Two Days Across Sweden and Denmark (The Arctic Circle Road Trip- Part 9)

    a very sunny Stockholm. This is the first day in 12 days being in the Nordics where I’ve woken up in the morning and it feels like summer. The first day in 12 days is so nice. I think the forecast is going back to being bad tomorrow, but that doesn’t matter. I’ll enjoy today. My plan, 5 days to get home, about 1,300 1,400 miles. Now I have to go southwest over to Denmark. All the way across Denmark, over through that island in Denmark, across the bridges, down through Germany, Belgium, France, and then the ferry back home. But this is the difference here. The way up I took the ferry from Germany to Norway and that was £440. So to be fair, it’s not cheap, but that’s about the going rate for all fairies of about that distance. It’s not that expensive. It’s normal. But on the way back, the ferry quote that I was getting was about £500. And that meant that the fairies combined would have been there and back, Nord Cape or North Cape and back would have been over £1,000. So instead of taking that big ferry back, I’ve decided to ride the entire way back, apart from that one ferry from Calala to do, of course, France to England, because I want to see what the difference is. That’s a huge potential saving. What’s it like going over the bridges of Denmark? How much longer does it take? How much does it cost? So, let’s pack up fully recharged after this city break. And honestly, I feel like I could go for another North Cape level of adventure. I’m that re-energized. [Music] Yeah. [Music] [Music] On the way down through Sweden, I discovered a brilliant little restaurant chain that’s often on the side of motorways. It’s called Raster. Nothing Jamaican related at all. It’s it’s Swedish food. Good, simple, hearty food. Very similar to the aka service in the restaurants whereby pick up your tray, go and choose what you want. It’s a simple selection, but it’s just nice hearty food that makes you really full. And if you think about it, like a quality food, but just 50% better. I I love this place. I highly recommend it. If you’re road tripping through Sweden, take a look for Rasta. There is one other thing that I think this is true. I think in Sweden, you’re not allowed to lane filter, lane split, which I always think is absolutely ridiculous. There are some countries or some states in the US where you can’t do it as well. So I was going along this motorway here and there was chronic chronic traffic. Really awful. Completely at a standstill. So I spent the first 5 minutes just sitting in traffic and I thought this is ridiculous. So I I just filtered straight the way through all the way to the front. But there were a few Finnish riders that I passed on the way and they were just waiting in traffic. And I’m so curious, Swedish riders, it may be illegal technically to filter through traffic, to split through traffic, but do you actually follow the rule of the road and stick to that? Because it just seems almost impossible to me to consider waiting behind a car for hour after hour on a motorway. You can when you can just get to the front of the queue. Please let me know what the reality is. [Music] [Music] I see why Rasta in both of the ones I’ve been to has always had a gigantic queue. £10, what was it? No, £1150 for all of that. That works out at about £250 more expensive than that dehydrated meal that I’ve stopped physically being able to eat. The motorway sides food in in Sweden is is excellent. And this this beautiful coffee shop, this is at a motorway services. It’s lovely. I need to make sure I don’t spend a ridiculous amount of time here. And I do actually hit the road properly because I’ve only covered 65 miles since I actually headed off. And I really need to do I’ve got to do something like 320. I think I need to be pretty close to Malmo, which is the last town before getting to Denmark. I think by the end of the day, that would mean I’m pretty much on track. Also, I look at gorging pastries very differently now. Everyone here to a person, I’m serious, everyone is having massive pastries with their coffees because they’re all having their fica moments. This isn’t being greedy. This isn’t overeating. This is having your moment to to catch up and gather yourself. It’s very, very important here. And I I have to make sure I take that little piece of Sweden with me. The importance of fica, of coffee, of cakes, of unwinding. [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] There’s a sight. Old SA convertible on these lovely, stunning Swedish country roads. I feel I feel so lucky to have seen that. I finally managed to find it after seriously almost three and a half thousand miles traveled through Norway and Sweden. I couldn’t find chain spray anywhere anywhere at all until, don’t ask me why I did this. I decided just now to check you think I’m joking the fridge section of the service station. And there it was. chain lube in the fridge section. I think I’m going to do more than spray just the chain though because this whole bike now is just covered in the salt and the grit from 2 and a half thousand miles all the way through freezing temperatures and stuff in Norway. So, it’s caked in dreadful stuff basically. So, I don’t think the chain would have lasted much longer. Give that a quick spray and I’m good to go. I’m so glad I finally managed to find this. [Music] for you. [Music] So nice. The gentleman came back for a chat because he could see I was admiring his cars. Both that convertible sub and the Mercedes are his. That Mercedes is a 1970. And he’s got a son, coincidentally, who lives in London and has a Triumph Scrambler. Just to see those two bikes here with this or those two cars here with this backdrop, this setting was perfect. Okay, time finally to get back on the road. [Music] [Music] I need to leave Sweden. This is getting ridiculous. Cannot keep eating this many cinnamon buns. So, I’ll be delighted when I finally leave because I clearly can’t control myself. So, so good. It’s arrived. Bit earlier than I thought. The bad weather. It’s 8:00 p.m. now and I thought it was going to start tomorrow, but the rain started. The cold’s back. So, thermal leggings on. I’m going to have to put an extra top on as well. Winter gloves back on. Yeah. Yeah. I’m back on all the water boots and I can just feel it getting heavier with every second that goes by. But luckily, I’m now used to being soaking all the time. So, this is quite normal for me. [Music] Can you keep it a secret? [Music] When tomorrow comes and leave this lonelyness behind. Some days go so fast. Some days just hold on to your mind. Sleep at the wheel. [Music] Cruising slow motion through a chemical cloud [Music] on the floor of the ocean and I’m soaking wet again. I’ve got Norway flashbacks now. Everything is just so saturated. My boots, my socks, everything. That was torrential rain for the last two hours. But I was I was so wide awake that there was no point me stopping. So I ended up riding till about 10:00. But uh the video quality is is so bad now. I will see you all in the morning and show you where I picked for my camping spot and exactly where I am. So have a good night. See you in the morning. Morning. I forgot the last night I camped. I camped in pouring rain and my tent my tent got wet. So the inside of the tent I think is soaking wet because when I was packing it up it got torrential. So that was pretty cold wet night sleep. But even though I didn’t sleep non-stop, went to bed at 11:30, it’s 8:00 in the morning. Now I’m in You kind of figure out your favorite kind of places for wild camping. I say this wild camping because I like camping near service stations and truckers areas. That’s what I look for. I just gravitate to it. So, I’m going to pack up, grab a coffee in this Circle K petrol station, and then I’m doing something very special. I’m doing a slight detour. I’m actually going back 25 minutes in the opposite direction quickly because there’s a photo again from the Lost Biker stories that we made. One of the very first photos, one of the photos that photos that made made me made us create the book is a photo of my grand great-grandparents in a little town not far from here, 1922, 103 years ago, sitting on the Harley-Davidson. I’ve got that exact location with Google latitude and longitude. So, I’m going to go there now, see if I can find the exact spot, get a photo of me in the Bonavville in the exact spot where my great-randparents were. So, I’ll do that first. But location update. Good day yesterday. I think I must have covered 370 mi. I’m just 10 minutes from Malmo now. Malmo is the last town before getting to Denmark. So that’s it. I mean, I’m 10 minutes from Malmo. I’m probably just half an hour from Denmark now. But I’m going to do this quick detour, grab a coffee, and we’ll hit the road. [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] I’ve just seen the most incredible thing. I’ve been having uh another cinnamon bun and a coffee and there’s a BMW 1250 GS. The gentleman stopped for a cigar and I had a quick chat with him. He’s come from China. Can I just ask where So, you’ve come from China. What’s your plan for the route? What’s your plans? I don’t know. Where are you going? Just Germany. Germany. Uh, Espania, uh, Italia, France. And how many days are you traveling for? I plan, uh, three or four months. So all the way from China, Europe, China, Europe, and all the way back to China again. Yes. All the way by by motor. That’s fantastic. Are you enjoying it? Yes. Very enjoying. Have have an amazing trip. This is the best journey I have ever heard of. Look at that. That That is a Chinese number plate BMW GS going all the way through Europe. I’ve never seen anything like that. It’s fantastic. And just to show the 1250 BMW GS. I mean, this this has to be fully loaded for the most colossus of a trip. Sometimes he camps, sometimes gets a hotel if they’re decent. But two massive paniers, huge top box, dry bags on the back with a tank pouch. I mean, this has got so much luggage. Even the luggage on the front from Lobo and the crash bars. What a gentleman. That’s that’s absolutely fantastic. To see Chinese plates over in Europe is such a rarity. What an incredibly nice man. That trip he’s going to be doing, it’s gigantic. There are a lot of people that see that BMW 1250GS as the finest adventure bike that’s ever been made. In fact, there are a lot of people that see that 1250 GS as the finest adventure bike that will ever be made. The sweet spot before too many regulations came in that you had to adhere to. and seeing that gentleman all the way from China and his bike of choice is that GS knowing he has to trust it for I don’t know that’s got to be it’s got to be minimum 15 to 20,000 mile trip completely out of your your comfort zone in another continent you know to to pick the 1250 GS that’s just about the biggest compliment you can possibly get for a bike there’s an advert for the BMW GS. Okay, I’ll stop. I spent half my time loitering around service stations. I’m actually going to now finally hit the road because I haven’t moved. I camped 20 m over there. Let’s go. I’m going to see if I can find this house from my great grandparents. [Music] Heat. Heat. [Music] [Music] I found it. Incredible to think this yellow house here, this was the family house built by my I think four times greatgrandfather and exactly where I am now of the Bonavville. This is where the photo was taken in 1922 of my greatgrandparents sitting proudly on their Harley-Davidson that they bought in 1917 and then I think about 15 years later donated to a political party. But it was right on this spot in the summer of 1922, 103 years, separating me right now and them all the way back then. I think my four times great-grandfather ended up building quite a few of the houses on this street and in this town as well. [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] It was a very kind gentleman called Theo who found all of the information out about that Harley-Davidson because we were all in our family trying to figure out what is that Harley there. What’s the story behind it? So, Theo, Swedish gentleman, went through the Swedish archives and he managed to dig out all of the information which is incredible. So, Theo, if you’re watching this, thank you so much. All of that information is thanks to you. [Music] I love it when Google Maps takes you on on roads you think there is absolutely no way I should be traveling on this road to get to Denmark. There is zero chance this is the road to Denmark, this dirt track. I refuse to believe it, but it’s it’s so nice and I would never ever find this road without Google Maps that I’m just going with it. Update as well. So, I’m an hour from from Denmark. I’ve put in to go over the southerntherlymost bridge from Sweden to Denmark. Of course, I want to take no fairies back apart from the Calala to do one. So, I’m making sure I specifically pick a route with a bridge and not a ferry crossing. You have to be really specific with this because a lot of the time Google Maps, it wants to take you on ferry crossings, but I want to see what the cost is by using the bridges. We Libertatia, the brand we set up, god probably about a year and a half ago, we supplied everyone on this trip with one of our Libertacia tool rolls, which are these. You’ll always see it on the front of my Bonavville. So, everyone had one of these made from British oil skin fabric and handmade from the very start to the very finish in Ipsswitch, England. So, we manufactured it and designed it so that you can put it in a load of locations. Either put it in your panas, strap it to loads of different areas on your bike. And my favorite spot for the Baronavville is right here under the headlamp. So to take it off with this army surplus strap, just one click and it comes off. As easy as that. Undo the the little strapping there. And this has probably seen it’s got to be 10,000 miles, this specific tool roll. This is the Kale LMA one. So the strap comes out like that. And you can see it needs a very good clean. But with these kind of fabrics, the wax cut and the oil skins, they just get better with age with all the patina. So they’re all the tools that I take for the trip. Little Union Jack flag there and antique brass zips on the bottom where I keep all of the little socket attachments. [Music] I know you’re out there passing the light, shining over everything all through the darkest night. Confused and lonely. I look up above and contemplate all of the wonders of your love. Oh, I must get crazy, my sweet angel. Can’t you tell some love just to get me back would be fine. [Music] Heat You speak in silence. You wave your head. You walk me out to see, but leave no footprints in the sand. You talk so quiet. I try to hear, but the voices singing hallelujah always disappear. Oh, I must be crazy. [Music] My sweet angel. Can’t you tell? It takes a toll on my restless soul. [Music] There’s no control. Hello. Welcome to Copenhagen. Freddy, he just found me here in the gas station. This is my cava 85. Been in service from 85 to 95 in California. the former police officer who had it actually got access to Fort Lewis regarding the stickers up here. So, um I found a guy, but he’s this is the sticker for n the ninth month in 95. Just went to Fort Lewis and I’ve been riding it for 9 years now. I love it. It’s a cool bike. I love the highways. Uh I just love cruising and uh I haven’t done anything ex like extraordinary for this one. I just um maintained it. So, it’s pretty original as it is. Where are you going? We are going to a party tonight. Hey, you invited if you want. And so, we’re going to be like 50 60 guys from all over the country and meeting up in Jland in uh in kind of a it’s today is kind of Mexican cowboy theme. Tomorrow it’s going to be 80s Dallas. Exactly. That is brilliant. So, they’re going to be a whole load like 50 60 off to a party all on these kind of bikes. Yeah, I got my my suit also like 80s suit and uh I got my 80s uh yeah, boots also, ties, everything like that. And uh yeah, so that’s going to be for the weekend. Ridiculously cool guy, Andreas. I mean, the bike itself and then his look as well, he looks like a a very tall Colombian drug lord, like a Pablo Escobar, but about 6’4 tall or something like that. Then when he opened up the pa and he had a whole load of US dollars and other stuff just packed up in there ready for the party. He was showing me some other some clips from last year’s party that they had. They do it once a year this thing. They all ride off on on these old classic bikes and his bike is the newest out of everyone’s. And judging by the videos from last year, this is going to be a ridiculously wild party. He very kindly did did invite me, but I thought now I have to I have to keep hitting the road. But I was quite tempted because that is a a crazy looking place they’re going to be heading to. So Andreas, if you’re watching, I hope you had hope you had an amazing time. I’ll put the Instagram account here as well, so you can go and check them out, the stuff they get up to, cuz they got a proper proper biking group. So, I checked I checked the price of the ferry that I’ve just taken. Ferry built in the year 2000, 8 km long. The cost is £30, but that’s £30 for a motorbike. If you’re going by car, I think it could be double the price. So, it could be £55 to 60 for a car, and that really is pushing it price-wise. But this is still for road tripping the most cost effective and the most timeeffective way to cover ground. So there are no better options at all. And it is a lovely bridge. You go really high up over between the two countries, Sweden and Denmark. And you’re so high you’re basically riding along level with the seagulls flying. So that’s quite cool as well. Sorry, I just realized I was referring to the bridge as as the ferry for some reason. I must be tired from all of the riding and delusional. When I said ferry just now, I was referring to the bridge. The bridge built in the year 2000. Just to clarify in case you think I’m going crazy. [Music] [Music] I completely forgot to wrap up the video, but this is me riding through a little village on a lastm minute hunt for a bit of fuel before my final stretch of the evening. So, I’ll catch up with you all in the next video. Thank you so much everyone for watching and thank you to Saley for sponsoring the video. You can go and check them out if you’re interested on your next travel. [Music]

    Get an exclusive 15% discount on Saily data plans! Use code FREDDIE at checkout. Download Saily app or go to https://saily.com/freddie

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    After a three day break, I leave Stockholm and travel west to Denmark.

    The 5,000 mile Arctic circle road trip, from England to the northerly most road in mainland Europe, the Nordkapp (North Cape) in Norway.

    Seven motorcycles, ranging from custom Harley Davidson’s, a 1981 Shovelhead, Triumph Bonneville and Triumph Speedmaster. Wild camping, rain, freezing temperatures and the wilderness awaits.

    __________________

    Locations:

    Stockholm, Sweden
    Loberod, Sweden
    Copenhagen, Denmark

    __________________

    You can shop our The Lost Biker Stories book and tool rolls here: www.thelibertatia.com

    __________________

    My gear today:

    John Doe One Helmet
    Belstaff Brooklands Jacket (Sand)
    Goldtop England Submariner jumper and base layers
    Hood Jeans K7
    Styl Martin Yu’Rok Boots
    Throttlesnake gloves
    Age of Glory Neck Tube
    __________________

    Other channels:

    You can also find me on the @tuesdayatdobbs channel for weekly motorcycle chat.

    __________________

    Partners and Gear:

    LIBERTATIA:
    www.thelibertatia.com
    Our The Lost Biker Stories book, British made tool rolls and stickers are available.

    LANOGUARD:
    Underseal Range for Vehicle Rust & Corrosion Protection
    My rust proofing product of choice. You’ll get £5 off by clicking the above link (affiliate link).

    QUAD LOCK:
    https://bit.ly/3XaNilk
    My Usual Bonneville Quad Lock setup: Quad Lock Mount with Black Lever, Vibration Dampener, Handlebar Mount Pro, iPhone Mag Case, USB Charger, USB to Lightening Cable

    HOOD JEANS

    2025 Hood Home


    Jeans that significantly exceeds the highest level; Class AAA of EN 17092-2:2020 standard

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    My personal motorcycle: 2010 Triumph Bonneville 865cc (the base version)

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    Purely watching the videos is a gigantic support, but you can also support the channel here:

    buymeacoffee.com/fdobbs
    paypal.me/freddiedobbs

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    Video editing: @monikameraki (Instagram)

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    35 Comments

    1. That was just superb viewing Freddie, I remeber that Bridge at Malmo after watching the series. The guy on the GS from China was just an amazing sight to see as was the guy on the American Police bike! I bet that party would have been great and a fantastic opportunity to see a variaty of classic cruisers. So cool and as always, looking foward to the next one. 😎👍

    2. It's legal to lane filter for sure, as long as you don't cross the solid lines. Car drivers are just a little less used to it and the roads aren't as accommodating for it compared to Asia etc, where lane filtering is much more commonplace. Also a lot of Scandinavian motorcycle riders are just not used to filtering and prefer not to do it.

    3. Every time I’ve watched your brilliant return home vlogs, thank you again, all I want to do, and this isn’t a euphemism, is wipe your headlight clean & fix your slightly wonky, left hand indicator stem 😂😂. That probably says more about me than anything! 😮😊

    4. Lane splitting is not allowed! If you do it when traffic is at a standstill, not so bad. In moving traffic, its a no go. Im sure the police could have issues with it.

    5. Great vid Freddie, Sweden is on my bucket list, .. that Bonnie is a total workhorse, you should never sell it, once it gives up, you should keep it as a piece of art. 👊

    6. Nooo, you cheated yourself out of both lovely Copenhagen AND the party! I could understand you turned down the party if you were going to stay a while in Copenhagen but you actually were traveling on, in same direction as the party. You missed two great opportunities for adventure.

    7. Thanks for the Rasta tip , I nearly transited through the whole of Sweden North to South without stopping here. Im here now , fuelling me and the bike!

    8. I find your two-wheel travel videos so therapeutic. Too much luggage on the Chinese lad's bike. It must weigh a ton. I wonder if he uses it all. Great trip for him, though. I used to love my R1100GS. But you do get problems with GSs. Great to see the old Triumph running so well. Dig the handlebars.

    9. That camera decided to lie down on the hay field and sky gaze. Which considering the enviroment sounds like a lovely idea… 👌

    10. Hey Freddie! Have you ever ridden a Honda X-ADV? If not, would you consider doing so? I would love to hear your honest opinion as I am really fascinated by this concept of motorcycle….
      Cheers from Switzerland 🙂

    11. Thanks for a nice video Freddie! I have just started my journey to my driver's license here in Sweden, and by a happy coincidence I stumbled upon your channel just when you are traveling in the Nordics. Impressive that you managed to stay positive despite all the rain. The weeks after you left we've had a heat wave… Looking forward to more of your videos. // Btw, "Rasta" means "rest" or "take a break", had never thought of it being the same word as Jamaican Rasta haha. Had a Spanish friend who similarly made me realize that the Swedish word for "nose" is pronounced just like NASA.

    12. Nice trip. I had a women from Löberöd a couple of years ago😅😅 Do you go by Klippan, I live there. Skåne have some nice roads. I think I have cruise every road there on my Suzuki intruder 1400.

    13. Freddie, great video & content, really enjoyable. Well done. I'm taking another one of my own adventures in 4 days time, off to ride the Himalayan mountains 🤔

    14. Hi Freddie, for years I’ve watched your videos religiously… I watched a bit of the first Nordkapp video and stopped… it didn’t grab me and I left it… this weekend in the rain I thought I’d give it another go.. so glad I did … the journey home is brilliant… now I think I might try it…. Thanks Freddie.

    15. the cost of ferries! I constantly debate it. On my two week trip to Sardinia in April, the ferry crossings to and from Spain that book ended the tour amounted to nearly 50% of the total cost … that's fuel, accommodation, subsistence … the lot! and they were only 2 nights of a 14 night trip away. Obviously there were also 2 crossings in the Med to and from Porto Torres, also overnighters, but both were very reasonably priced. Also reasonable were the ferries from Hirtshals to Kristiansand and back on my recent three week trip to Norway, far less than you paid from Germany. My takeaway is that Brittany Ferries in particular are ripping off bikers big time, no way should we be charged one third of the price of a car when we're just filler on the decks. These costly elements of a tour need to be carefully considered, especially if you're consciously scrimping on other parts of your journey. Having done my full financial analysis of actual costs, we also need to kill the idea that Norway is hideously expensive – it isn't or rather it needn't be. All in, my daily costs around Norway were less than off season Sardinia!

    16. Hello Freddie, I have watched a lot of videos on this channel and may be all of them for the past year. This is the first time commenting as this is the best ever episode for me so I wanted you to know. May be the link to the past or the small surprises along the way… this was a wholesome episode and editing, music were precise.

    17. As a Swede: Filtering isn't illegal and not legal. It's one of those insane things that is up to every policeman to decide which is a result of lazy politicians and unclear legislation.

    18. In Germany, you can get into real trouble when filtering on the motorway, especially if an emergency lane has been formed and you use it. Unauthorised use of the emergency lane is punishable by a fine of at least 240 euros, two points in Flensburg and a one-month driving ban. In addition, you would also be overtaking on the right, which is prohibited in Germany. Cost: 100 euros and another point in Flensburg (which is a German system for recording driving offences, if you have collected too many points, you may be banned from driving).

    19. Sorry …and…he did it again. Nice video, nice trip…but he's wrecking his motorcycle again! He doesn't appreciate Wurks' work. …because he's spraying some kind of lubricant all over his motorcycle again. Why? Each component needs its own lubricant or care product. I love his enthusiasm and sense of adventure. But I think it's better to leave maintenance to the professionals. OK. The chain can be lubricated with chain spray, but only this one please!. Keep riding man, but leave your hands of the Bike, please!

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