In 2019 I visited Central for the first time, and, at the time, placed it in my favourite meals of all time, alongside peak Tickets and peak Eleven Madison Park, the unrivalled hospitality of Den and the time that Gaggan Anand locked us into his flagship restaurant on New Year’s Eve and fed and watered us until 4am. Now Lima is far, so I figured if I am going back all that way I should go back again. It confirmed one thing for me – this is potentially the best restaurant in the world.
For anyone unfamiliar, Central is the brainchild of Virgilio Martinez. There is an episode of Chef’s Table on Netflix around Virgilio and Central, which I recommend watching as it is one of the compelling and interesting hours of food television you can find. Virgilio is obsessed with exploring and showcasing the biodiversity of Peru and the menu explores this by moving through various altitudes of the country.
From the moment you arrive you’re treated like royalty – there’s a welcome drink in the beautiful gardens and the tables are humongous. Everyone serving is professional but warm and I was even lucky (imo) enough to have Virgilio come over and chat to me for a while and serve me a course.
So what of the food? Well first of all, it looks like an art installation. The use of seaweeds and algae allows playfulness through colour, and the use of textures and experimental techniques runs through everything. It is also, most importantly, delicious. It would be impossible to name all the food I ate as I don’t know if I’ve ever eaten so much food in my life, but some highlights would definitely be a scallop dish with vongole and sea urchin; a corn and kiwicha dish with about ten textures going on and the deepest corn flavour I’ve ever tasted; sliced and cured duck served alongside a play on a chicarron taco; and a dish of octopus where the skin was peeled to make an initial dish and the served with a super cold dish loaded with crunch. At the end, you’re taken upstairs to a cacao factory and shown the incredible work they’re doing with cacao – this includes being served circa 15 small cacao desserts.
This is a truly incredible experience and one I’m so happy I went back for. People talk about the best restaurants in the world all the time, and places like Central can be so polarising. I can imagine many would hate it, and some would lament style over substance, but I can’t say that’s my take from it. I think it’s an incredible place with an incredible story, and I cannot wait to experience Kjolle tonight on the back of it.
Instagram: boothonfood
by NoYear619
3 Comments
Agreed, I went three years ago and it’s one of the meals I still think about today.
Curious to hear your take on Kjolle and if you visited any other spots Peru. I have reservations for Virgilio’s other restaurant – Mil, and will probably do 2-3 in Lima. Trying to figure out if Central is worth doing over other spots if I’m already doing Mil.
Disagree. Ate there almost 2 years ago and it was terrible. Almost walked out. The theme was super cool but every dish was very similar. So much pickling, fermentation. Everything was eaten with a spoon. Was looking forward to the course that serves the largest fish from the amazon thinking I would get something to chew….. nope. A bowl and a spoon again. Service was slow. Wine list was meh. Restaurant filled with influencers with lots of lights and cameras. So many other places in Lima that were better. Had a better dinner at the bar at the Belmond Miraflores and a sushi place (need to find the name) but former chef at Maido I believe. I was so excited to eat there and was so disappointed.