De Kas (*) – Amsterdam

The first thing I want to say about this meal is that I really enjoyed it.

I had read so many conflicting opinions going in that I wasn’t sure what to expect, but very quickly into the meal, that doubt disappeared. Every single dish delighted my palate and put a smile on my face.

Looking at photos of De Kas, you can see that it’s set inside a greenhouse in a large park, but it’s hard to fully understand from pictures just how beautiful and comfortable the space feels. There’s an openness to it, with natural sunlight pouring in, that really shapes the experience.

As I sat down, they explained the format: three, four, or five courses, with the option to decide on cheese and dessert after the first three. I decided pretty early on that I was going to go all the way through.

They started with some non-alcoholic options. I had an orange and lemon verbena sparkling lemonade that was very well balanced and refreshing.

The first snacks were tapioca and cassava crisps with a celery dip. The dip was incredibly smooth, tasting purely of celery with a nice acidic lift. Simple, but very well executed.

I also opted for an add-on: an oyster topped with steak tartare. Very fresh, clean, and well prepared.

This came alongside the amuse-bouche: a pani puri filled with potato and piccalilli, and a shiso leaf with cabbage and tahini. Both were bright and woke up the palate in a really nice way. The final amuse was a chilled red cabbage gazpacho with cumin, which added a bit more depth and warmth.

Before the courses began, they brought out locally baked bread with whipped porcini butter. Rich, savory, and hard to stop eating. At this point, I realized I was fully on board with where the meal was going.

The first proper course was smoked beetroot with oyster leaf and jalapeño sauce. Very well balanced, with the sweetness of the beetroot and a gentle heat tying everything together.

Next was a take on mushroom toast: morels on brioche with endive, tarragon, and a chicken gravy. One thing that stands out here is that meat really takes a back seat. The vegetables are clearly the focus, many of them grown on-site or nearby. I didn’t miss the presence of a larger protein at all, but the chicken gravy added a nice depth and brought everything together.

The asparagus course (white asparagus with wild garlic, curry hollandaise, peas, and a peanut sauce) was one of the more layered dishes. There’s a lot going on, but it came together in a way that still felt cohesive.

At that point, continuing was an easy decision.

The cheese course was a composed dish: blue cheese ice cream with peas, green apple, and croutons. A little unexpected, slightly funky, but ultimately very enjoyable.

Dessert was a choux pastry with honey and marigold ice cream, finished with a rhubarb vinaigrette (which I neglected to get a photo of!). I expected something sharper, but it was more balanced than anticipated.

Instead of mignardises, they finished with a mandarin sorbet that captured both the sweetness and slight bitterness of the fruit.

I left in a really good mood, helped in part by the unseasonably sunny weather, but mostly because the meal itself was just consistently well executed. The staff were warm and welcoming, and the pacing matched my rhythm well.

I would gladly return for another lunch or dinner if I’m back in Amsterdam.

As a bit of a bonus, the last photo is dinner that same night at Restaurant Blauw.

I went in planning to order a single dish, since rijsttafel is usually for two, but they offered to serve it for one. I figured I might not get that opportunity again, so I went for it.

I chose the seafood option with cod, mussels, mackerel, and prawns, and it ended up being a really fun and satisfying meal. We don’t really have anything quite like this where I’m from, so getting to experience a full rijsttafel solo felt like a bit of a treat.

Was it the most refined cooking? No. Was it delicious? Yes. Was it fun? Absolutely.

All in all, a very good dining day.