Один из трёх первых (столица Альгоя Кемптен). One of the first three ( Kempten).

Один из трёх первых (столица Альгоя Кемптен). One of the first three ( Kempten).

You are on the channel Notes of Life and I am Igor Deikun, hello. In several of my stories I have talked about Bavaria, its cities, the capital of Swabia, the city of Augsburg. But this story would not be complete if I did not tell about the city from which everything began in this region of Germany and in Bavaria, in particular. And although at the moment it is small and does not play a noticeable economic role now, nevertheless it has a glorious and in some ways unique history, the unofficial capital of the Allgäu Kempten region. The top three contenders for the title of the oldest German cities include Trier, once the largest among them, called the “northern Rome”, in which up to 70,000 people lived in the Roman era. Worms also claims this title. It is he who, by decision of the Federal Government, represents Germany in the working group of the oldest cities in Europe, as well as the Bavarian Kempten, in the Roman era called Cambodunum, which occupies a special place, since it was the first of them to be mentioned in the annals. The entry is dated to the eighteenth year of our era, it is first mentioned in the fourth book of “Geography” by the Greek geographer Strobon as the settlement of Cambodunon. Although the city itself was founded around the eighteenth or fifteenth year BC, possibly on the site of a pre-Roman settlement, the capital of the Celtic tribe of Aestines. The heyday of the city came in the first and second centuries. And until the end of the 2nd century AD, Cambodunum was the first capital of the Roman province of Rhaetia, then it was moved to Augsburg. The name of the modern city of Kempten comes directly from the Latin name Cambodunum, which can be translated as “fortress in the bend of the river.” The city has an Archaeological Park. Its creation was preceded by archaeological excavations, which have been carried out purposefully since 1885. The park is located in the district of Lindenberg, on the right bank of the Iller, on the site of the capital of the province of Raetia. The park presents the Gallo-Roman temple complex of Hercules, with five reconstructed buildings and a double hall surrounding the temple complex on three sides, the “Small Baths”, adjacent to the praetorium, the residence of the governor of the Roman province. Initially, access to the baths was possible only through the praetorium, which suggests that they belonged to the residence of the governor. The “Small Baths” are considered the earliest stone building in Kempten. Today, the baths are covered by a protective structure, which also houses a museum. To the north of the “Small Baths” were the “Great Baths”, built at the end of the 1st century. The area of these baths was 4,200 m², which makes them one of the largest thermal complexes north of the Alps. And the memory of them has been preserved in Kampten to this day in the name of the street Theremmenstrasse, on which they are located. Next to the praetorium, the Forum complex with a basilica, barracks for troops and outbuildings. To the southeast, the “Sacred Precinct” adjoined it. It was surrounded by a wall covering an area of about 180 x 240 m. In its center, an altar measuring 8.4 x 12 m was discovered during excavations in the 19th century. The complex is the largest surviving archaeological monument of the Roman period in Germany, but, unfortunately, has not been completely excavated due to the dense modern development around it. For example, a large part of the sacred precinct, with the altar area, has been under modern streets since the 19th century. After the destruction of Comppodunum by Germanic tribes at the end of the 3rd century, the city was moved to the Burhalde hill, rising about 25 m on the left bank of the Iller and then located on an island. The settlement, which had shrunk considerably, was now better protected on the river terrace. A detachment of the “Third Italian Legion” was permanently stationed there. In addition, a wall about 1.8 m wide was built around the city, which has been preserved on the western slope of the hill. Here you can see its remains, built into the medieval fortifications. The city was then called Cambidanum, and from this place modern Kempten began. In 752, on the left bank of the Iller River, opposite the northern end of Kempten, which was then inhabited mainly by Alemanni, the monk Audagar founded a Benedictine monastery and became its first abbot, building a monastery church dedicated to St. Mary. In the 8th century, the monastery made a lot of efforts to gain a higher status, as a Carolingian monastery of that time. This was facilitated by the favorable the attitude of Hildegard, Charlemagne’s third wife, who was of Alemannic nobility on her mother’s side, and of the king himself. In 773, Hildegard and Charlemagne officially refounded the monastery. Having married at a very young age, she was either 12 or 14 years old, Hildegard bore Charlemagne a total of nine children: four boys and five girls, all of whom were heirs to the throne. Her son and Charlemagne’s heir, Louis the Pious, continued to provide constant support to the monastery. In 853, the “Campidonian March” was established as a land holding of the abbots. The territory of the March roughly corresponded to the future County of Kempten. Hildegard is deeply revered in Kempten and in the Allgäu as a saint and was always depicted with a halo. Her image adorned the monastery coat of arms and some of the coins of the princely abbey. And the female name Hildegard is one of the most popular in the Allgäu. Since the 12th century, the abbots of the monastery began to bear the princely title. However, in 1289, King Rudolf I of Germany, in recognition of the services rendered by the citizens of Kempten, granted the city special privileges, making it the Free Imperial City of Kempten. In 1525, the last property rights of the abbot in the imperial city were sold, which marked the beginning of the existence of two independent cities located next to each other and bearing the same name. The conflict escalated in 1527 after the imperial city adopted Protestantism, which became a direct confrontation with the Catholic princely abbey. Until the second half of the 13th century, the monastery and the city were separated by a branch of the Iller River. But shortly before 1300, it was filled in. But the old border line remained until the beginning of the 19th century. During the Thirty Years’ War in the 17th century, both the monastery and the city suffered greatly, as the monastery was part of the “Catholic League” and the city was part of the “Protestant Union”. During the war, the abbey and the abbey churches were burned down. Since the mid-17th century, the residence of the Prince-Abbot was rebuilt as the first monumental monastery complex in Germany in the Baroque style. The residence was decorated with luxurious Rococo furniture. Look at the interior decoration and paintings of the abbey residence. Next to the residence is its own park, the Hofgarten, an area of 3.4 hectares, very beautiful, on several levels and in it is a real relic, a seven-meter white acacia tree, planted back in 1740. Since the abbey did not have enough money for everything, it was decided to restore only the Basilica of St. Lorenz (Lawrence), as a combined function of a parish and monastery church. Although the church building was basically completed by 1670, finishing work and interior remodeling dragged on for almost a century, and the ceremonial consecration took place only in 1748. The towers were not completed until 1900. By that time, the free imperial city and the princely monastic city had already merged into a single Kempten. Built in the Baroque style, the Basilica of St. Lawrence has a correspondingly lush decoration. There are 15 altars in the Basilica, one of which contains the relic of St. Lawrence. The five-span central nave is 16.3 m high and ends with an octagonal choir in front of the main altar, crowned with a dome 42 m high. The main altar, the work of Johann Georg Haggenmiller, is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who is the patroness of the Benedictine order. The altarpiece depicts the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The side naves contain three-section confessionals from the 18th century, decorated with rich carvings. The Basilica of St. Lawrence in Kempten has four permanent organs and one portable organ. The main organ is located in the West Gallery. Above the choir are two choir organs. The northern organ, the organ of St. Mary, can also be used as the main organ to support collective singing in the choir, and the southern organ, the organ of St. Lawrence, created in the high baroque style with a melodic tuning. Both choir organs can be played from the console of the main organ. The fourth organ is located under the choir in the crypt, which is also used for church services and in which the tombstones of the Prince-Abbots are located . Seven bells are installed on two towers, each 65 m high. The two oldest date back to the 17th century. The basilica is connected to the residence of the Prince-Abbots through the large sacristy. Adjacent to them is the Hildegardplatz square. Once upon a time there was a fountain in the square, in a neo-Gothic style, with a statue of Hildegard, but it was dismantled due to its dilapidation. In 2013, after the reconstruction of the square, a fountain designed by Christina Sandler was installed. The round pool, made of shell rock, is decorated with six animals: a salamander, a frog, a grass snake, a trout, a carp and a crab, from which water flows when you press a button. On a separate column, in the center of the fountain, two figures in bathing suits stand with outstretched arms next to an apple tree. Below is a wreath, around the column, on which several small birds are sitting. Water flows in streams from this wreath. The new fountain has caused a mixed reaction among the residents of Kempten, although I personally like it. From spring to autumn, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, a weekly market is held on the square. Between the Catholic Basilica of St. Lorenz and the Protestant Church of St. Mang, in the old town, as if uniting and trying on them, on the Ratushplatz square, is the Kempten Town Hall. The Town Hall is the main building on the elongated Town Hall Square, the core of the medieval imperial city and today’s Old Town. The former market square, around the Town Hall building, was the economic and social centre of the imperial city since the late Middle Ages. The stone building of the Town Hall was built in 1368 and originally served as a granary. For a long time, the Kempten town council did not have its own premises and its meetings took place in various shops and warehouses in the city. The first mention of the use of the granary as a Town Hall dates back to 1382 and from that year onwards it began to be used, at least in part, as a Town Hall for the city council, as well as a courthouse and a financial house. The most interesting thing is that the long-standing tradition of selling grain on the ground floor of the Town Hall ended only in 1906. The Town Hall was rebuilt many times and acquired its current appearance in the thirties of the twentieth century. The reception hall on the ground floor, known as the Schrannenhalle, is used for official functions. Its vaults are supported by ancient wooden columns, only one of which was replaced during renovations in the 1980s. The Great Assembly Hall has a late Gothic wooden ceiling dating back to around 1460. In the Small Assembly Hall, a wooden wall with plank overlays from the late Gothic period was discovered and restored. It contains inscriptions in Latin and German that are still useful advice to today’s municipal employees and are still relevant today: “Keep your hands off all favors. Listen patiently to your interlocutor. Answer kindly. Judge fairly.” And another inscription: “One man’s speech is another man’s speech. They all must be heard.” The elongated Town Hall has three floors and dramatic stepped gables on both sides. The central tower on the eastern side, resting on a stepped pediment, has a square console dome and a clock with a three-sided dial. On the dome of the tower stands a figure of the Trumpeter. At the base of the tower is a figure of Justice, which refers to the former court in the Town Hall. Under her is a clock with golden signs of the zodiac. Below on the facade is a painted imperial double-headed eagle, on both sides of which are depicted eight coats of arms of the patrician families of the city of Kempten. On the sides of the stepped pediment are smaller turrets with pointed roofs and double-headed eagles. Covered two-flight stairs with Gothic-style windows in the form of arches lead to the entrances to the Town Hall on both sides on the second floor . In the middle of the stairs are small balconies covered with roofs. By the way, the Town Hall has plenty of clocks. On the western gable there is a clock from the 1930s with a dial in the form of a sun with curved rays. The modern main entrance to the foyer of the Town Hall is on the ground floor in the center of the north side. But on the southern side of the Town Hall, on the facade, there is a fresco dedicated to a popular legendary character in Allgäu, the knight Heinrich von Kempten. The painting on the Town Hall depicts the heroic moment when, while taking a bath during the siege of the Italian city of Monte San Leone in 961, Heinrich saw the danger threatening Otto the Great. Without thinking, naked with a sword and shield, he rushed to the defense of the emperor and thus saved him, for which he received the monarch’s favor. As expected, the Town Hall Square near the Town Hall has its own fountain, the central fountain of the city, reflecting its peculiarity. In 1601 The wooden structure of the fountain was replaced by a stone basin, preserving its octagonal appearance. In the center, a bronze column was installed with a figure of a Roman commander holding two shields, with the coats of arms of two patrician burgomasters of that time. The figure of the commander testifies to the Roman heritage in the history of the city and to the respect for its roots. It is a monument to the fictitious Roman founder of Kempten, similar to the Augustus Fountain in Augsburg. The water in the fountain flows from the figures of dolphins and putti on the column. A protective openwork wrought iron grille is installed on the fountain bowl. The Church of St. Mang, Mang – the pronunciation of the name of St. Magnus in the Bavarian dialect, the Evangelical Lutheran parish church of Kempten, is the center, in the past, of the political, spiritual and cultural life of the free imperial city. It is dedicated to Saints Magnus of Füssen and Ulrich of Augsburg, whom I wrote about in previous stories. It was built in the Gothic style on the site of a 12th-century Romanesque church in a very short period of time from 1426 to 1429, including a sixty-six-meter bell tower. It was rebuilt several times in both the Rococo and Neo-Gothic styles. At the beginning of the 20th century, many elements of the previous reconstructions of the facade were removed, and the church acquired its current appearance. Since 1527, the church has been the center of the Reformation in the Kempten area. Like most Protestant churches, it is very restrained in its interior decoration. Its most famous object is the High Altar, made in 1893 and awarded at the World’s Fair in Chicago in 1893 and the Bavarian State Exhibition in Nuremberg in 1896. Since 1906, it has been installed in the church. The altar was designed by the Nuremberg architect Schmitz and executed by the Nuremberg sculptor Fritz Schimer and the Memmingen cabinetmaker Leonhard Vogt. Oak was used for the frame elements and linden for the figures and reliefs. The altar depicts scenes from the life of Jesus. The “new altar”, on the threshold of the choir, was designed by the Munich artist Werner Malli during the restoration of the church in 2007. Its three main elements – the altar, the lectern and the baptismal font – are made of ash, which harmonizes with the historical surroundings, the carved altar, the windows, the choir stalls and the 17th-century figure of the crucified Christ, mounted on a pillar stand. The stained glass windows of the church choir were created in 1866-1869 in the workshop of the Klaus brothers in Nuremberg. The medieval grisaille technique was also used in the creation of the stained glass windows. The stained glass windows were installed in the church in 1869. The beautiful carved pulpit dates back to 1608, and opposite it, the mayor’s place of honor, impressively decorated with stucco and two figures of angels, between which are two city coats of arms. An elegant, beautiful chandelier. The church organs are modern. The main organ is one of the largest in the Allgäu region. The instrument has 54 registers on four manuals and a pedal. Look at its beautiful, elegant console. An elegant choir organ, right behind the choir arch. There is also a small portable organ. So the church has a full range of organs. Of the five church bells, two are from the 14th century. In the eastern part of the northern nave of the church there is an unusual place, the “Corner of Silence.” Designed by the architect Werner Malli in 2007, it serves as a link between heaven and earth. The Romanesque Gothic brick tiles that make up the floor in front of the remains of the foundations of the 12th-century Gothic side altar are partly decorated with relief images of animals and leaves, including a unicorn. The “silent corner” is a place to stop, sit and reflect. When talking about the Church of St. Mang, it is impossible not to mention the famous people associated with it. From 1553 to 1561, the Slovenian reformer and Bible translator Primož Trubar served as pastor in the church. Trubar is considered the founder of Slovenian literature and the creator of the Slovenian written language, as well as the Protestant Church in Slovenia. In 1550, he published the first Slovenian books, the ABC and the Catechism. During his ministry in Kempten, he managed to unite all strata of the population of the imperial city under the Lutheran current of the Reformation. In 1922, a memorial plaque was erected on the old parish house as a reminder of his activities in Kempten, and in 2008, On the southern side of the church, a bronze bust of Trubar by Slovenian sculptor Mirsad Begič was installed. In the same Prihov house of the Church of St. Mang, where his father was a pastor, Carl von Linde, a German scientist, engineer and entrepreneur, spent his youth from 1849 to 1865. He discovered the refrigeration cycle, invented the first industrial processes for separating air and liquefying gases, which led to the creation of the first reliable and efficient refrigerator on compressed ammonia in 1876. Carl von Linde, the founder of Linde PLC – a transnational chemical corporation, the world’s largest, in terms of market share and revenue, supplier of industrial gases, including for medicine. In his memory, a memorial plaque was also installed on the house, and the Humanistic Gymnasium of Kempten, where he studied, was named in his honor. The Church of St. Mang also gave its name to the square near which it is located. Around it are houses that once belonged to patricians and wealthy residents of the city. The square also has several interesting objects of urban history. The underground chapel of Erasmus was a Catholic cemetery chapel built in the 13th century. The first floor of the chapel was dedicated to the Archangel Michael, and the basement, which was an ossuary, was dedicated to St. Erasmus. The first floor was demolished in the 19th century, its outline is now marked on the square with a copper tape. The surviving parts of the chapel of Erasmus underwent restoration and were opened to the public in 2010 and since then it has been considered a tourist attraction. The chapel presents a multimedia presentation telling the history of the sacred building and the city. I will say right away that the exhibition is not for everyone. The sculpture composition “Bell of Peace” in the square is interesting. The former bell of the St. Mang’s Church, installed on it in 1948 in the post-war period, and cast from metal, donated by the inhabitants of Kempten, which they collected during the difficult post-war years. To create this bell, in addition to household appliances, fragments of shells and bombs collected by residents were melted down. Despite the low quality of the materials and the corresponding sound, it has a high emotional value. Removed from the church during the restoration, it was installed on the square. The “Peace Bell” is now called to serve as a place of reflection for people of all cultures and a reminder of the horrors of war and the need to maintain peace throughout the world. And, of course, the most famous object of the square. Covered with a dome, the fountain of St. Mang. Created in 1905 by the outstanding German sculptor of the 20th century Georg Vrba in the Art Nouveau style, the fountain, with life-size bronze sculptures, is an artistic masterpiece. Saint Magnus of Füssen, depicted as the “Apostle of the Allgäu”, is a young man in a short robe, holding a crucifix in one hand and raising the other in a blessing gesture. The cross vault of the canopy, supported by four pillars above the sculpture of Magnus, is painted with thick curls with flowers, animals and four coats of arms: the German imperial coat of arms, Bavaria, Augsburg and Kempten. The pedestal on which the Saint stands is supported by satyrs, as symbols of nature, from which streams of water flow into the bowl of the fountain. Around the large fountain pool, in front of the pillars of the canopy, there are bronze sculptures of animals with riders. In addition to three real animals: a deer, a fallow deer and an ibex, there is also a mythical unicorn. The boys riding on the animals symbolize the four elements. One of them has human legs, the other three have bird claws, flippers and hooves, respectively. Under each animal, a mascaron is carved into the stone, from whose mouth a stream of water flows into a small pool. Interestingly, in order to find a suitable place for the fountain in the square, a wooden model on wheels was built, on a scale of one to one. It was moved around the church square until a suitable place was found that was the most advantageous and one that would provide enough space for fairs and other events. The fountain is beautiful both during the day and at night. Kempten has a large number of beautiful buildings, but one stands out among them. The Zumstein House. The Zumsteinhaus is a classical architectural monument built in 1802. After the restoration in 2019, it was returned to its original magnificent orchid-yellow facade. The Zumsteinhaus now houses the Kempten Museum, dedicated to the history and culture of Kempten and the Allgäu region. The museum is located next to the city park. Kempten is also home to several engineering structures of world significance. The King Ludwig Bridge across the Iller River, built in 1851, is one of the oldest wooden railway bridges in the world and the oldest bridge in Europe built using the Hou girder system, as well as the last surviving Hou girder bridge in Germany. The material used for its construction was larch and oak wood. Now it is used only for pedestrians and bicycles. In 2012, the Federal Chamber of Engineers of Germany recognized the bridge as a historical monument of world-class civil engineering . Next to the Ludwig Bridge are two unique engineering structures. The Upper Iller Bridges, two thirty-six-meter bridges located at an angle of 30° to each other, across the same Iller River. They were built by the Bavarian State Railways in 1904-1906 . These bridges are the largest unreinforced concrete bridges in the world. Today, the North Bridge has been converted into a road bridge, while trains still run on the South Bridge. Downstream on the Iller River is the “Kesselstrasse Hydroelectric Power Station”. The small run-of-the-river power station, built in 2010 according to the design of the architectural firm Becker Architekten from Kempten, is distinguished by its exceptional and original architectural style and integration into the urban environment. Its appearance can be described as a frozen wave, a glacier tongue, or a star-shaped river stone. Guided tours are regularly held at the power station. In 2011, the power station’s architecture was awarded the German Architecture Prize and the German Architecture Prize for Concrete. I will also note one more historical fact. It was in Kempten, at a match factory, that the world’s first commercial diesel engine with a capacity of 22 kW was installed in March 1898. That’s it. I’ll tell you a little about famous natives of Kempten. Well, the most famous of them, of course, is Claude Dornier. Franco-German aircraft designer and founder of the Dornier company. One of those who stood at the origins of modern all-metal aircraft construction. And he began his career in aviation in the Experimental Department of the airship building enterprise of Count Ferdinand von Zeppelin. Among Dornier’s famous projects, the twelve-engine Dornier X seaplane, which remained the largest and most powerful aircraft in the world for a decade . I wrote about him and his son Peter, a designer and entrepreneur, in the story about the city of Lindau. Ernst Walter Mayr, born in 1904, German-American biologist and a leading proponent of modern synthetic evolutionary theory. He is considered one of the most influential natural scientists of the 20th century. Mayr’s work had a significant impact on the development of the synthetic theory of evolution, which is a synthesis of genetics and the concepts of Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution. In 1953, he became a professor at Harvard University in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Kempten was the birthplace of several famous German athletes, including football players, racing drivers, and cyclists. Among them, Ilhan Mansız, a football player and all-rounder who comes from a Turkish-Crimean Tatar family, began his football career in Kempten. He then became a Turkish football champion with Beşiktaş and a bronze medalist at the 2002 FIFA World Cup with the Turkish national team. In the match for third place, Elkhan gave an assist to Hakan Şükür, who scored the fastest goal in the history of the World Championships at the eleventh second, and then scored two more goals himself, which brought victory to the Turkish team. After finishing his football career, he took up figure skating, and together with Slovak figure skater Olga Bestendigová in 2014 they became the first Turkish champions in pair figure skating. He is also a participant in various shows and has managed to star in seven films as an actor. Lisa Brennauer is one of the most successful German cyclists of the early 21st century. A seven-time world champion in road and track, she also became an Olympic champion in the team pursuit at the 2021 Tokyo Olympics . After completing her active sports career works as a coach of the German Cycling Federation. In 2022, she was awarded the highest award of the Free State of Bavaria – the Bavarian Order of Merit. And one more person of whom Kempten is rightfully proud and about whom I want to tell you. Reinhard Furrer, a German physicist and astronaut. Although he was born in Tyrol, after World War II, his family moved to Kempten. Here Furrer received his matriculation certificate at the Allgäu-Kempten Gymnasium, where Claude Dornier also studied. As a student at the Free University of Berlin, he participated in the evacuation of people from the Eastern sector of Berlin, including through tunnel number 57. According to the Berlin Wall Museum, he is the creator of the earthmoving machine used in the construction of the tunnel. On 30 October 1985, he launched aboard the Space Shuttle Challenger as a payload specialist on the D1 mission, together with Enst Messerschmid, becoming the third and fourth Germans to travel into space. Their time in orbit was 7 days 44 minutes. In 1987, he became a professor and director of the Institute of Space Technology at the Free University of Berlin. Furrer was an enthusiastic amateur pilot and made numerous flights in single-engine aircraft, including a flight over the Greenland ice sheet and a solo flight from Germany to the Ecuadorian capital Quito. He died tragically on 9 September 1995 in a plane crash during an air show at an airfield in Berlin. Furrer’s ashes were buried next to those of his parents in the Protestant cemetery in Kempten. I want to finish the story about this amazing man with his words: “I can’t imagine that someone, having the opportunity to leave the Earth and stick their head out into the world, would not spontaneously answer: “Yes!” This is Kempten, the capital of the Allgäu, and the people associated with it. If you liked it, put likes, subscribe to my channel, ask questions. I will be happy to answer them. Goodbye.

Один из древнейших городов Германии — Кемптен, столица региона Алльгой. Город с римскими корнями, некогда известный как Камбодунум, хранит в себе следы античного прошлого и богатое наследие готики, барокко и нового времени. Впечатляющий аббатский комплекс Кемптенского монастыря, археологический парк, базилики, церкви, фонтаны и уникальные сооружения. А также, рассказ о людях, которыми гордится не только Кемптен.
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