unique charm.
This guided walk takes you through the steep streets of Gordes in search of the lost village of Fontaine-Basse, the castle and church in the hilltop village, and past sublime vantage points overlooking the village and the surrounding Luberon countryside.
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🎦 Filmed in high-quality 4K in Gordes, 6 October 2023.
Turn on optional [CC] English (United Kingdom) captions to follow the commentaries.
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🌐 Learn more about GORDES on the blog!
– Gordes in Provence: What to see and do: https://frenchmoments.eu/gordes/
– Chasing Autumn in Provence: A Traveller’s Tale: https://frenchmoments.eu/autumn-in-provence/
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📚 Get the eBook “MÉNERBES: A Guided Walk of the Charming Village in Provence”
The irresistible companion to your exploration of Ménerbes!
This comprehensive discovery guide takes you on an immersive 10-stop journey spanning 1.8 km (1.2 mi) of pure enchantment.
Get your copy here 👉 https://sowl.co/s/5qv1A
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✅ Chapter Markers
00:00 Intro
01:01 Parking de la Gendarmerie
05:00 Rocher de Bel Air (Belvedere)
10:19 District of Fontaine-Basse
15:59 Rue Pavé d’Amour
18:06 Ascent to the Upper Village
24:36 Rue André Lhote
27:02 Rue du Four
28:03 Church District
29:40 Porte de Savoie
32:19 Castle and Place Genty Pantaly
34:30 Place du Château
35:42 Back to the car park
36:22 Final words
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@FrenchMoments
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📝 Follow along using the transcript!
My commentary during the visit is delivered in English, accented with a touch of my French accent 😉.
To ensure you can easily follow the names of the places we explore and understand the historical dates, I recommend turning on the subtitles!
Click on the TRANSCRIPT button below ⬇️
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” Gordes FRANCE 🇫🇷 A Guided Walk 🤩 The Acropolis of Provence [4k] : https://youtu.be/IlKDADKHhyA ”
1 Comment
I'm delighted to present my new video of a guided walk around Gordes that I took on a beautiful sunny day in October. Thanks for your likes and shares!
✅ Chapter Markers
00:00 Intro
01:01 Parking de la Gendarmerie
05:00 Rocher de Bel Air (Belvedere)
10:19 District of Fontaine-Basse
15:59 Rue Pavé d'Amour
18:06 Ascent to the Upper Village
24:36 Rue André Lhote
27:02 Rue du Four
28:03 Church District
29:40 Porte de Savoie
32:19 Castle and Place Genty Pantaly
34:30 Place du Château
35:42 Back to the car park
36:22 Final words