This was a backup choice as another restaurant was unable to open that day due to reasons. I wanted [more] French-ish with a focus on vegetables and options were limited this close in. I actually discovered this place on Tokyo Gourmet and the idea of vegetables and a lot of wine vibed with me, particularly as I had plenty of meat at Yoroniku the next day. I was tossing up vegetarian or standard course but the standard ended up being satisfactorily vegetable dominated.
It's a small 7ish seat place with an open kitchen to the side and somm working the counter.
They present the vegetables for the evening in a way that reminds me of L'Effervescence and begin with somen noodles, spinach oil and a little bit of crab. When I say a little, I really mean a little. The seasoning is on the low side but I think I'm getting their intent on tasting the ingredients. Paired with 2013 Follet Ramillon. Lots of fun.
Next is a turnip with mikan. I cannot resist judging this and I enjoy how it's cooked until almost potato-like consistency inside and seasoned sufficiently. Paired to 2024 Kusuda riesling.
Ebi-imo is cooked 4 times – steamed, stewed in a dash, fried and grilled. Pure potato deliciousness and served with bottarga and a fresh yuzu kosho. Paired with a nice sparkling sake from Oita.
The first meat dish is deer heart, very briefly grilled and served with salt and olive oil. I generally don't do offal but this had a nice steak-like feel and taste. Paired with Felettig En Vallerot chardonnay. The choice of a white wine with deer heart was very interesting but surprisingly it didn't clash.
Squid and cauliflower is delicious, and the burgundy above continued, this time more expectedly. Bread is offered from here to help with the liquids.
Intermission of kumquat or something.
Maitake and a chestnutty puree. The red wine begins with 2022 Thibault Liger Belair pinot noir. Ok this goes too.
The other meat dish is textbook duck breast with chrysanthemum leaves and a vinegar reduction, paired to 2023 Savage Grenache from South Africa, though the leftover pinot is great too.
The wine pouring ends there but the food continues with a risotto and lily bulbs. Very comforting dish and they also serve a non alcohol amazake-like drink(?). I'm not drunk I promise, but I'm not sure whether or not these post-wine drinks were part of the meal or pairing.
And finally, mushroom noodles. Absolute umami bomb to round out the meal with some tea.
Dessert is a single quenelle of kuromoji ice cream with olive oil. It opens sweet and then the spice hits. But after this I do want more dessert.
For 16.5k + service, the dinner is fine. The pairing costs as much as the food but it was a lot of fun and the somm made for good conversation in both English and Japanese with all the diners and it was interesting that they chef and somm were also foodies. Some of the dishes did feel more like snacks to the wine taking centre stage, especially in portion size but I'm happy coming here as the produce was respected and there was sufficient wine.
You may notice I added pictures of a dark corridor. They sent written instructions on how to find the restaurant in an email as it involves going through a scary building in Roppongi. Rest assured, your organs probably won't be harvested (unless you're a deer).
by dentetsuryu