Wagyu Lab K (Hiroshima, Tabelog Bronze)

When I dined at Chisou Soutakuitto a couple years ago, Hirano-san mentioned that his son is also in the restaurant business, running his own yakiniku joint.

Last September, I visited Wagyu Lab K (Tabelog 4.28), tucked away in a residential suburb of Hiroshima. The chef, Hirano Jr., is young and dashing, sporting J-pop idol looks.

The restaurant solely uses Hiroshima Sakakiyama beef from Kumano Town, which is known to have the lowest fat-melting point among all Japanese wagyu. To balance the rich, intense flavour and prevent the fat from being overwhelming, Hirano deliberately sources mature cows raised slightly longer than the typical wagyu cattle lifecycle.

Highlights during my meal included yubiki senmai (cow 3rd stomach), a clean tasting blanched tripe teamed with a fruity miso sauce,; scrumptious steak sandwich using chateubriand lathered with a savoury Japanese aurora sauce; and a decadent, heat kissed zabuton.

Compared to the likes of Yoroniku and Jambo, Lab K leans into beefier, less silky cuts, providing a myriad of textural and flavor contrast. A key differentiator is that rice is served alongside the very first cut of meat. The Sado Island Koshihikari rice helped to cut through the rich, heavy fats and was addictive. A local sitting next to me kept asking for rice refills and easily polished off six bowls.

The restaurant features two crescent-shaped counters, each seating six diners and equipped with two gas grills. Chef Hirano Jr. handles all the meat cutting and grilling himself, fluidly moving between the counters throughout the evening. Floor staff includes a Japanese-speaking Indian chap to support non-Japanese speakers.

At just 11,000 yen, the course offers excellent CP. Remarkably, the price has remained unchanged since its launch in 2022, earning it a dedicated following among local foodies.

Meat Lovers Course (Sep 2026):

1. Kurimi: kombu-cured sashimi of beef shoulder.

2. Yubiki Senmai: blanched omasum with refreshing miso sauce made of vinegar, apple and garlic.

3. Karubi: marbled short rib.

4. Tan: paper thin-sliced tongue, grilled one side, with salt

5. Tan: thicker-sliced tongue, grilled both sides with wasabi and yuzu kosho.

6. Harami: outside skirt

7. Zabuton: richly marbled chuck flap, bursting with flavor.

8. Saroin: buttery sirloin with grated daikon

9. Ichibo: rump cap, firm texture

10. Chatoburian Suteki Sando: tender cut of chateubriand (tenderloin) with Japanese mayo ketchup sauce.

11. Yaki Reba: freshly grilled liver

12. Gokuatsu Tan: a fatty cut of tongue sliced thick.

13. Suji Nikomi Karei: beef tendon curry

14. Bone broth

15. Budo: Muscat grapes from Hiroshima