Riding the Camino – Bike touring Spain

Riding the Camino – Bike touring Spain

We had arrived at the southern tip of Spain via ferry from Morocco and were looking forward to the journey north to France. This would be our 35th country of our ride around the world from the UK to the UK. And as we made our way towards Seville, it began with blue skies and wild camping, [Music] passing through small towns for coffee and pastries each morning. And thanks to beautiful roads and courteous drivers, we thought that this leg of our trip would be a breeze. Little did we know what was in store for us over the coming weeks. [Music] So, here we are in the Spanish countryside just a couple of days into our ride from the uh ferry where we got off in Tarifa up to the border with France, which will take us a few weeks. Nice countryside riding at the moment. The weather is good and we’re making our way towards Seville where we’re going to join up to the Camino to Santiago. So, that should be interesting. Let’s go. As we reached Seville, the weather turned and rain set in that would follow us for the next few weeks. And not just any rain, the type of rain that makes you feel wet to your bones and thankful for raincoats. It really put our wet weather gear to the test and made what was looking like an easy ride north into a battle against nature. But the positive was that we were now following the chamino, which meant a shower and warm bed in a refuge at the end of each day and the company of our fellow pilgrims. Thank you. [Music] We were riding the Vadella Plattera or the Silverway, which is one of the longest pilgrimage routes to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella. [Music] For over a thousand years, pilgrims from around the world have followed these paths, seeking spiritual renewal, adventure, or simply the experience of the journey, which was something we could relate to, to say the least. [Music] Along the Camino about every 15 to 25 km, there are towns with alberes which are host for only those taking on the Camino pilgrimage. Some of these cost around $20 per night. Some are donationbased and all are a welcome sight at the end of a wet day’s riding or walking. Even when you’re sharing a room with 10 snoring old men. [Music] Each year, more than 400,000 people complete the combined comminos, carrying along their pilgrims passport, which is stamped at each stop along the way. And at journeys end, they receive the compostella, a certificate marking their pilgrimage. [Music] There are eight main routes leading to Santiago from all corners of Spain, France, and Portugal. But because of its length and tougher walking conditions, the Vadella Plata is less crowded than other routes, offering long stretches of solitude and wide open landscapes. And this makes it a popular option for bike packers like us who want to take part in the pilgrimage. [Music] [Music] So, we’ve had a lot of rain and uh cold the last few days on the Camino, but at least the trail has been really nice. It’s like a bike path rail trail at the moment, and we’ve got some snowcap mountains up ahead of us, and it’s going to get down to about – 5 tonight, but we’re really enjoying it. At least the sun’s come out sort of today. So, it’s a little bit less cold than yesterday, which was dribbly and miserable, but we’re getting through it and enjoying it. [Music] Stretching nearly 1,000 km, the silver route begins in Seville and winds north through Marida, Caseres, Salamanca, and Zamora before joining up with the Camino Frances. The route follows the old Roman road that once linked the south to the north of Spain, and along the way would pass through ancient amphitheaters, aqueducts, and historic cities rich in Moorish and medieval heritage. Just leaving Salamanca this morning on our way to Zamora. And I don’t know if the camera’s picking it up, but it is snowing. It’s getting a bit silly now. It’s uh less snow, more sleet, and a bit of mud. And then due to the freezing conditions, we thought we’d try take a shortcut, which ended up leading us into even more mud as the snow began to fall harder. This was a bad choice. This was our first time riding in snow, and it turned out it’s not the fun-filled winter activity you would imagine, especially when you don’t own any shoes. We were on the road early the next day due to another early morning snoring orchestra. And we’re doing whatever we could to keep warm, including wearing every pair of socks we owned. [Music] Thankfully, the weather had eased up on us a bit today, and while it was still freezing cold, there were blue skies, and as always, somewhere to take a break in town for a good coffee. [Music] But of course, the blue skies didn’t last long. Pretty cold and wet today. We are off the uh Via Dela Plata Camino and making our way up to the Frances Camino. So, we’re sort of on some different trails. Uh right by canal at the moment. Cold and wet. Not loving it. [Music] We were now done with our time on the silver route and were ready to join the Camino Francis. But this time we’d be going in the wrong direction as we were headed towards France. We thought that all this bad weather might have meant less people than usual walking the chamino, but we thought wrong. [Music] Dressed in their ponchos, we passed countless pilgrims each day fighting against the elements to get to their next alber. And on this path, you’re not sharing a room with 8 to 10 people, but often upwards of 20. [Music] The Camino Frances or the French way is the original and most popular route of the Camino to Santiago. Stretching nearly 800 km from St. John Peterport in France to the Cathedral of Santiago to Compastella in Spain. The trail winds over the Pyrenees, across the fertile vineyards of Larioa, the wide plains of Castillia and Leyon, and through the lush green hills of Galissia. Along the way, pilgrims pass Roman bridges, medieval monasteries, Gothic cathedrals, and countless villages where local hospitality is a large part of the experience. [Music] Today it remains a UNESCO World Heritage site combining history, culture, and tradition. [Music] But the Camino is much more than history and landscape. It’s a living community. Pilgrims from all walks of life share meals, stories, and moments of quiet reflection on the road. And for many, the arrival in Santiago, standing before the magnificent cathedral, is both an ending and a beginning. [Music] For us, after such a long and solitary journey around the world, we were glad to be part of a community for a while, to share stories, muddy paths, and noisy but cozy dorm rooms. I don’t think the Camino life is the life for us, much preferring the unbeaten trail at nights in our tent. But I can see why it entices so many to walk its path. On our final days riding through Spain, we picked up the pace a bit and started to cover a little more ground each day. We always had the option of getting off the chamino and taking the road, which would have been a lot faster and easier, but thought we’d stick it out. Maybe due to a feeling of owing something to the chamino, or maybe because we love to torture ourselves. We had a feeling that once we’d crossed the Pyrenees, our luck might change. And as well as delicious French food, we might be in store for some much better weather. Spain saw more rain in the month that we were there than it usually sees in an entire year. This caused mass flooding and evacuations throughout the country, as well as some cold, wet, and disgruntled bike packers. You having fun on the commamino? No. More rain, more mud, more chamino. But the chamino did have one treat in store for us as we made our way towards the town of Aayagi, where the famous Iraqi wine fountain is located. This winery is carrying on the ancient tradition of the monks of the Arachi monastery who have been providing hospitality to pilgrims for hundreds of years by inviting all who travel the trail to enjoy a glass or two of free wine. Here we are at the famous Camino wine tap. A shorefire way to put a smile on a cold pilgrim’s face. Our journey through Spain probably hadn’t been what we’d hoped for weatherwise, but it certainly had been memorable. We were glad to have had the Camino experience and enjoyed the hospitality and sense of community that it offered as well as somewhere to dry off at the end of each day rather than climbing into a wet tent. [Music] The hospitality of the Spanish people and the volunteers who work in the Alber made up for our cold, wet feet and make the Camino community what it is. And on the stretches of road riding we did do in Spain, we were so impressed with the courtesy of the drivers towards us cyclists, always going out of their way to make sure we had more than enough space. In all 35 countries we’ve ridden through. I think it was here that we felt the most safe on the road. Final day in Spain today as we climb out of Pamplona over the Pyrenees. It’s been a lot of rain while we’ve been here. So, not the weather we’ve hoped for, but the trails have been good fun. We’ve enjoyed being on the Camino, and we’re looking forward to France. If you’ve enjoyed this video, please like and subscribe to this channel and feel free to leave us any questions in the comments. Have a look back at where we’ve been before and where we end up next. And find us on Instagram at Weide Bikesplaces.

In this video we ride through Spain from south to north, along the famous Camino de Santiagos. We faced some pretty horrible weather on this leg of our trip around the world, and enjoyed the warmth and hospitality that the camino’s alberges offered to us. We began our route by riding the Via del la Plata, and then joined into the Camino Frances as we made our way towards the Pyrenees and into France.
Here’s a link to the route we took on E we got off the ferry in Morrocco, all the way back to the UK:
https://www.komoot.com/tour/2290638083?ref=aso