Day Seven Monday 22 Gite Bon Abri Champex-d’en haut 1434m to Chalets de Charamillon 1850m France
Distance 12.83 miles (20.5km)
Duration of Walk 7 Hours 41 mins
Average Pace 36 Min/Mile
Steps 42711
Elevation Gained 5035 feet (1535m)
Fortunately breakfast was better than dinner, with muesli, bread and coffee. It was a beautiful sunny day. We walked up through the pine and larch forests to Alp Bovine farm 1987m, stopping for a snack. But when leaving, the whole path was blocked by a herd of cows-not my favourite things, and rather scary. Continuing, eventually the trees clear, and we were treated to fantastic views through the Rhone valley to Lake Geneva.
Arriving in the shop /small cafe on the main road in Forclaz1527m, we found as we were still in Switzerland it was rather expensive, and we made a very amateur mistake of not purchasing anything. A mistake indeed as when we got to Trient1279m everywhere was shut. Then taking the path from le Peuty we walked 2.5 hours up mostly through forest, then above the tree line. This is one of the steepest and longest ascents of the TMB, similar to leaving Courmayeur. Laura again was waiting for us at the Col de Balme 2191m, the border of Switzerland and France. Mont Blanc is seen for the first time since Refugio Bonatti.
It is at this point that the circle is nearing completion and the end of the walk comes into view. However, the only accommodation that we had managed to book was off the main path, on a variant . Our path leading south/straight on here, rather than the main path to the right. This is also a wet weather route.
We arrived at Chalets de Charamillon1850m, from here there is a chair lift to link with the ski lifts in Chamonix. The views down the Chamonix valley to Mont Blanc, the Aiguilles Rouges and the final days of our walk are sublime. It had been a long hot afternoon, we sat out on deckchairs, relaxing, next to our boots and managed to dry our clothes still wet from the previous days’ washing.
We had a nice room for three, again the shower block was in a different building but nice. We ate the most delicious meal of the trip, with soup, chicken, and apple tart, and ordered picnics for the next day. The past few days of walking had been very quiet on the path, perhaps walkers were just staying at different locations from us, not many people were coming the other way, except for a couple of cyclists.
Day Eight Tuesday 23 Chalets de Charamillon 1850m France to Refuge de la Flegere 1877m
Distance 6.73 miles (10.8km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 19 mins
Average Pace 56 Min/Mile
Steps 31113
Elevation Gained 2507 feet (762m)
Following a great breakfast we walked downhill to Le Tour, and Montroc, subsequently becoming slightly lost, then arriving by some beautiful houses in Tre Le Champ. After an easy start to the day, the hard work starts once more, climbing to the Grand Balcon Sud. Ibex, Chamois, and vultures can all be spotted, so keep a good lookout . On this route ladder sections bolted into precipitous rock are used to negotiate a band of cliffs and cannot be avoided, so if suffering from vertigo choose a different route. The longest ladder is 30m up a sheer rock face, and is very exposed in places, rungs, platforms and timber steps are also used. The ladders
should be safe, but beware of others climbing above, who may accidently dislodge stones. If you think the ladders are scary, look out for very brave rock climbers on the Aiguillette d’Argentiere needles.
After the needles, the path splits at Tete aux Vents2132m with a large cairn. We took the lower route Grand Balcon Sud, one of the most famous and popular routes in the Alps. There are spectacular ever-changing views over to Mont Blanc-with its glaciers, shattered rocks, snow domes and icy pinnacles. It took 1.5 hours to Refuge de la Flegere 1877m. Laura unfortunately began to have problems with her knee.
At dinner again we sat making new friends, whilst eating pasta with tuna and tomato, potatoes with cheese, and apple tart. We ordered sandwiches for the next day. We slept in a large full dormitory. After dinner, for a change we sat outside with fellow hikers, with views down to the valley watching the lights in Chamonix gradually coming on. Straight across is the massive of Mont Blanc, with its ribbons of glaciers, looking ominous as it gradually got dark.
The refuge is at the top of a chairlift, and has subsequently been closed for a season whilst the chair lift was fixed. This caused many problems for hikers, with decisions to be made of alternative accommodation. Otherwise the walk can be ended here, by catching the chairlift, if open, straight down to Chamonix.
Day Nine Wednesday 24 Refuge de la Flegere 1877m to Les Houches 1000m
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