First Class on World’s Best Sleeper Train | Twilight Express

First Class on World’s Best Sleeper Train | Twilight Express

Today I’m going first class on the world’s most luxurious sleeper train with tickets so exclusive you have to enter a lottery just to purchase. I’m staying in the best suite on board which takes up an entire rail car with a living room, marble bathroom, and even a private balcony. I’ll give you a never-before-seen insight into what it’s like to live on board. From the Michelin star dining in the restaurant, enchanting entertainment and breathtaking observation cars. With that, let’s pick up our journey in Japan at 9:00 [Music] a.m. Well, hello there and welcome back to the channel where we’re about to get on board another rather epic sleeper train. And right on Q, look who’s joining me for this adventure. Morning. How you doing, Dad? Yeah, good, thank you. It’s at this point we’re notified a representative from the Twilight Express has come to greet us at our hotel and promptly ushers us into a waiting minivan. Whilst the weather might not be on our side at present, it does little to dampen our excitement. Around 10 minutes later, we arrive at Kyoto [Music] Station. Here we’re met by more employees from the train who assist us with our luggage and guide us over to the elevator. [Music] We’re invited to check in at the dedicated Mesakaz lounge. In truth, this is largely a formality and we’re taken straight through to the departure [Music] lounge. Due to the nature of our booking, we’re offered the best seats in the house and presented with a welcome drink menu. We’re served some cookies along with our chosen green [Music] tea. Next, we’re presented with our room key and golden badges, which will act as our boarding [Music] pass. We’re then introduced to the train manager and his team who’ll be looking after us over the coming days. With that, we’re invited to head down to the platform at our [Music] leisure. The anticipation is truly building. This is one of the hardest trains to book onto in the world. Mind you, despite the busy station, signs that our train is departing soon are not exactly subtle. We’re instructed to linger by platform zero, where we must first wait for the Thunderbird Limited Express to pass through. Perhaps it’s just our trains are so dated in the UK, but everything in Japan looks so futuristic to me. With the coast clear, a luxurious new home worth speculated 3 billion yen comes into [Music] view. Due to its rarity, naturally, this causes quite the commotion among commuters. [Music] Welcome on board the Twilight Express, a train consisting of 10 lavishly appointed rail cars with space for just 30 passengers. We’ll be heading firstly to our accommodation in car number seven. Oh, and did I mention the entire carriage is our suite? It’s at this point we abruptly depart Kyoto station amongst a flurry of waving flags and well-wishes. The first leg of our route will take us some 150 miles over to Okiyama. Back in Rail 7, it’s time to explore our new digs. [Music] So, welcome aboard the Twilight Express. Yes. Welcome. This is Well, I think it’s fair to say we’ve both been left pretty speechless so far. Absolutely. Yeah. To put it simply, we’ve got the entire railway carriage to ourselves. Um, this is just our living room. Should we take a proper look around? Yes. The suite is among the very largest accommodation offered on any train in the world. We’ll start off in the living room, complete with comfy sofa, a coffee table filled with information about our trip, a dining table with space for four, along with a welcome bottle of champagne, and of course, a complimentary mini bar. Thoughtfully, there are international adapters and Wi-Fi for our use on board. Let’s move on to the bedroom. You’ll find twin beds adorned in high thread count Egyptian cotton sheets. This frankly feels closer to a hotel room than a rail car. But it gets better through this sliding door in the most beautiful bathroom of any train I’ve ever [Music] seen. The highlight being the stunning claw foot bathtub. Though I’m going to have to pick my time wisely as those windows do not have privacy glass. We’ll continue to see more of our suite in a second, but we’ve been notified by a room attendant. Lunch is being served. Most meals will be served in the elegant dining car with an open kitchen, but as an exception, today’s lunch will be taken in our living [Music] quarters. Drinks wise, I’ve got a ginger beer. I did ask about a Diet Coke, and they said they’re going to pick some up at our next stop. Now that’s service. As you’ll see, our lunch is immaculately presented. But what exactly do we have? Firstly, an appetizer of sea urchin, tiger prawns, and beef. Followed by some boiled conga eel, a rice dish, and some sashimi. Next up, a soup dish with shrimp, shiakei, and bamboo. [Music] For dessert, we’re served green tea ice cream, strawberries, and um red kidney beans. A seemingly odd combination, but I can confirm it does actually work very well. With lunch out of the way, let’s explore the rest of our suite. Back down the marbleclad staircase brings us to the secondary bathroom behind this sliding door featuring another Toto toilet, sink, and luxurious Bulgari amenities. Perhaps the most unique feature is the balcony, which offers a fabulous way to get more immersed in your journey. Right, I think it’s time we take a proper look around the rest of our train. Starting with that incredible observation car. But first, now there is Wi-Fi on board the Twilight Express, but it’s not been needed as I’ve been able to stay connected throughout my trip in Japan thanks to Aerillo, a convenient eim technology provider. Aero makes travel seamless because I no longer have to get a physical SIM when I land in a new country or buy an expensive global plan. Instead, I simply buy one of their affordable eims before my trip. And once I land, I have access to data roaming without having to do anything. keeping my original home number. Aerero is so useful when I travel to multiple countries like this week where I’ve been in Japan, Australia, and Hong Kong because they offer eims in over 200 countries and territories. They have eims which cover entire regions like Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. Stay connected during your next trip cheaper and hassle-free by downloading Heirloom now via the link in my description or by using the QR code right here. Plus, use code Trek Trendy3 for $3 off your first purchase. Aero has made my life so much easier and cheaper, and I can’t wait for you to try it, too. Now, to explore. As with all the rooms on board, these are lockable with your provided key. Worry not, we will investigate the other accommodation in just a moment, but priorities. Cars 1 and 10 are dual purpose, the locomotives as well as observation cars. featuring comfy seating with panoramic views and even an outside viewing platform directly below the driver. Entering car 10, we first pass through the corridor adorned with both local jewelry and literature and make it to a small booth. This is manned intermittently but staff for an iPad tap away. It’s certainly one of the more spectacular spaces of any train I’ve been on board. The other unique feature is that you can look directly into the driver’s cab. And yes, that’s the outside observation deck, which we’ll come back to later. For now, let’s kick back and enjoy the Japanese countryside. Roll on past these huge panoramic [Music] windows. So, we get to stop at a few places along route to get off and have a look at leisure. The train will wait for us and then we’ll continue onwards. So, we should be at Okiyama in the next 15 or 20 minutes. Uh, I will probably need to change to something a little warmer. [Music] It’s heartwarming to see such a cute reception from the local school children, all delighted to welcome us to their city. We have a couple of hours off the train to explore, and we’ll return in due course to get back on board for tonight’s festivities. For the time being, we’re led up and out of the station to the special Twilight Express branded bus. It’s not long before we’re waved off by our welcome committee and on the [Music] road. The drive is brief, but only around 15 minutes over to one of the three great gardens of Japan, Okiyama Corac Garden, and was originally a place of entertainment for the ruling family. Today, it’s open to the public, offering outstanding views out over Okyama Castle and a welcome stretch of the legs for the 30 Twilight Express passengers. Whilst there is already some plum blossom, we’re unfortunately too early in the season to witness us the famed cherry blossom. Next, we’re invited for a very special tour of the Kakumi Khn Hall, built back in the 1800s and not usually open to the public. To finish off, we’re served some local tea by the staff. I think it’s fair to assume I’m going to drink a lot of tea over the next few days. It’s time to head back to our train. Dinner is just around the corner, and there are quite a few surprises in store for us. [Music] We warmly welcome back to the train. And like clockwork, our wonderful room attendant escorts us over to our [Music] suite. The next leg of our journey will take us some 150 mi northwest, arriving bright and early tomorrow morning into Shinji. Well, welcome back to our room. Yeah. Oh god, that’s a bit bumpy. I may have ordered a little surprise for us. And before I fall over again, let’s get changed into something a little [Music] smarter. Of course, what would a track trendy trip be without a drop of Don Perinon? Due to the nature of our suite, everything on the wine list is fully [Music] inclusive. As we peruse the inflight, I mean in rail entertainment, our private twoperson orchestra arrives. I really do have to pinch myself sometimes. [Music] Bravo. That was phenomenal. Now for dinner. Served in the glamorous dining car. Number six. It’s unique given it’s got an open kitchen. Something you never see on board [Music] trains. I can only imagine the challenge cooking on board. So this evening’s menu is created by a local chef who runs a three Michelin style restaurant in Osaka. The focus with tonight’s menu are mountains, rivers, sea, and land. To kick things off, we continue our champagne narrative with some Telmour organic champagne. [Music] After a few sips of our wine, our server announces we’ll be trying fugu next. This, to those not aware, is puffer fish and contains a fatal poison, which requires meticulous preparation by a licensed chef, or well, no more Trek trendy. With trepidation, I approach a dish which perhaps ironically is called life. I mean, it’s delicious and so far I’m okay. As daddy served an Austrian savon blanc, our next course is presented named the sea and consisting of delicate tile fish along with a garnish of seasonal vegetables. Our next course is entitled planet earth to which I’ve been able to interpret as shrimp tortillini. The wine pairing continues with a Japanese sake along with our next piece of edible artwork. [Music] Moving on, a 2019 Pino Noir is paired to perhaps the most incredible piece of Hiroshima Wagyu steak I’ve ever sampled. For dessert, we have All Things Are Not Permanent. Basically, fruits and cream encased in a light pastry shell with a passion fruit sauce drizzled over the top. Certainly a sweet one. [Music] Well, welcome back to our room, Dad. How’s your evening been? Yeah, fabulous. Absolutely fabulous. It’s been really special, hasn’t it? I mean, I can’t quite believe that we had puffer fish. So, should we call that a night? We need to indeed. Let’s head back to that beautiful bathroom and get changed. [Music] Well, with that, it’s good night from me. I can’t wait to explore more of our train in the [Music] morning. I slept really well, actually. But where’s dad? Let’s investigate. [Music] Oh, good morning. Good morning. H, of course, breakfast has been served already in our suite, and it’s quite the feast. From a delicious pork steak to um an egg, a fruit selection, and freshly baked pastries, this will do [Music] nicely. Oh, and not forgetting that much needed caffeine hit. [Music] We’re not that far out of Shinji, but there’s just enough time to give that shower a [Music] try. As we roll into Shinji, it appears again we have quite the welcome committee. What a wholesome start to the day. [Music] And as if by magic, our luxury coach is waiting for us, ready to take us out on excursion. It also provides an opportunity to marvel at our train. Worry not, we’ll be back on board in a few [Music] hours. [Music] Our first trip this morning will take us into the mountains specifically to learn about ancient Japanese iron manufacturer. So this village Sani is home to the last remaining traditional iron making furnace in Japan. We’re talked through the whole process from smelting iron sand into a clay [Music] furnace to production of Japanese knives and swords. In contrast, we emerged to a snowy world outside. Let’s get back on the bus and head to our next stop. Around 40 minutes later, we arrive at Shuk No Morei for an organic home-cooked meal in a traditional Japanese thatched roof [Music] restaurant. Basically, everything we’re eating here has been farmed or fished in the local [Music] area. From simmered vegetables, tempora, and grilled mackerel, it’s quite the feast. We absolutely cannot conclude this meal without a tea [Music] flight. As we depart, the previous snow has unfortunately turned to rain. But not to worry, our final activity is also inside. Another 40-minute drive takes us to Kaguru no yado for a kagura performance. This translates roughly to sacred music and dancing. [Music] It’s time to reboard our wonderful train at Matsui Station. Despite only being on board 24 hours, thanks to the incredible hospitality, it already feels like coming [Music] home. Oh, and as promised, an ice cold DC is awaiting both of us on return to our suite. Well, Dad, it’s about that time of the day where we need to start thinking about dinner and also Champagne [Music] O’. So, where are we heading next? Well, overnight we’ll journey over the coastal tracks over to Higashahama, arriving tomorrow morning for breakfast. Appropriately changed for dinner, let’s walk under our suite and over to observation car 10. Worry not, we’ll check out the other observation car which is quite different along with the outside deck tomorrow. The real convenience of these cars is that one can order room service directly here and in our case champagne [Music] service. As we toast to a continued exceptional journey, I find myself asking, what is the story behind this marvelous train? Well, to understand, we must first wind back the clock all the way to July 1989, where this train’s predecessor was put into service. The original Twilight Express ran the 1,000 mi between Osaka and Saporro as a sleeper train taking 23 hours. Though, thanks to the extension and efficiency of the Shinkansen lines throughout the country, overnight journeys can now be made in a matter of hours. This leaves all but one public sleeper train still in active service. However, for nostalgic and tourism reasons, three cruise trains were created by Japanese railways. The Seven Stars, which I took last year, the Shikushima, which I’m booked on to later this year, and the Twilight Express, introduced back in 2017. Though, as you know, to book on any of these, you need to enter a lottery due to their immense popularity. Anyway, we’ve just been called for dinner. Shall [Music] we? As much fun as it was playing detective on yesterday’s dinner menu, it’s nice to be able to read what we have to expect this evening. We’ll kick things off with another glass of Krug. And it’s not all too long before our appetizer is ready. Certainly quite the eclectic mix, but most tasty. Now, there is one champagne on the sweet list which we’ve not sampled and given how the bottle is decorated in Japanese white flowers, I think most appropriate. This accompanies our next course well being a sashimi selection, including squid, tuna, scolops, and octopus. Something I didn’t realize is that our table is hiding an induction stove top. And that’s because we’re about to enjoy the world’s only hot pot experience on board a moving train. As it’s heating up, I’m served some Wagyu beef and dad some butterfish on a bed of potato puree. Now for the main event, we’re presented with Japanese spiny lobster, seabbream, and a selection of freshly prepared vegetables. All of which goes in the hot pot to simmer away beautifully. Resulting in a most dectable fusion of flavor. Our dinner concludes with strawberries and milk ice cream. Perhaps the most pedestrian element of our culinary adventure this evening. Post dinner, we’re encouraged to proceed for drinks and live music in the atmospheric bar and lounge car, doubling as a tea room by day, of which we’ll be sampling tomorrow. Tonight’s festivities are in full swing. We’re invited to take a seat by the bar and peruse the menu. There’s a lot to choose from, but given we’ve just had dinner, I think a whiskey would be most appropriate to share with dad. Introducing Habiki’s 100th anniversary blend, a bottle of which would set you back a cool [Music] $35,000. See you later. [Music] We have a short excursion this morning for breakfast with a choice of either taking the coach or walking. We’ve chosen the latter mainly because we’re able to get outstanding views of our train departing. Worry not, we’ll be back on board shortly. [Music] Breakfast is served in a beachside Italian restaurant offering spectacular views of the [Music] shoreline. Next, we’ll head over to our table in pride of place by the window. [Music] After a warm welcome from the owner, we’re presented with warm sheer bread and a [Music] coffee. I enjoy the dry curled ham with mozzarella along with a locally caught fresh toutorii fish culminating with a freshlymade lychi panakotta and a performance by local residents. [Music] With that, we’re invited to head to the lobby to collect our sand boots and get on board the Twilight Express coach. The use for said sand boots will become evident [Music] shortly. Welcome to the cold but beautiful Toutorii sandjunes. They represent Japan’s largest sandjune formation and exist as a result of thousands of years of sand from the nearby river washed out to sea and redeposited by the ocean’s currents. The dunes are a constantly changing landscape shaped by the ferocious coastal winds of which we’re experiencing [Music] now. Now to link back to our train currently stabled at the Tori station in our [Music] absence. Back on the move again, it’s time to take a look around the other accommodation offered on board. As mentioned, our suite is the only one of its kind, so all other passengers will stay in the Royal Twin Rooms. There are three of these in each rail car and still offer a most comfortable way to travel through Japan. There’s a small open closet space and on suite bathroom complete with shower. By night, the armchairs convert to comfy twin beds. We still have a carriage we yet to explore, the second observation car. While similar in layout, the design is quite different and I think I prefer this color scheme. Oh, and we’re still yet to go outside on the observation deck. Let’s change that. [Music] Following on from this excitement, we still need to experience what it’s like to take a bath on a moving train. Certainly a rarity, but what a place to try [Music] it. It’s a very cool experience, but you really have to pick your bath time correctly and not when you’re gliding through a busy commuter station. Feeling most refreshed, we’ve been invited to a special tea ceremony over in the lounge car. In contrast to last night’s Habiki drinking orchestral extravaganza, the space has been reserved privately for [Music] us. Let’s take a seat as our matchy is prepared. [Music] Whilst preparation commences, we’re served with gashi, which are traditional Japanese sweets specially made to pair with our [Music] tea. I think it’s time we talk cost. Given that this trip ordinarily is only possible after successfully winning a lottery, how did I do it? As a one-off, the Twilight Express ran an English and French-speaking departure, and by chance, I managed to secure a booking on this trip with no application process needed. Do note though, this is for the Royal Twin. Then, after inquiring about booking the suite, to my surprise, it was still available, but at quite the price hike. This brings the total cost to a mind-blowing $43,200. To my knowledge, booking this way is the only option in order to guarantee a trip, or else you’ll have to enter the lottery for a ticket. Welcome to Kyoto. Welcome. We have had the most amazing time on board this incredible train. Thank you so much for watching and we’ll catch you all again next time. [Music]

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Today I’m taking the world’s most luxurious sleeper train over the next 72 hours. What’s more I’m in the best room, or should I say I have the entire carriage as my suite! This is by far the most incredible sleeper train experience of my life, the Twilight Express Mizukaze. Though this is a trip you can’t just book, and have to enter a lottery to reserve a ticket onboard.

I’ll be documenting every minute of my journey from what the dining is like in the restaurant car curated by a 3 Michelin star chef, the observation lounges (there are two!) and finding out what my private balcony is like in my suite. This also happens to be up there as my most expensive individual travel experience too… at over $40,000! As usual I’ve broken down the cost and how I booked this in the video.

0:00 – Intro
04:18 – The Suite
08:25 – Observation Car
13:01 – Dining Car
23:22 – Lounge Car
26:46 – Royal Twin
29:03 – Cost