Day Four Friday 19 Cabane de Combal 1968m via Courmayeur to Refugio Bertone 2000m
Distance miles 16.5 km
Duration of Walk 9 Hours17 mins
Average Pace Min/Mile 0
Steps 41432
Elevation Gained 3610feet (1100m)
Following a breakfast of bread, biscuits, and coffee, we left at 7.30am. It was a beautiful climb up through a pine forest past a couple of ruins, before following the side of the valley, spotting marmots along the way to a high point so far of 2430m. This section of the walk contains some of the best views of the southern face of Mont Blonc. We called into Refuge Maison Vieille 1956m for coffee and croissants, surrounded by ski lifts, overlooking the ski resort of Courmayeur. Unfortunately the landscape then changes, maybe it would look better covered in snow, instead of barren ski runs. Part of the path was loose underfoot, probably caused by too much erosion.
Walking downhill, we were alerted to the shouts of someone in distress. It turned out a lady and her dog were stuck on a precarious stony slope. Dave removed his rucksack and climbed down to rescue the lady and her dog. It transpired that the lady had been trying to rescue the dog, and got stuck. It all ended well, Dave just
getting a few scratches from the undergrowth. We continued down the dusty 4WD track, such a contrast to the beautiful scenery of the previous 3 days.
On arrival in Courmayeur 1,224m we quickly visited the library to pick up some WIFI. We had not realised that as it was lunchtime most shops and bars were closed, and not re-opening until 3.30pm. Fortunately a pizza take-out restaurant was open, whilst eating we met up with Laura and Will again. It was a shame the shops were closed as we would have re-stocked our food supplies. Some guide books suggest taking a rest day in Courmayeur.
We followed the road out of town, but now one of the steepest climbs on the tour starts, with many zigzags through the forest. The high temperature did not help either. It was a hot steep walk of 800m up through the trees, taking 2.5 hours to reach Refugio Bertone 2000m, named after a famous Italian climber. Once we arrived the views were tremendous up and down the valley-well worth the climb. Laura had gone on ahead, and not for the first time on this trip was wondering where we were, and thought of returning, to see if I needed my bag carried. A very kind offer I always turned down, determined to complete the walk and carry the bag myself.
We had a lovely room for 2, and a shared bathroom. Laura was in a dorm. We ate dinner with 3 very entertaining Germans, who were taking one week each year over 13 years to walk the GR5 from Lake Geneva to Nice. Another interesting idea. Dinner was pasta, beef stew, and dessert and red wine, delicious.
Day Five Saturday 20 Refugio Bertone 2000m to Gite Alpage de La Peula 2100m Switzerland
Distance 15.85 miles (25.5km)
Duration of Walk 9 Hours 20 mins
Average Pace Min/Mile 35
Steps 52116
Elevation Gained 3445 feet (1050m)
Following a breakfast of bread and coffee, we collected the packed lunch we had ordered the night before, leaving at 7.30am. €7 for a lunch of ham sandwich, apple, juice, and biscuits. A bad weather forecast was given, so we had our waterproofs ready. It was actually a mixed day, and not as bad as it could have been. Our only problem was clouds that obscured the view in many places.
We followed the obvious path, contouring along the side of the valley for 2 hours. Then we arrived at Refuge Bonetti 2025m – named after another famous Italian climber, ordering coffee €2 each, and drying out. Make sure you drop in here, and read the detailed poster boards regarding one of the world’s great climbers.
We continued down the steep path, through vegetation, crossing 3 small streams, to the valley. Before passing La Vachey 1642m and crossing a bridge, followed by a steady walk, then climbed up the valley to Refugio Elena 2062m, and ate our lunch. This is a new refuge, the previous one having been swept away by an avalanche. It has a great terrace and with good weather we would have had stupendous views over the glacier, apparently it attracts hordes of visitors in the summer. We bumped into Will again, who had caught the bus part of the way, maybe carrying his tent was not the best plan! Sadly leaving the warmth of the fire, we walked 475m to the col, up endless zigzags. We were wet and tired, I always find the best thing at points like this is just put on head phones, music on, head down and keep going.
Col de Ferret 2537m was definitely worth the 1.5 hour walk though, with immense views back down the massive glaciated valley, where we had come from, with just wispy clouds blowing across. It is marked by a cairn topped with an orientation table. This marks the border between Italy and Switzerland. I found it exciting to cross borders without any passport being shown.
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